I am about to purchase a set of HAMANN Unique Forged Anodized wheels for my Macan Turbo. They recommend 22x10.5 for all four with 295/30/22 tires and 20mm front spacers and 35mm rear spacers. I currently have the 21" Turbo Design wheels that are staggered. Does anyone think they are making a bad recommendation by going with 10.5" rims and 295 tires all the way around?

 

I am about to purchase a set of HAMANN Unique Forged Anodized wheels for my Macan Turbo. They recommend 22x10.5 for all four with 295/30/22 tires and 20mm front spacers and 35mm rear spacers. I currently have the 21" Turbo Design wheels that are staggered. Does anyone think they are making a bad recommendation by going with 10.5" rims and 295 tires all the way around?

Nice looking wheels. Personally, I would not select 22" rims. The ride will be harsher, and the cornering performance lower. Plus, new tires will be more expensive, unless you're already close to needing a new set. Consider 21" and keeping the staggered set-up. Just my two cents.

 

for 22 * 10.5 setup.

Front: 305/30/22 offset 6
Rear: 305/30/22 offset 14

You will need to find out the wheel's offset first and then try to match to the closest offset as indicated with or without spacers.

For me, the front with such size and weight may result steering issues. The added weight of the tires + thicker spacers may also cause your suspension to have lot of stress as well.

proceed with caution

For me, I would not go that wide for the front at all

 

@VALE46, I would steer clear of such bad advice from that shop. They are just trying to sell you their product. IMO - nothing bigger than 21", definitely stagger set-up, no spacers, no hub rings, and perfect fit. You already got a nice set of OEM 21" so if you upgrade, the next set needs to be as good if not better, and not only for looks. These wheels sound like they were made for other cars.

 

99% of aftermarket stuff is shitty (worse quality than OEM) and/or not fitting right as OEM, especially for premier cars like Porsche. Not commenting on Hondas here.

 

They certainly look good but I am quite sure that large, wide and low profile tires on font and rear would disrupt the the stability and handling of the Macan. Not to mention what the spacers may do or not do in terms of safety. Then again, I am not big on after market anything that could hamper performance, safety or any warranties . I would pass. You already have very nice Porsche wheels.

 

I appreciate the responses from everyone. I agree that going with aftermarket wheels that require spacers is not the way to go. Instead, I've decided to go the custom route with aftermarket wheels that are built to order so they have an exact fit (no spacers). I'm going with the monopiece forged c883 from CEC in 22" diameter (very lightweight) in matte black with machined face, 9.5" wide front and 10.5" wide rear with 265/35/22 Pirelli Scorpion Zero Assimetrico in the front and 295/30/22 in the rear. These wheels will accept the TPMS and machined to accept the factor Porsche Logo center cap. I'll post photos after installation. The wheels take around 5 weeks to make.

 

The 882's looks pretty good on the cayenne. How much do they weigh?

 

I did a search but I couldn't really get an easy answer. And please forgive me if the answer is already in the sticky thread, I just don't have the time right now to sift through 30 odd pages of posts.

I need to purchase aftermarket wheels, preferably 19 inch. Preferably flow form, or even fully forged if budget allows. I need to purchase wheels that are hubcentric only.

Are there many options that are truly hubcentric? I know some manufacturers advertise hubcentric, but what they mean is that its hubcentric with a spacer. I do not want to use a spacer.

Thanks in advance!!

 

Try Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels I've always gotten good answers there.

 

Here is a link to a list of better quality aftermarket rim brands (see second post). Alternatively, you can scan through the pages of the aftermarket rim sticky and look for pictures of rims you like; and then examine their specs more closely. Hopefully some other folks with direct experience will chime-in here with some advice. Best of luck.

http://www.macanforum.com/forum/modifications/37449-aftermarket-rims-advice.html

 

Nice link. IMO, if you don't mind spending extra $, HRE gets my vote.

 

I have 20" HRE Flowform FF15s. I love them. Check out the HRE instagram page for pictures. They posted some of my car about a week or two ago.
I paid 2700 for the wheels, 1200 for tires, 200 for for 22mm spacers on the rear axle (required), 400 for Tpms, and 200 for install at my dealer. I bought the wheels from Vivid racing. They were able to overnight them when everyone else said it'd take a week or 2 to get them. If you're interested I highly recommend Ahmed at vivid. Email him directly and he should give you a few hundred off.

 

Did you need the spacer to correct the offset?

 

Get Porsche approved N0 tires. Michelin is preferred and probably the best.

Don't skimp on tires for a performance car like the Macan.

 

Actually don't skimp on tires for any car .


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New wheels coming for my S

I'm about to pull the trigger on some new wheels. I need to get things set up so I can take my Macan to the track this summer. After MUCH soul searching I've decided to use my stock RS Spyders as track wheels and mount P-Zeros on them and mount my stock Pirelli All-Seasons on the new wheels. I know that black wheels are all the rage right now but I simply can't do it. I've rendered a couple on my car and it's just not for me. I really like the shine of the machined surface on the RS Spyders when they are clean, but the gray inside is not my favorite (IMO the Black Spyders on the GTS with a machined face would be perfect). So I finally found a wheel that I like aesthetically, comes in custom offsets at no additional cost, is easier to clean, and is offered in sizes that are compatible with the stock tires and fitment. I've decided to go with Savini BM7s, gloss black interior with machined surface. The fronts are 20x8.5 and the rears match stock at 20x10. The rears will have the stock 19mm offset. On the front, the wheels are 13mm narrower than stock so I decided to go with a 20mm offset there (the stock wheels have a 26mm offset). That will put the rim of the wheel at the same point in space as the stock wheel but the tire will stick out 6mm more. Here's a photoshop I did of the wheels on my car to get a feel for the look. My side blades have since been replaced with gloss black. Now I have to figure out what to do for center caps.
If you are ever looking for a really good wheel calculator, go here)

 

My rims

My rims

 

My rims

Looks great, what kind of wheels and is your car lowered?

 

MarkinMD they look great !


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First time post! I have an S with the 21" turbo wheels. I love the way they look but need to move to all seasons. I live in Seattle and head to the mountains frequently. I'd prefer to have one set of rims / tires to use all year round vs switching twice a year. The weather is pretty mild in Seattle so winters would definitely be overkill for in town and commuting to work. I got by with this strategy with my X5. I'm currently looking at the Vossen VFS1s or VFS2s in 20" (the largest tire size I can get all seasons in). What rim size would you guys recommend? I'm not a subject matter expert on this topic other than that I can tell a properly fitting / looking rim from one that doesn't. Classy, stock looking Aesthetics mean everything to me. Advice and info would be very much appreciated. Thank you!

 

The OEM 20" wheels are 20x10 rear and 20x9 front. The biggest issue you may have with the Vossens is getting the right offsets. Use the tool I linked to above to find out how the particular wheel offsets you are looking at will affect the fit. If you need spacers just realize that you will also need different lug bolts as well. The offsets of the OEM wheels (both 20 and 21 inch) are 19 rear and 26 front. If you want the new wheels to fill the wheel wells like your Turbo wheels but not stick out further then you need to keep the same offsets. The offsets are in mm so whatever the difference is in offset will be the difference in where the wheel fits horizontally (i.e. in and out of the wheel well).

 

Thanks MarkInMd - much appreciated. I'm looking at the calculator you provided. How does one work spacers into the equation? I called Vossen and they recommended 20x9 front and 20x10.5 rear (with 15mm spacers) because they don't have the correct bolt pattern in 20x10. However, the 20x9s are flat, and anything over 20x10 is concave. Unless I'm missing something, that would be a deal breaker - think two flat rims up front and two concave rims in back would look pretty bad.

 

Posting again - not sure what happened to my previous post...

Thanks MarkInMd - Much appreciated. And thanks for the calculator - I also checked it out. How does one add spacers to the calculations? I wound up calling Vossen and they advised that their 20x10 doesn't have the correct bolt patter, so I'd have to go 20x9 up front and 20x10.5 in the rear with a 15mm spacer. Also, he informed me that the 20x9s are 'flat' anything over 20x10 is concave. So, if I went with the Vossen's, I'd have two flat rims up front and two concave rims in the rear. I think that's an aesthetic deal breaker for me as I'd like all four to have the 'flat' look.

 

What are the offsets they are telling you for the different sized wheels? Most people like a "concave" look to the rims because it makes them look wider, but it is a purely aesthetic choice. I'm not sure it would be a deal breaker for me. Not having the bolt pattern in a 10" wheel is, however, very odd when they have it in other width wheels of that diameter. That probably would be deal breaker for me. This is why: most of the time with a spacer 15mm (a little less than 5/8") and below you would get longer lug bolts that would go through the spacer and into the hub. However, if you are having to change bolt pattern pacing then that means that you will have a custom spacer bolted to the hub with the normal pattern and then lug bolts from the wheel into the spacer. However, the lug bolt into the spacer will only have a max of 15mm of thread engagement because then they'll hit the hub. So they will have to give you special short lug bolts that will probably be a few mm shorter than 15mm because the last thing you want is to be torqueing down the lug bolts thinking that they are tight when in fact they are just hitting the hub and the wheel is actually loose.
Ok, so for offsets: the offset is zero when the face of the wheel that mounts on the hub is directly centered within the wheel. Offset refers to the displacement of that hub from the centerline of the wheel. A positive offset moves the wheel IN and a negative offset moves the wheel OUT. You will almost never see a negative offset, but FWD cars use higher offsets typically than RWD cars and AWD cars tend to be somewhere in the middle depending on what front/rear bias their particular system has. On the Macan the front wheels have 26mm of offset for a 9" wide wheel referred to as ET26. The rears have a 19mm offset (or ET19). So, when you go to the wheel calculator, put the stock wheel and tire specifications in the left column and your new wheel's specifications in the right column. If you are adding a spacer then you would just add the thickness of the spacer to the stock offset number. After you have everything entered you go to the very bottom of the page and it will tell you how much different you proposed setup will be - if the tire will be farther in or out than the stock setup.
So, the reason that most people like the "concave" look on a wheel is because you really can't get it with FWD cars because the wheel has to have a high offset which means that it will have a relatively flat face. Whereas RWD cars - use wheels with low offsets so that means that the wheel designer has more depth to work with in designing the wheel - wheel width helps this even more.
Some higher end wheel makers - and now even some mid-range wheel makers will mill to wheel to match whatever offset you need. That way you never have to use a spacer. That was a big reason I chose the company I did.

 

Unfortunately, I didn't ask the offsets - I had a hard time getting past the fact that I couldn't get a matching staggered set. I do agree that the VFS-2s look better concave, but I don't like the concave version of the VFS-1. Regardless, it seems I'm out of luck with that brand. I'll take a look at Savini as you recommended a few posts ago. Thanks for the extra info on the calculator and the diagram - extremely helpful. I'll report back on my progress.

 

I'm back with updates! I've narrowed things down to two options. 1) Savini BM 13 in brushed or double dark tint. I'd do exactly what MarkInMD is doing with his setup - 20x8.5 with 20mm offset for front and go with the 20x10 rear. 2) Niche Citrine M161 in brushed. Front options are 20x8.5 with a 25mm offset for front, and for front a 20x10 with 40mm or 50 mm offset options are available. Running this configuration through MarkInMD's calculator everything seems ok except for suspension - "Tire is 21 mm closer to suspension/brakes components. Rim is 21 mm closer to suspension/brakes components. Make sure that you have enough room for that. If not, consider lower offset, narrower tires or using spacers". Would a spacer be required in this setup and if so, would it be advised or is this a bad wheel for this setup? A 20x10.5 with 27mm offset is also available which when run on the calculator results in "Tire is 8 mm closer to suspension/brakes components. Rim is 14 mm closer to suspension/brakes components. Acceptable for most cars" I'm assuming this is the optimal choice? Any thoughts on whether this is pushing it? Also, any thoughts on one brand of wheels over the other. I'm driven purely by aesthetics and know nothing of either company. Thanks! Attaching tire configurator images of the two wheels on a Macan.

 

You might want to also check with the company and see if your front wheel options will clear the calipers. Some wheel designs at different offsets won't clear those big calipers.

 

Had a hard time attaching images. Maybe I don't have permission? Regardless, I pasted links in the post above. They show as broken right now, but they work if you right click and open in a new tab.

 

I am curious about offers like this...


21" Porsche Macan s Turbo Style Wheels Rims 5x112 Staggered Gunmetal Machine | eBay


There are dozens more like this.


These look almost identical to existing Porsche wheels but are a fraction of the price.






I know that there's the old adage you get what you pay for, but I don't really know wheels well enough to know if paying $7k for a set of Porsche OEM 21" wheels really gets you anything more than these aftermarket look-alikes aside from the Porsche profit margin.


Thoughts?

 

The OEM 21" wheels are forged, whereas the non OEM are most certainly cast. Even among cast wheels, there are many different quality grades. There can be a very big difference in weight and strength of the wheel depending on quality of the cast wheel and forged wheels.

Forged wheels are stronger and lighter.

Not to say that Cast wheels are bad, but it becomes important to look at the certifications, and quality of them, especially when putting them on a high performance car.

The 20" and smaller OEM wheels on the Macan are cast I believe, but obviously of top quality.
I could be mistaken on that, if anybody knows otherwise, please correct me.

No doubt there is a Porsche profit margin involved, but Forged wheels are certainly more expensive in general

 

Thanks @nischair. I'll have to look up the difference between forged and cast.


I think the biggest mistake I made in my order was not ordering 21" rims. I stuck with the stock 19, which I guess are cast according to your email. When I looked at them, they were expensive ($3k more) and I figured I could always add them later... but I didn't realize that was actually a bargain because they're $7k bought after. This was a huge research mistake on my part. The 21s look much better, but I am the kind of guy that likes to take speed bumps (and there are MANY in my neighborhood and around my office) without slowing down. I just figure that's why I buy an SUV with air suspension (my current drive is a V8 Touareg with air). Plus, living in the Seattle area, I head to the mountains a lot in the winter (weekends) but my winter commute is mostly 48* F and rainy. So it felt right. But as I head into summer I'm lusting after big wheels with summer tires.


With taxes, property tax, my 13 yo son's braces (one lump sum up front) and my Macan being port-released and on its way, $7k seems steep.

So if I could evaluate a good-looking cheaper alternative that has the appeal of the Porsche wheels at a much lower cost and the same weight, I'd be very, very interested.


Here's the challenge, I hate the look of most aftermarket wheels!! Hate them! Hate them when I see them on a car. See them as a waste of money. So when I went looking for some used 21" wheels on ebay and found a ton of clones that look just like the RS Spyder wheels for as little as 1/7th the price, I became pretty interested in learning how to evaluate them. Are they the same weight? Strength? Right size/offset/etc? Are they dangerous? Or nearly as good for a fraction of the price because they lack the Porsche crest

 

No doubt, 7K is a big hit for wheels, although if you haven't inquired, sometimes dealers will let you do a swap prior to delivery off another car on the lot, or some take off wheels that they may have on hand. I did not realize that you had not taken delivery yet. They may be able to give you a good amount of credit on your new take offs in the process.

I know that I had some indecision between the 21" black sport classics and the 21" Platinum sport classics (black cost more than the Platinum) and he told me that he would recommend that I spec the black ones which are rare on lot cars and that at the time of delivery he could swap out if I wanted, to the platinums which he always has on hand on other cars or take offs and would give me the full credit for the difference. My car is being built now for an early june delivery.

Maybe you could negotiate something to this effect? The best time to do this is prior to delivery, before any miles get on the wheels so that their value in putting them onto another lot car remains intact.

good luck with the wheels and the braces!!

 

They won't be nearly as good as OEM wheels.

If you don't want to pay for the OEM wheeks, Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels has good wheels (e.g., OZ) at reasonable prices. I wouldn't buy ebay wheels.