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Replacing & Registering the Battery

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437K views 1.7K replies 210 participants last post by  SouthJerseyRider  
#1 ·
Hopefully I will not need to do this for 3-4 years but I’m curious. Manual p. 314 says only have done by Porsche dealer & you cannot tell what type of (aftermarket) battery will replace the genuine Porsche battery by the markings on the battery. WTF?!

I like Interstate brand. Often better quality than OEM but, that is for lead acid, not sure for AGM.

So, has anyone here had to replace their battery & did you have Porsche do it & what did it cost you?

I finally took a look at my battery which is under the trunk floor in front of the Bose SubW (After lift the cargo floor, must lift carpet & then lift another cover to view & if need to access/change it--would need to remove collapsible spare tire!)

I see mine is 92Ah.

I searched & found Gaudin Porsche offers two; a 92Ah & a more powerful 105 Ah.


958-611-105-21
BATTERY 105 AMP HOUR MSRP $543.76, online price $351.05
Replaces:958-611-105-20

958-611-092-21
BATTERY 92 AMP HOUR MSRP $439.44, online price $283.70
Replaces: 7PP-915-105, 955-611-085-00, 955-611-092-00, 958-611-092-20

So, if you wanted the same battery you have now you’d get the 92Ah for $283.70.
My guess is that to have Porsche replace it for you you’d pay MSRP $439.44 + ½ hr. Labor! ~$500 to replace a @#$!!** battery?!

For Lead Acid batteries, you just need the dimensions to fit the space & the correct Ah & then it is reliability, price, warranty & specs such as CCA. How can it be that much different for AGM types? If, for example, Interstate made one to fit Macan that was the same size with more Ah for ~ $150 it would be tempting. For now, until I learn that aftermarket brands are available & work well, I’d probably upgrade to the genuine Porsche 105 AH & DIY.
 
#511 ·
I think the Macan computer does need to know; new battery, AGM type, Ah capacity.
If you can program that, for example with Autel MD808 Pro, I think you will not have shorter battery life or ruin your alternator. I doubt the serial # is important unless you cannot proceed w/o entering something that the tool accepts & allows you to finish the registration/programming.
alessia3 detailed these steps with photos:
He said in post #445:
"Apart from capacity (Ah) and technology, I dont't think a battery charger needs more input.
Autel (i.e. the car) asks for these serial and part numbers (autel dont' ask for battery brand), but you can type whatsoever in these fields, the result is always "OK" (as you see from my screenshots).
Instead, I think these information are stored in memory for Porsche after sale services ("Porsche approved" program and similar)."

My plan is to use a replacement AGM battery with the same Ah capacity & a 4 year 100% replacement warranty (Bosch which I detailed elsewhere on MF)
 
#514 ·
I will have a good idea in a few years since I have AGM batteries in 2 Porsche & I changed my old flooded battery to an AGM in my 20 year old Jaguar which is not S/S & doesn't have close to the computer draw of my newer Porsches.

The oldest Macan's are how old now? 5 years?
I wonder how many MF members still have their MY2015 & the original battery & if they do, how many & what type of miles do they drive?

My guesses the ones who put on a lot of miles & long drives, not stop & go, can have their AGM batteries last many years... 6 or 7 maybe. But, I'm guessing.
 
#515 ·
My 2015 S is 5 years old next week and has just over 38k miles. It is a garage queen, only driven on weekends. But I made sure to drive it on the freeway for at least 15-20 mins, so no short trips.

Since day one S/S has been permanently disabled. I drive in Sport mode 90% of the time anyway. The battery seems to be still strong as car always starts on first crank.

It should at least last a few more years.
 
#518 ·
Car manufactures would love it every single maintenance procedure on a car had to be done at a dealership to create a closed loop system, both with parts and labor. Creating this battery "registration" system from the start as a stratetic design decision is a great way to force people to dealerships, where people would get acquainted with a dealership's service department at a time in the vehicle's lifespan where more repairs will be needed, maybe get other work done while it's in the shop, introduce a new routine/habit with many owners, and have customers browse the new merchandise on the lot to sell more new cars.

Brilliant really, but pretty much a complete scam. Batteries inconveniently go out all the time when you're nowhere near a dealership nor want to pay extreme markups, especially at a Porsche dealership. They could design the car just fine to pop in a new like-kind battery and skip the registration process and absolutely everything would be fine with the vehicle, as it's been done forever. One of those situations where we don't have enough owner data yet to know whether we can safely circumvent the trap or not.
 
#525 ·
My experience with AGM batteries is that they do tend to die suddenly. Wet batteries usually give you plenty of time before they finally die.
 
#539 ·
Not if you know what to look for. Battery analyzers, AFAIK, look at the internal resistance. AGM batteries have lower internal resistance than wet cells. The analyzers know this. For Porsches batteries its measured in EN, just a different type of measure for cold cranking amps. You can research this but AFAIK, when the battery is not fully charged, it sulphates. That hardens over time. The battery then never fully recharges.


Sulfation decreases the potential to reach a full charge, and it self-discharges the battery quicker than normal. Charging a sulfated battery is like trying to wash your hands while wearing gloves. At this point, charging alone will not restore the battery to a healthy condition. The majority of replacement battery purchases occur when the original battery has reached this point.
In other words, the CCA or EN can be fine but because of sulfation the battery never gets a full charge and discharges quickly. I think thats what they mean by dies quickly. And you can't reverse it. So the analyzer knows the CCA and knows the voltage. It could say it "passed" based on the CCA being good enough but if it never fully charges and quickly discharged, its not good.
 
#526 ·
Seems like carrying a jump starter may be even more important!
 
#528 ·
After 526 replies this will probably be lost. I have an outstanding independent repair facility that pretty much only works on German vehicles. They have all the most current equipment to work on these cars.
1. You do not need to go back to the dealer to replace the battery. 2. It is an AGM battery . 3. Several suppliers have them . I am a NAPA advocate , Their batteries are made by East Penn. 4. When replacing you need to keep the circuit powered, so hook up another battery to the booster / jumper posts under the hood. If you un hook the battery you will loose programing in some of the many computers in the car. If that happens it may not start and you'll need to get it towed to a shop that can reprogram them. If you have a 92 AH battery that is what you need to replace it with. The charging system is programed to charge that spec battery. No need or reason to go bigger.
This set up is like most of the German and many others .
I also have an I Teck charger /maintainer set up. If am not using the car for a week or more I plug it in and keep if fully charged. I direct wired the power plug in the rear compartment so it is always hot.
 
#530 ·
If you have a 92 AH battery that is what you need to replace it with. The charging system is programed to charge that spec battery. No need or reason to go bigger.
The 92 AH battery is rated 850EN. The 105 AH battery is rated 950 EN. You might appreciate that difference if you live in the snow belt on a cold morning. Programming via PIWIS accomodates either one for the alternator to charge.
 
#531 ·
I don't think that works. Using jump cables to connect to another car's battery during the swap may work.
 
#541 ·
My Macan S hasn‘t been driven for 2 weeks, and last drive was kinda short for about 15 mins only due to the new lockdown measures.

Today I checked the battery voltage on the MFD with the key on the accessory position, it was 11.6v. I remember the previous voltage was like 12.4v. But the car started right up with no problem at all. I drove it on freeway for 25 mins and the alternator charging voltage was 14.8v.

i think my 5-year old OEM battery is still good.
 
#546 ·
I plan on keeping the vehicle for another couple years or so as I've been tempted by the hopeful Tesla S redesign.

If the battery died I wouldn't hesitate in the slightest to pick up whatever is available at Costco or the like. No way would I go to the dealer.
 
#549 ·
You can still drive out from time to time. Taking a 30 mins drive on the freeway every week is good enough.
 
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#551 ·
I understand, it was a more of a theoretical question, like how long can I go without starting it up and what is the minimum voltage I need. I left mine in Minnesota winter on the airport for a week and it started up just fine.
 
#550 ·
You can't trust the MFD voltage in the accessory position. Its showing you the voltage with the computers firing up from being asleep. You got to put a meter on the battery or use a battery analyzer on the battery to get the true voltage at rest. Even then, just opening the hatch fires things up but at least the accessory position is not on.

And if your state shows lockdown, not driving other than to essential services, then no you can't go for a joyride, state dependent upon their executive orders, legally, You need to read your states executive order and the penalty for not complying.
 
#558 ·
And if your state shows lockdown, not driving other than to essential services, then no you can't go for a joyride, state dependent upon their executive orders, legally, You need to read your states executive order and the penalty for not complying.
”But officer, I was not joyriding. I was looking for an open supermarket.“

”But sir, you are more than 50 miles from home”.

” I knew I should’ve bought those navigation updates from Porsche“
 
#552 ·
The longest I haven't started my Macan was 3-4 weeks without any problems, but the climate here in SF bay area is very mild compared to MN. Battery condition is dependent on many factors, including temperature.
 
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#559 ·
I can confirm the Autel MD808 will register a replacement battery for the Macan just as Alessia3 described above in post #440. This was on a 2016 S gasoline engine.

Bought the MD808 from obd2tool.com for $208 delivered.

H8 95AH AutoCraft AGM replacement battery came from Advanced Auto ($199.99 less 20%) plus a $22 refundable core charge.

Installation and programming with the Autel tool was as straightforward as could be. The 15 place serial number as well as the 11 place Porsche part number serve no purpose other than to provide subsequent technicians with the history of battery changes in the vehicle.
 
#560 ·
The 15 place serial number as well as the 11 place Porsche part number serve no purpose other than to provide subsequent technicians with the history of battery changes in the vehicle.
I assumed this to be the case. Difficult to imagine the car would be able to act upon part and serial number data.
 
#565 ·
Thanks!

That is a problem for me. A big added expense. I assume the Windows computer is needed for both Auto MD808 as well as MD808Pro models.
 
#566 ·
Honestly, I think you don't need TO BUY a windows pc, only To USE a windows pc, and only if you want to update (once?) the device firmware.
As you can see (snapshot taken today from autel site), there are some firmware updates for porsche, but:
1) maybe, if you buy a device today, it could be already up to date with latest firmware; or
2) maybe, registering is possible also with old firmware; or
3) in the worst case, you can ask a friend with a windows pc to update the device for you, or to use his pc for 2 hours, only to finish the update procedure.
So, I hope your friend won't be so expensive...
 

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#568 ·
I just checked the Autel MD808 Pro manual p.79. (I D/L this when Autel was 1st mentioned on MF)
It says you ARE able to update with Mac, just not via USB.
 

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#573 ·
I just checked on autel site, there is a download link for "maxi Pc suite" also for mac, the result is a download of a pkg (zipped) files with that software.
so I think that there is no need for windows pc, because autel released also a mac version of the software.
When I updated my device, I downloaded the windows version of "maxi PC suite" and, after install, the upgrade procedure was very easy
 
#582 ·
Re 15 digit battery serial #.
which # on the label is the serial #? Several choices!
14 digit, 13 digit, 10 digit?

My Macan Varta:

7P0915 105C

AGM 12V 92 Ah
520A DIN
850A EN/SAE/GS
BEM Code
7P ∅ 151 ∅ 5C
JCB25 ∅7 ∅11179
2 ∅5 JCB 2F71179 ∅

If I count the 2 asterisks for the 14 digit # then it becomes a 16 digit #.
(Note the forum software deleted the asterisks, but the following # has an asterisk b4 & after
2 ∅5 JCB 2F71179 ∅)
 
#584 ·
There's a long discussion on Rennlist forum and no one has said anything about the Autel working which is why I asked. I have the Launch x431 so just completing the roster of analyzers that are able to do the registration.

Iconoclast, I'll get back to you tomorrow on that.

siberian