[Ymaval]

I grew tired of the issue and gave up on OEM mic. I am going to live with the mic provided by Mr12v. Something doesn’t work right. Not sure if the connectors done make contact or something else. I also noticed that along the way, I have lost rear-view camera. Fuse e6 is fine. Not feeling great after all the time I put into it. You folks have been very helpful but I think isudar has done something to my car. I may try the spare PCM to check but I’m growing tired of the pain…
I also tried hooking a mic in the roof and just using the wires but it produced the exact same noise. I feel like I am just going downhill with adding more issues than solving…

 

[Ymaval]

One important update for Mr12v probably is preventing the white plug from being inserted the wrong way. I think that may have been the root cause of the new issues. My own fault though.

 

[Ymaval]

Update: I found the issues. It was all in the connectors. Mr12volt connectors get loose after being connected and disconnected a few times.
so for anyone attempting it now, I recommend being careful with the connectors. They are not heavy duty like the OEM stuff. If you want to use the OEM mic, try taping into wires rather than connectors.

My troubleshooting steps:

• test spare pcm without Mr12v harness => everything works fine except mic and no sound
• I accidentally learned to program the VIN on my spare PCM using LAUNCH x431 which brought back the sound. It doesn’t need codes from dealer. It was interesting.
• put my own pcm back without Mr12v and everything works fine except mic.
• added Mr12v harness and lost rear view camera.
• tested connector connectivity and learned that some are not making contact.
• compressed connectors and replaced, everything works except mic.

regarding mic noise: it may also have been connector issue. One ground wire may not have made contact. Unfortunate for me ‘cause the mic doesn’t work anymore.

Mr12v vs iSudar: iSudar is definitely easier to install. Mr12v is higher end device. After update I realized it does improve video color adjustment a little bit. (Tones are correct without adjustment)

My summary is that Mr12v has to improve on the following to become ideal setup:

• better connectors (and prevent incorrect fitting)
• add OEM mic. I have no idea why they didn’t do it.
• make the box slightly smaller. That would increase placement options.
• improve video bit depth.
• add usb firmware update or include sdcard extension with LEDs
• allow for changing logos and icons easily.

 

[Thedutchcrew]

@Santirx you're work and guide on this mod has been exemplary, thanks so much for all the hard work!! 🤜🤛
@Ymaval thanks for your great input, quick response and getting me the Turbo picture 😇

I am just starting on the MR12Volt journey, but now after a few hours of working it is in and I love it

p.s. When installing make sure you fixate the daughter-board cable - i did not and inadvertently pulled it loose from the board connector at the final installation, making me redo all the work again 🥴

 

[Ymaval]

@Thedutchcrew , excellent. Glad it worked well for you. How did the mic work for you, and which pins did u use? How is the voice quality? IEM level?

 

[Thedutchcrew]

First glance Mic is working ok, siri and quick call gave no strange results.
I connected the Mic+ and Ground shield pin only, so let me do some more testing and get some feedback from the other end of the line to hear how it is for them.

 

[Santirx]

I’m glad everything worked for you, @Thedutchcrew.

How is the video? Are you noticing color depth/banding issues, like I demonstrated in my latest video?

BTW, @Ymaval, people in Rennlist are also reporting success with mic install using the procedure I developed, even with Joye system.

 

[Thedutchcrew]

Indeed the 8bit banding is present here as well with color gradients, would love if mr12v can fix this but for now everything beats the stock system

 

[yoyo]

So, I received my Mr12Volt unit today and jump to install it. First problem I ran into was removing the vents/trim. I ended up breaking some of the vent fins. What a pain in the butt! But once that was done, the PCM unit was easy to remove. Seond problem I ran into was removing the CD tray. It doesn't so easily slide out. I had to really work at getting that lose. Once that hurdle was jumped, the board was easy to install. I ended up removing the XM radio board all together. Getting that cable out was a struggle too. I almost just cut the cable but after breaking some small plastic bits, managed to figure out how to get that cable lose from the clamp. Putting back the CD tray was another problem as I did not notice the metal tabs that I ended up bending. Next was putting it all back. Managed to figure out how to cable it all up, confusing part was the FO cable. I dediced to route the Mr12volt cables to the driver side instead of the passenger side since I didn't want to deal with removing the glove compartment. I found a route through the left side and down under the steering wheel. Then the hardest part: making enough room with all the extra cables to slide the unit back in place. I don't think there's any easy way but just trial and error. Did manage to power up and get the CarPlay connected wirelessly. My first impression was WOW! It works! But then, immediate disappointment at seeing the screen in 8 bit mode. Seriously after $500 and all that effort and to see that was a bummer. I got over it fast and as I was putting everything back, I was checking everything and BOOM! The problem: I do not get any sound from FM or AM radio. S-O-S HELP! I'm wondering if I shouldn't have removed the XM radio board. Could it be that? Or could it be something else? Did I do something as I was pushing the unit back in? I ran out of time today so I'll need to tackle this problem tomorrow. Any ideas any one? Mr. @Santirx? Perhaps you have some ideas? 😢

 

[Ymaval]

@yoyo I have also removed my XM for installing Mr12v. I’ll check tomorrow to see if I have sound from FM. I know I have sound from Bluetooth and nav. But haven’t tested radio.
For fins, I have a spare vent. I can send u the the fins if I know exactly which one(s) you have broken. I purchased a spare on eBay for $80 only for 1 fin 🤦‍♂️ but haven’t replaced the fin yet. I assume you broke the piece that connects the fin to the black metal piece behind them. I found the best technique to be what Santirx does in video: pull with one hand while holding back with the other, to prevent it from jumping out. For removal tool, I made one out of IKEA cabinet holders (a rod with a thin end). I should have made it sooner. Makes the job so much easier.
And, don’t worry too much about the pins holding the cd drive. I see them more as a convenience for installing (as they hold it in place before screwing) rather than a necessity because it is screwed anyway.
I agree about video. They should have charge a few $ more and give us: better bit depth and integrated mic connection. Still, it’s way better than iSudar for connectivity and sound quality. I see the video problem as a hardware limitation, but I hope to be wrong. Santirx’s SD card extension idea is excellent. I did that and it works: leave extender in, plug SD card into extension, pull the fuse and re-insert fuse. Works.

 

[Santirx]

So, I received my Mr12Volt unit today and jump to install it. First problem I ran into was removing the vents/trim. I ended up breaking some of the vent fins. What a pain in the butt! But once that was done, the PCM unit was easy to remove. Seond problem I ran into was removing the CD tray. It doesn't so easily slide out. I had to really work at getting that lose. Once that hurdle was jumped, the board was easy to install. I ended up removing the XM radio board all together. Getting that cable out was a struggle too. I almost just cut the cable but after breaking some small plastic bits, managed to figure out how to get that cable lose from the clamp. Putting back the CD tray was another problem as I did not notice the metal tabs that I ended up bending. Next was putting it all back. Managed to figure out how to cable it all up, confusing part was the FO cable. I dediced to route the Mr12volt cables to the driver side instead of the passenger side since I didn't want to deal with removing the glove compartment. I found a route through the left side and down under the steering wheel. Then the hardest part: making enough room with all the extra cables to slide the unit back in place. I don't think there's any easy way but just trial and error. Did manage to power up and get the CarPlay connected wirelessly. My first impression was WOW! It works! But then, immediate disappointment at seeing the screen in 8 bit mode. Seriously after $500 and all that effort and to see that was a bummer. I got over it fast and as I was putting everything back, I was checking everything and BOOM! The problem: I do not get any sound from FM or AM radio. S-O-S HELP! I'm wondering if I shouldn't have removed the XM radio board. Could it be that? Or could it be something else? Did I do something as I was pushing the unit back in? I ran out of time today so I'll need to tackle this problem tomorrow. Any ideas any one? Mr. @Santirx? Perhaps you have some ideas? 😢

Something similar happened to me before…. While installing my Joye system for first time, I lost AM/FM connection. It ended up being loose cables… there were some cables (see photo -yellow circle) that I loosen when I was connecting ribbon wires.

Try that… and make sure all cables and wires are properly seated.

 

[Ymaval]

@Santirx yeah. It seams iSudar board did something to my pcm during update. There is an electrical issue somehow… couldn’t figure it out. I’m so irritated by that. Irritated enough that I put together a setup to independently bias an electret mic in the OEM mic’s place using the OEM wires and connect it to Mr12v by coupling it with a capacitor and GLI to reduce the noise to an acceptable level. Mr12v seems to be biasing the mic @1.5v while OEM is biased @6v. Granted my car may have an issue and not be the same as everyone else at this point. I found a few Audi mics from when they sent us samples years ago, which are also biased @6v. I will try to use one of those. The Audi ones have a preamp which should help too. The Porsche one has two mics. One (larger) is directly wired to PCM without preamp while the smaller one is wired to an unknown location to me and has a preamp. I have no clue what the second one does. The issue in my car seems to be related to the grounding of PCM itself. I don’t know what may have caused it. The mic+ and mic- pins are connected to the larger electret mic directly, but mic- seems to also be connected to ground somewhere outside of PCM which may mean that I would have to use GLI to isolate it when connected to Mr12v. But the combo of preamp and GLI should do it. PCM will not have mic but I don’t care at this point. I haven’t used PCM except for navigation outside of cell coverage anytime that I had a working CarPlay. I don’t even connect to PCM’s Bluetooth anymore. Mr12v is way better quality.

I’m glad everything worked for you, @Thedutchcrew.

How is the video? Are you noticing color depth/banding issues, like I demonstrated in my latest video?

BTW, @Ymaval, people in Rennlist are also reporting success with mic install using the procedure I developed, even with Joye system.

 

[Santirx]

@Santirx yeah. It seams iSudar board did something to my pcm during update. There is an electrical issue somehow… couldn’t figure it out. I’m so irritated by that. Irritated enough that I put together a setup to independently bias an electret mic in the OEM mic’s place using the OEM wires and connect it to Mr12v by coupling it with a capacitor and GLI to reduce the noise to an acceptable level. Mr12v seems to be biasing the mic @1.5v while OEM is biased @6v. Granted my car may have an issue and not be the same as everyone else at this point. I found a few Audi mics from when they sent us samples years ago, which are also biased @6v. I will try to use one of those. The Audi ones have a preamp which should help too. The Porsche one has two mics. One (larger) is directly wired to PCM without preamp while the smaller one is wired to an unknown location to me and has a preamp. I have no clue what the second one does. The issue in my car seems to be related to the grounding of PCM itself. I don’t know what may have caused it. The mic+ and mic- pins are connected to the larger electret mic directly, but mic- seems to also be connected to ground somewhere outside of PCM which may mean that I would have to use GLI to isolate it when connected to Mr12v. But the combo of preamp and GLI should do it. PCM will not have mic but I don’t care at this point. I haven’t used PCM except for navigation outside of cell coverage anytime that I had a working CarPlay. I don’t even connect to PCM’s Bluetooth anymore. Mr12v is way better quality.

The second mic may be the one that connects to the amplifier. It measures cabin noise and adjust audio accordingly when you select that option in the PCM Bose system.

 

[yoyo]

Thank you @Ymaval & @Santirx. I took the unit apart and reseated all the cables and still no sound from AM/FM radio. 😭

@Ymaval, thanks for the offer on the vent fins but I'm just going to live with the fact that I can't adjust it left and right. I'll decide whether to replace all the vents later.

@Santirx, I check the two cable and they were securely in place:

One problem I noticed when I opened up the PCM was that the small white cable adapter had come apart while I was taking the PCM out.

Seems like there should/could have been a better way to secure the connector. I ended up redoing the cable tie (it's easier to do it before the board is screwed on) and added an extra cable tie before the exit point:

I ran out of time to try to reinstall the XM radio card so I reassembled everything since I needed the car. Except the car wouldn't start because my battery was too low. Apparently, I forgot to completely shut off the ignition. Another ordeal that I had to resolve.

After the reassmbly, I realized that putting the unit on the driver side was a big mistake. There is no sensible place to hide and secure the Mr12volt unit. It's just sitting under my steering column. Not a big fan.

Will have to redo the entire install again! Ugh!

 

[marc_hanna]

Sorry if this has already been noted, is there an update yet for fixing the sound issues? You know, that intermittent snapping sound?

 

[Santirx]

Sorry if this has already been noted, is there an update yet for fixing the sound issues? You know, that intermittent snapping sound?

It has been solved. Contact Mr12Volt directly via whatsapp.

 

[getschwifty]

Just updated my software. Now have a new issue where the display is showing 2 small quadrants rather than the full screen. Anyone else experience this?

 

[Santirx]

Just updated my software. Now have a new issue where the display is showing 2 small quadrants rather than the full screen. Anyone else experience this?

View attachment 262988

Odd…Never seen that. I recommend you contact Mr12volt on this…

 

[Ymaval]

I don’t mean to be rude, but It’s about time I see someone with just as bad luck as I. I thought I had the worst luck with iSudar issue that happened during update. My update with Mr12v went ok after Santirx gave me the intermediate update file. Mr12v should add that file to archive and instruct everyone to do that update first.
The two small quarter panels is ridiculous. Granted, Mr12v is responsive. It’s good that we have competition between three (or rather more only 2) companies. it gives us better costumer service and Santirx has been helping everyone out and has a solid line of communication with Mr12v. Hope it works out for you. Did u try doing the update again? On Mr12v it’s so fast and easy (if u have sd card access) that one could do it again just to check.

Just updated my software. Now have a new issue where the display is showing 2 small quadrants rather than the full screen. Anyone else experience this?

View attachment 262988

 

[Santirx]

@getschwifty , I agree with @Ymaval …. Do a back-rev. Revert to prior version of firmware and see if that solves it. If you don’t have prior version (finishing in 2.3) either @Ymaval or I can provide. If that solve it, you can try upgrading again with file ending in 2.5.