Porsche Macan Forum banner
1,061 - 1,070 of 1,070 Posts
Hopefully folks who purchased a different model can chime in to let you know if the same fused pigtail is included in the other models.
My MXS 5.0 CTEK came with a fused pigtail.
 
Definitely, no LED indicator lights . However, the packaging is long gone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SnakeEyesB
Bit of advice should you need to make a warranty claim: save your email purchase confirmation as proof of purchase. The warranty is only good for the original purchaser.
I think I purchased mine directly from the CTEK website and there was no receipt in box when it arrived.
The first one I bought only lasted 2 1/2 years so it’s been sent back with a request for CTEK to check its records for my initial purchase because I can’t find the purchase confirmation email. I think they can tell from the serial number that I’m the original owner 🤞🏻 They did respond quickly to my email regarding the problem with the first unit.
I bought a second 7002 while I wait to see how they handle the warranty claim.
Again, no receipt in the box. I’m saving the order confirmation this time.
Can you tell I really don’t want battery issues. Too many gremlins appear when the battery starts having issues.
 
The MFD shown battery voltage may not be accurate and under load.
This is exactly what I suspected all along and finally made measurements to prove it.
My MFD shows 11.6 V (engine off of course), measured under the hood at the terminals I got 11.93 and measured directly at the battery terminals I got 12.03 V. Those differences are substantial enough to totally fool my Topdon battery tester, while directly at the terminals it tells me I need to charge my battery (23% charge) but otherwise it is 66% healthy, the same test performed under the hood tells me I got a BAD battery, replace!!

You can almost add half a Volt to your MFD readout.

An old thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
 
This is exactly what I suspected all along and finally made measurements to prove it.
My MFD shows 11.6 V (engine off of course), measured under the hood at the terminals I got 11.93 and measured directly at the battery terminals I got 12.03 V. Those differences are substantial enough to totally fool my Topdon battery tester, while directly at the terminals it tells me I need to charge my battery (23% charge) but otherwise it is 66% healthy, the same test performed under the hood tells me I got a BAD battery, replace!!

You can almost add half a Volt to your MFD readout.

An old thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
Actually, the only way to measure a battery is with nothing connected to it. Even with the ignition off, there are still plenty of connections live which will then produce different voltages at different measurement locations. Think of this like your household water supply. With the water off everywhere, the pressure will be the same everywhere. With a faucet open, pressure will be highest at the point of entry and lowest at the faucet. Voltage behaves not unlike water pressure in a set of pipes. Problem is, you can not actually turn everything off in a Macan. So disconnecting the battery from the car is needed to get a proper measurement.
 
This is exactly what I suspected all along and finally made measurements to prove it.
My MFD shows 11.6 V (engine off of course), measured under the hood at the terminals I got 11.93 and measured directly at the battery terminals I got 12.03 V. Those differences are substantial enough to totally fool my Topdon battery tester, while directly at the terminals it tells me I need to charge my battery (23% charge) but otherwise it is 66% healthy, the same test performed under the hood tells me I got a BAD battery, replace!!

You can almost add half a Volt to your MFD readout.

An old thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
If you think the 66% reading is accurate (I'd say no but, close to accurate & not worth trying to disconnect the battery to get 100% accurate reading)...your battery is on the way to fail. Some battery conductance testers use 70% SOH as the cut off. Some use 80%!

You may want to plan for a new battery & carry a JNC Jump starter (Or small Li-Ion one) in your Macan.

Hopefully, you can DIY the battery change when it is time. Many posts on how to DIY & also how to register the new battery.

If possible, you may want to fully charge your battery 1x/week with a CTEK to maximize the remaining life.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Olasek
This is exactly what I suspected all along and finally made measurements to prove it.
My MFD shows 11.6 V (engine off of course), measured under the hood at the terminals I got 11.93 and measured directly at the battery terminals I got 12.03 V. Those differences are substantial enough to totally fool my Topdon battery tester, while directly at the terminals it tells me I need to charge my battery (23% charge) but otherwise it is 66% healthy, the same test performed under the hood tells me I got a BAD battery, replace!!

You can almost add half a Volt to your MFD readout.

An old thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
If you think the 66% reading is accurate (I'd say no but, close to accurate & not worth trying to disconnect the battery to get 100% accurate reading)...your battery is on the way to fail. Some battery conductance testers use 70% SOH as the cut off. Some use 80%!

You may want to plan for a new battery & carry a JNC Jump starter (Or small Li-Ion one) in your Macan.

Hopefully, you can DIY the battery change when it is time. Many posts on how to DIY & also how to register the new battery.

If possible, you may want to fully charge your battery 1x/week with a CTEK to maximize the remaining life.
@olasec
Some of the CTEK models have a recondition mode. Maybe try that to extend the life of your battery. My 2017 Turbo only has about 65,000 miles on it and the battery always checks out fine when serviced. Does running the recondition mode help? IDK. My drives are either short or fairly long and I have the CTEK MSX hooked up most days.
 
1,061 - 1,070 of 1,070 Posts