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Caveat: The following is information only. Caveat Emptor. These products are not Porsche official products and your use is on you. What has worked for me, and the risks I take, might not work for you. The following is, in good faith, correct to my knowledge. If anything is wrong, say so and lets correct it. I’ve used a CTEK faithfully for almost 12 years, using it hundreds of times. They work. Most of this comes from experience, some gathered from info within the forum and there's too many people to credit or find who said what, from their trial and error, so I'd attribute it to the entire forum.

There are many threads on charging the battery or general battery information. Here are some:

New Battery what battery maintainer to buy
Replacing the Battery
Battery tender takes Forever
Are 12V outlets on late '15's coded to accept trickle chargers?

I’m going to try to give step-by-step directions on how to charge a Macan with a CTEK smart charger. CTEKs seem to be the de facto, go to smart charger for Porsches, for maybe a decade. AFAIK, Porsche chargers are rebranded CTEKs. This does not mean you can’t use anything else, but rather its what I know. YMMV. Try anything at your own risk. Feel free to add how to use any other charger to the thread. Here is the North American website for CTEK.

If you care about warranty, there are authorized dealers and CTEK specifically warns you against using unauthorized dealers. There are many versions of the CTEK but for general purposes, lets focus solely on what should work. Ignore the .8, 3.3, and 25 Amp versions and focus on the 4.3 and 7 Amp versions. There is also a 4.3 Amp polar version good to -22F. Otherwise, they are good to -4F. The versions have evolved to now the user interface shows 8 lights or there is the CT5 version that gives the number of hours left to finish charging. The 3300 does not have the capacity to charge the 92AH Macan Battery topping at 90 AH. The 4.3 Amp versions are good to 110 AH and the 7 amp version much higher. The 7 Amp will also provide constant power to the car while the others 4.3 will not. These are not Jump Packs. If you need a jump pack, then there are many small lithium versions or larger AGM battery jump packs like the Clore Jump N Carry. These units should not overcharge a battery. This isn't your grandpa's trickle charger. For a good overview of what is going on watch:


Like many others, I discovered the hard way that if you don’t drive modern Porsches every day, the battery dies. It’s as simple as this. I know I was pretty upset. My sports car was two years old and stranded with a dead battery. I had to call AAA for a jump and visit the dealer for a new battery. That was so much fun. :rolleyes: Porsche warns you to use a battery maintainer under certain circumstances. For example, from the New Car Limited Warranty & Customer Information Model Year 2019

"Your Responsibility for Normal Vehicle Use .
.. A battery maintainer is available at your local authorized Porsche dealer. It must be used to maintain your vehicle’s battery state of charge if your vehicle will not be used for several days.)"
“must be used”. It goes on to talk about 6,000 miles per rolling year. That’s about 16 miles/day. And so I learned that whatever I knew about other cars, no longer applied and no amount of being upset about it would matter. If a Porsche isn’t driven in a week, I plug it in to top off the battery. In the winter with colder temperatures outside, I might do it more often. I have used the 4.3 on the old style battery and the AGM. I do not think you are supposed to use the recondition mode on AGM. I have used it on the non-AGM battery and it worked. The 5 Amp version does have a recondition mode for AGM. I only use the snowflake mode on the AGM batteries. I’ve also used the tiny battery option on the 4.3 to charge a small motorcycle size battery used in a generator. It worked fine and it wasn’t on snowflake mode. In the following, Jay is holding up a 4.3. If its good enough for Jay, its good enough for me.


Determine whatever size meets your needs. I settled on the 4.3 because at the time I bought it, the 3300 did not have the 8 lights and the 7 Amp seemed like overkill. There are many accessories for CTEKs. You can see them all on their website.

I've found the 8’ extension valuable.


I find the rubber bumper a must have. Who wants to accidentally bang a metal box against the body work? CTEK Bumper 56-915

This is the cigarette lighter adapter


Eyelets. Caution, there are different sizes


The units might be splashproof but I doubt they are waterproof. If you use this outside, I would be wary of rain, ice, sleet, snow, or any precipitation.

How to connect the unit:

In the sports cars, the eyelet connectors can be directly connected to the battery permanently. The eyelet connector cap has an o-ring sealed from weather. It can be snaked through the windshield wipers opening, put a baggie on top for extra protection and then the car charged without opening anything. Unfortunately, the Macan battery is in the worst possible place I can image for ease of access, buried under the hatch floor, under the spare. Who is going to try to get to that in a snowstorm to jump the car? Watch around 2:30. There is no easy way to put the eyelets on because the connector does not unscrew.


@JoeInBucks mentions making some other kind of U connector but anything made is a jury rig. This was not designed to add anything onto it. Then there is the problem of how to run the cord out. The eyelet accesory probably isn’t long enough so you’d need to use the extension cord and where does it lie? Many people use a SUV as a SUV and throw all kinds of stuff in the hatch, probably not paying attention to where things land. I’d end up damaging the cord. I consider this a non-starter. This brings us to the connections under the hood for jump starting.

You can connect to the terminals under the hood, with the alligator clips and it does work. In order to close the hood, the clip has to lie nearly flat.



The positive terminal is a tight fit to the bolt



I’ve seen Macans in dealerships charging this way. But, that’s in a showroom with the hood up. The upside to this method is that if the power goes out, then the CTEK should restart from the beginning, quickly going through the 8 steps to the point it left off. However, if it were in pulse mode, I’d expect it would wait 10 days before going back to pulse mode.

There are two downsides. First, constantly opening and closing the hood is an aggravation. The hood release feels like a cheap piece of plastic that could break one day. The hood is huge and you need to get the clips to lay flat if closing the hood. Second, the moment you open the hood, then close it, you cannot get an oil level reading until you drive maybe 10 miles or so. YMMV. The downsides to this seem to outweigh the positive. Unless fear of a power outage is real, I do not see this as a reasonable solution with the alligator clips.

The last way to charge is via the cigarette lighter adapter. I don't know if the other outlets will work. Somewhere back around 2015, somebody mentioned that you could get the dealer to "code" the lighter to remain hot. I haven't seen this can happen recently. So this is under the assumption it shuts down after some short period of time.

Before going into the steps, there is one huge downside to all of this, and that's the user interface. It seems thats its mired in the mid-2000s while the world has moved on to "there's an app for that". By this I mean that I can sit somewhere else, BBQ some steaks, and know exactly the temperature of the pit and the internal temp of the steaks, remotely by looking at a tiny device or an app on a phone. I can turn lights on/off in the house from anywhere in the world. Yet, in order to see the status of these devices, one has to physically go to them and look at some lights. First world problems to be sure but IMO 10 year old technology. IMO, there should be an app for that, to include remote turning the unit on and off, as well as to know, reasonably close, the number of minutes left to finish charging. In 2008 this felt like magic, bringing a dead battery back to life. Today, the user interface, IMO, feels old. That's not criticism of the charging technology but my opinion that society has got me used to just looking at a phone, and getting an immediate answer.

Continued in the next post.
 

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Charging via the cigarette lighter (assuming you have the lighter).

I try to be careful handling the unit and not pick it up or carry it by the cords. Over time, they can break. Lesson Learned. In the following pictures, this 4.3 is almost 5 years old. It works fine. Follow at your own risk. The downside to this is if there is a power outage, then the charger should not restart. Caveat Emptor. The upside is that its simple, trivial to get the hang of, and unlike the hood, the doors are probably designed to be opened and closed many, many more times than a hood.

Step 1

Turn the key to accessory position. The car wakes up.

Step 2

Remove the cigarette lighter. Put it in that tiny ashtray so you don’t lose it. Makes sure the plug is pushed all the way in for good contact. Sometimes people complain about a loose connection. I suspect they just didn’t get a good initial connection.



Step 3

Run the wire across the driver seat toward the door. Here, the cigarette plug is connected to the 8’ extension.



Step 4

Run the cord out the bottom of the door. I know this might freak somebody out who might wants to run it out of the window but the door has a rubber piece on the bottom that you can’t see. It doesn’t seem to harm the car or the wire and the door shuts. But, do whatever makes you happy. If your worried about it crimping or harming the body, then figure out some other way to get the cord out. This is also a good reason to use the 8’ extension. If you damage the extension, it cost maybe $11 for a new one. If you damage the actual cord, you probably need a new charger.



Step 5

Plug in the CTEK. Make sure the correct lights are on. It should move to the third light very quickly. If you get an error, figure out why.

Step 6

Turn the key off. If it’s a real key, remove it. Close and lock the door

Step 7

This is my experience. The first 3 lights should turn on quickly. According to the manual, the unit does not go to the fourth light until the battery is 80% charged. It could take, per the manual, up to 20 hours. If the lights sits at the 3rd light for a long time, I think its telling me the battery is run down. I like to see it go from the third light to fourth within no more than 10 mins, which tells me, with no proof, that’s the battery is really no more than 80% discharged. At the fourth light, it’s just patience. It’s supposed to take no more than 10 hours. Once it moves to the 5th light, it’s only a couple of minutes until the green light should turn on. Once its green, it can stay there as long as you want. I’ve had it sit for days on my cars. It should look like this.



Step 8

Open the door, unplug the cigarette adapter, and put the cigarette lighter back where it belongs. Remove the cord from the car and lock it back up. Unplug the CTEK and put it where you store it. Manual says unplug CTEK first.

I hope this helps somebody. YMMV. You’re on your own. :)
 

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Grim...good information but I have a question about this process. To help keep my battery charged I use a CTEK 4.3 and place it in snowflake mode and use the cigarette lighter plug. Everything seems to proceed through the charging process as you described except at the end. I go out the next day to check the results and notice no lit lights except for the power light is flashing green. The instruction booklet doesn't mention this so maybe someone on this forum can explain. I notice my car is fully charged when I take it out for a drive so it much be charging the battery.
 

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Grim great job putting this post together. It should be really helpful to new and old owners. Good point about opening and closing the hood vs a door. Didn’t consider that. I’ve been using the socket in the cargo area on the driver side. I’ll be giving the socket at the bottom of the rear center console a try to see if turning the key to the accessory position also wakes up this socket and keeps it “hot”. It’s works with the cargo socket.

Just a couple of comments:

1. The MSX 5.0 charger has a specific reconditioning program for AGM batteries. You just need to cycle through the Mode button until both the AGM and reconditioning indicator lights are selected and lit.

2. The MSX 5.0 model does not seem to have any issues restarting after a power outage. It stays in the same mode it was in at the time power is lost. I simulated a power outage by just unplugging the charger (from the 110v AC wall outlet) for an hour or so after it had been charging for a couple of hours. The cargo area socket stayed hot during the “power outage” and continued charging after the charger was plunged back into the 110v AC wall outlet. I think I’ll do another test to see if the cargo or rear console 12v outlets stay hot after maybe an 8-10 hour “power outage”. [Edit I'm wrong about the rear console outlet, Its just USB ports. Sorry, new owner error, never looked close]
 

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Grim...good information but I have a question about this process. To help keep my battery charged I use a CTEK 4.3 and place it in snowflake mode and use the cigarette lighter plug. Everything seems to proceed through the charging process as you described except at the end. I go out the next day to check the results and notice no lit lights except for the power light is flashing green. The instruction booklet doesn't mention this so maybe someone on this forum can explain. I notice my car is fully charged when I take it out for a drive so it much be charging the battery.
I don't have that model and I got conflicting info online, ranging from no connection, reconditioning mode to battery voltage too low to charge (<2.2v). Why not contact CTEK? They have any models and several with similar names. The many different models may be causing some confusion here.

To check if your battery is fully charged just unplug the charger then plug it back in. It should cycle through the charging sequence indicator lights pretty quick if fully charged.
 

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Grim...good information but I have a question about this process. To help keep my battery charged I use a CTEK 4.3 and place it in snowflake mode and use the cigarette lighter plug. Everything seems to proceed through the charging process as you described except at the end. I go out the next day to check the results and notice no lit lights except for the power light is flashing green. The instruction booklet doesn't mention this so maybe someone on this forum can explain. I notice my car is fully charged when I take it out for a drive so it much be charging the battery.
I had exactly these same symptoms when using my CTEK MXS 5.0 (in AGM mode) to charge my car via the cigarette lighter plug. In my case in drained the battery! I think that even the slightest poor connection (possibly from the CTEK extension connectors, or maybe the 12V plug itself) is enough for the charger to lose 'sync' and give up! In the CTEK manual it says that the flashing green power light means that the charger has entered the energy save mode, which happens if the charger isn't connected to a battery in 2 minutes.

I have never had a problem charging my car via the jump start terminals under the bonnet (hood), and like JoeInBucks I am planning to permanently attach a CTEK direct connector adapter so that I can charge with the bonnet (hood) closed.
 

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1. The MSX 5.0 charger has a specific reconditioning program for AGM batteries. You just need to cycle through the Mode button until both the AGM and reconditioning indicator lights are selected and lit.
OP was corrected. I see your right.

2. The MSX 5.0 model does not seem to have any issues restarting after a power outage. It stays in the same mode it was in at the time power is lost.
The issue isn't with the unit. The issue is the socket. The cigarette lighter, from people's experiences, seems to go back to sleep. Are you saying the cargo socket is always hot, never shut off?

I go out the next day to check the results and notice no lit lights except for the power light is flashing green.
I see at least two references that this means its sleeping, no connection to the battery. The first is the latest version of the 4.3


and the latest manual says the same thing, as well the 5 Amp manual.


I can easily imagine the original 4.3 behaved the same way and its not in the manual.

This does NOT necessarily mean the poor connection is at the connection point. It only means somewhere along the connection something isn't "connected". My first 4.3 died. I did not treat it gently. I'd pick it up by the wires, and place it down by the wires. It lasted about 6 - 7 years. One time I came out and it wasn't doing anything, no light lit. I jiggled the wires and the lights started to work. I can't remember if the green light was flashing or just on. It started to work. Next time, it did the same thing. It had nothing to do with the cigarette plug or the direct connection I had to the 911.

So, I tossed it and bought the current one I have. I'm pretty sure the wires inside the insulation near the based of the unit coming out were breaking and jiggling them caused an intermittent connection. Maybe this is your problem?

I am planning to permanently attach a CTEK direct connector adapter so that I can charge with the bonnet (hood) closed.
Since there is no easy way to get to the real battery in an emergency to jump the car, the only way to jump it is from those terminals under the hood. Whatever you do, I would not make it impossible to get big alligator clips from cables or Jump Pack onto those bolts.

If you use eyelets on the original bolts, they will flop around, IMO not good. They have to be screwed down tight. But then you can't really get alligator clips on there. I would not give up the ability to jump start the car. I'd like to see your solution.
 

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Don't have my Macan yet, but am wondering how soft those bolts are under the hood. Could you drill and tap them or ? Would still keep the original bolt for alligator clips, but would allow a screw to be attached and then an eyelet.
Otherwise I think I will be hooking up leads to the battery in the rear and keep the wire protected under a trunk tray. I do this today with my F-Type.
 

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Otherwise I think I will be hooking up leads to the battery in the rear and keep the wire protected under a trunk tray. I do this today with my F-Type.
Watch the video above around 2:30. You can't unscrew the bolts to the battery to get an eyelet around, and then tighten them back down. They are not meant to come apart. I guess you could cut the circular eyelet and make it into a U shaped connector and tighten it down but that kind of jury rig was not meant to be.

Even if you could get the eyelets on, the wires are about 13.5". Spread that across the width of the battery ~27", I doubt you can get the end of the connector out of the bottom of the floor. You probably need the 10' extension.

Good luck. please show pix if you do it.
 

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Grim,
Thanks much for the comprehensive write-up, very much appreciated and needed. After reading all the various threads it was a bit confusing as to which C-Tek and its operation. You managed to simplify it all!
Cheers! ?
 
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Don't have my Macan yet, but am wondering how soft those bolts are under the hood. Could you drill and tap them or ? Would still keep the original bolt for alligator clips, but would allow a screw to be attached and then an eyelet.
Otherwise I think I will be hooking up leads to the battery in the rear and keep the wire protected under a trunk tray. I do this today with my F-Type.
Duhcar I haven't tried it yet but I think the jump car posts just screw off. Looks like it will be easy to screw off the negative post, then put the ring lead from a charger pig tail on the strut and screw the post back on. The positive is a little trickier because there is very clearance between the top of the post and its cover. The positive post looks like it is threaded on the inside straight through so it should accept a ring lead held in place by a machine screw/bolt. However as another poster indicated in another thread, when he tried this the extra height prevented the cover from snapping on. I just ordered another positive post part # 955 611 206 00. Its a $4.00 part. My plan is to grind down the bottom of the new post by just the thickness of the ring lead and screw that will hold it in place. I thinking 3/16" or 1/4" should be enough to screw it down enough to allow the cover to be put in place and allow a jumping cable to still be attached. I should get the part in a few days to give this a try. Right now I'm doing a test to see if the center console 12v out will still accept a charge after a simulated power outage and restart of my CETEK MSX 5.0.
 

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Duhcar I haven't tried it yet but I think the jump car posts just screw off. Looks like it will be easy to screw off the negative post, then put the ring lead from a charger pig tail on the strut and screw the post back on.
But it won't be tight and the eyelet will just flop around. Is it a good idea to have the ground loose like that? If you change the original bolt to a smaller bolt and tighten it down, then its doubtful you can use it for a Jump Start.

The positive is a little trickier because there is very clearance between the top of the post and its cover. The positive post looks like it is threaded on the inside straight through so it should accept a ring lead held in place by a machine screw/bolt. However as another poster indicated in another thread, when he tried this the extra height prevented the cover from snapping on. I just ordered another positive post part # 955 611 206 00. Its a $4.00 part. My plan is to grind down the bottom of the new post by just the thickness of the ring lead and screw that will hold it in place. I thinking 3/16" or 1/4" should be enough to screw it down enough to allow the cover to be put in place and allow a jumping cable to still be attached.
Thats interesting and the bolt is cheap. But the eyelet will still flop around and you still got to get the wire out from the top plastic cover, which will no longer click flush in place. I don't see how you can get that cover back in place with the wire that needs to snake out. I don't know why the plastic cover exists anyway other than to keep water out of the bolt, the positive bolt. Why did Porsche put that cover there?

If you are going to unscrew the positive and negative bolts, put the eyelets on them, and screw them back in, they still won't be flush and will flop around. Then you got fish the lead out under the plastic cover, maybe near the wipers so the hood will close. I doubt you want to snake them out on the body. That would be unsightly.

I think those leads flopping around on the bolts could easily lead to disconnects on the CTEK while charging. Let us know how it works out.
 

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I guess you could cut the circular eyelet and make it into a U shaped connector and tighten it down but that kind of jury rig was not meant to be.

Even if you could get the eyelets on, the wires are about 13.5". Spread that across the width of the battery ~27", I doubt you can get the end of the connector out of the bottom of the floor. You probably need the 10' extension.

Good luck. please show pix if you do it.
Stay tuned. I already have a dual Battery Tender with two extensions, but am going down to a one-car family, so will have plenty of wire to play with come April.
 

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I am hoping this will help anyone who is planning on running your charge plug from the battery posts under the hood to the outside of the car so you can charge with the hood closed.

I ran the charge plug for my Ctec 7002 out under my left turn signal. Not noticeable and easy to plug into with the hood closed.

I chose the left turn signal because there is plenty of room to run the wires up along the fender up to the positive and negative posts.

I ran the positive wire into the exiting joint of the rubber seals, then under the plastic to the brake fluid reservoir and then over to the Positive post.

I used the threaded hole of the positive terminal. Again l used a ring connector and screwed it down using a low profile crown bolt. I can close the plastic flap with no issues.

I unscrewed the negative post and placed a ring connector under it- then screwed it back down.
 

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But it won't be tight and the eyelet will just flop around. Is it a good idea to have the ground loose like that? If you change the original bolt to a smaller bolt and tighten it down, then its doubtful you can use it for a Jump Start.



Thats interesting and the bolt is cheap. But the eyelet will still flop around and you still got to get the wire out from the top plastic cover, which will no longer click flush in place. I don't see how you can get that cover back in place with the wire that needs to snake out. I don't know why the plastic cover exists anyway other than to keep water out of the bolt, the positive bolt. Why did Porsche put that cover there?

If you are going to unscrew the positive and negative bolts, put the eyelets on them, and screw them back in, they still won't be flush and will flop around. Then you got fish the lead out under the plastic cover, maybe near the wipers so the hood will close. I doubt you want to snake them out on the body. That would be unsightly.

I think those leads flopping around on the bolts could easily lead to disconnects on the CTEK while charging. Let us know how it works out.
Right now using the leads are my back up plan in case I don't feel confident that the 12v outlets will resume taking a charge after a prolonged power outage. Outages are not all that uncommon where we live.

The top of the positive jump post takes a 1/4' machine bolt. I pretty sure from looking down inside the post that the bottom is screwed down on a stud of the same size. I'm guessing that the negative post is screwed down on a bolt or stud of the same size. The inside diameter of the rings at the ends of the CTECK leads are about 7/16" but I think the outside diameter of the posts are large enough to tighten down on the full width of the ring. If not, a washer could be used. Another option would be to replace the ring leads with marine grade crimp rings of a different size.
 

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I use CTEK MUS 4.3 & it works great in the rear seat 12V socket. I do turn key on & then off b4 connecting it. I think the CETEK MSX 5.0. is the replacement for the MUS 4.3. If I were to be buying a CTEK now I think I'd get the 7002 so I could use it to supply power when changing out a car battery. The MUS 4.3 & probably the 5.0 cannot supply power with battery disconnected.
 

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The top of the positive jump post takes a 1/4' machine bolt.
It's a metric M8 thread* (8mm) - hopefully I have some dome headed M8 bolts (12mm long) arriving today and will take some photos once I've had a play.

(* I suppose it could be a different thread in the US)

The inside diameter of the rings at the ends of the CTECK leads are about 7/16"
CTEK sell a number of 'direct connector adaptor' leads with different ring sizes: 6.3mm, 8mm and 10mm. I think the 6.3mm (1/4 inch) ones come with the charger as standard, but I have just purchased an 8mm set so that the ring will fit over the M8 bolt that I intend to insert into the +ve terminal.

I'm guessing that the negative post is screwed down on a bolt or stud of the same size.
It's smaller - an M6 (6mm) thread I think. Hence my CTEK 8mm ring will have a little 'play' until tightened fully on the -ve terminal.

Apologies for the metric units - that's how we're supposed to think over here! ?
 

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Apologies for the metric units - that's how we're supposed to think over here! ?
No problem. That helps. I normally go through my bin of machine bolts till I find one that (hopefully) fits. Not very scientific.
 

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Guy88 is correct-- the positive post's thread is an M8 x 1.25-- very common. The negative post I believe is an M6 x 1.0- will confirm.

I simply ran 14 gauge (15 Amp) stranded wire which I had crimped on ring connectors from the posts and spliced/soldered in the common two-pin charger pigtail with a 7.5 amp fuse, which I slipped through a space under the left turn signal.

Tidied up with cable cover and zip ties.
 
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