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Apparently, M8x10 bolt is the right size for the positive terminal eyelet connection, but what's the proper metal type for this use? Stainless steel for tight fit without corrosion?

I tried my brand-new CTEK MXS 5.0 today, but my 2016 Macan S (June 2015 delivery) DOES automatically power off the cigarette lighter socket after 30 minutes. I did turn the key to acc mode (MFD shows 11.0V; battery low alert), plugged in the powered CTEK cig lighter adapter, then turned off the car. I just got the 32K mi / 4yr service (garage queen), so I'll need to wait another year to have dealer code disable the auto-shutoff...

I'm using alligator clamps for now.

2 tidbits:
Some people mentioned auto-shutoff at either 15 or 30 minutes, but my 2016 cig lighter socket was powered at 16 minutes.
After turning off the car (from on or acc mode), you have to open/close the DRIVER door to power off dash and brake lights. If you exit via passenger door, car will not shut off, leaving dashboard and brake lights on (for 30 minutes, I assume).


Yorker I’m new to this charging thread having just purchased a 2017 Macan. I’m not clear on what you are referring to about the M8x10 bolt. Are you referring to an attachment to the charging posts under the hood? I was wondering if there is a way to attach Cteck pigtails to these posts other than just using the alligator clips. Thanks
 

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Yorker I’m new to this charging thread having just purchased a 2017 Macan. I’m not clear on what you are referring to about the M8x10 bolt. Are you referring to an attachment to the charging posts under the hood? I was wondering if there is a way to attach Cteck pigtails to these posts other than just using the alligator clips. Thanks
The positive terminal where you would clamp red is female-threaded to take a hex bolt, so you can attach positive eyelet in between. The Macan positive terminal cover doesn't fit with the bolt head, so I used wide painter tape and black gorilla tape to cover.

The negative terminal already has a bolt (different type) you can loosen with a wrench, then attach the negative eyelet.

I got this from Home Depot (2 pack, but you only need 1). It's longer than needed, but fits fine and zinc coated to reduce corrosion.

No more clamp!
 

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The positive terminal where you would clamp red is female-threaded to take a hex bolt, so you can attach positive eyelet in between. The Macan positive terminal cover doesn't fit with the bolt head, so I used wide painter tape and black gorilla tape to cover.

The negative terminal already has a bolt (different type) you can loosen with a wrench, then attach the negative eyelet.

I got this from Home Depot (2 pack, but you only need 1). It's longer than needed, but fits fine and zinc coated to reduce corrosion.

No more clamp!
Yorker, thanks for that info. When I looked at the positive post (actually took a picture to get a good view) it looked like the post may be threaded straight through and is just screwed on a strut or bolt. If that's the case, I was thinking of buying a spare post and grinding the bottom down a little so that the cover would fit with a pigtail attached to the top. seems like post is an 1 1/2"-2" long which should be plenty to grind off the thickness of a bolt head and pigtail ring. Other option would be to attach something directly to the battery which requires removing the subwoofer. My preference is just what requires less work. to get a neat installation.
 

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Good idea that probably works. But there is a way (posted here on MF some time ago) to connect CTEK leads to the under hood jump start terminals & tuck weather proof wires out of site near windshield wipers. Easy access.
 

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Hi all, this is my first post. I'm a new owner of a CPO 2016 Macan S. This is my first Porsche. After reading through most of this thread, I’m still not entirely clear on battery maintenance.

I have a Optima Battery Charger (their 400 Digital series) that I use for my other cars. It just plugs into a standard wall outlet for input and the output are the positive and negative terminals for the battery post.

I should be ok doing the exact same thing with the Macan S, right?
Thanks.
 

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Hi all, this is my first post. I'm a new owner of a CPO 2016 Macan S. This is my first Porsche. After reading through most of this thread, I’m still not entirely clear on battery maintenance.

I have a Optima Battery Charger (their 400 Digital series) that I use for my other cars. It just plugs into a standard wall outlet for input and the output are the positive and negative terminals for the battery post.

I should be ok doing the exact same thing with the Macan S, right?
Thanks.
As a new owner myself I have recently been through this learning process. If only it was so simple. Keep in mind that your battery is an AGM battery and not all chargers are designse for AGM batteries.

As far as attachment points, basically there are three options. 1.If you want to connect directly to the battery (which is located below the spare tire) you will need to remove the subwoofer which is above the battery and charge using alligator clamps. If you want to attach permanent pig tail leads you may need to change the typical ring leads to U-type leads as the battery post clamps are not designed to fully unscrewed. 2. Use the jump posts under the hood with alligator clamps You may not be able to close the hood depending on the size of the clamps and how they can be attached. The negative post is horizontal so not a problem but the positive post is vertical and the clamps may prevent the hood from closing. Again pigtails for a battery tender can be attached. I have been thinking about the cleanest way to do it and still be able to have the cover for the positive post attached. Have an idea but have not tried to execute it yet. Need to buy a new positive post to be modified. 3. Use a cigarette / 12v plug adapter on a battery charger using one of the several 12v plug outlets. Complicating this method is the issue of keeping the 12v plug socket hot as they cycle off after a period of time when the car is turned off. I'm currently using this method with the socket in the trunk on the driver's side. Once the charger is plugged in turning the ignition key on with out starting then back off seems to keep the socket hot.

If you charger doesn’t do AGM batteries, no need to get the $200+ Porsche charger. You can get a CTEK charger for less than $75. CTEK makes the rebranded Porsche charger.

Simple right? Good luck.
 
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Would it be logical to think that battery drain could be less when the car is locked and in a kind of "deep sleep" mode. Looks like some cars go into a minimal current drain some time after locking...
 

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I was told (by the dealer) to always lock it... yes, reduces the drain

Also - get the key a looong way away...
it talks to the car and won't let it sleep.

The other day I went out to wash my car... the key was inside the house....30 yds maybe
It started and I drove to the barn for washing

I was stranded there w/o my key....
That key has a looong range !!
 

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It obvious that this is a problem ranging from people using chargers insufficiently size to the battery, for example the CTEK 3300, to not understanding how to get the car to charge from the cigarette lighter, to what seems like very long charging times, a day or more?

Do we need a step by step description of how to charge the car with a CTEK?

Opinions on this?
 

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It obvious that this is a problem ranging from people using chargers insufficiently size to the battery, for example the CTEK 3300, to not understanding how to get the car to charge from the cigarette lighter, to what seems like very long charging times, a day or more?

Do we need a step by step description of how to charge the car with a CTEK?

Opinions on this?
It’s not inherently difficult but there are unexpectedly more obstacles or steps that need to taken that are not required when trickle charging most makes of vehicles. Tracking down this info can be a little tough for new Porsche Macan owners. It was for me anyway. It might be worth laying out the options in a fixed or ”sticky” post for new owners.

For the benefit of the new owner who asked, I tried to lay out what I found to be the three potential options for trickle charging in post #247. Maybe there are more options but it’s what I found to date. Feel free to plagiarize.
 

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It obvious that this is a problem ranging from people using chargers insufficiently size to the battery, for example the CTEK 3300, to not understanding how to get the car to charge from the cigarette lighter, to what seems like very long charging times, a day or more?

Do we need a step by step description of how to charge the car with a CTEK?

Opinions on this?
My vote is yes, for a sticky with full details, and covering different chargers.

FWIW, as an added data point, yada yada, I have two PulseTech Xtreme XC-100 smart chargers (XC100-P Xtreme Charge 12V Battery Maintenance Charger Desulfator), mostly used for motorcycles and a riding lawn mower.

In pre-Macan times, once a year or so, when our Camry wasn't going to be used for a couple of days, I'd throw the PulseTech on it. Despite the Camry's being a daily driver (and we did at least one, possibly two, battery replacements over a decade), the PulseTech would take at least overnight to pronounce it fit, i.e., get to its 100% light.

My point here is that depending on what the charger is doing -- allegedly desulfating and so forth -- even with a good battery, and even on a daily driver, these smart chargers may take a long time to satisfy themselves. I think this may be the case, regardless of how much current they put out, i.e., I think the time involved is more dependent on what sort of exercise they're putting the battery through.
 

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As a new owner myself I have recently been through this learning process. If only it was so simple. Keep in mind that your battery is an AGM battery and not all chargers are designse for AGM batteries.

As far as attachment points, basically there are three options. 1.If you want to connect directly to the battery (which is located below the spare tire) you will need to remove the subwoofer which is above the battery and charge using alligator clamps. If you want to attach permanent pig tail leads you may need to change the typical ring leads to U-type leads as the battery post clamps are not designed to fully unscrewed. 2. Use the jump posts under the hood with alligator clamps You may not be able to close the hood depending on the size of the clamps and how they can be attached. The negative post is horizontal so not a problem but the positive post is vertical and the clamps may prevent the hood from closing. Again pigtails for a battery tender can be attached. I have been thinking about the cleanest way to do it and still be able to have the cover for the positive post attached. Have an idea but have not tried to execute it yet. Need to buy a new positive post to be modified. 3. Use a cigarette / 12v plug adapter on a battery charger using one of the several 12v plug outlets. Complicating this method is the issue of keeping the 12v plug socket hot as they cycle off after a period of time when the car is turned off. I'm currently using this method with the socket in the trunk on the driver's side. Once the charger is plugged in turning the ignition key on with out starting then back off seems to keep the socket hot.

If you charger doesn’t do AGM batteries, no need to get the $200+ Porsche charger. You can get a CTEK charger for less than $75. CTEK makes the rebranded Porsche charger.

Simple right? Good luck.
A useful post thanks!

One correction - you don't need to remove the subwoofer to access the battery terminals, only to remove it. Here's a photo showing the sub in place:

IMG_1626.JPG

You do have to remove the spare wheel though, if you have one!

I have just purchased a CTEK 8mm direct connection adapter that I am hoping to leave permanently wired to the terminals under the bonnet (hood). I am hoping that these screws will enable me to attach the adapter to the positive terminal and leave room to replace the cover: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Button-Stainless-Socket-Screws-Delivery/dp/B00I2W1RNW

I did try charging using the cigarette lighter socket on the centre console, but found that even the slightest disturbance of the CTEK extension/connection leads was enough for the charger to lose its continuity and signal loss of connection. Despite following the agreed connection sequence, one time it even lost connection and then discharged my battery!
 

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A useful post thanks!

One correction - you don't need to remove the subwoofer to access the battery terminals, only to remove it. Here's a photo showing the sub in place:

View attachment 228769

You do have to remove the spare wheel though, if you have one!

I have just purchased a CTEK 8mm direct connection adapter that I am hoping to leave permanently wired to the terminals under the bonnet (hood). I am hoping that these screws will enable me to attach the adapter to the positive terminal and leave room to replace the cover: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Button-Stainless-Socket-Screws-Delivery/dp/B00I2W1RNW

I did try charging using the cigarette lighter socket on the centre console, but found that even the slightest disturbance of the CTEK extension/connection leads was enough for the charger to lose its continuity and signal loss of connection. Despite following the agreed connection sequence, one time it even lost connection and then discharged my battery!
Thanks Guy that should make the battery terminals an easier option for pig tail leads. I was watching a YouTube video on battery removal and I guess I thought it looked like terminals were toward the rear under the subwoofer. Is there another option for attaching a "ring" connection lead other than the terminal clamp. The video I was watching indicated that if the clamp bolt was fully unscrewed it would ruin the threads of the bolt through the clamp.

Because of the issue with the battery clamp I was leaning toward attaching leads to the jumper posts under the hood (bonnet) So that its fits under the positive terminal cover I was thinking of either using a hex head bolt to attach a ring lead but grinding down the head down a little to allow for the cover. Another option would be to get another jumper post but grinding down the bottom a little so that it screws down lower allowing for attachment of the lead with a screw as you indicated. Its only a $4.00 part here in the US Part # 955 611 206 00. The part looks like it is just a threaded hollow post.
 

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I didn't see another option for a ring connection. From my other battery photos there's nothing else on the negative terminal, and I didn't actually lift the plastic cover to investigate the positive. It therefore looks like a U-clamp would be the safest option (or modification of the CTEK ring connectors with some snips.)

I didn't actually unscrew the under-bonnet positive terminal - mainly because its a strange octagonal nut (rather than the usual hexagonal) and I didn't have a suitable socket. If my bolts work (when they arrive) I'll probably stick with that - I ordered 12mm long bolts as I estimate there's approx 15mm of depth in the positive terminal. I'll post a couple of photos when I have done it.

Here's the octagonal terminal (must be a UK thing) - what's also strange that it's a different thread size to the negative terminal!

IMG_3668.jpg
 

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My vote is yes, for a sticky with full details, and covering different chargers.

FWIW, as an added data point, yada yada, I have two PulseTech Xtreme XC-100 smart chargers (XC100-P Xtreme Charge 12V Battery Maintenance Charger Desulfator), mostly used for motorcycles and a riding lawn mower.

In pre-Macan times, once a year or so, when our Camry wasn't going to be used for a couple of days, I'd throw the PulseTech on it. Despite the Camry's being a daily driver (and we did at least one, possibly two, battery replacements over a decade), the PulseTech would take at least overnight to pronounce it fit, i.e., get to its 100% light.

My point here is that depending on what the charger is doing -- allegedly desulfating and so forth -- even with a good battery, and even on a daily driver, these smart chargers may take a long time to satisfy themselves. I think this may be the case, regardless of how much current they put out, i.e., I think the time involved is more dependent on what sort of exercise they're putting the battery through.
OK, I will take care of it for CTEK. Any other kind, just add to the thread I'll start.
 

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I just connected a harness straight to the positive & negative terminals up front. Used 8mm stainless button head hex for the positive & put the negative terminal under the earth connection. Harness comes out through the windscreen washer hole. I used Deustch 2 pin connector for the harness & have a blanking connector when not on the charger.
No problems charging & very practical. I use CTEK MXS 5.0
. 20200222_085354.jpg 20200222_085406.jpg 20200222_085413.jpg 20200222_085511.jpg 20200222_085634.jpg 20200222_085822.jpg
 

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I just connected a harness straight to the positive & negative terminals up front. Used 8mm stainless button head hex for the positive & put the negative terminal under the earth connection. Harness comes out through the windscreen washer hole. I used Deustch 2 pin connector for the harness & have a blanking connector when not on the charger.
No problems charging & very practical. I use CTEK MXS 5.0
Good idea to trim the edge of the (low cost) battery terminal cover so that it will sit flush. Interesting to see that your terminal cover has a rubber retaining strap - my 2015 Macan doesn't.
 
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