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A nice idea with its own pros and cons which you have described.
In case s.o. decides to go that way: After pulling out the relay, one could measure the idle current (across the relay socket's switch pins) with nothing connected to the sockets and USB-ports to judge if OK. <10mA should be OK to keep the sockets always on. The other Macan's idle currents (the lower ones, e.g. from the alarm system) should be higher, so this add-on current is not world-shaking...


Independent of the above, there is another interesting point in charging the Macan with the CTEK
It's speed of charging.
When I bought my 5A CTEK, I asked them whether it is possible to connect 2 of their extension cables to reach the jump start posts (in my case).
I interpreted their answer in a way that it is possible in principle, but not recommended or even tested. After a while I found out the reason for this, which is the transition point where the CTEK switches from "bulk" to "absorption" mode (this is at ~14.4V for AGM batteries, also depending on temperature, measured at the CTEK connector). Whereas the bulk mode charges with full current, in the absoption mode the charging current declines until ~14.7V are reached. So the longer you stay in bulk mode, the faster charging is done. This transition depends not only on the extension cable resistance, i.e. the voltage drop across the cables, but also on the internal wiring resistance in the Macan (e.g. from the cigarette socket to the battery). The higher the voltage drop, the faster the CTEK ends the fast bulk charging mode and goes into slow absorption mode.

After I used the CTEK some few times, it was very cold so the CTEK charging connector was quite stiff and I didn't fully lock it into its counterpart. That resulted in internally melting down both connectors during charging. Ok, my fault, no guarantee, so I'd exchanged the burned connectors to AMP Fast-On ones, which actually enabled the above measurements.
Since then I am using a soft super-fine stranded 4mm² loudspeaker cable as extension cable to the CTEK car adapter. Even with this, the voltage drop is ~0.7V in bulk mode charging. This means the full 5A bulk charging phase ends already 0.7V below 14.4V = ~13.7V (when the battery still could absorb much more energy at full current), then the current declines (and also proportionally that voltage drop) until the battery is full at some point.

Therefore my advice is to keep the original charging cables as short as possible for quick charging. Rather extend the CTEK's mains connection than extending the charger cables, plus it could be less fast through the cigarette sockets compared to directly connecting the Macan's battery or use the jump start posts (which has to be proven, but of course final charge state will be achieved sometime).
 
In case s.o. decides to go that way: After pulling out the relay, one could measure the idle current (across the relay socket's switch pins) with nothing connected to the sockets and USB-ports to judge if OK. <10mA should be OK to keep the sockets always on. The other Macan's idle currents (the lower ones, e.g. from the alarm system) should be higher, so this add-on current is not world-shaking...


Independent of the above, there is another interesting point in charging the Macan with the CTEK
It's speed of charging.
When I bought my 5A CTEK, I asked them whether it is possible to connect 2 of their extension cables to reach the jump start posts (in my case).
I interpreted their answer in a way that it is possible in principle, but not recommended or even tested. After a while I found out the reason for this, which is the transition point where the CTEK switches from "bulk" to "absorption" mode (this is at ~14.4V for AGM batteries, also depending on temperature, measured at the CTEK connector). Whereas the bulk mode charges with full current, in the absoption mode the charging current declines until ~14.7V are reached. So the longer you stay in bulk mode, the faster charging is done. This transition depends not only on the extension cable resistance, i.e. the voltage drop across the cables, but also on the internal wiring resistance in the Macan (e.g. from the cigarette socket to the battery). The higher the voltage drop, the faster the CTEK ends the fast bulk charging mode and goes into slow absorption mode.

After I used the CTEK some few times, it was very cold so the CTEK charging connector was quite stiff and I didn't fully lock it into its counterpart. That resulted in internally melting down both connectors during charging. Ok, my fault, no guarantee, so I'd exchanged the burned connectors to AMP Fast-On ones, which actually enabled the above measurements.
Since then I am using a soft super-fine stranded 4mm² loudspeaker cable as extension cable to the CTEK car adapter. Even with this, the voltage drop is ~0.7V in bulk mode charging. This means the full 5A bulk charging phase ends already 0.7V below 14.4V = ~13.7V (when the battery still could absorb much more energy at full current), then the current declines (and also proportionally that voltage drop) until the battery is full at some point.

Therefore my advice is to keep the original charging cables as short as possible for quick charging. Rather extend the CTEK's mains connection than extending the charger cables, plus it could be less fast through the cigarette sockets compared to directly connecting the Macan's battery or use the jump start posts (which has to be proven, but of course final charge state will be achieved sometime).
You have made some excellent points. I was aware of the issue of extending the charging cable, but more from the aspect of simple voltage drop on small cables. I had not thought of the impact on the charging phases and hence, charging speed. As it turns out, because I usually keep the car on the charger whenever it is parked at home, this issue does not really affect me, but it definitely would if someone is in a hurry and if their battery is really discharged and they are using a long cable.
 
I am a new Macan owner -- 2024 Base model. I have missed all the previous threads on charging the battery through the cigarette lighter outlet. Can the newer model Macans be charged this way? My 2019 718 Boxster S charged perfectly well through the outlet. I have a Porsche "Charge-O-Mat" trickle charger (for lead-acid batteries 1.2-120 Ah).
 
Finally installed the MagCode Pro charging/sourcing connector to my Macan T. The unused air intakes of the 2.0 engine are ideal to reach from both sides.

Fortunately the hole came out precisely. Glued (water soluble) a printed paper template (.ppt) on the plactic cover for drilling and filing the catch. Turned out to be very effective to achieve a quarter right-angled offset for symmetrical bayonet closure.
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The mounted MagCode socket. Lots of space behind, took the boost pressure sensor out to reach the inside by hand. Sealed with a Butyl string applied on the MagCode washer and pressed into gaps with by tightening the nut.
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Homemade 2.5mm² wiring harness and click-on fuse holder (15A) in the back of the jump start post's cover. Grounded on an unused ground post on top of the left wing area. Screwed the hot wire on top of a used threaded post next to the jump start post. No need to disconnect the battery or other leads.
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With connected bayonet MagCode Pro plug and 7m of super fine stranded 4mm² cable to the CTEK on the rear wall.
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Looks like around 0.1 Ohms total from the CTEK connector to the jump start posts according to voltage drop.
 
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It would be better if we had better data and more data to evaluate. You are correct, some people have reported problems using a power socket for long term charging. I am concerned that we do not really know why. There are a few possibilities that could explain this while still allowing for my theory to be true at the same time. e.g.
  • charger not set up to charge properly by making the connection while the ignition is on or within 30 minutes of an ignition shut down. i.e. charger is connected and on BUT no upper level LED is lit. This is an easy mistake to make on a CTEK charger or any charger.
  • plug in connection coming loose. Although, simply plugging it back it should get charging / maintaining again work. I need to test this as I have only tried unplugging power to the charger while it is still plugged into the socket.
  • different charger designs, cars, regions etc - variables that may cause the system to work differently

Given your apparent expertise and involvement with the subject, i invite you to do the same test I did. Get everything plugged in and working, lock the car, then remove power to the charger for 2 hours or more. Re-apply power and see if the charger resumes charging with the socket connection in tact.

I extend this invitation to others too. It would be interesting to see what results others obtain.
After I had installed a DIN power socket in the trunk of my Fiat500c for charging its lightweight (-9Kg less on the front axle, compared to AGM!) battery and an electric tire pump, etc., I also ordered some newly developed configurable cigarette/DIN plugs, basically fitting in any car outlet (quite well!).

So I hooked up the Macan's hidden cigarette lighter socket and tried out several things regarding its power status.

Interesting findings are:

- A locked or unlocked Macan T didn't have an influence, neither door opening or closing during the 30mins phase.

- It looks that a ONCE connected OPERATING charger let's the socket relay keep power on for more than 30mins (after ignition off, tested >1 hour), probably permanently, until the ignition is turned on again and afterwards NO significant charging takes place for >30mins. The socket relay is also only released (switched off) when the battery voltage is below 12.9V after ignition on/off, detected 30mins later!

- The charging hookup (cigarette lighter/trunk sockets or jump start/battery terminals) makes no difference keeping the sockets relay supplying power to the sockets, even if nothing is connected to them!


...and that means, a ONCE connected charger within the first 30mins after ignition off, will keep the Macans power sockets on, even after the charger had been disconnected. Considering the power consumption of the socket relay itself plus electronics (eventually associated rear USB-charging outlets) leaves an additional significant idle load to the battery, draining it significantly faster than expected.


This could have been the reason why my battery was almost down after 2 weeks absence. I did charge charge the Macan directly before leaving and then removed the charger. Probably the socket relay electronics was on for the whole time and additionally drained the battery.


My 2 cents for longer parking periods is therefore,

- to keep a charger connected for the whole time

or

- do a one-time battery charge AFTER 30mins of ignition off (which wouldn't work on the sockets, which is some kind of deadlock!), then remove the charger to obtain minimum idle drain.
 
...and more regarding charging the Macan:

I was tired of hooking up a DVM all the time to the MagCode connector to analyze what the battery charge state was.
So I installed this BT DVM module (BatteryGuard) with Smartphone App right to the battery poles. It lets you check voltages and other stuff from the distance, even from the parked car in garage into the building (<10m but brick walls). The inner case of this module is even IP67 protected and operates from -30 to 80°C. Drilling two holes for small zippers into the outer honeycombed structure and 4 according ones into the battery case cover fixes the module properly and provides an astonishingly good BT radio connection from the subfloor trunk.
Btw., the current consumption of the module is on average a negligible 1 to 2 mA, price about 22€...

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Below is the App view. I am using the German vendors App version, so the GUI is in German, but there are other vendors with other language support for sure (probably always the same SW and HW from China, but vendor specific adapted)

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The real interesting thing I found out regarding keeping the battery in a healthy state is watching out for long periods, where the battery idle! voltage drops below 12.4V (Varta recommended limit, my preferred one because of the Macan idle load dropping the ideal battery idle voltage a bit) or 12.5V (Banner).
The measurement above was taken directly after moving the car in the garage twice incl. locking and unlocking, so the displayed voltage is not the final idle voltage after recovery, typ. reached some 3h after leaving the car alone. Also one can immediately see when the car electronics is activated over the internet, e.g. when using the My Porsche App via CarConnect, the idle voltage drops immediately by a quarter Volt or so for some minutes.

This way one can judge whenever it is really necessary to hook up a charger to Macan to obtain max. battery life without doing it every time.
 
After all, I think I made a big advance now in keeping the Macan battery properly charged.

Since my wife and myself (together w wife) are driving mostly in Normal Drive Mode, there is always this regularly implemented Micro Hybrid function active (but not in Sport/Sport+ modes).
One part of it is the Start/Stop function, which can be disabled by activating the Start/Stop button memory function (was originally not activated in my German Macan build),
the other, more important function, is regenerative battery charging while braking (Rekuperation).
This seems responsible for keeping the battery idle voltage (or charge level; ~12.5V-12.6V) quite low, sometimes this leads to the battery falling below the recommended operating voltage (>12.4-12.5V).
This leaves almost no extra capacity for long time parking (e.g. at airports), frequent opening and closing the Macan or wireless Car-Connect and automatic map upgrades (while not starting the Macan).
To overcome the poor battery charge level in Normal Driving Mode usage scenarios, it is possible to deactivate the Rekuperation function, hosted in the Macan's Gateway module, by disabling the REK functions.
After a few days testing, the battery idle voltage now remains around healthy 12.9V or 100% SoC, which gives a nice capacity margin for various situations, avoids extra re-charging and even preserves generator and poly-V belt.
 
I'm seeking informed opinions about trickle charging my 2022 Macan S. It often sits for 1 to 3 weeks at a time so I usually put an AGM compatible trickle charger on it every 7 to 10 days to keep it topped off. The trickle charger often will take 2+ days to fully charge it. Am I extending the life of the battery or doing any harm?
Thanks for your input
 
I just changed my 2017 Macan OEM battery which said it had 26% health left when I tested it… looking for recommendations for the best battery charger to get this original battery back to a better life? I did install a brand new OEM battery… I’m looking at the Dewalt 30amp battery charger??? what’s the best CTEK for 105amp Macan Battery???
 
I've heard competing perspectives that you can/cannot charge your Macan AGM battery via the 12v socket in the car. People told me it would shut off after 30 minutes. Well, I'm here to say it's working like a charm. (The dealer didn't charge the battery before I picked up the new car last week, which was rather surprising). I found that one dealership where I went for a test drive was using the same NOCO charger for their showroom Macan. I talked to the SA and he said they use it all the time and I dont need to bother with the Porsche/CTEC if I already have a NOCO Genius (or equivalent). Using the 12v inside the cabin is the most convenient for me, rather than the terminals in the engine bay or directly wiring to the battery.

If I've done something wrong, somebody, please correct me.

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If you follow the correct procedure for eating exiting the vehicle and hooking up the charger it will not shut off. Most people do it incorrectly.
 
Do you charge your Macan battery at all? What’s your process? I’m just interested to hear what people are doing to preserve their battery.
Because it is very convenient for me to do so I always keep the battery plugged into a CTEK MUS 7002. I have my charger mounted to the wall of my garage near the rear hatch and I plug in there and simply leave the hatch open. I could close it with the wire not affecting the weather stripping much, but I do not bother.

Something really interesting I read on the forum is that the Macan does not keep the battery optimally charged, instead, letting it discharge some while driving, to allow for regenerative charging to take place during braking. I was always surprised to see how long it took to recharge a very healthy battery and that explanation makes sense to me. The poster was very buttoned up and had measurements to back up his conclusion - not speculation.

When the battery is charged as I keep it, MFD voltage only drops for a short time before settling in in the mid 13v range, which I have come to see as the system voltage (not battery voltage) when using a perfectly fully charged battery when not braking and not in cold weather.
 
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