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Charging the Macan

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184K views 1.1K replies 103 participants last post by  JoeInBucks  
#1 ·
Caveat: The following is information only. Caveat Emptor. These products are not Porsche official products and your use is on you. What has worked for me, and the risks I take, might not work for you. The following is, in good faith, correct to my knowledge. If anything is wrong, say so and lets correct it. I’ve used a CTEK faithfully for almost 12 years, using it hundreds of times. They work. Most of this comes from experience, some gathered from info within the forum and there's too many people to credit or find who said what, from their trial and error, so I'd attribute it to the entire forum.

There are many threads on charging the battery or general battery information. Here are some:

New Battery what battery maintainer to buy
Replacing the Battery
Battery tender takes Forever
Are 12V outlets on late '15's coded to accept trickle chargers?

I’m going to try to give step-by-step directions on how to charge a Macan with a CTEK smart charger. CTEKs seem to be the de facto, go to smart charger for Porsches, for maybe a decade. AFAIK, Porsche chargers are rebranded CTEKs. This does not mean you can’t use anything else, but rather its what I know. YMMV. Try anything at your own risk. Feel free to add how to use any other charger to the thread. Here is the North American website for CTEK.

If you care about warranty, there are authorized dealers and CTEK specifically warns you against using unauthorized dealers. There are many versions of the CTEK but for general purposes, lets focus solely on what should work. Ignore the .8, 3.3, and 25 Amp versions and focus on the 4.3 and 7 Amp versions. There is also a 4.3 Amp polar version good to -22F. Otherwise, they are good to -4F. The versions have evolved to now the user interface shows 8 lights or there is the CT5 version that gives the number of hours left to finish charging. The 3300 does not have the capacity to charge the 92AH Macan Battery topping at 90 AH. The 4.3 Amp versions are good to 110 AH and the 7 amp version much higher. The 7 Amp will also provide constant power to the car while the others 4.3 will not. These are not Jump Packs. If you need a jump pack, then there are many small lithium versions or larger AGM battery jump packs like the Clore Jump N Carry. These units should not overcharge a battery. This isn't your grandpa's trickle charger. For a good overview of what is going on watch:


Like many others, I discovered the hard way that if you don’t drive modern Porsches every day, the battery dies. It’s as simple as this. I know I was pretty upset. My sports car was two years old and stranded with a dead battery. I had to call AAA for a jump and visit the dealer for a new battery. That was so much fun. :rolleyes: Porsche warns you to use a battery maintainer under certain circumstances. For example, from the New Car Limited Warranty & Customer Information Model Year 2019

"Your Responsibility for Normal Vehicle Use .
.. A battery maintainer is available at your local authorized Porsche dealer. It must be used to maintain your vehicle’s battery state of charge if your vehicle will not be used for several days.)"
“must be used”. It goes on to talk about 6,000 miles per rolling year. That’s about 16 miles/day. And so I learned that whatever I knew about other cars, no longer applied and no amount of being upset about it would matter. If a Porsche isn’t driven in a week, I plug it in to top off the battery. In the winter with colder temperatures outside, I might do it more often. I have used the 4.3 on the old style battery and the AGM. I do not think you are supposed to use the recondition mode on AGM. I have used it on the non-AGM battery and it worked. The 5 Amp version does have a recondition mode for AGM. I only use the snowflake mode on the AGM batteries. I’ve also used the tiny battery option on the 4.3 to charge a small motorcycle size battery used in a generator. It worked fine and it wasn’t on snowflake mode. In the following, Jay is holding up a 4.3. If its good enough for Jay, its good enough for me.


Determine whatever size meets your needs. I settled on the 4.3 because at the time I bought it, the 3300 did not have the 8 lights and the 7 Amp seemed like overkill. There are many accessories for CTEKs. You can see them all on their website.

I've found the 8’ extension valuable.


I find the rubber bumper a must have. Who wants to accidentally bang a metal box against the body work? CTEK Bumper 56-915

This is the cigarette lighter adapter


Eyelets. Caution, there are different sizes

The units might be splashproof but I doubt they are waterproof. If you use this outside, I would be wary of rain, ice, sleet, snow, or any precipitation.

How to connect the unit:

In the sports cars, the eyelet connectors can be directly connected to the battery permanently. The eyelet connector cap has an o-ring sealed from weather. It can be snaked through the windshield wipers opening, put a baggie on top for extra protection and then the car charged without opening anything. Unfortunately, the Macan battery is in the worst possible place I can image for ease of access, buried under the hatch floor, under the spare. Who is going to try to get to that in a snowstorm to jump the car? Watch around 2:30. There is no easy way to put the eyelets on because the connector does not unscrew.


@JoeInBucks mentions making some other kind of U connector but anything made is a jury rig. This was not designed to add anything onto it. Then there is the problem of how to run the cord out. The eyelet accesory probably isn’t long enough so you’d need to use the extension cord and where does it lie? Many people use a SUV as a SUV and throw all kinds of stuff in the hatch, probably not paying attention to where things land. I’d end up damaging the cord. I consider this a non-starter. This brings us to the connections under the hood for jump starting.

You can connect to the terminals under the hood, with the alligator clips and it does work. In order to close the hood, the clip has to lie nearly flat.

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The positive terminal is a tight fit to the bolt

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I’ve seen Macans in dealerships charging this way. But, that’s in a showroom with the hood up. The upside to this method is that if the power goes out, then the CTEK should restart from the beginning, quickly going through the 8 steps to the point it left off. However, if it were in pulse mode, I’d expect it would wait 10 days before going back to pulse mode.

There are two downsides. First, constantly opening and closing the hood is an aggravation. The hood release feels like a cheap piece of plastic that could break one day. The hood is huge and you need to get the clips to lay flat if closing the hood. Second, the moment you open the hood, then close it, you cannot get an oil level reading until you drive maybe 10 miles or so. YMMV. The downsides to this seem to outweigh the positive. Unless fear of a power outage is real, I do not see this as a reasonable solution with the alligator clips.

The last way to charge is via the cigarette lighter adapter. I don't know if the other outlets will work. Somewhere back around 2015, somebody mentioned that you could get the dealer to "code" the lighter to remain hot. I haven't seen this can happen recently. So this is under the assumption it shuts down after some short period of time.

Before going into the steps, there is one huge downside to all of this, and that's the user interface. It seems thats its mired in the mid-2000s while the world has moved on to "there's an app for that". By this I mean that I can sit somewhere else, BBQ some steaks, and know exactly the temperature of the pit and the internal temp of the steaks, remotely by looking at a tiny device or an app on a phone. I can turn lights on/off in the house from anywhere in the world. Yet, in order to see the status of these devices, one has to physically go to them and look at some lights. First world problems to be sure but IMO 10 year old technology. IMO, there should be an app for that, to include remote turning the unit on and off, as well as to know, reasonably close, the number of minutes left to finish charging. In 2008 this felt like magic, bringing a dead battery back to life. Today, the user interface, IMO, feels old. That's not criticism of the charging technology but my opinion that society has got me used to just looking at a phone, and getting an immediate answer.

Continued in the next post.
 
#949 ·
I just changed my 2017 Macan OEM battery which said it had 26% health left when I tested it… looking for recommendations for the best battery charger to get this original battery back to a better life? I did install a brand new OEM battery… I’m looking at the Dewalt 30amp battery charger??? what’s the best CTEK for 105amp Macan Battery???
 
#952 ·
I've heard competing perspectives that you can/cannot charge your Macan AGM battery via the 12v socket in the car. People told me it would shut off after 30 minutes. Well, I'm here to say it's working like a charm. (The dealer didn't charge the battery before I picked up the new car last week, which was rather surprising). I found that one dealership where I went for a test drive was using the same NOCO charger for their showroom Macan. I talked to the SA and he said they use it all the time and I dont need to bother with the Porsche/CTEC if I already have a NOCO Genius (or equivalent). Using the 12v inside the cabin is the most convenient for me, rather than the terminals in the engine bay or directly wiring to the battery.

If I've done something wrong, somebody, please correct me.

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#965 ·
Interesting. Mine is a 2016. They could very well have done away with the 30 minute disconnect in newer models. Porsche have never explained this functionality in any document I've seen. When I called them years ago to ask, they referred me to my dealer, which was a bad joke. Elbows up.
 
#972 ·
Using a NOCO Genius 5 along with NOCO GC003 X-Connect 12V Dual-Size Male Plug Accessory for NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers adapter, I'm able to charge the Macan without switching the ignition on. This is the same setup that a Porsche dealership had for one of their showroom Macan's.
Sorry to be so persistent on this.
Using your charger, did the white LED illuminate when charging after the 3 days of inactivity ? As you may know, without the white LED lit, the charger is not charging.
I am now wondering if it allows charging after any period of time, but not discharging after a certain period. It only makes sense for them to let it charge, no matter how long the car was shut off for.
 
#981 ·
The cig socket will shut off after 20 mins (I believe) this is a feature as things like dash cam and cabin ionizer (I have) would stop having power after that time. No parasitic draw on that socket anyways. It would only become active when you wake the car up, which you’ve discovered. There has been a lot of postings on this. Don’t quote me on this but I think it may actually keep charging after the set time if it’s plug in the back socket…not sure if in the front. I just use the one in the hood.
 
#987 ·
Yes if charging from that port, it doesn't shut off after 30 minutes. If it's already shut off, I've found you need to at least turn Ignition ON in order to 'wake up' the 12v port
The cig socket will shut off after 20 mins (I believe) this is a feature as things like dash cam and cabin ionizer (I have) would stop having power after that time. No parasitic draw on that socket anyways. It would only become active when you wake the car up, which you’ve discovered. There has been a lot of postings on this. Don’t quote me on this but I think it may actually keep charging after the set time if it’s plug in the back socket…not sure if in the front. I just use the one in the hood.

Several years back years I spent a fair amount of time in this thread and experimenting with techniques to keep the 12v outlet in the rear storage area connected while charging. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t. If you read all of the nearly 1,000 posts you will see that many had similar frustrating experiences. Because of the inconsistency I hard wired a CTEK pigtail to the battery under the spare tire in the rear storage area. The pigtail can either be tucked under the cover when not being used or left out when connected to a CTEK charger. Others hard wired to the front jump posts. (I was not a fan of this location because the exposure to weather). Whatever the location I wish I hardwired the pigtail sooner rather than later. It is crazy that such a basic thing like hooking up a trickle charger could generate a thousand posts but that’s the way it sometimes is with a Porsche.
 
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#988 · (Edited)
In eastern/northern Canada, there’s always a plug out in the grill for a block heater.

For charging, the one I’ve seen here that’s the most convenient is the magnetic type port. Mounted on the bumper itself if I recall right. My process is still opening the hood and connecting. It does get tiring.
 
#990 ·
In eastern/northern Canada, there’s always a plug out in the grill for a block heater.

For charging, the one I’ve seen here that’s the most convenient is the magnetic type port. Mounted on the bumper itself if I recall right. My process is still opening the hood and connecting. It does get tiring.
Many of the cars owned by my clients all utilize some type of magnetic attachment for the charger. Super convenient and very stock looking and they can be installed with basic tools. You just have to get over the fear of drilling a hole in the plastic bumper cover or wherever you decide to install it.
 
#992 ·
In eastern/northern Canada, there’s always a plug out in the grill for a block heater.

For charging, the one I’ve seen here that’s the most convenient is the magnetic type port. Mounted on the bumper itself if I recall right. My process is still opening the hood and connecting. It does get tiring.
One of the problems with using the jump posts under the hood for charging is that the hood was not designed for the number of opening and closing cycles as was the rear hatch. The other down side is that engine compartment is not totally water tight as is the rear storage area. A magnetic type port installed in the bumper will also be exposed to the weather, not to mention drilling an unnecessary hole in a very expensive part.
 
#995 ·
One of the problems with using the jump posts under the hood for charging is that the hood was not designed for the number of opening and closing cycles as was the rear hatch.
Do you have any support for that statement? Also, Porsche tells you to charge the battery if you don’t drive the car regularly (I’m paraphrasing) and they tell you to use the jump posts?
 
#996 ·
Do you have any support for that statement? Also, Porsche tells you to charge the battery if you don’t drive the car regularly (I’m paraphrasing) and they tell you to use the jump posts?
Just common sense and what you can feel when opening and closing the hood as opposed to the rear hatch. The average Macan owner or any car owner for the matter opens doors and / or the rear hatch many times more than the hood is opened. Heck, with the Macan you don't even need to open the hood to check the oil. Can't you feel the heft and sturdiness of the rear hatch as compared with the hood?
 
#1,053 ·
This looks an eyelet without an LED indicator (I don't want an LED indicator, as I don't want to add any parasitic draw) and without a fuse (which is dangerous), correct? I am asking in case you've found a version of an eyelet without an LED but with a fuse, in which case I'd love to hear where you found it. Ctek's website does not show any.
 
#1,004 ·
That seems like the easiest way without opening things up every time. I think the reason I’ve still not mounted mine like this is bec I don’t connect my charger every single time it’s in the garage. I top mine myb once or twice a month.

Makes total sense that a hood is not designed for REPEATED operations as much as a driver’s door …or a rear hatch. Just look at the hinges used.
 
#1,006 ·
Yes I does and you can see it on his 2nd photo.

but some people don’t feel secure that it would completely keep the water out. Not sure if those that have this setup are more careful with washing their cars in this area.

I’m thinking one can cut a finger off a nitrile glove and use that as a condom. Double the protection? For those that are more anal about.
 
#1,013 · (Edited)
Edit
 
#1,017 ·
If you are driving enough weekly mileage, after 5 years, the battery is probably not at the point where systems are being shut down due to aging and you would not notice anything. That does not mean that the battery has not lost some of its life (SOH). One way to tell is to watch the MFD Voltage display, which registers the electrical systems's voltage while running (not battery voltage) and see what it does after a start (not in cold weather). A really healthy battery that is fully charged will see a temporary drop in voltage after the start into the 12.x range and then increase into the 13.x range after a a minute to a few minutes. If the voltage increases up to the 14.x range it is being more heavily charged heavily to try to recharge. If it persists there for 15 or more minutes, or is always in the 14.x range, then your battery is not healthy. Not necessarily ready to change yet, but definitely aged and on your way to a new one.

Maintainers are for people who do not put enough miles on the car weekly -or- for those of us who want to extract the longest possible life out of the battery.
 
#1,025 ·
The battery is in the rear area under the floor so you can hook up a pigtail to the battery and route the plug end to an area just behind the bumper. Or, you can hook up a pigtail to the positive post in the engine compartment and route the pigtail to the area near the windshield wiper.
 
#1,042 ·
I don't see many people mentioning that they charge using the 12V outlet in the cargo hatch. I find it to be the easiest way by far and the most convenient. I have a CTEK MXS 5.0 and I purchased two accessories for it: the Comfort Connect Cig Plug and the Comfort Connect Extension 8 ft. Cable. The cable is flat so the hatch closes easily on it without exerting any pressure on the cable. Everytime I pull into the garage I plug it in and it works everytime.
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#1,056 ·
I ran the pigtail setup in Oregon for 4 years without issue, never tripped a fuse or caused any issue. With the cap and being tucked under the hood you aren't going to short it unless you submerge the vehicle in which case the battery will be underwater before the pigtail (unless you flip the car too) and in that case, you have other issues than a blown fuse.
 
#1,063 ·
Definitely, no LED indicator lights . However, the packaging is long gone.
 
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#1,064 ·
Bit of advice should you need to make a warranty claim: save your email purchase confirmation as proof of purchase. The warranty is only good for the original purchaser.
I think I purchased mine directly from the CTEK website and there was no receipt in box when it arrived.
The first one I bought only lasted 2 1/2 years so it’s been sent back with a request for CTEK to check its records for my initial purchase because I can’t find the purchase confirmation email. I think they can tell from the serial number that I’m the original owner 🤞🏻 They did respond quickly to my email regarding the problem with the first unit.
I bought a second 7002 while I wait to see how they handle the warranty claim.
Again, no receipt in the box. I’m saving the order confirmation this time.
Can you tell I really don’t want battery issues. Too many gremlins appear when the battery starts having issues.
 
#1,070 ·
This is exactly what I suspected all along and finally made measurements to prove it.
My MFD shows 11.6 V (engine off of course), measured under the hood at the terminals I got 11.93 and measured directly at the battery terminals I got 12.03 V. Those differences are substantial enough to totally fool my Topdon battery tester, while directly at the terminals it tells me I need to charge my battery (23% charge) but otherwise it is 66% healthy, the same test performed under the hood tells me I got a BAD battery, replace!!

You can almost add half a Volt to your MFD readout.

An old thread but I wanted to add my 2 cents.
If you think the 66% reading is accurate (I'd say no but, close to accurate & not worth trying to disconnect the battery to get 100% accurate reading)...your battery is on the way to fail. Some battery conductance testers use 70% SOH as the cut off. Some use 80%!

You may want to plan for a new battery & carry a JNC Jump starter (Or small Li-Ion one) in your Macan.

Hopefully, you can DIY the battery change when it is time. Many posts on how to DIY & also how to register the new battery.

If possible, you may want to fully charge your battery 1x/week with a CTEK to maximize the remaining life.
@olasec
Some of the CTEK models have a recondition mode. Maybe try that to extend the life of your battery. My 2017 Turbo only has about 65,000 miles on it and the battery always checks out fine when serviced. Does running the recondition mode help? IDK. My drives are either short or fairly long and I have the CTEK MSX hooked up most days.