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Charging the Macan

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184K views 1.1K replies 103 participants last post by  JoeInBucks  
#1 ·
Caveat: The following is information only. Caveat Emptor. These products are not Porsche official products and your use is on you. What has worked for me, and the risks I take, might not work for you. The following is, in good faith, correct to my knowledge. If anything is wrong, say so and lets correct it. I’ve used a CTEK faithfully for almost 12 years, using it hundreds of times. They work. Most of this comes from experience, some gathered from info within the forum and there's too many people to credit or find who said what, from their trial and error, so I'd attribute it to the entire forum.

There are many threads on charging the battery or general battery information. Here are some:

New Battery what battery maintainer to buy
Replacing the Battery
Battery tender takes Forever
Are 12V outlets on late '15's coded to accept trickle chargers?

I’m going to try to give step-by-step directions on how to charge a Macan with a CTEK smart charger. CTEKs seem to be the de facto, go to smart charger for Porsches, for maybe a decade. AFAIK, Porsche chargers are rebranded CTEKs. This does not mean you can’t use anything else, but rather its what I know. YMMV. Try anything at your own risk. Feel free to add how to use any other charger to the thread. Here is the North American website for CTEK.

If you care about warranty, there are authorized dealers and CTEK specifically warns you against using unauthorized dealers. There are many versions of the CTEK but for general purposes, lets focus solely on what should work. Ignore the .8, 3.3, and 25 Amp versions and focus on the 4.3 and 7 Amp versions. There is also a 4.3 Amp polar version good to -22F. Otherwise, they are good to -4F. The versions have evolved to now the user interface shows 8 lights or there is the CT5 version that gives the number of hours left to finish charging. The 3300 does not have the capacity to charge the 92AH Macan Battery topping at 90 AH. The 4.3 Amp versions are good to 110 AH and the 7 amp version much higher. The 7 Amp will also provide constant power to the car while the others 4.3 will not. These are not Jump Packs. If you need a jump pack, then there are many small lithium versions or larger AGM battery jump packs like the Clore Jump N Carry. These units should not overcharge a battery. This isn't your grandpa's trickle charger. For a good overview of what is going on watch:


Like many others, I discovered the hard way that if you don’t drive modern Porsches every day, the battery dies. It’s as simple as this. I know I was pretty upset. My sports car was two years old and stranded with a dead battery. I had to call AAA for a jump and visit the dealer for a new battery. That was so much fun. :rolleyes: Porsche warns you to use a battery maintainer under certain circumstances. For example, from the New Car Limited Warranty & Customer Information Model Year 2019

"Your Responsibility for Normal Vehicle Use .
.. A battery maintainer is available at your local authorized Porsche dealer. It must be used to maintain your vehicle’s battery state of charge if your vehicle will not be used for several days.)"
“must be used”. It goes on to talk about 6,000 miles per rolling year. That’s about 16 miles/day. And so I learned that whatever I knew about other cars, no longer applied and no amount of being upset about it would matter. If a Porsche isn’t driven in a week, I plug it in to top off the battery. In the winter with colder temperatures outside, I might do it more often. I have used the 4.3 on the old style battery and the AGM. I do not think you are supposed to use the recondition mode on AGM. I have used it on the non-AGM battery and it worked. The 5 Amp version does have a recondition mode for AGM. I only use the snowflake mode on the AGM batteries. I’ve also used the tiny battery option on the 4.3 to charge a small motorcycle size battery used in a generator. It worked fine and it wasn’t on snowflake mode. In the following, Jay is holding up a 4.3. If its good enough for Jay, its good enough for me.


Determine whatever size meets your needs. I settled on the 4.3 because at the time I bought it, the 3300 did not have the 8 lights and the 7 Amp seemed like overkill. There are many accessories for CTEKs. You can see them all on their website.

I've found the 8’ extension valuable.


I find the rubber bumper a must have. Who wants to accidentally bang a metal box against the body work? CTEK Bumper 56-915

This is the cigarette lighter adapter


Eyelets. Caution, there are different sizes

The units might be splashproof but I doubt they are waterproof. If you use this outside, I would be wary of rain, ice, sleet, snow, or any precipitation.

How to connect the unit:

In the sports cars, the eyelet connectors can be directly connected to the battery permanently. The eyelet connector cap has an o-ring sealed from weather. It can be snaked through the windshield wipers opening, put a baggie on top for extra protection and then the car charged without opening anything. Unfortunately, the Macan battery is in the worst possible place I can image for ease of access, buried under the hatch floor, under the spare. Who is going to try to get to that in a snowstorm to jump the car? Watch around 2:30. There is no easy way to put the eyelets on because the connector does not unscrew.


@JoeInBucks mentions making some other kind of U connector but anything made is a jury rig. This was not designed to add anything onto it. Then there is the problem of how to run the cord out. The eyelet accesory probably isn’t long enough so you’d need to use the extension cord and where does it lie? Many people use a SUV as a SUV and throw all kinds of stuff in the hatch, probably not paying attention to where things land. I’d end up damaging the cord. I consider this a non-starter. This brings us to the connections under the hood for jump starting.

You can connect to the terminals under the hood, with the alligator clips and it does work. In order to close the hood, the clip has to lie nearly flat.

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The positive terminal is a tight fit to the bolt

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I’ve seen Macans in dealerships charging this way. But, that’s in a showroom with the hood up. The upside to this method is that if the power goes out, then the CTEK should restart from the beginning, quickly going through the 8 steps to the point it left off. However, if it were in pulse mode, I’d expect it would wait 10 days before going back to pulse mode.

There are two downsides. First, constantly opening and closing the hood is an aggravation. The hood release feels like a cheap piece of plastic that could break one day. The hood is huge and you need to get the clips to lay flat if closing the hood. Second, the moment you open the hood, then close it, you cannot get an oil level reading until you drive maybe 10 miles or so. YMMV. The downsides to this seem to outweigh the positive. Unless fear of a power outage is real, I do not see this as a reasonable solution with the alligator clips.

The last way to charge is via the cigarette lighter adapter. I don't know if the other outlets will work. Somewhere back around 2015, somebody mentioned that you could get the dealer to "code" the lighter to remain hot. I haven't seen this can happen recently. So this is under the assumption it shuts down after some short period of time.

Before going into the steps, there is one huge downside to all of this, and that's the user interface. It seems thats its mired in the mid-2000s while the world has moved on to "there's an app for that". By this I mean that I can sit somewhere else, BBQ some steaks, and know exactly the temperature of the pit and the internal temp of the steaks, remotely by looking at a tiny device or an app on a phone. I can turn lights on/off in the house from anywhere in the world. Yet, in order to see the status of these devices, one has to physically go to them and look at some lights. First world problems to be sure but IMO 10 year old technology. IMO, there should be an app for that, to include remote turning the unit on and off, as well as to know, reasonably close, the number of minutes left to finish charging. In 2008 this felt like magic, bringing a dead battery back to life. Today, the user interface, IMO, feels old. That's not criticism of the charging technology but my opinion that society has got me used to just looking at a phone, and getting an immediate answer.

Continued in the next post.
 
#832 ·
I agree. We do not really know for sure, one way or another. It may not be uniform from one model year to another or one country to another. That said, testing one's own car is not difficult. Plug it up. Get it charging. Remove power for as long as would make you comfortable. Then plug it back in. See what happens. As written, for my own needs, it behaved well and I have not seen it fail here in the USA with a 2016 Macan Turbo.
 
#833 ·
I charge 1x/wk.

In order to get to driver door in my garage, I must duck under the cable. So, 0 chance I will drive off & forget the charger is connected.

For those who charge with the cable exiting the rear of the closed hatch or in some other way, where it's not immediately visible, I suggest doing something unusual, like draping a cloth over the steering wheel, that will remind you that the charger is connected before driving off.
 
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#840 ·
There is no way I would trust that plug to be water-tight in a location subject to weather. Even though the rubber cap on the end fits snugly, I see it more as a dust cap. I accept the small inconvenience of having it positioned under the hood. That’s just me 🤗
 
#842 ·
I hope you’re right David, but it would worry me.
 
#846 ·
Being exposed to the weather was the primary reason that I chose to install the CTEK pigtail directly to the battery under the rear storage area. I don’t think it takes any longer to attach it there, maybe less as the routing of the wire is easier. The second reason was because the rear storage hatch is designed for repeated openings, more so than the hood.
 
#851 ·
Wondering. What if I use a 1A charger as a maintenance. It’s just for keeping the battery in fully charge state right?
I do something similar to what you have proposed on a 92Ah AGM deep cycle battery I use for other purposes
Couple of things

  • Do not confuse Deep Cycle Batteries with starting batteries, they are different things
  • A CTEK 3330, i.e., the 3.3 AMP CTEK, AKA, the original Porsche Charge-O-Mat will NOT charge the Macan battery. People have tried it here and failed and the manual says it won't either. The CTEK .8 will not charge it (of course) but it could "maintain" it. Thats why what @mataa says above works on the deep cycle battery. It can maintain up to 100 AH but not charge it.
  • Dont use any other kind of old fashioned charger. Go watch the videos at the beginning of this thread. Do the research on exactly what a smart charger does. These batteries cost a lot. Its best to do your own research and learn.
 
#853 ·
My assumption is that if the charger says AGM then it would have the 14.7v charging level. No? For example the Noco 1A charger, if I’m not using the car for the rest of the week, the assumption is the car is not using more than 1A as parasitic.

I’m not suggesting, just discussing. For example I took the car on a 2hr drive. I’m guessing the battery is near full, so I just plug in the 1A Noco charger, the following morning it’s already at full charge.

Anything wrong with that?
 
#854 ·
My assumption is that if the charger says AGM then it would have the 14.7v charging level. No? For example the Noco 1A charger

Anything wrong with that?
Thats not how it works. Its the AH size that matters. And then read the ctek charging profile. Its not a constant 14.7

go to the noco website and read the specsheets

The 1 amp charges up to 30 AH batteries,
The 2 amp charges up to 40 AH batteries

Macan batteries are OEM 92 or 105 AH

The 5 amp charges up to 120 AH batteries, that will work.
 
#856 · (Edited)
Did some research regarding battery SoC when driving in normal mode. Very sparse information available, but the general mechanism which controls SoC when driving is called Micro-Hybrid operation. This includes S/S and braking energy recuperation via the alternator. According to s.o. claiming to know how it works for Skodas (another VAG brand), battery SoC is held around 70-80% of full charge and being recharged with up to 70A during deceleration, which is pretty hefty and would explain the occasional voltage reading of 15.3V at the MFD because of the cable resistance from alternator (front) to battery (rear) of around 10mOhms (~0.7V drop from front to rear, battery charged therefore @ ~14.6V).

...Anyway, it does not explain why my Macan battery SoC ranges only from 25-50% next morning...
 
#859 ·
A 25 to 50% SoC would worry me greatly under the conditions you describe. How old is the battery ? Have you checked its SoH while disconnected from the car ? Under what conditions are you checking SoC ? Using a voltmeter at the battery while connected to the car ? Using the MFD - I hope not.
 
#858 ·
Your charger/maintainer look quite nice. At 10A it is more powerful than any of the CTEK products discussed here. It seems to have a 12v AGM mode, separate from a regular 12 mode, however the quoted spec make no mention of the actual charging voltages used. 14.7v is what is ideal for AGM and 14.2 to 14.4v is ideal for flooded lead acid batteries. If Noco can guarantee that they use 14.7v for AGM, then I would not hesitate to use your charger. The only thing I would be hesitant to do is use it on flooded batteries which are less than 100Ah. AGM bahheries can take a higher charging rate so no problem with the Macan 92Ah, 95Ah or 105 Ah AGM batteries batteries.
 
#866 ·
I took the car on a 2hr drive. I’m guessing the battery is near full, so I just plug in the 1A Noco charger, the following morning it’s already at full charge.
Seems I'm the only one using a Noco Genius10 and now I'm thinking it might not be good. :oops:
Which one do you own, 1 or 10 amps?

The output is NOT a flat 14.7V. There is a bulk charging stage, absorbtion stage, then the maintenance stage.

At this point you need to do some basic research
 
#871 ·
I looked at different sources online and there is no precise consensus regarding the SoC of an AGM battery. e.g.
https://sunonbattery.com/agm-battery-voltage-capacity/ reports that 12.85v =100% and 12.25v = 50%
Battery State of Charge Chart - ElectricScooterParts.com reports that 13.00v =100% and 12.05v = 50%
Car Battery State of Charge Calculator reports that 12.787v =100% and 12.291v = 50%

If you use a different calculator you may get very different results because there is a fair amount of variability in these numbers. I think that each specific battery design may have slightly different values based on the exact materials used (e.g. the specific gravity of the acid used) and manufacturing techniques used. So these numbers can be considered directionally correct, but not absolutely correct. Given that very small voltage differences work out to large SoC differences that we see in the data, you may be way off in estimating your SoC.

It would appear that AGM batteries do put out a slightly higher voltage than flooded batteries do, but here again, the differences are quite small. I found this chart which at least acknowledges that there is no one precise voltage that corresponds to a specific % of SoC. So using voltage is an imprecise way to get to SoC and more so if the discharge behavior of a specific battery is not known. BU-903: How to Measure State-of-charge
View attachment 282992
 
#872 ·
Given that very small voltage differences work out to large SoC differences that we see in the data, you may be way off in estimating your SoC.
Read

which basically says to ignore all they internet experts. Just use on of the cheap battery analyzer. It will tell you the SOC and SOH. Its close enuff.
 
#881 ·
If you are only concerned with your car battery and not other batteries which are not in the car, it makes far more sense to buy a diagnostic tool that can be used for many things in order to extract SoC readings from the BMS. The BMS will be calibrated to your exact battery and it will have the benefit of constantly analyzing it when it provides its output. That tool can also do many other things, amortizing your investment, while a dedicated battery health device can only look at batteries, and if the battery is in the car, it will not provide good SoC data because the device can not know what is or is not connected to the battery.
 
#882 ·
Yeah, I could use my Launch to search for the battery status, but I doubt it would give useful information in case the BMS has a problem, i.e. not charging the battery properly. As said before, I trust my (cheap) digital battery analyzer (and my DVMs) and they tell me the battery is OK, but weakly charged - this is my issue. So my big Q is, do I have a BMS problem, or do all Macans behave like mine, which then would eventually require much more battery care, even a daily one (e.g. when continuously charged below 50% by the BMS)?
 
#885 ·
When I replaced my 2016 Macan battery, November 2022 with a Clarios made, Pep Boys Champion AGM 900 CCA/95AH…
Before installation I bench tested it. Multi meter showed only 12.48 V! I suspect it has been sitting on their shelf for many months. The date sticker was 5/22 and I suspect they had not charged it since then. I had to charge 15–18 hours before CTEK showed that it was done!

After it was fully charged per CTEK and still before I installed it, I checked again with the multi meter and got a reading of 13.45 V! (Yes, I realize that some of this was surface charge)
I then tested with my solar capacitance tester.
Solar 13.34 V, OK (? CCA), SOH = 100%, SOC = 100% 2.54 mΩ
{I forgot to write down the CCA but must have been 900 CCA or more to yield SOH 100%}


When I replaced my 2019 911 C2S battery with Clarios made Walmart Everstart 900 CCA/95Ah (Walmart.com mail to home N/C shipping) did not have a date stamp but bench tests:
Out of the box multi meter = 12.69 V
Charge with CTEK 4.25 hrs till done.
MM=13.28 V.
Wait 2 hrs. b4 test with Solar to dissipate surface charge.
1:40 AM 50˚F in garage
Solar= 13.01 V 100%
SSA/CCA 900
942 CCA, “OK”
SOH = 100%, (I calculate 942/900 = 105%)
SOC = 100%, 2.67 mΩ

Bottom line, I think AGM batteries, when fully charged, have 13+ V… Unlike flooded lead acid batteries which have less.
2.1 v/cell, T= 12.6 V
some charts show 2.12 v/cell, T= 12.7 V
here are 2 charts FLA & AGM
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#886 ·
Is there a way to know the "health" of the battery? Like how one can view the battery of a Macbook's laptop battery. I'm assuming it's not the SoC.

If, say mine after being ignore for a few yrs (gotten used) of being not in a battery tender and below the required use per year, can that be somewhat reversed back to better health by the CTEK's recon stage as it charges?
 
#887 ·
SoH, is a measure of the battery's ability to deliver a quantity of watt-hours as a percentage of a new battery's capability. Over time, degradation of the battery by various means (sulfation, breakdown of plates and acid solution etc.) causes the battery's output capability to decrease.
can be seen:
- using a stand alone battery health checker like this which typically uses battery internal resistance as a way to estimate battery SoH
  • using a diagnostic tool to pull that info out of the Macan's BMS which monitors this parameter constantly and should be a better measure of SoH
  • other more sophisticated methods which measure the battery's charge capacity through discharge testing or tracking the amount of charging necessary to achieve a target SoC

I have read that AGM batteries do not respond well to attempts to recover lost SoH using a maintainer in reconditioning modes. However, using a standalone tester and the CTEK MXS 5.0's AGM RECOND setting, I was able to see a modest increase (a few % if I rccall correctly) in SoH on a 7 1/2 year old Macan battery I keep around as an emergency power source.
 
#891 ·
Not sure about every CTEK model but the MXS 5.0 has a recondition mode which needs to be selected.

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