Porsche Macan Forum banner

Tips for replacing your cracked & faded B and C Pillar Trims (DIY)

39K views 74 replies 34 participants last post by  Sajan  
#1 · (Edited)
Once my side trim pillars started to crack vertically, I knew it was just a matter of time I'd need to do the whole lot. I do park in the California sun most days and the gloss started to crack all over then a vertical crack started to appear on at least 4 of them. I looked on line and didn't see anyone with DIY tips so hopefully these will provide some insight.

My guess that anyone that wants to keep a Macan long term will need to do this at least once. Knowing what I know now, it's probably a 3/10 on a difficulty scale and I've changed the clutch and reinstalled my transmission solo on my 996 with a 8/10 difficulty rating (clutch slave cylinder bolts are a b&^ch).

There are 6 trim gloss-black pieces for my 2015 Macan Turbo:

B-Pillar Front
95B-853-317-H 50-Left-B-Pillar-Front
95B-853-318-F 50-Right-B-Pillar-Front
B-Pillar Rear
95B-853-351-D 51-Left-B-Pillar-Front
95B-853-352-D 51-Right-B-Pillar-Rear
C-Pillar
95B-853-589-G 52-Left-C-Pillar
95B-853-590-F 52-Left-C-Pillar
Image

I was unable to source from one supplier so had to track them down from several online vendors. Note, the REV letter on the end of each part number. The higher the letter the better. (more recent revision)

Replacing the front B-Pillar Trim
  • Fairly straight forward, just like Moneypitz shows on this video
  • The key is being able to roll the window down the whole way, pull back rubber, loosen the three screws on each side, and with a little silicon spray, reinsert and tighten.
  • 30 minutes tops for both sides.

Replacing the rear B-Pillar and C-Pillar Trim
  • Definitely requires removing the rear door cards (2 screws each side)
  • You'll need to disconnect each rear window from the regulator assembly so that it can be tilted out of the way to access the screws.
  • You'll need to also pull out the rubber trim from the bottom 2/3 of the window assembly. Don't worry, it's easy to get back in.
Step 1 - Removing the rear door panels (cards) and inside trim.
Only two screws for door card removal - one behind the door latch and one behind the bottom indicator light. T25 for both I believe. Sample video here.
Lift UP on the door card and it should come away from the securing latches
Be careful disconnecting the electrical connections then set aside.
Remove the plastic window rail cover on the upper portion of the inside of the door.

Step 2 - Lower the rear window to about 2 inches from the bottom of its travel. You should see this assembly:
Image


Step 3 - Once this is removed, you can lower the window just a bit more to then release the latch (Step 4) that is holding the window in place.

Step 4 - Pull the plastic retaining clip away from the window (about 10 mm) and then lift up on the window to release. It's hidden from view and you just have to feel for it.

Image


The window connects to the regulator at this point and has to be disconnected to see what it looks like.

Image


Step 5 - Tilt to window out of the way and remove the three (3) screws on the rear B-Pillar (bottom two shown here)

Image


Step 6 - Reinstall the new Rear B-Pillar trim piece.

Step 7 - Remove the four (4) screws attaching the C-Pillar (one inside the door frame, not shown here)

Image


Step 8 - Replace the C Pillar trim piece but be careful to make sure the window fits inside of the molding near the rear of the car.

There is a 6-8 inch rubber tail trim piece that fits inside the lower C-Pillar Trim to guide the window when it is moving upward. If you do not get this right, you may damage the trim piece or worse the window assembly.

Step 9 - Test window movement by sliding up and down a bit before reconnecting to the regulator. Then mount the window to the door regulator assembly. <hear a click?>

Step 10 - Move the window up a bit and replace the green stopper that was removed in Step 2.

Step 11 - Fit all rubber trim pieces back. I found it was ok to use a bit of silicon spray (I used a rag to wipe the pieces) to make them fit snug again.

Step 12 - Reinstall the inside Door Upper Trim and Door Card and electrical connections.

Back to looking factory new:

Image
 

Attachments

#2 ·
In 2020 I picked up a CPO 2018 Macan and noticed when I was detailing the car the piano black pieces all had micro-cracks in them. I took the car to the dealer and had them replace all of them under warranty. I PPF all of the new pieces and that has been helping keep them looking new. Appreciate the tutorial on the installation of the replacement pieces.
 
#5 ·
I was able to find them for about $50-60 a piece so for about $350 (shipping/taxes) it was a worthwhile adventure. Because I didn't want to wait months, I sourced them from (sunsetporscheparts.com, getporschesilverspringparts.com & porscheburlingameparts.com) and still had to wait about 6 weeks. I did the vinyl wrap as well but didn't hold up. I love my Macan and will be driving it for years to come. This was the only thing that started to go and really makes a difference.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Robert M
#6 ·
Thanks for posting this; it's intersting. I was wondering how much work it was to replace the pillar trim.

I have a 2023 S and I just had all of this gloss black trim covered with PPF - mainly to prevent swirls and scratches from people grabbing onto the trim to close the doors. I wonder if it will help with the long-term stability of the trim? Or if just by parking it indoors would help (and using a UV protecting sealant/wax).
 
#7 ·
Thanks for posting this; it's intersting. I was wondering how much work it was to replace the pillar trim.

I have a 2023 S and I just had all of this gloss black trim covered with PPF - mainly to prevent swirls and scratches from people grabbing onto the trim to close the doors. I wonder if it will help with the long-term stability of the trim? Or if just by parking it indoors would help (and using a UV protecting sealant/wax).
There are two elements I think at play - The finish which PPF and UV protection should help but the other issue is the actual trim piece (gloss black, carbon, etc.) is connected to the structural element of the trim piece (for all 3 on each side). The parts are glued/heated(?) together and I think the connection is a stress point as this is where I saw the cracks from. It may eventually crack vertically over time but that might have something to do with the exterior trim plastic degrading over time. Good plan on tackling it sooner than later.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Smigelski
#13 ·
Well this thread gave me the courage to try this myself...I honestly thought the parts were more expensive which is 95% of the reason I had put it off.

Got everything installed today and despite my BEST efforts my passenger rear regular/motor threw an absolute fit on the first attempt rolling the window up. Now I am getting a slow rolling window, rolls crooked occasionally, and sounds like it's full of gravel.

Good news, rear regulator DIY incoming as soon as parts arrive!
 
#14 ·
Ya, the rear windows are the crux. Once the B-pillar and C-pillar trim pieces are in, start the reassembly of the rubber gasket with the rear rubber 6-8" tail is so that it is seated inside the C-trim bottom section that extends inside the door. Then the glass fits inside the rubber trim. You should then be able to move the window up and down with your hand before you latch it into the retaining clip. I almost broke my rear window and trim piece the first time assembling the rubber trim and tail.

Image


Image
 
  • Like
Reactions: T308
#15 ·
You're not kidding. Funny thing is I got the 1st rear window seated properly by dumb luck...installed perfectly. The 2nd one I took my time and triple checked...and that's the one that trashed the regulator.

The room to work inside the door panel to get the window in that seal is very very tight. Doable. But not enjoyable.

Fwiw the entire process is very straightforward. Bonus is that the regulator and motor are very cheap and straight forward to replace if you do experience an issue.
 
#16 ·
2017 Macan GTS. Bought used 2/2022. Geat car. Finally finished the extended warranty work on engine oil leaks at the dealer. Tedious, but, I think a necessary process. Now doing some cosmetic clean up. People who see the pillar covers say they’ve never seen anything like these before. I got right and left B pillar covers from SunCoast. Looks like I’ll have to buy the C pillar covers, too. The dealer quote was not realistic. I got another quote from a paint group I want to repair sod scratchesm. I’m in Norther VA - what people here call the DMV Area (District/Maryland/Virginia). Anyone know a shop that can install them?
 
#18 ·
Just finished replacing the regulator and motor on the rear door...probably the easiest job I've done on this car...so simple it's hardly worth the write up.

There are 3 nuts holding the motor in place, remove these, disconnect the harness, and pull the motors straight back. There are 2 nuts holding the regulator in place at the top and bottom (top is hidden behind a plastic cap). Remove these. Last thing to do, push the 3 plastic mounting clips that the motor was mounted to into the door (this bit is connected to the regulator.) finally, fish the regulator out of the door - install in reverse order.

The entire process took me about 30 minutes and total parts cost was $160 from europa parts (and they oddly had them in stock).

Silky smooth operation now. Odd thing is, visibly everything about the old parts looks just fine...must have been some internal carnage.
 
#23 ·
my car porsche 2018 has all 6 pillars cracked at the same time, i brought it to the dealer where i purchase my car in 2019, still under manufacture warranty until 06/2024. They inspected and said the damage didn't cover under warranty , they are cosmetic issues. i paid $149 preliminary inspection fees. They want to charge $2900 to replace all of the pillars if i agree to fix. I felt the porsche service didn't want to replace them. I just called Porsche North America to open a case yesterday , still waiting to here the outcome.
 
#36 ·
Not 100% sure, but I think these were the ones I picked up.

They do require drilling holes through the trim to mount but looks pretty clean when done. I did it mostly to prevent additional rock chips in the lower sections of the car.

Ray
 
#35 ·
Great info, I swapped out the rear C pillar and the window now goes up cockeyed and stops. I can see down the channel that the window is in the track, but other than that I'm stumped. Maybe the rubber tail is out of line? View attachment 277608
Any ideas?
Anyway, this rear c-pillar one was tricky. This post helps explains it in a bit more details (https://www.macanforum.com/threads/...-for-replacing-your-cracked-faded-b-and-c-pillar-trims-diy.188969/#post-2749365) Good luck.
 
#34 ·
Sorry, was not getting notifications on this thread. check out Step 8 from above: Replace the C Pillar trim piece but be careful to make sure the window fits inside of the molding near the rear of the car. There is a 6-8 inch rubber tail trim piece that fits inside the lower C-Pillar Trim to guide the window when it is moving upward. If you do not get this right, you may damage the trim piece or worse the window assembly. This was particularly tricky and as I recall (it's been a minute since I did mine) you can freely slide the window up and down before you connect it to the motor to be sure it's lined up correctly. Good luck. - Ray