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Once my side trim pillars started to crack vertically, I knew it was just a matter of time I'd need to do the whole lot. I do park in the California sun most days and the gloss started to crack all over then a vertical crack started to appear on at least 4 of them. I looked on line and didn't see anyone with DIY tips so hopefully these will provide some insight.

My guess that anyone that wants to keep a Macan long term will need to do this at least once. Knowing what I know now, it's probably a 3/10 on a difficulty scale and I've changed the clutch and reinstalled my transmission solo on my 996 with a 8/10 difficulty rating (clutch slave cylinder bolts are a b&^ch).

There are 6 trim gloss-black pieces for my 2015 Macan Turbo:

B-Pillar Front
95B-853-317-H 50-Left-B-Pillar-Front
95B-853-318-F 50-Right-B-Pillar-Front
B-Pillar Rear
95B-853-351-D 51-Left-B-Pillar-Front
95B-853-352-D 51-Right-B-Pillar-Rear
C-Pillar
95B-853-589-G 52-Left-C-Pillar
95B-853-590-F 52-Left-C-Pillar

I was unable to source from one supplier so had to track them down from several online vendors. Note, the REV letter on the end of each part number. The higher the letter the better. (more recent revision)

Replacing the front B-Pillar Trim

• Fairly straight forward, just like Moneypitz shows on this video
• The key is being able to roll the window down the whole way, pull back rubber, loosen the three screws on each side, and with a little silicon spray, reinsert and tighten.
• 30 minutes tops for both sides.

Replacing the rear B-Pillar and C-Pillar Trim

• Definitely requires removing the rear door cards (2 screws each side)
• You'll need to disconnect each rear window from the regulator assembly so that it can be tilted out of the way to access the screws.
• You'll need to also pull out the rubber trim from the bottom 2/3 of the window assembly. Don't worry, it's easy to get back in.

Step 1 - Removing the rear door panels (cards) and inside trim.
Only two screws for door card removal - one behind the door latch and one behind the bottom indicator light. T25 for both I believe. Sample video here.
Lift UP on the door card and it should come away from the securing latches
Be careful disconnecting the electrical connections then set aside.
Remove the plastic window rail cover on the upper portion of the inside of the door.

Step 2 - Lower the rear window to about 2 inches from the bottom of its travel. You should see this assembly:

Step 3 - Once this is removed, you can lower the window just a bit more to then release the latch (Step 4) that is holding the window in place.

Step 4 - Pull the plastic retaining clip away from the window (about 10 mm) and then lift up on the window to release. It's hidden from view and you just have to feel for it.

The window connects to the regulator at this point and has to be disconnected to see what it looks like.

Step 5 - Tilt to window out of the way and remove the three (3) screws on the rear B-Pillar (bottom two shown here)

Step 6 - Reinstall the new Rear B-Pillar trim piece.

Step 7 - Remove the four (4) screws attaching the C-Pillar (one inside the door frame, not shown here)

Step 8 - Replace the C Pillar trim piece but be careful to make sure the window fits inside of the molding near the rear of the car.

There is a 6-8 inch rubber tail trim piece that fits inside the lower C-Pillar Trim to guide the window when it is moving upward. If you do not get this right, you may damage the trim piece or worse the window assembly.

Step 9 - Test window movement by sliding up and down a bit before reconnecting to the regulator. Then mount the window to the door regulator assembly. <hear a click?>

Step 10 - Move the window up a bit and replace the green stopper that was removed in Step 2.

Step 11 - Fit all rubber trim pieces back. I found it was ok to use a bit of silicon spray (I used a rag to wipe the pieces) to make them fit snug again.

Step 12 - Reinstall the inside Door Upper Trim and Door Card and electrical connections.

Back to looking factory new:

 

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These trim pieces are the bane of my existence. I've had mine vinyl wrapped but the expansion of the plastic beneath still causes issues.

Mind sharing rough cost on all 6 pieces? I feel like I priced it out once and it was around $1k.

I was able to find them for about $50-60 a piece so for about $350 (shipping/taxes) it was a worthwhile adventure. Because I didn't want to wait months, I sourced them from (sunsetporscheparts.com, getporschesilverspringparts.com & porscheburlingameparts.com) and still had to wait about 6 weeks. I did the vinyl wrap as well but didn't hold up. I love my Macan and will be driving it for years to come. This was the only thing that started to go and really makes a difference.

 

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Thanks for posting this; it's intersting. I was wondering how much work it was to replace the pillar trim.

I have a 2023 S and I just had all of this gloss black trim covered with PPF - mainly to prevent swirls and scratches from people grabbing onto the trim to close the doors. I wonder if it will help with the long-term stability of the trim? Or if just by parking it indoors would help (and using a UV protecting sealant/wax).

There are two elements I think at play - The finish which PPF and UV protection should help but the other issue is the actual trim piece (gloss black, carbon, etc.) is connected to the structural element of the trim piece (for all 3 on each side). The parts are glued/heated(?) together and I think the connection is a stress point as this is where I saw the cracks from. It may eventually crack vertically over time but that might have something to do with the exterior trim plastic degrading over time. Good plan on tackling it sooner than later.