A PIWIS II is more than enough for that job, looks like your PIWIS is having issues and can't decode any faults, get the tester fixed and you'll be good to go.
The VCI unit is properly connected? USB light steady ON and COMM flashing?

 

can you help with the device? Obviously its not communicating with the vehicle

 

If the lights on the VCI are working as they should one solid and one blinking then is a software issue.
In that case we send the PIWIS to they guy that does the technical support to get it fixed, there's nothing we can do at the shop to fix that.

 

Thanks

 

I need a heads up on the procedure. Its brand new TCU and do i need to go to programme or just do adaptation and coding?

 

System connects but I need the procedure

 

I successfully programmed the unit and coded it but it shows blocked,any help?

 

Hi All,

I’m facing an issue recently that I can’t point towards what is failing exactly. I have trouble codes and some data for someone who’s in the know to have a look at and possibly guide me to what may need replacing.

So here we go, the fault:

the fault it self is an issue with the gearbox, when selecting reverse on nearly every occasion the car slips out of gear and displays a yellow warning which says something along the lines of “loss of R gear, possible to drive on” it does go into first gear to drive forward but will not reverse. The red indicator on the instrument cluster where it shows which gear is selected, blinks on R. When this fault happens I can hear a clink noise as though something has slipped out.

I have connected a diagnostics system to read the code and the following is what is displayed:

P284D00 - Gear 1 actuator moves out of engaged position

P187F00 - Gear actuator position deviation

I have attached the diagnostic codes and a video showing some data.

 

It is an internal problem with the transmission, not the Transfer Case.
Possibilities:
The #1 Gear Position sensor is defective (Mechatronics).
The Gear #1 shift servo or fluid-valve solenoid is defective (Mechatronics).
The Gear #1 shift rod is being pushed out of its position after the servo moves it, due to a worn gear, shift-fork, or synchro problem in the gearbox portion of the transmission.

Try changing the fluid and filter, to see if the problem persists. Probably won't solve your issue, but worth a try before pulling out the Mechatronic unit. There are some repairs (replacement of the PCB1 and PCB2) that can be done on the Mechatronic unit, rather than replacing the whole assembly.

 

VAGfan you’re the authority on these!

2015 Macan Turbo P2737 pressure control solenoid F control circuit range performance. Have you seen this specific single code? Can you replace 1 solenoid only? Should I replace the circuit board kit on the valve body? Do I just put an refurb entire valve body in? Would a fluid change really correct the issue?

 

Hello,

Thank you for your response, so do you think it’s a gearbox issue or a Mec unit issue?

 

It also could be just some metallic particles (normal wear of the mechanism) that are sticking to the permanent-magnet portion of the Gear Position sensor, which will prevent the sensor from accurately measuring the actual position of the Gear #1 servo/shift rod. Clean that off and you might be good to go.

 

Thank you for the information. I will service the PDK first and see if that resolves it. I’m leaning towards the fault either being in the Mec unit or as suggested a gear synchro/ leaver. I will update this after completing a service on the PDK

 

Hello. I went my mechanic and he said my mechatronic has to be replace. Did you guys have any idea what’s the cost of that?
also I have those codes

 

The entire Mechatronic unit may not have to be replaced, there are some portions of it that have replacement parts available. The problem is that not many people know how to troubleshoot the problem down to the component level, and just replace the entire expensive Mechatronic unit.

 

Hello. 2015 Macan Turbo P2737 pressure control solenoid F control circuit range performance. Has anyone successfully solved this exact code? Did you replace 1 solenoid? Did you replace the circuit board kit on the valve body? Did you replace the entire valve body?

 

Hello all,

So recently bought a 2018 macan gts with 100km on the clock, all was going fine until I got a warning on the dash. I've just taken it into a garage to have the codes read, and this is what it's come back with:

The guy has said it's likely the mechatronics that's causing this, and has given me three options:

1. buy a new mechatronics system
2. find a macan that's being broken and get the gearbox and mechatronics from that
3. find a guy who can refurb my current one.

Just wanted to see if anyone else has had the above issues, what caused it, and how you fixed it.

Thanks all

 

Was this a Porsche dealership ? There was an older thread on this. Macan transmission mechatronics replacement

I had an issue with my former 2017 GTS . As an experiment which would have led to a replacement (if failed) my shop swapped actuators (left to right and visa versa ) . It never threw the code again in 2 more years .

 

It was at an independent VAG specialist. I'll give that a go with the actuators, thanks!

 

The dealers will want you to replace the whole transmission. The indies will replace the mechatronic unit whick will still run you approx. $5000. I was able to repair the same DL501 DCT from an Audi RS5 this year by replaceing 2 Borg Warner VFS Solenoids (VFS Solenoid 50228) and the Variable Bleed Valve (Borg Warner 50229). There are quite a few threads in the Audi forums regarding this failure. These solenoids control the transmiision oil flow and oil temp. When they fail, the transmission will over heat and go into limp mode and won't go into Drive or Reverse. I hope this helps.

Before changing these solenoids, I replaced the electronic control board which cost over $650, but it did not fix the problem. Yes, I had to open up the transmission twice and buy 2 sets of fluids for this repair. I still saved a ton because the dealer quoted $16K to replace the tranny for the RS5.

 

The dealers will want you to replace the whole transmission. The indies will replace the mechatronic unit whick will still run you approx. $5000. I was able to repair the same DL501 DCT from an Audi RS5 this year by replaceing 2 Borg Warner VFS Solenoids (VFS Solenoid 50228) and the Variable Bleed Valve (Borg Warner 50229). There are quite a few threads in the Audi forums regarding this failure. These solenoids control the transmiision oil flow and oil temp. When they fail, the transmission will over heat and go into limp mode and won't go into Drive or Reverse. I hope this helps.

Before changing these solenoids, I replaced the electronic control board which cost over $650, but it did not fix the problem. Yes, I had to open up the transmission twice and buy 2 sets of fluids for this repair. I still saved a ton because the dealer quoted $16K to replace the tranny for the RS5.

Thanks for this, the garage that I took it to has recommended a gearbox specialist, and said he can probably pull it apart and recondition it, and that it could just be the solenoids that need replacing. So I'm hoping if I go down this route I'm not going to have to fork out for a new mechatronic unit.

Am I ok driving the car until I get it looked at, or is this something which is going to get worse / do more damage the longer it's left?

 

While I hope you get this issue sorted ASAP and at a reasonable price, stories like these just give further verification why one should never own a German vehicle out of warranty.

😨

 

I think a lot depends on which generation, the model, and potential known issues. Now granted the newer cars do have more technology which complicates long term use but even stilll the cars are reliable .

I would not feel comfortable owning a first generation Macan 10 years. I wouldn’t feel comfortable owning a 996 either. However I would feel comfortable owning a 996 turbo. So One can split hairs .

I would feel comfortable owning a second generation Macan. I don’t know if I’d want to keep it 10 years but I think a person could squeak out two more years which is where a CPO would carry it beyond the factory warranty. That would make it six years to say I think it would be safe.

 

A 20k mi 2015 Turbo I was going to buy threw a code and could only go into reverse. Dealer quoted $20k for a box replacement. Their position is that these boxes can't be opened and you need to replace them when something goes wrong. The owner took it to a mechatronics specialist who fixed it for $1,500. It was just the solenoids IIRC. I didn't buy it because a better option presented itself but I otherwise wouldn't have had an issue with it. These boxes are solid but mechatronics don't like heat and if you drive them in econo mode in stop-and-go traffic, the oil will deteriorate prematurely and put the box at risk.

Never ever take it to the dealer.

 

A 20k mi 2015 Turbo I was going to buy threw a code and could only go into reverse. Dealer quoted $20k for a box replacement. Their position is that these boxes can't be opened and you need to replace them when something goes wrong. The owner took it to a mechatronics specialist who fixed it for $1,500. It was just the solenoids IIRC. I didn't buy it because a better option presented itself but I otherwise wouldn't have had an issue with it. These boxes are solid but mechatronics don't like heat and if you drive them in econo mode in stop-and-go traffic, the oil will deteriorate prematurely and put the box at risk.

Never ever take it to the dealer.

Thanks for this, I'm hoping a specialist can get it sorted without me having to replace the entire thing. If they're not a fan of the heat, I guess that doesn't bode well for me! I'm in Dubai and the summers here can hit the 50s!

 

Also, note that while Porsche loves to claim that the PDK in the Macan is a Porsche box, it's not. Macan's PDK is built by Audi at the Kassel plant and licensed/modified/rebranded by Porsche. To what extent still remains a mystery but it seems to be mostly software tweaks. It is not built by ZF like the PDK in 911s.

In other words, the PDK in the Macan has been around for a decade and it's very reliable. There are also enough indie specialists who can fix them.

 

More than likely you will be able to fix it. Once fixed, just drive it in manual or sport and change the oil before the suggested interval. You’ll be fine. In eco mode these transmissions shift gears a lot. Manual or sport reduces shifting and that reduces heat.

 

I would not drive it before fixing the issue. When the unit is running too hot, the clutch plates will get damaged and that repair will get more expensive because the whole tranny will have to be removed to access the clutch pack etc.

 

What are the physical symptoms? Did error come back on restart?

 

An error comes up on the dash every time the engine starts, something along the lines of:

"Engine control fault, consult a workshop, driving permitted"

There is a slight judder when pulling away from a stand still, but only a very slight one, maybe 2-3 quick, soft judders.

I've had it read by two different garages, who have both reset the code, but after around 50km of driving it comes back again on every start-up.

Going to speak with a gearbox specialist tomorrow, and see if anything can be done.

 

Ok so an update on all of this, it's the control unit on the mechatronics which has given up. I've been told that I can't purchase this control unit, as it's not sold separately, so my two options are:

1. new mechatronics unit
2. try find a used control unit from another Macan.

I feel happier going down the first route, but the problem I'm facing is that nowhere in Dubai can get hold of a new unit, I've been given lead times of 12 weeks for the part to even become available.

Any advice on how I might be able to get a genuine unit quicker? Will Porsche talk to me? Or would they expect to supply and fit in-house (at a much higher cost)... My wife is actually German, and travels back to Germany with work quite a lot, would she stand a better chance getting one there? If so, can anyone recommend where I start looking?

Thanks all

 

Any advice on how I might be able to get a genuine unit quicker? Will Porsche talk to me? Or would they expect to supply and fit in-house (at a much higher cost)... My wife is actually German, and travels back to Germany with work quite a lot, would she stand a better chance getting one there? If so, can anyone recommend where I start looking?

How about ebay? Or the thread right around the corner where someone is parting his macan?