My Macan is used infrequently.

As was reported, even w/ the prior ferrite bead fix my experience is that about 10-20% of the time the door lock function is adversely affected by the Fitcamx camera system. It has been observed that sometimes touching the exterior handle to lock the doors is ignored until the existing recording has completed.

Prior to adding that ferrite bead fix that exterior lock function was inhibited virtually all of the time, until the recording completed, evidenced by the camera blinking lights stopping.

The fuse panel power cord has been modified again by me. This is an "easy" low-cost modification.

The modification is to add three of these ferrite beads to the existing harness. Nothing on the existing wiring needs to be disconnected or reworked.

Just make three passes (verified by me) of the three-conductor black power cord through the hinged open core, then snap the ferrite bead shut. Lightly / carefully snug the cable to be close to the ferrite bead. Add a total of three of these new additional ferrite beads onto that black power cord.

Then tuck this ferrite / cable assembly into the cavity above the driver's side fuse panel and snap on the fuse panel door.

This solution was verified by me using this test:

1. Start engine and run for 20 seconds, so camera system starts running. Observe camera driver's side blinking lights to verify recording. (Note, my camera system has been modified to cover those blinking lights w/ a small piece of black electrical tape. That tape segment has been removed during the duration of this testing to permit observation of the LED indicators.
2. Turn off engine, exit vehicle and close door.
3. Verify blinking camera LED indicator then touch door handle to lock door.
4. Grab door handle to unlock door.
5. Open and close door.
6. Lock then unlock door by touching door handle.
7. Repeat 1-6 ten times.

It was discovered that there were zero issues observed during the entirety of this testing.

 

Will have to try this.

My alarm will arm; but about 20% of the time, the locking sound will not be made even though the car locks and the alarm is on.

I’ll report back when I have a chance to try and test this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

@scoresman, just keep waiting. They will either respond or not.

In the meantime, I will continue using my Fitcamx camera system and my vehicle.

There are other solutions, but NONE have the integrated appearance (including / especially that offered by Porsche) of the Fitcamx.

 

FWIW, I 100% agree that Fitcamx SHOULD arrive at a solution to this problem, not me. They should already have the personnel, experience and equipment on-hand. IMO, for some reason they just need more existing customers with this problem to request this issue to be resolved. They expressed to me they have zero interest for investigating the issue when I reported it to them because "I was the only one w/ the problem".

Now that I'm retired I don't have after hours access to a waaay cool engineering lab that would permit me to quantify the issue. Plus I sold all my personal engineering instruments, so I am unable to perform the measurements that would show EXACTLY the problem, permit identification of the best ferrite bead(s) to fix the problem and quantify the results of different solutions.

So instead the fixes shown are my "shotgun" solution, based on many decades of experience, readily available low-cost parts, with the sole objective of problem resolution.

My speculation is that w/ appropriate effort, equipment and experience this problem could be 100% resolved w/ two ferrite beads (probably different parts), instead of the six that are the solution.

On the plus side, there is zero issue w/ available space and zero delta on the existing cost, due to minimum package quantity.

Based on my limited testing there is not an adverse effect that has been identified from this solution, plus 100% resolution of the problem. The best option is for this to be implemented on multiple vehicles w/ the results shared and for those test vehicles to get lots of usage. Again, my vehicle will have zero usage for a week, followed by limited usage afterwards, so I won't be providing more information for a while.

 

Finally got around to this. I did use "equivalent" parts and will show what I used/did.

I used uxcell 7mm Ferrite Cores Ring and 5pcs Inner 13mm 0.5inch Filters on the power harness/cable from FitCamX.

With the 7mm cores, I added 2 to the red/yellow/black wiring that connects to the fuse panel. I wrapped the cables around the core and closed it shut. Then I used the 2 of the 13mm cores on the remaining harness. I was able to tuck everything behind the fuse panel.

After putting everything back in place, I tested per instructions/process from @wingless

1. Start engine and run for 20 seconds, so camera system starts running. Observe camera driver's side blinking lights to verify recording.
2. Turn off engine, exit vehicle and close door.
3. Verify blinking camera LED indicator then touch door handle to lock door.
4. Grab door handle to unlock door.
5. Open and close door.
6. Lock then unlock door by touching door handle.
7. Repeat Steps 1-6 ten times.

It seems to have resolved the alarm locking chime/sound issue where the chime/sound would not sound 20% of the time when the camera is still recording with lights blinking after shutting off the Macan. I'll continue to monitor to see if the fix holds up.

Thanks @wingless for the detailed write-up and continued investigation into this.

 

Does anyone have the standard room light connection completed and the camera working correctly ?
I have the camera, bought and paid for.. but do not want to install it with all of the add on stuff.. just a simple room install and room light connection.

 

Yes, there are plenty already documented in this now very long topic.

Note that method does not permit the parking impact monitoring as the power from that overhead light times out.

 

This reply shows my having repurposed the unused wye cable for my mirror mount radar detector. This is the wye cable that came w/ my Fitcamx front/ rear camera system, unused because I also purchased their direct wire fuse panel power cord.

Points of interest...

Some have reported that removal of overhead console dome lamp to use this cable is very difficult, frequently resulting in bent retention clips.

What I discovered is that this cable also "works" on the Front Camera Control Unit connector that is exposed when popping off the shroud at the base of the front rear view mirror, against the windshield. Note my 2022 Macan does not have the Surround View parking camera option, so my speculation is that this hidden module is for a windshield wiper rain sensor.

The Fitcamx wye cable plugs into that module connector, but the provided wiring is not compatible w/ the Fitcamx camera system when plugged into this module.

It is possible to rework the wiring on this wye cable so that it can be used to power the Fitcamx front camera, to eliminate the requirement to remove the overhead center console. Those instructions are detailed in this reply.

 

@wingless, if I am understanding you correctly, we can plug the FitCamX into the rain sensor instead of the plug above the overhead console? The instructions on the FitCamX website seems to support this easier method. If this works, I wonder why they haven't updated their install video? Not having to remove the overhead console should make this install about 75% easier/faster.

 

This reply shows my having repurposed the unused wye cable for my mirror mount radar detector. This is the wye cable that came w/ my Fitcamx front/ rear camera system, unused because I also purchased their direct wire fuse panel power cord.

Points of interest...

Some have reported that removal of overhead console dome lamp to use this cable is very difficult, frequently resulting in bent retention clips.

What I discovered is that this cable also "works" on the Front Camera Control Unit connector that is exposed when popping off the shroud at the base of the front rear view mirror, against the windshield. Note my 2022 Macan does not have the Surround View parking camera option, so my speculation is that this hidden module is for a windshield wiper rain sensor.

The Fitcamx wye cable plugs into that module connector, but the provided wiring is not compatible w/ the Fitcamx camera system when plugged into this module.

It is possible to rework the wiring on this wye cable so that it can be used to power the Fitcamx front camera, to eliminate the requirement to remove the overhead

 

This reply shows my having repurposed the unused wye cable for my mirror mount radar detector. This is the wye cable that came w/ my Fitcamx front/ rear camera system, unused because I also purchased their direct wire fuse panel power cord.

It appears that my infrequently used Macan still has instances where the door lock functionality is inhibited. It is better than before, but still not 100% good, sometimes still ignoring the lock door by touching the door handle function.

I have the same issue - maybe 10-20% of the time it wont lock. I use the overhead dome connector. So maybe this is an inherent issue with the Macan.

I am having a similar issue. For the power, I also tapped into the overhead console. Locking or unlocking my doors via the exterior door handle works 90% of the time the other 10%, I have to grab the key.

It is interesting and unfortunate that radio frequency interference from connecting the Fitcamx wye cable in the overhead console also hurts the Macan door lock functionality.

One possible solution that should 100% resolve that problem would be to rework that wye cable as shown in my reply and instead of connecting it into the difficult-to-remove overhead console, connect it to the rain sensor camera module within the windshield shroud. That should work 100% of the time because the power is immediately removed once ignition is turned off.

 

I just installed mine this morning via overhead console connection. The only problem is that when I open the app and want to use google maps with mobile data simultaneously, i couldn't go online because I need wifi to connect the app. But other than that, everything is seamless. I can check the app before I leave or after I arrive to my destination anyways.

 

I have wanted a dash cam for some time, but I wasn't going to have an exposed wire running to my lighter or a long wire tucked into my trim running down to my fuse box. Then I found a DIY video (below) a fellow Macaneer posted about the $200 FitCamX and I was sold!

It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.

I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
View attachment 262826

View attachment 262825

Hey thanks for sharing my video! I made this video in somewhat if s hurry too and well could of done it a bit better.

but so far 2 year ownership here are my pro and cons

Pros

• works flawlessly
• has an app and I am able to save my footage and look back if I need to
• night mode is surprisingly good
• oem look cant even tell I have it.
• great customer service

Cons
- Had issues with an sd card went through 5 card brands and finally found one that didn’t crash or stopped recording, Lexar brand super high speed like $60 for a 128gb? I believe

- my original unit had issue with recording where when card is full and for it to start the rerecord it didn’t do that, thus would stop recording, I was thinking it was my sd card, but after doing test ls with software etc lexar card seemed to work, but still crashes, so the manufacture had great customer service they sent me a new one at no cost!

- I disabled the crash detection and parking hit detection - twice when I had a hard break the footage was not recorded. I think its a bug or something.

 

Just wanted to share my experience with FitcamX (2 channel) in my 2017 GTS. I chose to use the hardwire route since I also have a hardwired radar detector in the same proximity.

Some observations:

• Installing the front camera was easy since I did not have to remove the overhead console to tap into power (no clips to worry about).
• Hiding the wire down the driver’s A pillar was no problem, and the route was shared with the Radar Detector wiring.
• The fuse box taps were easy since I combined the accessory of both radar detector and camera into one tap (increasing the fuse to 10 A). This was into an unused slot in column A (4th up from bottom). The always on tap was into the Horn fuse.
• Wiring the rear camera took a little more work to run and tuck the wiring down the car on the passenger’s side. EDIT: Some additional detail: I ran the wire in the headliner, fishing it all the way through to the rear - without running it in the door seals. Makes for a nice and neat finish.
• I chose to mount the camera on the headliner using a money clip bent to conform to the headliner angles. This allowed me to have a clean install and I did not have to mess with the liftgate at all.

I purchased the camera set just before Christmas and have it installed and running for several weeks now. I have not experienced any issues with electrical interference. I also ran both camera and radar detector at the same time for extended periods and no issues to report.

Assorted pictures of the install.

Fuse Panel with wire tap into fuse tap

Camera

Radar Detector in foreground and camera in background

Radar Detector

Rear Camera

Rear Camera mounted to headliner w/ clip

Money clip used (before shaping)

 

Nice install !

 

what a nice install! very nice! I did the same with my radar but fitcam x thought the top console

 

Tom ans Svatekl2 - did you install the isolaton magnets ?

 

I have been driving with this setup for several weeks now and I have not see any interference issues as reported in this thread. Because of this I do not have use for isolation magnets or ferrite beads at this point in time. I continue to keep an eye out for any signs of interference or other gremlins as reported.

I also do not see a correlation with the radar detector on the same fuse, since I do not have it connected most of the time (I keep it unplugged and out of sight in my center console). I only use it for distance highway driving. Unless possibly the radar cord is acting in the same capacity as a isolation magnet, absorbing the signal...

 

Nice install !

what a nice install! very nice! I did the same with my radar but fitcam x thought the top console

Thanks for the appreciation! I have wired a few dashcams and radar detectors and I did not want to get into trouble with the overhead console, so it was easier for me direct to the fuse box.

 

I ordered a FitCamX for my 2020 Macan in December and due to how much of a PITA the install appeared to be, I didn't install it until today.

The overhead console was definitely a PITA to remove. Once I got that off, the rest of the plastic removal was pretty straight forward. The next problem I ran into was the forward camera wouldn't snap together on the back side of the housing. Where the cables exit the housing, there's not a big enough gap, so it prevents you from snapping the camera together. I filed away just a little bit of plastic in the upper right corner on the right half of the camera housing. After that, the camera snapped together without a problem.

Routing the cable for the rear camera was very easy.

I am going to mount the rear camera to the headliner, but I need to order a clip first. @bakedporkchop do you have a link to the eBay clip you purchased?

Overall, the camera install was much more difficult than the one in my 2023 Ram TRX, due to the difficulty of the overhead console. When I sell this car, the camera is going with it!

Edit: I found the rear headliner clip on eBay.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

 

Do you have a picture of the rear camera installed with the ebay clip? Just curious...

 

I have my front dashcam wired using the passenger side fuse panel and door seals. I am interested in adding a rear view camera, but I am stumped as to how to route/fish the wiring. Could you explain further how the rear cable routing was done? TIA.

 

Hi Will -

I reviewed multiple videos on how to install a rear camera, and most all show running down the door seals. I found the video linked below which showed an approach on how to fish the wire through the vehicle.

Go to around the 2:10 mark and you will see an incremental fishing of the wire with a fiberglass rod. I followed the same approach by pushing the rod from inside the headliner on the passenger door to the windshield. I attached the wire and pulled through. then I wen to the rear door and followed what the video shows. Then I finally fed the rod through to near where I wanted the wire to exit for the rear camera and tucked the excess away. Mounting on the headliner was much easier than trying to fish all the way to the liftgate.

I hope that helps!

 

I think it looks good. I am all about not trying to overcomplicate things such as installing it on the tailgate when the headliner is a viable alternative.

 

I have my front dashcam wired using the passenger side fuse panel and door seals. I am interested in adding a rear view camera, but I am stumped as to how to route/fish the wiring. Could you explain further how the rear cable routing was done? TIA.

I think it looks good. I am all about not trying to overcomplicate things such as installing it on the tailgate when the headliner is a viable alternative.

This reply shows my FitcamX front / rear camera installation, including routing the wire into the disassembled tailgate.

Getting the wire from the front to the rear was simple / normal tucking and poke rods.

Getting the wire into the tailgate was normal trim disassembly / reassembly, w/ the only exception of getting the "large" camera connector through the flexible hinge rubber boot. That connector body was just a little too large, so I had to inch / stretch the boot over the connector body, then all was good.

IMO, placement of that camera as close to the glass will provide the best recorded optical image. My placement, using double sided tape, onto the CMSL housing gets the camera as close as possible to the glass.

It appears FitcamX has changed the rear camera body shape, from my earlier version, like a small rectangle, to the current / later version, like a small cylinder. IMO, I like the sleek shape of that earlier version. My earlier version included a very small U-shaped trunion mount, that I discarded, instead using double sided tape between the camera body and the CMSL housing.

 

Wingless and Tom: Thank you for your replies. I think that I will go with the Viofo A229 plus. I don't mind the appearance of the box on the windshield, and I like having GPS. Thanks again...

 

YW, please share images and impressions of that system.

 

Thanks for the images. Looks nice.

Is there a reason the wire wasn't fully tucked to not be visible at all? On mine, the wire isn't visible anywhere.

 

Thanks for the images. Looks nice.

Is there a reason the wire wasn't fully tucked to not be visible at all? On mine, the wire isn't visible anywhere.

Yeah...laziness. I suppose I could improve it a bit by working on the trim and finagling etc. There were one or two places that I did not want to force against the trim or panel. But black on black, with only mms showing and then if you only know what to look for, I think I'll leave it for now.

Thanks for the compliment. It took me at least five times as long to take, sketch on and post the pictures as it did to route the cable. And the pix still turned out glitchy!

 

The headliner clip I bought for the rear camera arrived today from the UK. You can mount the camera to the bottom or back side of the clip. I chose the bottom, because the camera is tucked in a little better and the wire can snug up against the clip, which is a little cleaner looking. The video perspective from either position is virtually the same.

 

Have there been any "improvements" to the system by the Manu......with the reported EMI complaints? and non locking attempts ?

 

No, the overhead tap only provides power for a few minutes after the car is turned off (kinda like when you listen to the radio after turning off the car). Power will turn off immediately when the alarm is armed.

I just had a Thinkwear u

No, the overhead tap only provides power for a few minutes after the car is turned off (kinda like when you listen to the radio after turning off the car). Power will turn off immediately when the alarm is armed.

i just had a Thinkware installation.
They tell me that if the car gets bumped the camera will go on.
If your lucky you will catch the the bad guy pulling away.

 

Just had a note from FITCAMX support. They now have a revised shielded cable for this Camera......hmmmmm, makes it difficult now.

I just dont know if I can give up Radar on the U3000 now....it is getting great reviews...super low battery pull.

 

Has anyone installed the FITCAMX front and rear cameras connected to the fuse box using this revised shielded cable and had absolutely no interference? Wondering if their product has improved based on customer feedback.