[Yadkin]

Porsche includes the brake fluid replacement every two years,
I'll not trust the tool to extend the flush interval, as the brake fluid that suffer the most is the one on the calipers and not the fluid on the reservoir, sticking to the two year interval is the best way to guarantee performance and durability.

Moisture can only enter the system at the reservoir, so whatever is there represents the worst case in the system.

 

[Stealthn]

I’ll be doing mine myself in a couple of weeks, I can feel it in the pedal and it should be done every 2 years. I use Motive dry method which works good. I just can’t cycle the ABS, but it’s still better than not doing it, cost is just the fluid (and a couple of beers).

 

[engin_ear]

Does anyone here cycle the ABS when doing a brake fluid flush??? Certainly seems like a good thing to do. What are the thoughts on this?

I have the iCarsoft POR V2.0, which has a mode for ABS cycling for brake bleeding. Someone on here stated that it doesn't work. Not sure why. Haven't tried it yet.

I certainly recognize that doing a full bleed without ABS cycle gets most of the fluid in the system out. Operative word "most". Why not be complete and get all of it out if possible? How much fluid does the ABS pump hold? Anyone know?

 

[muncie]

Bleeding and flushing are two different things. Bleeding infers the system was open and air needs to be removed. Flushing is a maintenance action intended to introduce new fluid or remove contaminants.
Does anyone cycle the ABS? I do not; it adds unnecessary complexity IMO unless you have opened the ABS pump or let the reservoir go too low.
"Certainly seems like a good thing to do" this is sentiment unlikely to be shared by a professional technician but I am not.
"Why not be compete and get all of it out if possible" the enemy of good or even great is "better."

 

[ef1018]

All Porsche Macans require a special LOW viscosity DOT 4 fluid. Pentosin DOT 4 LV. Use regular DOT 4 and you will get a sqeeky peddle sound every time you brake. Trust me i learned the hard way and had to replace the master cylinder as i could not get it cleaned out.

 

[oqjnLu@>@W]

 

[CHTAHOE]

And if you are not the DIY type, I would think most independent garages would quote you $100 or less for the job. It’s a similar job to just about any other car, no special tools needed. $350 is just plain silly.

You're right and You're wrong! It is an easy DIY job BUT you do need a pressure bleeder with the proper reservoir cap/attachment, other wise the anti-lock function will not allow proper bleeding without the appropriate pressure . If you're not familiar re this then pay to have it done properly. Cheers

 

[rp930]

Cheap insurance against ABS module failures and brake problems. Just do it every other year unless you track it.

 

[///Bruce]

Slap on a set of Goodridge Teflon-coated SS brake lines. They make a difference.

 

[CHTAHOE]

+1 on the motive power bleeder it’s so easy. I was dreading the brake fluid changes as well and then I got the power bleeder and the motive brake fluid catch cans. It’s such a breeze now and old fluid is caught in the cans so really makes the process a lot cleaner.

Ditto!

 

[ChemEngr]

All Porsche Macans require a special LOW viscosity DOT 4 fluid. Pentosin DOT 4 LV. Use regular DOT 4 and you will get a sqeeky peddle sound every time you brake. Trust me i learned the hard way and had to replace the master cylinder as i could not get it cleaned out.

I am also having the same issue with the brake pedal squeak. It started when I used ATE 200 fluid. I have already flushed the brake fluid 3 times using Pentosin DOT 4 LV using Motive pressure bleeder. The squeak is reduced but not completely gone. I am surprised that 3 flushes over several months haven’t completely flushed out the brake fluid.

How much did it cost you to replace the MBC? How many times did you flush with the LV fluid? I have a warranty on the car for the next few months, so I was wondering if I should try changing the fluid one more time or see if the dealer changes the MBC under warranty. Thanks!

 

[Vrooooom]

Has anyone tried Motul 5.1 if that’s ok for our brakes. I can’t seems to find the LV variety locally.

I was originally going to use the Ate 200 …but I recon why take the chance.

 

[V. Larson]

Slap on a set of Goodridge Teflon-coated SS brake lines. They make a difference.

I agree there is a noticeable firmer pedal w/ the Goodridge SS lines.

 

[///Bruce]

I agree there is a noticeable firmer pedal w/ the Goodridge SS lines.

Initially I wanted to run EBC Red Stuff. But they didn’t make that choice early on. I’ve been running Yellow Stuff for about two years now. Can’t complain since my wheels are RS Spyders and hide dust well.

 

[dougeefresh]

I stand by my assertion (above) that ATE 200 in the Macan can (and does) cause massive brake squeak in the master cylinder, but the correct fluid is Porsche OEM or DOT 4 LV (not Super DOT 4 as I incorrectly stated above). Flushed out the ATE 200 with (Pentosin) low-viscosity (LV) and the squeak immediately went away. Now jumping ahead two years, tired of the squeaking clutch pedal on my 987, I flushed out the ATE 200 with LV and voila! - instant fix.
I'm certainly not asserting that all clutch and brake master cylinder squeaks are caused by the type of brake fluid, and I recognize that many Porsche owners have had no issues using ATE 200, but many have....including me. Just food for thought. It's worth a bit of google search before deciding to flush. FYI, Porsche genuine OE fluid is DOT4 LV.

I should've searched before doing the flush. Just did a flush with ATE 200 (blue can) and now I have the horrible pedal squeak! Just ordered Pentosin LV... sigh 😕

 

[Vrooooom]

Slap on a set of Goodridge Teflon-coated SS brake lines. They make a difference.

where did you get that, or are you in EU? Not as common as the flat6 lines.

 

[///Bruce]

Years ago, theonly place you culd order the lines was from England. Yeah, i paid for S&H. No regrets three years later. Flawless.

 

[Vrooooom]

the viscosity @ –40c:

Ate Type 200 = 1,400 cst @100c = 2.2 to 2.8 cst wet: 198c
Castrol React SRF = 1300 cst @100c = 3.5 cst wet: 270
Redline RL-600 = 1414 cst @100c = 2.6 cst wet: 201

Motul 5.1 = 820 cst @100c = 2.1 cst wet: 185c
Amsoil dot 3&4 = 817 cst @100c = 2.0 cst wet: 187c
Ate Super DOT 5.1 = 750 cst @100c = 1.8 to 2.4 cst wet: 180c

RAVENOL Dot 4 LV = 750 cst @100c = 2.1 cst
Pentosin LV = 700 cst 6.4cst (@40c, the others @100c) wet: 170c
MOTUL Dot 4 LV = 675 cst

 

[ChemEngr]

I am also having the same issue with the brake pedal squeak. It started when I used ATE 200 fluid. I have already flushed the brake fluid 3 times using Pentosin DOT 4 LV using Motive pressure bleeder. The squeak is reduced but not completely gone. I am surprised that 3 flushes over several months haven’t completely flushed out the brake fluid.

How much did it cost you to replace the MBC? How many times did you flush with the LV fluid? I have a warranty on the car for the next few months, so I was wondering if I should try changing the fluid one more time or see if the dealer changes the MBC under warranty. Thanks!

Replying to my own post to provide an update. The pedal squeak never went away. Finally got the master brake cylinder replaced under warranty. I was told it would have cost me around $2,000 out of pocket. The squeak is now gone and lesson learned!