Normal and OCD. Welcome to the club


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

I get rust on the brake disks before I even finish washing the car. It's normal, and wears off as soon as you apply the brakes.

 

No Worries its normal. After washing your car take it for a brisk drive around the block applying the brakes several times and that should help clear up the rust issue.

 

Pccb does not rust

 

Anywhere where the brake pads don't touch the rotors will rust. If there's a significant portion of the ID or OD of the rotors that are rusted, you need to check them out for obvious reasons.

I am too lazy to go downstairs to check and confirm the second picture but I wouldn't worry about it.

 

@ALiu It's perfectly normal. But if it really bothers you, you could buy some Zinc paint and coat the visible edges (NOT THE BRAKE ROTOR SURFACE!) and that will stop it.

 

Meh. REAL Porsche owners buy new brake discs weekly.

 

Completely normal and a fact of nature. On motorcycles some run stainless steel rotors to prevent the rust, since they are out there in the open for everyone to admire. The downside with stainless steel is poorer braking performance.

 

If it really bothers you, you can purchase rustopper which you spray over the rotor.
Personally, I don't use it as spraying something on a critical safety device like brakes doesn't sit well with me.

 

Thanks everyone for their responses!

 

I noticed since I got my Macan S last year that rust seemed to be originating from behind the center caps and bleeding onto my wheels...
So I just changed over to my summer wheels and I was surprised to see how rusty the hubs where! There was NO cap over the locking nut either! Has anyone else noticed this? Does the Macan not have a cover over the nut?


My solution was to clean the area with Brake cleaner, then apply a rust penetrator around the hub and nut (avoiding the rotor disc), then applying a high temp stainless Anti Seize over the hub area and centering ring (avoiding the rotor face per the manual as this must NOT be lubricated). They cleaned up well and look a lot better...just surprising to see how rusty this area was with no cover! See before and after pics:

 

Mine have surface rust as well, but not as bad as the rust in the photo. I thought about cleaning them up and hitting it with spray paint.

 

Here's another thing to put on my to do list when I get my Macan...

Good job with the clean up!

 

Costco reported the same thing in notes on my tire install. I didn't understand what exactly they meant, but looking at your pictures now it makes sense...

 

Man, that's a heck of lot rust for such a short time! I have not seen that much rust even for 5, 6 year old cars! The center looks really corroded. You did a heck of good job cleaning it up. I better take a wheel off and see inside.

 

I agree, I was really surprised. I changed my gf's wheels over on her '16 C300 Benz and the exposed hub nut was clean enough to eat off of in comparison! I only cleaned as much of the surface rust as possible off...the thick anti seize basically coated the existing rust and should prevent it from getting worse...and makes it look much better! =)

 

I've had luck using caliper paint by VFT on the rotors of my 911 (2008). It's held up after 1 year and looks like new.

 

What’s the best way of keeping the brake rotors from getting rusted?

Just wondering if there is something out there that can prevent them from getting rusted.

Someone I know who owns a Q5 already has rust built up on the front rotor.

I seen people spray paint them back to the metal finish (videos on utube)

 

Someone I know who owns a Q5 already has rust built up on the front rotor.

Do you know if the rotors are OEM or aftermarket?
Usually OEM rotors are of good quality and coated - they don't rust easily.
Aftermarket rotors are of all kinds, cheaper ones are not coated and rust very fast, but that's just visual, you can drive them as long as more expensive coated rotors.
I've used all kinds of rotors on my cars and if I can I'll pick coated rotors to avoid seeing rust.

 

Anywhere that the rotor is touched by the brake pad will surface rust and self clean. Otherwise you can use high temp paint on the hub surfaces but more often than not it ends up flaking off and looking worse after a year or so.

 

Agree with SOMEGUY...>

You're referring to the hub, your best bet is to take them off and paint the hub. Anytime you wash the car and simply park in your garage or other, the rotors themselves will show surface rust. As soon as you drive a few miles, they will clean up and you will find it on your rims (LOL).

Good luck

 

Move to a dry climate?

 

All four hubs on my 2018 Macan GTS were rusted...my vehicle is not even a year old yet, has less than 5,000 miles on it, and it's kept outside. I noticed the rusted hubs when I changed over to my satin black Spyders. I removed one wheel at a time, then wired brushed the rust off best I could, painted the inside of the hub with high-temp paint (using a small modeling brush to get all the nooks & crannies), then used high-temp anti-seize on the outside rim of the hub where it makes contact with the wheel.

Before...

After...

 

Not looking forward to what my '15 S hubs look like once I replace the oem Michelins soon.

 

Masscan - that is what I do too, on all my winter driven cars.
There is also the added dissimilar metal issue as well.
Steel, aluminum, water, salt, electricity/static. All aid in causing rust and electrolysis.
Even though I wire wheel and anti seize, I still had a tough time getting my X5 wheels of the rusty hub, and corroded wheel center.

 

Even though I wire wheel and anti seize, I still had a tough time getting my X5 wheels of the rusty hub, and corroded wheel center.

I had a harder time getting the front wheels off compared to the rears, and once I got the wheels off, I was able to remove most of the rust stains/corrosion from inside the wheel centers using a 3M Scotch Brite pad when I washed them. I used a wire brush to get most of the rust off the hubs before I painted those.

I'll see how the high-temp anti-seize worked when I take the black Spyders off sometime in October, and install my machined faced Spyders for the Winter.

 

LoL high temp anti-seize? The cheap aluminum/silver anti-seize is usually rated to around 1600°F...if your wheel hubs are getting that hot, you have bigger problems. Heck, even rotor surface temps on a track day you'd be hard pressed to get over 1000°F.

 

Copper high-temp anti-seize is all I have on hand, and I'm certainly wasn't about to purchase the special Porsche Optimoly Paste they recommend for this application that costs $40 at the dealership.

 

My X5 winter wheels are well used. There is even corrosion inside the wheel hub.
I should wire wheel the wheel hub. That clear coating is well gone, leaving bare aluminum.
Steel, bare aluminum, salt and water.
I think I will add a layer of anti seize to the inside of the wheel hub, to my OCD list. Clearly, winter salty water is getting in there, behind the center cap and percolating.

 

I tried cleaning the wheels and brake rotors with P&S Brake Buster, pressure washer, and air-dry with blower, but the brownish hue on the brake rotors is still there. I'm hoping it to get it back to the clean silver surface somehow. Do you guys have any recommendations for any chemicals/rust removal for brake rotors that will be safe to use and won't deteriorate brake performance?

 

I tried cleaning the wheels and brake rotors with P&S Brake Buster, pressure washer, and air-dry with blower, but the brownish hue on the brake rotors is still there. I'm hoping it to get it back to the clean silver surface somehow. Do you guys have any recommendations for any chemicals/rust removal for brake rotors that will be safe to use and won't deteriorate brake performance?

Go to a safe place, legally get up to 50 or so. Brake hard. Repeat. Its like magic.