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Discussion starter · #161 ·
...Interstate sells an MTX-49H8 that is AGM and seems to be a direct replacement for our Varta batteries except that it is rated at 95Ah instead of the Varta's 92Ah, a minor difference. The case dimensions are identical. The price at my local Interstate shop is $203, a substantially less amount than the dealership prices. They have them in stock.

So, here is a potential problem: viewing YouTube videos of Varta installations, the hangup may be in "registering" a non-Varta battery. The registration appears to be done using the Porsche PIWIS unit and requires inputing a serial number from the new battery to complete the process.

Anyone have any experience or learned advice about this?
I have this same question. Interstate is an excellent brand of car battery. 95Ah is better than 92 Ah.
It would almost certainly be a good fit, even if the Bottom of the battery case lacked the same lip as on the OEM Varta to secure it, I'm fairly certain the top strap or metal bar would suffice.

The big question remains, how do you register it?

I've asked the following question in several threads w/o a reply:

If you hook up a CTEK battery maintainer, b4 you swap battery, the car will not be w/o power.
So, maybe you can "fool" the computer & it will not "know" that the battery has been changed & there will be no reason to register?

But maybe the computer will not properly charge or maintain the new battery since it thinks it is a 4-5 year old Varta 92Ah while it really is a brand new Interstate 95Ah?

Does the computer really adjust charging voltage or anything else based on age of the battery or Ah?

I recall seeing a 105Ah replacement for the Macan which might be nice if you can be assured there is no issue.
 
I have this same question. Interstate is an excellent brand of car battery. 95Ah is better than 92 Ah.
It would almost certainly be a good fit, even if the Bottom of the battery case lacked the same lip as on the OEM Varta to secure it, I'm fairly certain the top strap or metal bar would suffice.

The big question remains, how do you register it?

I've asked the following question in several threads w/o a reply:

If you hook up a CTEK battery maintainer, b4 you swap battery, the car will not be w/o power.
So, maybe you can "fool" the computer & it will not "know" that the battery has been changed & there will be no reason to register?

But maybe the computer will not properly charge or maintain the new battery since it thinks it is a 4-5 year old Varta 92Ah while it really is a brand new Interstate 95Ah?

Does the computer really adjust charging voltage or anything else based on age of the battery or Ah?

I recall seeing a 105Ah replacement for the Macan which might be nice if you can be assured there is no issue.
You ask "Does the computer really adjust charging voltage or anything else based on age of the battery or Ah?"

The answer that has been explained to me is "yes". If you try to fool the ECU by keeping 12V across the system while you change to a new battery without registering it, you can be shortening the life of the new battery. The ECU will think it should tell the charging system that it needs to deliver a charge appropriate for an aged battery rather than a new one. Not good for the new battery. It appears that this new technology is more important than before with the proliferation of AGM batteries and engine start/stop activation.

Similar to this is that modern Porsches and BMWs (and likely others as well) no longer have mechanically driven water pumps. Rather, the coolant temperature is determined by how the ECU controls the speed of an electric water pump. It's becoming more and more difficult to be a shade tree mechanic without adding computers and scanners to our toolboxes.

:(:nerd:
 
1. I don't use engine start/stop feature so that's better for the battery and driving. LOL
BTW, my 4-year old OEM battery is like new at 14.7v.

2. If you don't register the new battery, it probably won't harm the new battery except for maybe undercharging. That's ok with me if I can change it at a fraction of the cost dealer charges.
 
Registering The Battery

There are some things to do yourself - other things need a specialist.
Any good Porsche mechanic (Indy) will answer the registration question.
May not need a dealer

Never be afraid to ask -- and defer to a higher power
 
Registering The Battery

There are some things to do yourself - other things need a specialist.
Any good Porsche mechanic (Indy) will answer the registration question.
May not need a dealer

Never be afraid to ask -- and defer to a higher power
No, battery registration does not need to be done by a dealer. But it does require a proper scanner. Same for BMWs.
 
No, battery registration does not need to be done by a dealer. But it does require a proper scanner. Same for BMWs.
It needs to be registered with PIWIS. Around $18K for a yearly lease unless you can find a knockoff doing it. No, it doesn't have to be done by a dealer. An indy can do it. Some buy the equipment.
 
Macan GTS 2017 model 72,500km in 3 years and I haven’t had any battery issue yet, knock on the wood but I’ll get it checked next time I go to the dealer and I’ll keep you guys posted.
 
No, battery registration does not need to be done by a dealer. But it does require a proper scanner. Same for BMWs.
It needs to be registered with PIWIS. Around $18K for a yearly lease unless you can find a knockoff doing it. No, it doesn't have to be done by a dealer. An indy can do it. Some buy the equipment.
See the video in post number 24 above for an example of aftermarket equipment that will do the job properly.
 
It needs to be registered with PIWIS. Around $18K for a yearly lease unless you can find a knockoff doing it. No, it doesn't have to be done by a dealer. An indy can do it. Some buy the equipment.
You do not need to have access to the PIWIS (very expensive) as there are less expensive scanners available that claim to be able to register a Porsche battery, retract the electric rear brakes for service, reset the oil service light, etc. One of these scanners that was recommended to me is the iCarsoft POR V2.0 (https://www.icarsoft.us/Product/s-319-iCarsoft_POR_V2.html). Their tech rep assures me by email that it will work with all Porsches, including our Macans. The listed price is $260. Maybe not a bad investment in the long run.

Note: I have no business relationship with this product.
 
It needs to be registered with PIWIS. Around $18K for a yearly lease unless you can find a knockoff doing it. No, it doesn't have to be done by a dealer. An indy can do it. Some buy the equipment.
You do not need to have access to the PIWIS (very expensive) as there are less expensive scanners available that claim to be able to register a Porsche battery, retract the electric rear brakes for service, reset the oil service light, etc. One of these scanners that was recommended to me is the iCarsoft POR V2.0 (https://www.icarsoft.us/Product/s-319-iCarsoft_POR_V2.html). Their tech rep assures me by email that it will work with all Porsches, including our Macans. The listed price is $260. Maybe not a bad investment in the long run.

Note: I have no business relationship with this product.
Before spending the dollars on that, you might want to do a search here on the form as similar equipment has been discussed a number of times in the past.

If I recall correctly, the results with icarsoft have been hit or miss, and it has worked for some and failed for others. But what you are referring to might not be the exact same model or version number.
 
Before spending the dollars on that, you might want to do a search here on the form as similar equipment has been discussed a number of times in the past.

If I recall correctly, the results with icarsoft have been hit or miss, and it has worked for some and failed for others. But what you are referring to might not be the exact same model or version number.
This is the latest model (V02) and has been recommended by folks on Rennlist who seem knowledgeable. I just bought a new one on ebay for $149. When I get to use it, I will report on it.
 
Well.... as a follow up to my earlier posts....

The results... a failure - was my experiment

-------------------------------------------------------------

Soooo
as I posted earlier, I bought a 2016 'S' in February...

Car had just 4,300 miles and was an early 2016.... off lease late 2018 after 3 yrs

I only drove it a week... then parked it w/ a solar charger until yesterday.... 2 mos +/- and a bit

DEAD BATTERY!!!!

The Roadside boys were there in 1/2 hour , jumped the car and I went to the dealer.
Excellent service

VERDICT
battery cannot be revived.
after almost 4 yrs in service and so few miles it has not had an easy life (dealer talking)

1/ not enough miles driven to keep battery up to snuff
2/ straight old age factor
3/ solar trickle charger not providing enough juice in cold weather - just barely keeping
not really charging - during my storage period

My Maserati had electrical issues which translate to battery issues.... big time
Some Ferrari and Maserati batteries are DOA arriving in the USA... F-M dealer told me

Porsche Tech also said there is a HUGE difference between a locked & unlocked car in battery draw....
Lock it every time !! Severe reduction... never zero (as we all know)

Sooo- again.
New AGM battery $500 + about $300 for all the diagnostics

They will also upgrade my radio software.

Luckily for me- the dealer is right around the corner
I am a big fan of Indy's... but realize a dealer can be a necessity

I'm thinking I should have stuck with my bulletproof Grand Cherokee
Big Hemi (indestructible)...bigger Lithium battery under the passenger seat

I trickled it for 4-5-6 mos and it fired every time for 6 yrs... same trickler

Always lock, always trickle
Tech said 2 weeks might be the tops... he couldn't really say

I might be a seller.....

Like women- if they're too fussy.... move on - move out
no matter how pretty they are
hahaha
 
...
Porsche Tech also said there is a HUGE difference between a locked & unlocked car in battery draw....
Lock it every time !! Severe reduction... never zero (as we all know)
...
First of all, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles.

Second, maybe I missed this along the way: are you (and possibly others) saying that the car draws less juice when it's locked (as opposed to being left unlocked)? If so, I had no idea this was the case.

When my wife and I fly someplace for a week or so, we leave the Macan UNlocked in the (locked) garage, take the Camry to the cheap terminal-shuttle lot, and leave that car locked in the lot for a week. Are you saying that it would be less taxing on the Macan's battery if we were to lock it during those weeks (not that we've ever had a problem when we came back)? Should we lock the car overnight, while it's in the garage, to be kind to the battery?
 
maybe I missed this along the way: are you (and possibly others) saying that the car draws less juice when it's locked (as opposed to being left unlocked)? If so, I had no idea this was the case.
Always lock the car. That way, it goes to sleep after a certain time. If not locked, it doesn't sleep.
 
Always lock the car. That way, it goes to sleep after a certain time. If not locked, it doesn't sleep.
Hmm, I had not thought of that scenario, but I have a question about what is "active" when the car (any car) is locked? The little LEDs that blink, I guess, and the alarm being "armed"? Might help if 360 cameras were on some kind of a motion sensor.
Again, just wondering what is drawing current
 
Yes... I too - stood to attention when I heard that today - an AHA moment

I knew when I bought this low miles car that there would be some problems
I didn't anticipate the battery - but was prepared for something.

Low miles/no use for 3 yrs creates issues too...
Medium is better perhaps
but we all sucker for the 'cream puff'

Not really a problem... I'm not in deep here....
Traded right - bought right

I expect I could out almost even.....
and I might look for the exit

First, I'll look to rent a garage !!!!
 
Hmm, I had not thought of that scenario, but I have a question about what is "active" when the car (any car) is locked? The little LEDs that blink, I guess, and the alarm being "armed"? Might help if 360 cameras were on some kind of a motion sensor.
Again, just wondering what is drawing current
I know for a fact that the air suspension will adjust if you're loading or unloading the car. Sometimes it just does it to impress a client that is standing near the car. :laugh:
 
Always lock the car. That way, it goes to sleep after a certain time. If not locked, it doesn't sleep.
Hmm, I had not thought of that scenario, but I have a question about what is "active" when the car (any car) is locked? The little LEDs that blink, I guess, and the alarm being "armed"? Might help if 360 cameras were on some kind of a motion sensor.
Again, just wondering what is drawing current
I have the same question as David. I just spent some quality time with the owner's manual (pages 84 ... and then 315 ...), and could not find any recommendation to lock the car.

Regarding a sort of "sleep," I do know that with our car, after half an hour or so (I keep meaning to time this) of just sitting there -- turned off, but unlocked (or locked, for that matter) -- the clock puts the hands straight up, rather than keeping time. (This spin-around-on-wakeup is actually one of my favorite tricks that the car does, and when showing off the car, I tell newbies to keep an eye on the clock, while I open a door.)

If any of this matters, our car has Entry & Drive, but does not have Connect, or Nav, or any of those sorts of electronic communication add-on goodies -- we put all our discretionary funds into leather and thermal glass. Oh, and the car does not have PASM or any other suspension upgrades.

So, can anyone provide a list (or direct me to one) of the parasitic draw items that are eliminated when you lock the car?
 
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