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I just performed this procedure on my Macan. Is not as straight forward as just adding 20mm to whatever the original coding is. The best approach is to perform a baseline calibration, by measuring the actual distance from wheel center to fender in mm. That will reset the calibration to baseline. Then redo the calibration by measuring again and then adding +20mm to each measurement to lower by 20mm. That will ensure that all measurements are exact.

Basically the dealer or repair shop just needs to go into the air suspension control module with the PIWIS and add 20 millimeters to your current suspension settings input by the factory, you have to add to the number on the Macan to make the car go lower. They may try to subtract because this it how it works on the Cayenne and Panamera, but the Macan is different.

Here is an example of what they would do, these numbers are arbitrary, so do not use them in your own car.

Left Front original coding 414, they would add 20 to make it 434
Right Front original coding 416, they would add 20 to make it 436
Left Rear original coding 418, they would add 20 to make it 438
Right Rear original coding 414, they would add 20 to make it 434.

This is basically the logic behind it and these numbers do not mean anything, so do not input them into the car, I have no idea what your factory settings are as each car may be slightly different, they are set at the factory based upon many different parameters.

Also do this at you own risk, as I have no clue on how this will affect your warranty or the service life of the air suspension.

In my opinion, the car actually would look better if you lower the front by 10mm more than the rear, because of the shape of the wheel arches, sometimes the Macan looks as if it is squatting in the back.

Also 20mm is less than and inch and to be honest, it will not even look like you have lowered the car.
 
@Cheshi143 Does this appear to be the same thing?

V16.2 Piwis Tester II Diagnostic Tool For Porsche With CF30 Laptop

If so, I feel a little bit robbed at buying the Cargraphics lowering module, if for a lower price I could just set the height AND modify other things like you are suggesting.

Hello,friend i found you recommend link is invalid,and i ask them now the version you mention is out of stock.
And now the best replacement is this one-->Porsche PIWIS 3 with Original Driver 240G SSD on DELL E7450 4GB Laptop
 
Today I ventured a little bit into the engineering menu of the PIWIS, which as we all know is in German.

I found Goggle Translate app very helpful, when using the camera and active translation.

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Select your language and thenPress on camera icon...
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PIWIS II in engineering mode (German):
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Looking at the computer screen through my phone with Google Translate. Much better than writing the words in the translator.
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I successfully activated the automatic mirror folding option...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Today I ventured a little bit into the engineering menu of the PIWIS, which as we all know is in German.

I found Goggle Translate app very helpful, when using the camera and active translation.

Image


Select your language and thenPress on camera icon...
Image


PIWIS II in engineering mode (German):
Image



Looking at the computer screen through my phone with Google Translate. Much better than writing the words in the translator.
Image


I successfully activated the automatic mirror folding option...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cool! Where did you source the PIWIS?
 
I now see why lowering with a Piwis possibly fails in certain cases.. sorry I have to correct this old thread to prevent misery.

First of all, yes you have to add the desired height difference. This works the same for a 958 Cayenne btw, so pls don't substract for any of the cars.

Secondly, the stored coding values don't mean a lot. If anyone takes those for granted and simply uses those stored values and adds some milimeters, you'll never get to same levels on all 4 wheels. I suspect this is the root cause for failure for the ones who had trouble....

The procedure is very simple: Measure the ACTUAL values of your car (just forget the stored ones), which are the measured vertical distance between wheel center and fender line (car has to stand on an even surface, of course..) and just add whatever lowering value you want. For a Macan, 32mm seem to work fine (while on a 958 this already makes the entire suspension more stiff). I have not checked any lower values, but for a GTS -32mm also seem to work, so around -40mm for any other model should be ok.

Enter those ACTUAL values plus, say, 30mm into your Piwis and calibrate - done. The suspension will adjust itself 30mm lower. Done. Easy, Quick & Cheap.

Getting back to stock height: Just enter the ACTUAL values MEASURED without any modification to them with Piwis and the car will calibrate itself back to stock ride height. Even easier, this is the standard height calibration procedure.

If a shop does not get this right - change the shop!

Basically the dealer or repair shop just needs to go into the air suspension control module with the PIWIS and add 20 millimeters to your current suspension settings input by the factory, you have to add to the number on the Macan to make the car go lower. They may try to subtract because this it how it works on the Cayenne and Panamera, but the Macan is different.

Here is an example of what they would do, these numbers are arbitrary, so do not use them in your own car.

Left Front original coding 414, they would add 20 to make it 434
Right Front original coding 416, they would add 20 to make it 436
Left Rear original coding 418, they would add 20 to make it 438
Right Rear original coding 414, they would add 20 to make it 434.

This is basically the logic behind it and these numbers do not mean anything, so do not input them into the car, I have no idea what your factory settings are as each car may be slightly different, they are set at the factory based upon many different parameters.

Also do this at you own risk, as I have no clue on how this will affect your warranty or the service life of the air suspension.

In my opinion, the car actually would look better if you lower the front by 10mm more than the rear, because of the shape of the wheel arches, sometimes the Macan looks as if it is squatting in the back.

Also 20mm is less than and inch and to be honest, it will not even look like you have lowered the car.
 
Thanks @Ray_S. I believe that in a suspension lowering thread it is noted that values were to be added to the current PIWIS
values when attempting to lower the suspension.

Apparently this was forgotten over time. One might think that dealership technicians would know about this, but apparently not.

Good info!
 
There is a Torque graph as well.
Yes, I activated those features as well... I don’t see much use to it, but it’s there and what the heck... I activated them. The G-Force meter is actually very cool though.

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Also the automatic mirror retract, when pressing lock on the remote.
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Now that my Macan is out of warranty, I started making a few modifications, and having fun with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, I activated those features as well... I don’t see much use to it, but it’s there and what the heck... I activated them. The G-Force meter is actually very cool though.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Also the automatic mirror retract, when pressing lock on the remote.
Image


Now that my Macan is out of warranty, I started making a few modifications, and having fun with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a 2019 Panamera loaner right now... the G Force display is available by default... it's a shame it's not that way for the Macan.
 
Can you make any sense of the graphs....why would they have made these ?
No. They are kind of silly. I guess the curve describe the standard performance/torque curves for the Macan vs engine RPM. These curves are fixed (do not change) and do not display any value in the vertical axis. The only thing that changes is the RPM dot. So, not sure how to interpret these.
 
I did those changes as well, mirror retract etc. Most interesting is the expert menu activation since it shows also values you cannot display anywhere else..

AdBlue level as an example (last for another 32k km in this case, freshly filled it up)

231745
 
While those display functions are nice to have, the real fun started with my retrofits:

1. OEM backup cam
2. Upgrade PDLS to PDLS+
3. heated steering wheel (this one was the toughest I did)
 
While those display functions are nice to have, the real fun started with my retrofits:

1. OEM backup cam
2. Upgrade PDLS to PDLS+
3. heated steering wheel (this one was the toughest I did)

Cool. Mine are:

1. Front Spoiler (addition of the front spoiler - this was fun) --> Suncoast Sport front spoiler DIY

2. Painted my corroded undercarriage (OK, this was not a mod, but I had fun) --> Undercarriage Corrosion after 5 harsh Winters

3. Lowering the suspension by 20mm (which I did when I repaired my air suspension - very proud of this one... the dealer got it all wrong with the diagnosis saying it was a bad compressor - through my own diagnosis I determined it was a bad air bag - rear left - which I replaced myself - then I refilled the system with high purity N2 using PIWIS) --> Air Suspension Problems

4. CarPlay Retrofit (installed a module that added CarPlay to my PCM3.1) --> Retrofit 2015 with Carplay

5. Audio upgrade (in the middle of replacing crappy bose speakers with better ones... replaced all tweeters, center channel, front door midrange and subwoofer - front door woofer, rear door 3-way component kit and surround speakers are on their way - spacers / special fabrication required - this one is even more fun) --> Macan BOSE to BURMESTER Speaker Swap

6. Flat6 Motorsport wheel spacers: 10mm front / 12mm rear.

7. Pedal Commander: addition of pedal commander for better throttle response.
 
Great.

I did not mention the spacers (simple thing) and the CarPlay retrofit my dealer did.

CarPlay for a PCM4 can only be activated by a dealer (unless you can get a SWAP code and activate with Piwis yourself). It‘s already installed in a PCM4, so no HW required, just the activation code. I made the dealer activate it at the time i bought it. Only possible for MY17 cars (PCM4 or beyond).

I‘ve seen several folks retrofitting this external module to PCM3.1 systems, all are happy as you seem to be :)
 
Great.

I did not mention the spacers (simple thing) and the CarPlay retrofit my dealer did.

CarPlay for a PCM4 can only be activated by a dealer (unless you can get a SWAP code and activate with Piwis yourself). It‘s already installed in a PCM4, so no HW required, just the activation code. I made the dealer activate it at the time i bought it. Only possible for MY17 cars (PCM4 or beyond).

I‘ve seen several folks retrofitting this external module to PCM3.1 systems, all are happy as you seem to be :)
Forgot about my spacers too. added.

Those spacers certainly make the Macan look that more aggressive. Love them.
 
41 - 60 of 1,596 Posts