I have wanted a dash cam for some time, but I wasn't going to have an exposed wire running to my lighter or a long wire tucked into my trim running down to my fuse box. Then I found a DIY video (below) a fellow Macaneer posted about the $200 FitCamX and I was sold!

It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.

I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
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How does it work ?
any battery drain ?
good capture of the video ?

 

So far so good. I just checked my car in the garage unlocked and the cam was off. I locked the car and the cam stayed off. Supposedly, it has a g meter that wakes it up. I gave my car a shoulder shove and no cam light.

 

Looks so much cleaner than Porsche's own offering.

 

Really? I guess I haven’t seen Porsche’s setup, but the plastic close out that is replaced by this camera seems tailor made for an OEM cam

 

I like this ...

 

Do you have a model number?

 

Model B-For 95B/970/958 (92A, E2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0986XDDYZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

None of them available.........

 

In stock and ready to ship....
Fitcamx Dash Cam for Porsche

 

Thx !

 

Found it on Amazon UK but not available - other cars but not the Model B ...

 

What's the power draw on this thing, and should anyone be remotely concerned if it will overload the circuit?

 

For the price, fit and features please tell me why I shouldn't buy this unit. Thinking of a front and rear cam with biggest SD card.

 

And that, sir, is exactly why I shared the info. 😃 I would have bought mine a long time ago if I knew about it. Cheers!

 

thinking the same...... I also have LCA, LKA, Blah , blah, all cams...it will fit ?

 

It says Model B is only for Macan (95B) MY2015-2021, so does this not work for 2022? Anyone tried to install this on their 2022 Macan? Looks like the OP installed it on 2022.

 

It’s working great on my 2022

 

anyone find a deal in Canada? best price? Where?

 

Great! And is the video quality good enough to read license plates clearly?

 

I am so glad you asked. I went out to my car to download a video from the SD card to post and realized that the DEFAULT capture resolution is 2K. I bumped it up to 4K. We shall see.

 

If you are interested in 4K front + 1080p rear, buying it from Fitcamx's website will save you about $38 compared to Amazon because of their BF sale and no tax. They also seem to ship to Canada. One thing to keep in mind is the shipping will take a couple of weeks as it's coming from China.

 

So I'm in contact with the supplier on Amazon UK to get it listed as available ... I'll update for anyone in the UK to note. Obvioulsy we won't get the cheap prices you guys have in US ... sigh.

Actually on the Fitcamx site its available and comes to £155 (with BD10 code) before shipping.

 

That YouTube video though ...

 

Do we think there would be any potential issues piggy-backing off another electrical line fuse? Anyone know the current draw when the cam is recording footage?

 

Anyone have recommendations for a professional in the Greater Toronto Area to install the dash cam (front and rear)? I tried to remove the dome light over the weekend to connect the power source to the dash cam, but wasn't able to and was scared I would break it.

 

Try your favorate high end audio guy.. they will likely be the best ones to take trim off and replace it without breaking anything ..

 

I ordered mine today..

 

Ditto, just ordered the front / rear camera system for my 2022 Macan.

The manufacturer requested me to provide an image of my rear view mirror shroud to confirm fitment.

 

Ditto, just ordered the front / rear camera system for my 2022 Macan.

The manufacturer requested me to provide an image of my rear view mirror shroud to confirm fitment.

same

 

Just received tracking info.

The cameras are shipping from China, so it will be a while before this arrives to my Florida location.

 

Just discovered that the camera system only includes the short cable that gets power from the dome light, to only be active during vehicle operation.

They also offer this fuse box power cord to permit camera operation while the vehicle is parked.

They ship VERY quickly, so a new order was just placed to order this fuse box power cable.

 

Got the front/rear Fitcamx and installed it myself. The process is fairly simple but the difficult part is removing trim as I was afraid to break clips. I did order extra clips for the overhead console but ended up not needing them. The camera mount (2 piece) had no cutout for the 2 wires to exit the mount. I spent probably 30+ minutes trying but finally gave up. So I ended up cutting two small notches on the camera mount to allow the wire to pass and for the two pieces of the mount to close correctly. Routing the wire to the rear was fairly straightforward - no trim removed. Once the wire is at the rear is where it gets tough. Fishing the wire through the rubber grommets required zip ties and duct tape. And then you have to fish the wire into the upper panel of the rear lid to get the the window. Just watch for the defroster wire as it is just soldered in place. I did not remove the trim completely. Just unclipped the side facing the window and was able to fish it through. If you dont care if the wire shows you could skip all the steps.

Looks better than the factory camera and quality seems good. Hope it lasts

 

Can you provide a bit more description on how you routed your wire from front to back without removing any trims? I'm about to install them as well. Thanks!

 

Got the front/rear Fitcamx and installed it myself. The process is fairly simple but the difficult part is removing trim as I was afraid to break clips. I did order extra clips for the overhead console but ended up not needing them. The camera mount (2 piece) had no cutout for the 2 wires to exit the mount. I spent probably 30+ minutes trying but finally gave up. So I ended up cutting two small notches on the camera mount to allow the wire to pass and for the two pieces of the mount to close correctly. Routing the wire to the rear was fairly straightforward - no trim removed. Once the wire is at the rear is where it gets tough. Fishing the wire through the rubber grommets required zip ties and duct tape. And then you have to fish the wire into the upper panel of the rear lid to get the the window. Just watch for the defroster wire as it is just soldered in place. I did not remove the trim completely. Just unclipped the side facing the window and was able to fish it through. If you dont care if the wire shows you could skip all the steps.

Looks better than the factory camera and quality seems good. Hope it lasts

is the power from the overhead always on for the parked feature? Would the camera record if my '21 Macan GTS was side swiped like this weekend in the parking lot? It was a bumper kiss into my passenger door, but hard enough to dent and scrape paint down to metal. People suck.

 

this is the front runner right now …..PASSIVE RADAR for the win.

Thank you... You helped make my decision.. I really like the fitcamx integration and price point, but leery that it is too good to be true. Probably is. U3000 it is!

 

Thank you... You helped make my decision.. I really like the fitcamx integration and price point, but leery that it is too good to be true. Probably is. U3000 it is!

The only hesitation I have is that I have clear tint on my windshield. It is amazing here in Texas and GREATLY reduces the direct heat coming in on you while driving into the sun.

 

Finished my install of front and rear cam. I also pulled the upper part of the A-pillar to put the cable behind the airbad as recommended for safety, which wasn't much difficult to do. Here are some of the notable findings:

• The dome light/control panel piece has 4 clips (L/R front and L/R rear). If you pop all of them out, there is a hinge in the back which will keep the part from dangling with only cables. Somewhat useful when routing wires as you don't have to hold the part up although I think the cables are strong enough to keep the part hanging without issues.
• I bent the right front clip when pulling the part like it said in the video that was provided by nynicks8. However, you can bend it back into the original shape. I took both front clips out and used the unbent one as a template to bend the right one back into shape (using a hammer to straighten it out first and plier to bend it back) and it worked just fine. If you want an easier route, buy the clips before doing the install. I didn't have extra clips.
• You can route the cables out of the Fitcamx housing into the dome light/control panel piece through space on top of the rear of the Fitcamx housing as there's enough gap. No need to drill holes or make a slot for this.
• When going around the A-pillar, pop out the small cap that says "Airbag" and use a star allen key to unscrew a screw that's hold the A-pillar on top. Then pull the top of the trim to pop the top portion out. You can then route the cable BEHIND the airbag and continue on.
• When going through the top part (between A and B, B and C pillar) make sure the cable is completely hidden above the fabric root liner, and don't just hide it under the rubber seal.
• Once you get to the back around the rear hatch, the cleanest install is to route the cable through the black rubber grommet that connects the top of the rear roof and the rear hatch. I chose the right side grommet. Use the zip tie method (gotta be a long one at least 12" or longer). Pull the fabric liner down enough from the back to have some room to push the zip tie into the bottom opening of the rubber grommet. Also, pop the rear top plastic trim on the rear hatch enough to see inside and work. There is a plastic clip in the center that snaps off when pulled toward you. Then there's another clip to the left and right, about 6-10" from the side/edge of the trim. In order to loosen the trim panel and pull it out a bit, you have to push the panel up (when the rear hatch is open, towards the glass) beccause there are hooks that need to be cleared before being pulled out a bit. Now, push the zip tie all the way through and you can see it come out from the other side of the black rubber grommet opening in the hatch through the gap you made by pulling the plastic trim out. Use duct tape to wrap the camera cable to the end of the zip tie in the bottom opening of the rubber grommet tightly and start pulling the zip tie from the top. You gotta pull and jerk HARD to get the cable with its thick plastic piece to go through the grommet. It seemed impossible to me initially but it did pass through to the other side after about 30 mins of agony. Then the rest is just tugging the cable enough to reach the camera location, hooking it up, hiding the rest of the cable and that's it.
• Lastly, if you have a VPN on your phone, the cam will not be recognized by the Fitcamx app so make sure it's off when connecting to the cam.

 

Thank you for such a wonderful guide/DIY.
Can you share what fuses you tapped into for the ACC and BATT? I used A3/Homelink for ACC and B7/Horn for BATT but facing issues with range of the remote( need to be very close to the car to unlock or lock it) and I'm wondering if it's the BATT causing the issue since the extra fuse I placed in there is 5 Amp instead of 10 Amp that was already there so perhaps less current flowing through the circuit?

Thanks

Finished my install of front and rear cam. I also pulled the upper part of the A-pillar to put the cable behind the airbad as recommended for safety, which wasn't much difficult to do. Here are some of the notable findings:

• The dome light/control panel piece has 4 clips (L/R front and L/R rear). If you pop all of them out, there is a hinge in the back which will keep the part from dangling with only cables. Somewhat useful when routing wires as you don't have to hold the part up although I think the cables are strong enough to keep the part hanging without issues.
• I bent the right front clip when pulling the part like it said in the video that was provided by nynicks8. However, you can bend it back into the original shape. I took both front clips out and used the unbent one as a template to bend the right one back into shape (using a hammer to straighten it out first and plier to bend it back) and it worked just fine. If you want an easier route, buy the clips before doing the install. I didn't have extra clips.
• You can route the cables out of the Fitcamx housing into the dome light/control panel piece through space on top of the rear of the Fitcamx housing as there's enough gap. No need to drill holes or make a slot for this.
• When going around the A-pillar, pop out the small cap that says "Airbag" and use a star allen key to unscrew a screw that's hold the A-pillar on top. Then pull the top of the trim to pop the top portion out. You can then route the cable BEHIND the airbag and continue on.
• When going through the top part (between A and B, B and C pillar) make sure the cable is completely hidden above the fabric root liner, and don't just hide it under the rubber seal.
• Once you get to the back around the rear hatch, the cleanest install is to route the cable through the black rubber grommet that connects the top of the rear roof and the rear hatch. I chose the right side grommet. Use the zip tie method (gotta be a long one at least 12" or longer). Pull the fabric liner down enough from the back to have some room to push the zip tie into the bottom opening of the rubber grommet. Also, pop the rear top plastic trim on the rear hatch enough to see inside and work. There is a plastic clip in the center that snaps off when pulled toward you. Then there's another clip to the left and right, about 6-10" from the side/edge of the trim. In order to loosen the trim panel and pull it out a bit, you have to push the panel up (when the rear hatch is open, towards the glass) beccause there are hooks that need to be cleared before being pulled out a bit. Now, push the zip tie all the way through and you can see it come out from the other side of the black rubber grommet opening in the hatch through the gap you made by pulling the plastic trim out. Use duct tape to wrap the camera cable to the end of the zip tie in the bottom opening of the rubber grommet tightly and start pulling the zip tie from the top. You gotta pull and jerk HARD to get the cable with its thick plastic piece to go through the grommet. It seemed impossible to me initially but it did pass through to the other side after about 30 mins of agony. Then the rest is just tugging the cable enough to reach the camera location, hooking it up, hiding the rest of the cable and that's it.
• Lastly, if you have a VPN on your phone, the cam will not be recognized by the Fitcamx app so make sure it's off when connecting to the cam.

 

That makes sense. Then I wonder what the issue is that is causing the remote range to be far shorter. I tried the other remote as well. Same issue. Perhaps I could use a different fuse to see if that helps.

Screenshot of the booklet fusebox page below. I did get the Porsche pre wiring but did not use tequipment.