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Engine Control Fault - Driving Permitted

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272K views 151 replies 81 participants last post by  Minou  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Today I received a warning while driving under heavy rain conditions: "fault of engine control system" - in yellow; the engine was not properly accelerating.

Contacted Porsche Service on the phone while still driving at reduced speed: they stated if it is a yellow warning, nothing particular to worry about (!?!).

Outcome: following Porsche service suggestions, had to stop the car, switch it off, wait 10 secs, and restart it. Luckily the warning disappeared and the car started back to perform properly.

Has anyone else experimented with the same situation?
 
#30 ·
Have a 2017 GTS with 46,000 miles. Got a warning "Engine Control Fault", Driving permitted, Consult dealer". Car was driving fine, no problems noted. Took it into the dealer and they had to replace 2 crankcase vent valves because they were leaking air. Tech showed me the part and it was plastic with a round diaphragm. Tech says he has seen this problem before but usually happens with higher mileage. My part failure was "premature". Part numbers 946-107-229-77 and 946-107-230-77. They sit underneath plastic engine cover so easy to access. Covered under warranty, parts would have cost $200 ($100 each) plus labor. While I was there, they also performed ALA2 Recall for Fuel Pump Cover. Picture of one of the valves attached. All is well:)

 
#38 ·
Got the same warning just last week: ‘18 Turbo w/32k miles.
 
#34 ·
Hey I just had this happen to my Macan. At about an hour of running it shuts off then refuses to start back up until its cooled down but the temp gauge is fine. Then, this time, it threw this error code.

Any idea on what this could be? Anyone have this issue?
 
#35 ·
I posted previously about this ENGINE CONTROL FAULT issue. When it first appeared, it had no performance related side effects. Eventually, I noticed it was laboring heavily in the lower gears, sputtering, but mostly in reverse, and only occasionally - it was not constant.

Originally, I tried something odd - i filled up with 87 octane and after about 10-20 miles, the fault went away. I finished that tank and did one more just like it. Once that was finished, I refilled with 93 octane. Within 1 day, the ENGINE CONTROL FAULT returned. It sort of feels like a rough idle or maybe slightly retarded timing - like if you were working on a classic car and didn't set the cam so it was rumbling - minus the rumble. Performance wise, the best way i can describe it is if you were driving manual and tried to start in 2nd gear. The issue goes away or is much less noticeable after 3rd gear, 25-30mph. Reversing out of a parking space though was at such a rough idle it almost felt like it was going to stall out but didn't. That got me to thinking - how can I resolve this? The first thing I tested was to use the car in manual mode while at a low speed. It immediately was more responsive and didn't sputter as much. I tried with the paddle shifters and the gear shifter, both methods all but eliminated the rough performance.

I'm curious about OP's fix though. If this were a fuel/air mixture issue, it would present either way, regardless of what shifting mode was in use. Now that I have isolated this to something that is more noticeable in automatic vs paddle mode, It leads me more to think it's a tranny issue, possibly vacuum related or computer related with the shift points. I won't even pretend to guess how all the electronics interact or how to resolve these things. Give me a 350 big block and I will tear it down and put it all back together blindfolded. All the electronic and computerized parts give me a headache.

I had a Land Rover years ago that decided it wouldn't start one day. I turned the key and just got a solenoid click. then hot air started blowing while the AC was on, radio was glitching and screen says Transmission Control failure. The car had good battery voltage and wasn't even able to start or turn over. After exhaustive research it turned out to be a $7 plastic switch that clips onto the brake pedal to turn on the brake lights. Yes a $7 plastic light switch (which I did not even need a screwdriver to replace), took down an entire rover. The vehicle was completely undrive-able. I couldn't even shift into neutral to get it onto a flatbed. It had to be dragged (kicking and screaming) out of my driveway locked in park. LOL. All that tech (and all this Macan tech are great when working, but you can see when even the slightest thing goes wrong, you're SOL.
 
#37 ·
AOS's meaning O2 sensor? I will check into getting those either way as I'm at 58k, wouldn't hurt.

Interesting - I did switch back to 93 oct and within about 10 miles the idle is now smooth in all gears, and in reverse. Really odd how it goes away like this - leads me to more of a timing issue. When it was presenting during auto shifting but not with paddle, I was more inclined to think it was a vacuum issue with the transmission. However, with different fuel, it cannot still be vacuum. Puzzling puzzle it is.
 
#40 ·
i had this problem yesterday and brought in to the dealer. They said it was turbo charger and needs to submit the report to Germany for further confirmation. Germany came back and confirmed my turbo charger needs to be replaced free as it is still under warranty. But, the lead time is a week or so....mine is macan 2.0 and 60K on it...
 
#50 ·
I got the same error yesterday. We just bought the car on Saturday. The dealer says it’s triggered by high altitude, he says Porsche is aware but doesn’t have a fix yet. My 41/2 year old Macan never had that show up.
 
#51 ·
For last few days, I have had an Engine Control Fault error at startup. I scheduled an appointment at the dealership in the AM. To prepare, I uninstalled my COBB Accessport. Before that process, I read errors using the Accessport and saw a Fuel Tank Leakage message. However after uninstall of the ECU flash, there was no error code at startup. Still plan to go to the dealer as I also need a second key programmed.

Does anyone have any advice/thoughts? My vehicle is a 2015 S with 67k miles. Only "performance" modification other than COBB is a set of AMS intake filters.

Thanks,
 
#55 ·
Dealer said no issues were found - there were a bunch of passive codes though. Another positive thing I learned is that Porsche is providing a warranty on Speed Sensors until July 28, 2025. Not sure if this applies to all years/models.
 
#56 ·
I had the same engine control fault problem plus few other indicators on my 2017 Macan S. The faults came on and disappeared in a day. They showed up again after a couple of months. Dealer said they were due to misfires. Said it could be spark plugs. But I pointed out that they were replace at a non dealer shop with OEM plugs. So he said it was radiator shutter which they fixed (Servomotor $252.70, Labor $586). All faults cleared. The faults showed up again a week later. Back to the dealer, this time it was either the spark plugs or the coils. I was told that the coils on the Macans rarely failed. So the spark plugs were replaced and the coils were reversed ($500). Faults cleared. Faults have returned! I have another appointment in a week.
At no time did the service advisor mention software update or reset!
Any ideas?
 
#58 ·
I had the same engine control fault problem plus few other indicators on my 2017 Macan S. The faults came on and disappeared in a day. They showed up again after a couple of months. Dealer said they were due to misfires. Said it could be spark plugs. But I pointed out that they were replace at a non dealer shop with OEM plugs. So he said it was radiator shutter which they fixed (Servomotor $252.70, Labor $586). All faults cleared. The faults showed up again a week later. Back to the dealer, this time it was either the spark plugs or the coils. I was told that the coils on the Macans rarely failed. So the spark plugs were replaced and the coils were reversed ($500). Faults cleared. Faults have returned! I have another appointment in a week.
At no time did the service advisor mention software update or reset!
Any ideas?
Are you actually paying them for these or it's under warranty? For me the errors were related to thermostat and my start/stop didn't work. Does it work for you?
 
#57 ·
No error messages since the last updated. Just returned from a road trip to Key West. Drove about 2,500 miles total. Went by Flat6 for a few mods and had the oil changed at a dealership in Florida ($500 ouch!). I hope no news is good news!
 
#59 ·
I had this message show up about 1,000 miles after I brought the car home from the dealer. Took it to a local dealer and they diagnosed it as a "short in the DMTL pump" and they ended up replacing the part. I've been involved with cars all my life and I have never heard of a DMTL pump until now, but apparently it measures something emmissions / fuel leakage related, and if the engine control module does not receive expected values it will trigger this fault. Car drove fine after the message by the way, and has driven fine ever since they replaced it (although not inspiring much confidence having to bring in a pretty much brand new car to the dealer). This is on a 2020 GTS by the way.
 
#60 ·
2018 GTS with 33,xxx miles- just got this fault today. Code reader displays P0456 Evaporative Emissions System - Small leak detected

First thing I checked was the gas cap, but that didn't clear the code. Car drove fine for most of the day but then went into limp mode later in the afternoon.
 
#61 ·
The error came back this morning so I purchased a code reader this afternoon. Same exact message. I just reset/deleted code and went for a spirited drive. No performance issues.

I have had two different dealerships assess the issue but have not found a solution. I will discuss with my indy mechanic when I get the car serviced again - I need to replace the serpentine belt and pulleys due to age. I now have 71,XXX miles after completing a trip to Key West from the Mid-Atlantic.
 
#63 ·
Based on your mileage, it appears you are under factory warranty. Do not erase any codes, yet. Take it to your Porsche dealer & have them tell you exactly what the code is & have them fix it.

If you have an OBD-II code reader, you can check it yourself to see if what the dealer tells you matches what you found out yourself.
 
#64 ·
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