1. A magnetic drain plug is going to capture any ferrous metal particles that may be present in the case/fluid.

2. Capturing ferrous particles does nothing about any water which may have been introduced into the transfer case.

3. It is my understanding the updated transfer case design has a different vent or vent tube design. Does this not resolve
the issue?

4. If someone does arrive at the Porsche dealer with water-damaged transfer case internals, changing the vent tube
(if that's the only update) would not address the internal damage that has already occurred. Since this is not a 'safety'
related issue, no recall has been issued. Porsche is dealing with the issues as they are reported on a case-by-case
basis.


Does anyone have photographs illustrating the external differences between the older and newer transfer cases?
Particularly, the vent tube implementation?

 

1. A magnetic drain plug is going to capture any ferrous metal particles that may be present in the case/fluid.

2. Capturing ferrous particles does nothing about any water which may have been introduced into the transfer case.

3. It is my understanding the updated transfer case design has a different vent or vent tube design. Does this not resolve
the issue?

4. If someone does arrive at the Porsche dealer with water-damaged transfer case internals, changing the vent tube
(if that's the only update) would not address the internal damage that has already occurred. Since this is not a 'safety'
related issue, no recall has been issued. Porsche is dealing with the issues as they are reported on a case-by-case
basis.


Does anyone have photographs illustrating the external differences between the older and newer transfer cases?
Particularly, the vent tube implementation?

Same vent but added internal baffles.

 

I have a 2017 Base Macan 2.0, are the steps the same?

 

To add, our 2015 S with about 80k miles started the jerking thing with TC, changed out the fluid myself with Motul DCT-F, took .68L, reused the drain plugs, took about 30 minutes at a cost of $20, immediately fixed the issue. Car now has 134k miles and gets beat on regularly, still going strong.

 

Nice for $134k miles on your 2015 S. I have a 2015 S too and hope it will be just like yours. The highest mileage I have driven on my cars was about 120k miles before I got rid of them.

 

It may be a good idea to change the TC fluid at the same schedule for the PDK fluid at 40k miles.

 

after reading the forum ... regarding the tc fluid change:

is it possible not to touch the drain plugs and do it all from the vent tube location ? extract all fluid and fill back in ?

regarding the arb 170112 differential axel breather kit . is this the correct part number to put instead of the standard vent tube of the transfer box ?

thank you

 

after reading the forum ... regarding the tc fluid change:

is it possible not to touch the drain plugs and do it all from the vent tube location ? extract all fluid and fill back in ?

regarding the arb 170112 differential axel breather kit . is this the correct part number to put instead of the standard vent tube of the transfer box ?

thank you

No you just drain the fluid, can’t do that through the vent tube. I got the arb diff breather kit, any one will work. I also had to use some pieces of hose and brass fittings. It is a universal kit that you have to make work with the macan.

 

Changed the TC fluid on '17 S last night along with routine engine oil/filter change. 30K miles. Easy peasy! Used Porsche TC fluid and new TC plugs. $86.

Thankfully the TC fluid I drained out looked good. No signs of water or emulsifcation. I extracted exactly 500ml. About half of the fluid drianed out of bottom drain hole. The other half I extracted with a 150ml syringe and a small diameter tube about 10" long through the check/fill hole. I ordered the syringes and catheters off Amazon in the medical section. They're handy to have around for extracting brake fluid or PS fluid (in my 987).

When I replaced the TC fluid I was only able to get about 250ml into the check/fill hole before it started to leak out. The remaining 250mI I filled though the breather valve tube on top.

Given the design of the rubber breather valve it's no wonder these TC's are failing. I don't think I will modify the breather valve with an ARB kit, but since new Porsche OEM breather valves are only $6 I think I will replace the breather valve every time I change the fluid. Breather valve part # 95834139300.

In the future I may consider using OEM Shell S-Tech OIL0005 (TF-0870) Fluid which is less than half the cost of the Porsche fluid... just on principle. $26 (1L) vs $53 (850ml).

 

Thanks for sharing your work plus the vent breather mod ttmacan. Great work!

Adding a comment from another thread, it seems that moisture in the fluid makes the friction surfaces "grabby".

So while the fluid might not look emulsified, it could still be contaminated to the extent that it wouldn't do its job. Given the loading, any change in the consistency or composition of the fluid could easily mess with its function. I think I'm right in saying that the fluid ttmacan drained out, looked burnt.

Tsloper asked above about some details of the brass fittings. I'm wondering if anyone can help with that? Also, does the breather take a right angled turn at the top where the hose is attached? Sometimes photos taken under cars can be very confusing when it's hard to know what is up and what is down, so to speak.

Interesting that Porsche have changed the interval for a fluid change to 20k. That certainly isn't mentioned in my original service manual but maybe that's going to be the key change for ridding us of the TC problem in the future?

I notice there's considerable discussion about TC fluid for Cayennes on the Renntech forum, "Alternative transfer case fluids" There a suggestion that even after replacing the fluid there can be residue left behind which needs flushing along with the proposal that Ravenol TF-0870 could be used for flushing, even if genuine Porsche fluid is best.

 

Interesting that Porsche have changed the interval for a fluid change to 20k. That certainly isn't mentioned in my original service manual but maybe that's going to be the key change for ridding us of the TC problem in the future?

Despite not have any adverse symptoms, I have just had my transfer case fluid replaced for free by my local OPC as it is apparently part of a new 'Service Campaign' (reference WLE9) for both Macan and Cayenne. I questioned whether it was based upon mileage or age, but the response was that it was based upon a certain range of VINs.

My car is a 2015 SD and had a new transfer case fitted in Feb 2018 at about 14000 miles. My car was actually at the OPC for a 111 point inspection as I have just extended my warranty from 5 to 7 years.

Note that I am in UK hence Service Campaigns may be different in the US. Also we have not had notice of the extended 7-year transfer case warranty that applies in the States.

 

^ The technician said it only took about 40 mins to change out the fluid, so it's certainly worth doing as 'preventive maintenance'. But I agree that once the symptoms show a new transfer case would seem the sensible solution.

 

I'm in the US, and I'm not ware of any formal Porsche campaigns, policies, decisions, or communications in the US that indicate Porsche has changed its recommended mileage interval for replacing TC fluid to 20K miles.... nor am I aware that Porsche extended the TC warranty to 7 years. Has Porsche put any of that in writing somewhere? Does anyone know?

I'm already planning to replace the the TC fluid every 20K, but I would love formal documentation that the warranty has been extended.

My '17S was serviced at the dealer to address campaign WLE9 (fuel leak risk) in May '20 and they did not replace the TC fluid under that campaign nor made any mention of it.

 

 

Thanks Designerweddingdj - where did you find that? Online or did Porsche send that to you?

 

Found it online its true though as mines in tomorrow with OPC for fluid change and if that doesnt solve the problem new transfer case free gratis confirmed by the service manager this is worldwide.

 

Inside the TC, a multi plate clutch.

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I bought my 2015 used. Never got a letter from Porsche. I wonder how it will go over if I need to get it replaced.

 

Send me a PM and I'll copy/paste the warranty extension to you so you can print it and put this in your folder for the glove box.

 

The TC extended warranty applies to the car, not a particular owner.

 

Inside, a clutch pack...

 

I have a 2017 base I purchased 3 months ago (44,000mi). PDK oil was changed at 38,000. I noticed an occassional hesitation/stutter when accelerating at lower speeds. 3rd or above not noticeable. Reading these forums I thought that maybe there is some transfer case issue starting to develop. I replaced the fluid this past weekend with Porsche fluid. When I removed the fill plug no fluid came out. I got around 300ml from the bottom drain plug. I suctioned out from the fill port but unfortunately did not clean out all the fluid from my extractor from when I did BMW differential change so I am not 100% sure exactly how much additional fluid was removed in total but I was sucking air. There was a little over 1l of fluid in the extractor, and the BMW diff holds a bit over 800ml , so I think around 200 was extracted..but I can't be 100% sure of the amount. The fluid was quite dark (pretty much black) and seemed a little thinner than the fresh oil. When filling I was able to get around 250ml of fresh oil in from fill hole until it started to spill out (which seems consistent with what others have noted). I then removed the vent cap and pumped in another 300ml (since some spilled out and gets stuck in pump tube I felt that would compensate). Over the past few days (16 miles round trip commute with several stops) I noticed it seems to have the same 'slipping' feeling and hesitations but maybe a bit more noticeable with the new fluid. I have seen different info on the volume of fluid, some say 500ml and others say 600ml. If it is truly 500 then maybe I have a little too much fluid (if I didn't get out as much of old as I thought) but if 600 maybe I have a slightly too little. Would those small over/under numbers cause this issue?

I am thinking of pulling the fill plug and seeing what happens, if I pull the fill plug and nothing drains out should I just squirt some in from that fill port until it starts to come out like when filling a differential?

I understand TC is covered on my car until Nov 2023 but I fear it will only really fail in Jan 2024 and I will be stuck. Hoping to keep it functioning OK until closer to warranty expires for replacement so it lasts past coverage expiration.

Thanks for being a great resource to a new-to-Porsche owner. There is great info here - and I read a lot of these forums before I bought my Macan.

 

I have a 2017 base I purchased 3 months ago (44,000mi). I noticed an occassional hesitation/stutter when accelerating at lower speeds. 3rd or above not noticeable. Reading these forums I thought that maybe there is some transfer case issue starting to develop. I replaced the fluid this past weekend with Porsche fluid. When I removed the fill plug no fluid came out. I got around 300ml from the bottom drain plug. I suctioned out from the fill port and unfortunately did not clean out the fluid from my BMW differential change so I am not 100% sure exactly how much additional fluid was removed in total but I was sucking air. The fluid was quite dark (pretty much black) and seemed a little thinner than the fresh oil. When filling I was able to get around 250ml of fresh oil in from fill hole until it started to spill out. I then removed the vent cap and pumped in another 300ml (since some spilled out and gets stuck in pump tube I felt that would compensate). Over the past few days (16 miles round trip commute with several stops) I noticed it seems to have those hesitations more frequently than before I changed the fluid and maybe a bit more noticeable. I have seen different info on the volume of fluid, some say 500ml and others say 600ml. If it is truly 500 then maybe I have a little too much fluid (if I didn't get out as much of old as I thought) but if 600 maybe I have a slightly too little. Would those small over/under numbers cause this issue?

I am thinking of pulling the fill and seeing what happens, if I pull the plug and nothing drains out should I just squirt some in from that fill port until it starts to come out like a differential? On Youtube a Cayenne guy swears by the Ravenol fluid but he said you need to do it multiple times to cure the issue.
I understand TC is covered on my car until Nov 2023 but I fear it will only really fail in Jan 2024 and I will be stuck,

I also notice something a little odd. When accelerating from a stop and shifting from 1st to 2nd it makes a little 'click/knock' noise from the rear. I thought that was related. However, when I went in Sport mode I heard the same click at that 1800/1900rpm range, but the shift 1-2 did not happen until 2100/2200. It is fairly subtle but don't hear it when changing any other gears.

Thanks for being a great resource to a new-to-Porsche owner. There is great info here - and I read a lot of these forums before I bought my Macan.

I kind of cringe when I read these things.

 

you should watch P-Tech do the service,

you may have to cut paste..

 

you should watch P-Tech do the service,

you may have to cut paste..

Thanks, I have seen these - but have not found any videos that cover the transfer case itself on Macan (many out there on Cayennes but that looks like a different unit)...have seen a few pages from shop manual in this thread which are helpful but leave a few unanswered questions on whether the proper level is at the bottom of the fill plug hole or a specific volume.

 

I read quite a bit in this thread and bought the TC fluid, but haven’t changed it yet. If some say the fluid should be 500ml and others say 600ml, then the average might be a good value to use.

 

From what I have read here temperature is important. Another is the amount of fluid it takes to renew varies, which tells me the amount must be to the lower of the hole you are putting it in.

 

 

Amount needed to refill depends on if you are using this extractor to get all the oil out. I removed tc so I got all the oil out. The instructions clearly state to add only 500ml.

 

You could also fill to bottom of hole and go for a drive to warm up the oil temp and then pull the plug to allow the excess to drain.

 

That’s a good point. I do assume the TC operation is quite normal in this regard, i.e., no significant loss of fluid, etc.

Perhaps it’s advisable to add a bit more fresh fluid to account for the minor loss of old fluid during its service life.

 

Mine took .58l from bone dry to bottom of inspection hole. I took it for a drive and then pulled the plug and some came out. After that checked when cold and it was a bit below the bottom of inspection hole. I would say as a guess as long as your close to the bottom of the inspection hole it should be ok.

 

Either way I would say if your changing the fluid your already ahead of the game and as long as it’s close to the bottom of inspection plug you should be good.[emoji3]

 

Thanks ttmacan,wwhal and jzwu. I will pull fill plug and use my borescope this time to see what is going on in there for level. Temps here have dropped quite a bit in the last week, mid 60's when I did fill, now in 40's, so I will take that in consideration. I am 100% confident at least 500-525ml got filled in. I had a pump on the oil bottle which had 850ml, level on bottle is now a little over 300ml and I know I spilled a few tablespoons when filling from bottom hole before filling from top vent. If I ever do this again I will be more careful on being able to accurately measure the volume extracted and alleviate the uncertainty.