Repair was done by Porsche dealership I bought Macan from.
Full cost brake down for parts in U.S. Dollars

Front:
2 x Brake disk 184.61
Z set brake 260.73
2 x Anti rattle clip 27.44
2 x Brake pad wear indic 34.98

Rear
2 x Brake disk 127.40
Brake pad repair set 121.39
2 x Brake wear indice. 12.48
Total 754.79 front + 401.15 back = $1155.94 . Rest is labor and taxes.

 

Thompson ?

 

So I was at my dealer today and decided to chat with the Service Department manager and asked him what would usually be the mileage to get brakes and rotors replaced. Well, of course his response was "it depends". It depends how you drive, where you drive, etc... BUT based on his experience with the Q5 which the Macan S gets the calipers it is around 30,000 miles on average. Then he said something very interesting: "We don't really know on the Macan because the car is very new and since it's launch we did not have any break job done yet in our dealer on any Macans we sold." Thus, since the first Macans came out more than 1 year ago that is a good reference to get.

 

Anytime I have a car serviced by a car dealership, regardless of brand, I always anticipate they will recommend more work than I think is necessary. My favorite go-to response to the items I wish to decline is, "not at this time". This seems to effectively convey, 1) I've heard and acknowledge the recommendation, 2) I am open to acting upon it at some point in the future, and 3) I do not want to pursue it today.

If the dealership gave push-back.....say, insisting they needed to change rotors whenever changing pads......I would take my car to another shop for a second opinion. Fortunately, living in a huge metropolitan area, I have lots of options in this regard.....including many independent shops which are unlikely to push more work than is strictly required.

Of course, it helps that I have a lot of first-hand repair experience and knowledge to help guide me with these choices. Still, I find the process distasteful, though sometimes necessary.

 

Brakes Rotors replaced

I have about 5000K on my Macan. If the pads are replaced before they wear down too low the rotor still needs replacing too?

 

I have about 5000K on my Macan. If the pads are replaced before they wear down too low the rotor still needs replacing too?

Your car needs brake work already ? I would think you have at least another 20k miles before even thinking about brakes . Unless of course you brake a lot and I mean a lot. Yikes !


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So I just brought mine home from it's 10K service. Brakes in back were still 8mm in back and front 7mm. My driving style is fairly aggressive. I don't like down shifting to slow down because I would rather wear my break pads then the clutch on the PDK. So I'm thinking I'll be at least 20K before I replace them. So it seems we have a wide variety of pad wear down and servicing requirements, but the OP brake issue seems very odd and expensive IMO now I've completed my 10K service.

 

There is a problem or defect with the brakes somehow...

Interesting to read all this. My conclusion of a defect or problem is premature, but hear me out...

New Turbo. At 1,800 miles got some "dragging sound" at slow speed. Noticed because I had the window down. Was on a business trip. Ignored the problem. Assumed stone caught in there.

Couple days later, at about 2,200 miles, dragging noise was gone, but got a "ticking" sound--speed sensitive--that sounded like maybe a stone caught in a tire, clicking as it made contact with the pavement. Lasted a couple weeks.

By 3,000 miles, clear thumping from the front. Pulsing through the pedal. It was so bad with light application of the brakes at highway speed by 4,000 miles that the license plate of the car in front of me seemed to be vibrating up and down.

Finally got to dealer today. 5,000 miles on the car. They said the "rotors are gone" and will be replaced. Only explanation offered was, "Maybe something got caught in there."

Porsche has some 'splaining to do. This is clearly not "wear" and the idea that "something got caught in there" seem absurd.

I've owned a lot of P-cars and still have my third Cayenne in the driveway. Never had anything like this happen.

I will now ask to see the parts and for details.

 

Interesting to read all this. My conclusion of a defect or problem is premature, but hear me out...

New Turbo. At 1,800 miles got some "dragging sound" at slow speed. Noticed because I had the window down. Was on a business trip. Ignored the problem. Assumed stone caught in there.

Couple days later, at about 2,200 miles, dragging noise was gone, but got a "ticking" sound--speed sensitive--that sounded like maybe a stone caught in a tire, clicking as it made contact with the pavement. Lasted a couple weeks.

By 3,000 miles, clear thumping from the front. Pulsing through the pedal. It was so bad with light application of the brakes at highway speed by 4,000 miles that the license plate of the car in front of me seemed to be vibrating up and down.

Finally got to dealer today. 5,000 miles on the car. They said the "rotors are gone" and will be replaced. Only explanation offered was, "Maybe something got caught in there."

Porsche has some 'splaining to do. This is clearly not "wear" and the idea that "something got caught in there" seem absurd.

I've owned a lot of P-cars and still have my third Cayenne in the driveway. Never had anything like this happen.

I will now ask to see the parts and for details.

Do you have to pay for it because it's one of those "wear-n-tear" items? That's BS. I wouldn't necessarily go after your SA but they need to figure out the root cause before putting this on your tab.

 

Interested in hearing the outcome. But realize, and I'm no genius or mechanic, but sometimes when parts are manufactured they pass inspection when they shouldn't. So perhaps whoever made the rotors put out a bad set. I'm sure it happens.


As for something getting stuck, that's hogwash. A rock would be instantly pulverized from the heat and pressure, and it could only be a minuscule one anyway to fit between the pad and rotor.

 

Interested in hearing the outcome. But realize, and I'm no genius or mechanic, but sometimes when parts are manufactured they pass inspection when they shouldn't. So perhaps whoever made the rotors put out a bad set. I'm sure it happens.
.

You sayin they could've been made on a Monday or a Friday?:laugh:

 

I got a rock caught between the backing plate and rotor on a gravel road. Fortunately my wife was driving in the driveway and it made an extremely noticeable grinding noise, obviously having potential for damage. I had her move the car very slowly forward and back about 1/2 revolution til the rock (fortunately) fell out, before I had to start disassembling things. Apparently a tight tolerance in there. If the rock stayed in there it could well have carved up the rotor. I doubt P would consider this normal wear, any more than a nail in a tire would be considered to be normal wear & tear.

 

I think I read that one of the optional sophisticated systems, maybe ACC/PAS (which I haven't spec'd), anticipates a braking scenario and begins to apply the brakes in advance. Is it possible that such a system could malfunction and cause pre-mature brake wear?? Just a thought!!

:nerd:

 

I think I read that one of the optional sophisticated systems, maybe ACC/PAS (which I haven't spec'd), anticipates a braking scenario and begins to apply the brakes in advance. Is it possible that such a system could malfunction and cause pre-mature brake wear?? Just a thought!!

@Jerry - Why do all your thoughts seem to sound like conspiracy theories?

New Turbo. At 1,800 miles got some "dragging sound"...

Couple days later, at about 2,200 miles, dragging noise was gone, but got a "ticking" sound...

By 3,000 miles, clear thumping from the front....

Finally got to dealer today. 5,000 miles on the car. They said the "rotors are gone" and will be replaced....

Porsche has some 'splaining to do.

@Verdibaritone - Just a short piece of advice - you might not want to mention that you noticed this problem at 1800 miles - and then drove it for another 3200 before you decided to bring it in for a look!!??!?

 

Nope. Don't need to pay for it.
but, really didn't want to go through the hassle of dragging the car in for the services, and now a little concerned.

i suspect it was some kind of MFG issue, as others have suggested.

 

@Verdibaritone ... so which Verdi roles do you sing??

:laugh:

 

Parts of lots of roles. Didn't discover I could do it until age 45 tho...
My day job pays too well to pursue full time just now.

 

Don't mean to go OT or preach but I never understood using cruise control in city driving. My wife uses cruise control in almost every driving situation and it makes me nuts. Car speeds up on uphill sharp curves, just dangerous.

Cruise is just that, when you are cruising on a highway on a long trip. At least that's my two cents.

 

Useless aceleration vs brake pad wear.

I recall a few moons ago when I was in my early twenties with high HP cars and I racked up a series of speeding tickets and wound up going to court with an attorney to keep my driving license. The attorney convinced the judge that I would make full use of my cruise control to control my need for speed. I was able to keep my license and was given a probationary period. The cruise control discipline worked out well. This might serve as a suggestion for some and eliminate those rushes from stoplight to stoplight (and also save on brake wear).

 

Glad it worked out .


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My brake wear indicator light finally came on. I knew that I was on borrowed time at 41,XXX miles. Where I live we have a good selection of independent repair shops for Euro cars. A brake job (rotors/pads/sensors) for the front and rear at the dealership will be right at $1,950 before sales tax. I am going to shop around at a few of the indys for pricing. What have you folks paid for a brakes at the dealer or indy shop?

 

In all likelihood, the rotors are fine and do not need replacement this time around. Go with pads only, and sensors where needed. Way too many dealerships and shops up-sell on rotor replacements unnecessarily. Your new pads will bed themselves to your existing rotors very quickly.

 

I was wondering if pads only was an option. I will check into it.

 

You might want to take a look at some of the other threads here on the forum regarding recommended pads, and ask your installing garage to install those specific pads, or in many cases in they will be more than happy to install the pads and sensors that you supply. There are several well recommended non-OEM pads available. And you might find it interesting to compare the price you can buy the pads and sensors for online versus what the garage wants to charge you. Finally it would be difficult to justify charging you more than 1 hour per axle for labor just to replace pads. Despite what many dealers would like you to believe, there is nothing difficult or unusual regarding replacing brake pads on a Macan.

 

I had both the front and rear pads and rotors done at the dealer at 54k miles and cost was around $1600.

 

Approximately how much are the pads? And what thickness are they when new? How thin can it be before you must change them? And I’m guessing, with no basis, it’s no more difficult labor wise to effect the swap.

 

Swapping the pads on the PCCB's is the same as the standard brakes.....although more care needs to be taken not to accidentally nick or damage the rotors.

Suncoast lists PCCB pads for the Macan Turbo at $259 for the front set, and $295 for the rear set. For comparison, the standard brake pads are $275 front, and $185 for the rear....so not a huge difference.

Not sure what the pad thinkness is when new. Probably in the 10 - 12mm range. Replacement is recommended when the pads are down to 2 - 3mm....and sooner is better than later to protect the rotors from excessive heat.

I'm not worried about the rotors long term. They'll probably last 200k miles, and there are aftermarket companies like GiroDisc that make identically sized steel rotor replacements for the carbon ceramics. Brembo also offers steel rotor replacements for a few ceramic applications. It's also possible the OEM Turbo PP 390x38 steel rotors will work up front if the pad sweep area is the same (not quite enough information on that yet). And if we're lucky, in another 10 years, maybe the PCCB rotor manufacturing costs will have come down to something less stratospheric.

 

Unless you track, this is a good time to switch to a lower dusting and less costly aftermarket pad if you care about that sort of thing.

 

Are there any threads discussing aftermarket pad choices?

 

I'm in the same boat but at 35k miles. The dealer here in Canada quoted $2200+tax ($1700US) which appears to be a deal compared to your quote! But, not satisfied, I found an indie shop who would do it with Original (not OE) parts for $2000 ($1550US). And another couple hundred less for OE though they warn there could be squealing.

I considered a couple options to reduce cost:
- bringing my own original parts (~$800US) but two indie shops here really didn't want to do that.
- pads only but the shop had a good sales pitch: if the rotors get too thin on the second set of pads you get fading, and no warning of cracking. And they are usually close to being thin enough to need replacement anyways.

So they've sold me on the rotors too. What are your options, OP?

 

....I considered a couple options to reduce cost....
- pads only but the shop had a good sales pitch: if the rotors get too thin on the second set of pads you get fading, and no warning of cracking....

That does sound like a good sales pitch, and a nice up-sell story. Perhaps directionally true in theory; but in practice, you simply won't notice any fade difference after putting another 35k miles on your existing rotors (for a total of 70k miles).....even if you do happen to go beyond the minimum thickness spec before the next pad change. There's still a whole lot of rotor beef remaining at the minimum thickness spec.

As for cracking, I've only seen that on drilled rotors, which the Macan doesn't have. Even then, a drilled rotor with stress cracks is typically not in danger of falling apart anytime soon.
So, pads only this time around is perfectly fine for a car needing its first brake pad change at 35k miles. Do consider that option.

 

Has the OP enquied as to the cost of machining his rotors and giving his perfectly flat new pads a perfectly flat rotor surface. Why would you want to do half a job on your brakes? A bit like changing half your oil.

 

I've priced out pads/rotors/sensors at two indy shops. There is about a $140 difference between the two indy shops. I am going with the higher of the two options and the total cost before tax will be $1400, which is $550 less than the dealership. Both shops will inspect the rotors and reuse them if they are within specs and the gap is minimal. If they can reuse just 2 or all of the rotors, the cost will be significantly less of course. The shop that I am using is a performance-oriented shop that specializes in the German brands. They installed the coil over set up on my Macan and provide professional service.

I guess if driving another Macan loaner nine miles to my parking garage to sit all day was important to me, the $550 dealership premium would be worth it. That $550 savings will be split between a short Uber ride from the shop to the office and back and nearly fund a full tank of fuel for the boat.

 

Both shops will inspect the rotors and reuse them if they are within specs and the gap is minimal. If they can reuse just 2 or all of the rotors, the cost will be significantly less of course.

Thanks for this tip, I should ask my shop if they will do the same. Did you go with Original Parts?

 

I took the car to the indy shop for the brake job today. They replaced the rear pads, rotors and sensors and the front pads and sensors. Total cost was $1,035 before sales tax. All good it seems. I like the shop a lot. Very professional atmosphere, convenient to my office and there is always some cool cars to check out, primarily P cars. Quite a few cars with major track modifications. The downside is no loaner, but its a $9 uber trip to the office.

 

What was the breakdown of parts versus labor?

 

So only 50 percent less than the stealer.

 

On an apples to apples comparison there was a $550 difference between indy and dealer. The shop that did the job reused the front rotors and I did not price out reusing the rotors with the dealer. In my situation, there was approx a $1000 difference between what I had done vs what the dealer quoted me.