What are people paying for brakes and at what mileage are they being replaced? I had a warning light come on after only 12K miles. Didn't think it was a real alert, but apparently it was! I don't the ride brakes or track my Macan, so didn't understand how it was even possible to wear them down so fast. I had to replace all brakes and rotors at a cost of $2000 at dealer.
Phillymacan
Wow, did they say why they wore down so quickly? I have a ton of brake dust so that worries me.
Pads AND rotors at 12k miles? That seems totally absurd. These are not exotic pads or rotors. I do that many miles a year, at least - am I up for 2k a year in brake maintenance?! At that price it would be more economical to just get the PCCB! @Phillymacan is yours an S or Turbo?
I have 11,000 miles now and my mechanic checked my front brakes wear just last week and he said they are at 50% now and rears are about the same.
90% local roads and 75% conservative driving style
$2000 for all 4 brakes done is kind of expected but the wear seemed excessive
90% local roads and 75% conservative driving style
$2000 for all 4 brakes done is kind of expected but the wear seemed excessive
Just for reference, the parts from SunCoast:
Front pad set: $190
Rear pad set: $88
Front rotor set: $245
Rear rotor set: $165
Labor (1 hour - generous) $200 typical dealership rate
Total $888 plus tax
At $2000, I'd be asking serious questions of whoever did the work. Something is not right. Either way next time your best bet is to order the parts yourself and have it fitted by a reputable mechanic.
Front pad set: $190
Rear pad set: $88
Front rotor set: $245
Rear rotor set: $165
Labor (1 hour - generous) $200 typical dealership rate
Total $888 plus tax
At $2000, I'd be asking serious questions of whoever did the work. Something is not right. Either way next time your best bet is to order the parts yourself and have it fitted by a reputable mechanic.
Looking at Jim Ellis Use also: mounting parts comprising: brake pad repair set brake pad. SET for 2015 Porsche Macan. #95B698151H these look like the PCCB pads at$ 256, list $323. Add the rotors and you paid the normal price dealers probably charge, not the discounted price like Suncoast. Price sounds right.
The wear does not sound right. Rotors should go through two sets of pads for one rotor set. Did they actually measure the rotors and tell you they were below minimum distance? Something is weird here. 12K miles is too soon for rotors to be replaced? No?
The wear does not sound right. Rotors should go through two sets of pads for one rotor set. Did they actually measure the rotors and tell you they were below minimum distance? Something is weird here. 12K miles is too soon for rotors to be replaced? No?
Also, usually two sets of fronts for every one set of rear. Wow, two grand. No wonder they are called stealers instead of dealers. I will definitely buy the parts from suncoast and have work done at indie shop.
My wife just replaced the pads and rotors on her Q5. C$ 880 with new fluid. This at 68,000 km !!!
We tow a horse trailer with it and she has done a few Audi DE events with it in the summer and winter.
If a Q5 can do that with more or less the same brake system, I'd have expected a Macan to not be too different in longevity. Apparently I'm wrong.
We tow a horse trailer with it and she has done a few Audi DE events with it in the summer and winter.
If a Q5 can do that with more or less the same brake system, I'd have expected a Macan to not be too different in longevity. Apparently I'm wrong.
Wow! Fast wear on the brakess. On my Turbo that I gave back to PCNA, there was 80% left at 6000+ miles. As stated by others, the price to replace also seems too high.
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12k miles = 19,312km
I have 32,000km with 10+ Autocross events , 3+ track days and my brakes are still fine..
Something wrong with yours.. Thats nor normal.
I have 32,000km with 10+ Autocross events , 3+ track days and my brakes are still fine..
Something wrong with yours.. Thats nor normal.
New brakes at 12k miles does seem early. And given that the front brakes generally do 70% of the work, I seriously question whether the rear brakes actually needed work.
Unfortunately, many dealerships in the industry will charge much more for parts than if you procure the parts yourself. The Lexus dealership I was acquainted with typically charged double the over-the-counter parts price. Dealerships also tend to push fluid flushes & changes, which are a high margin item for them. I was once told by an insider, that because the Manufacturer required the dealership to build expensive showrooms and state-of-the-art service bays, that the dealership employees were pressed hard to find ways to increase revenue to pay for it all.
For brakes specifically, most dealerships will tell you that you need to install new rotors every time you replace the pads. In my opinion, this is total nonsense.
Yes....historical best practice has been to re-surface a car's rotors every time the pads were changed. But that was back when the original rotors could be removed, machined flat & smooth, and re-installed at a minimal cost. With today's floating rotors that are difficult to machine, rotor replacement is sometimes the only way to restore the rotor surface to new condition.
But in practice, there is little to be gained by having a fresh rotor surface when changing pads. The new pads will quickly bed themselves and adjust to any minor imperfections on the old rotors.
As long as the existing rotors have not become excessively irregular, or too thin, they should be fine for 50 - 90k miles.
Because of all this, many folks will stick with the dealership until the warranty period expires, and then switch to a good independent mechanic who has lower shop overhead.....or trade-in the car before the larger routine maintenance starts to kick-in.
Unfortunately, many dealerships in the industry will charge much more for parts than if you procure the parts yourself. The Lexus dealership I was acquainted with typically charged double the over-the-counter parts price. Dealerships also tend to push fluid flushes & changes, which are a high margin item for them. I was once told by an insider, that because the Manufacturer required the dealership to build expensive showrooms and state-of-the-art service bays, that the dealership employees were pressed hard to find ways to increase revenue to pay for it all.
For brakes specifically, most dealerships will tell you that you need to install new rotors every time you replace the pads. In my opinion, this is total nonsense.
Yes....historical best practice has been to re-surface a car's rotors every time the pads were changed. But that was back when the original rotors could be removed, machined flat & smooth, and re-installed at a minimal cost. With today's floating rotors that are difficult to machine, rotor replacement is sometimes the only way to restore the rotor surface to new condition.
But in practice, there is little to be gained by having a fresh rotor surface when changing pads. The new pads will quickly bed themselves and adjust to any minor imperfections on the old rotors.
As long as the existing rotors have not become excessively irregular, or too thin, they should be fine for 50 - 90k miles.
Because of all this, many folks will stick with the dealership until the warranty period expires, and then switch to a good independent mechanic who has lower shop overhead.....or trade-in the car before the larger routine maintenance starts to kick-in.
Not quite sure why the rotors need changed other than for dollars to the dealer. Is this coming from Porsche?
And unnecessary and more intrusive maintenance is not without risks. There is significantly more disassembly to remove and replace disks and it gives a chance to get dirt and rust between the critical mating surfaces or disturb balance and runout.
Properly broken in rotors that have not been abused are probably BETTER than new rotors.
Perhaps it is for "nanny" reasons as the dealer doesn't want to take any responsibility for anything but new pads on new disks and who cares about the customer's cost or the environment?
And unnecessary and more intrusive maintenance is not without risks. There is significantly more disassembly to remove and replace disks and it gives a chance to get dirt and rust between the critical mating surfaces or disturb balance and runout.
Properly broken in rotors that have not been abused are probably BETTER than new rotors.
Perhaps it is for "nanny" reasons as the dealer doesn't want to take any responsibility for anything but new pads on new disks and who cares about the customer's cost or the environment?
One of my colleagues said they owned an previous generation of Cayenne and said he got rid of it because brake changes were too frequent and really expensive. I wasn't sure if this was common. This seems to echo the same vein. Other Porsche owners, have you had any of this and can chime in, good or bad on frequent changes in brake pads and rotors?
An issue with brake service is that dealers have liability and financial incentives that are not necessarily aligned with the owners interests.
Upselling unneeded disk replacement is one, as is resurfacing. Brake fluid change is another. Here in California I have tested fluid a few times with not even a detectable trace of copper / moisture and the test system uses a logarithmic scale so it’s telling me I have a lot less than a fraction of 1% of the contamination level for a change. I guess it’s in the warranty book so I'll need to waste good fluid and risk a less than factory job sooner than I'd like.
The other factor is many dealers assume that they have to protect you from yourself and from driving aggressively for 1.5 times the next service interval so will change pads way too soon. That's why some change at 5mm or more. Of course they only do that for you and not their bottom line.
If you can be more responsible for your own maintenance and even slightly mechanically inclined you can take control of some this or just agree to the potential waste.
Upselling unneeded disk replacement is one, as is resurfacing. Brake fluid change is another. Here in California I have tested fluid a few times with not even a detectable trace of copper / moisture and the test system uses a logarithmic scale so it’s telling me I have a lot less than a fraction of 1% of the contamination level for a change. I guess it’s in the warranty book so I'll need to waste good fluid and risk a less than factory job sooner than I'd like.
The other factor is many dealers assume that they have to protect you from yourself and from driving aggressively for 1.5 times the next service interval so will change pads way too soon. That's why some change at 5mm or more. Of course they only do that for you and not their bottom line.
If you can be more responsible for your own maintenance and even slightly mechanically inclined you can take control of some this or just agree to the potential waste.
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@Phillymacan I'm guessing you didn't intend to just quote @SoCalS5 and not write anything additional?
@Phillymacan I'm guessing you didn't intend to just quote @SoCalS5 and not write anything additional?
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