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Discussion starter · #303 ·
We'll see how good my soldering skills are :D
It is possible that you can connect the ANT lead to the unit’s power supply…. Rather than fuse box. I’m going to test that and let you know. This will be useful as it will be contained within the quad harness.
 
Discussion starter · #304 · (Edited)
So, for this AM/FM fix, you can tap into one of the quad harness adapter wires, instead of routing a wire from fuse box.

AcarDash provided us the following photo where they recommend that the blue amplifier lead from their crappy inline amplifier is connected to a red wire that goes into the MOST converter.

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Instead of tapping into the red wire to connect that blue wire going to the inline amplifier, go ahead and tap a new wire to that red wire going to MOST converter and connect the new wire into the ANT lead in the quad connector. The blue wire coming from the inline box amplifier is NOT USED.

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It will look something like this….
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So, this makes installation cleaner because is all contained in the Quad adapter provided by AcarDash. Hence, no need to route any wire into the fuse box.

And IT WORKS!
 
Hey guys!
It’s nice that I discovered this thread, just installed the unit, applied tsclock too, however, I quite constantly now get a black screen on the driver side screen on boot, sometimes it works fine, but most of the time it is just black, backlight work though, the phone connects to carplay too, which means the system is working but something is off with the lcd.
Did anyone experience anything like that?
will try to remove tsclock(don’t think its causing it) and check all the wires🤔
Image
 
Hey guys!
It’s nice that I discovered this thread, just installed the unit, applied tsclock too, however, I quite constantly now get a black screen on the driver side screen on boot, sometimes it works fine, but most of the time it is just black, backlight work though, the phone connects to carplay too, which means the system is working but something is off with the lcd.
Did anyone experience anything like that?
will try to remove tsclock(don’t think its causing it) and check all the wires🤔 View attachment 298116
Sounds like a hardware issue. None of us have experienced that.
 
Hi Orre, I’m interested how you gonna make the roll back and how you backed up the original tsclock file. Thank you in advance.
Currently I can't do anything, I checked all the wires, everything is fine. Yesterday the screen did turn on couple of times at least, but today, its completely dead. From the passenger side I can't do anything as its blocked from accessing settings or anything else, so waiting for a response from seller
 
Currently I can't do anything, I checked all the wires, everything is fine. Yesterday the screen did turn on couple of times at least, but today, its completely dead. From the passenger side I can't do anything as its blocked from accessing settings or anything else, so waiting for a response from seller
Definitely sounds like a hardware problem...seems like some wiring to the display is defective. Do you even see the boot screen consistently on the left screen? If it's black even during some boots then definitely hardware issue.
 
Definitely sounds like a hardware problem...seems like some wiring to the display is defective. Do you even see the boot screen consistently on the left screen? If it's black even during some boots then definitely hardware issue.
Yeah its black even during the boot, however, the system does boot up as the phone connects to carplay even if you can't see it.
The backlight of the lcd is on as well, I took the unit out and had a look at the flex cables to the screen, and connections were perfect and intact.
During one of the drives today it randomly turned on on car start and stayed on for the whole day, weirdly though, I can hear as if a coil is whinning from the 1st screen.
I have the upgraded unit with the fan.
The seller recommended to take off the power wire for 5 seconds and put it back in :D
Anyway, dunno what to do with this unit, reset to factory won't fix this I guess
 
Update on this:
Got the full firmware from seller, flashed it in, and issue remained the same. So its def a hardware issue, as well I get a similar sound to as if a coil is whinning from behind that dead screen.
Anyway, guess will have to return it
 
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