[IBEME]

I have a 2017 S that I purchased used CPO roughly 4 yrs ago. Original battery is 8.5 yrs old. The MFD went from 14.7-14.8 now a constant 15. Collision warning acting funny sometimes. Figure it's time to replace as best my CTEK can charge it to is 79% SOH and 676CCA. Replaced with Interstate H8(49) for $179.99 from Costco. Before charging 12.48V and 919 CCA. After charging for 7 hrs. 13.04V
and 962CCA. Rated at 1000CA and 95Ah. Went with this as averages $60/yr for the 3 yr. warranty. Local dealer wanted $537.06 for just the battery.
My question is, isn't it more important what the alternator can put out rather than 92,95 or 105 Ah battery? The battery eventually will only be charged what the system can put out.

The plug instructions and picture of where the vents are (one each side) are attached. I hope to install this weekend with my Autel 808 Pro. Will update on how the registering goes. If successful, if anyone is in the Raleigh NC area and wants to do this themselves, I'll help.

 

[mataa]

I have a 2017 S that I purchased used CPO roughly 4 yrs ago. Original battery is 8.5 yrs old. The MFD went from 14.7-14.8 now a constant 15. Collision warning acting funny sometimes. Figure it's time to replace as best my CTEK can charge it to is 79% SOH and 676CCA. Replaced with Interstate H8(49) for $179.99 from Costco. Before charging 12.48V and 919 CCA. After charging for 7 hrs. 13.04V
and 962CCA. Rated at 1000CA and 95Ah. Went with this as averages $60/yr for the 3 yr. warranty. Local dealer wanted $537.06 for just the battery.
My question is, isn't it more important what the alternator can put out rather than 92,95 or 105 Ah battery? The battery eventually will only be charged what the system can put out.

The plug instructions and picture of where the vents are (one each side) are attached. I hope to install this weekend with my Autel 808 Pro. Will update on how the registering goes. If successful, if anyone is in the Raleigh NC area and wants to do this themselves, I'll help.

Good job on sourcing an identical battery to the Porsche marked up one, for much less !

The battery and the alternator perform overlapping but also different functions.
Batteries are needed in the system for when the engine is not running or for when the power draw exceeds what the alternator can generate.
The alternator produces power when the engine is running at a voltage determined by the BMS in order to power connected devices and also to (re)charge the battery.
You need both and both are important in their own way.

The battery's Amp-hour (Ah) rating defines how long a battery can supply its voltage at a particular amperage (flow rate) when not being charged by a power source like an alternator. Higher Ah ratings mean the battery can provide its power longer. Higher Ah batteries also provide a higher level of instantaneous short duration current flow, needed for engine starting and particularly for starting in cold weather when batteries are less efficient at delivering power and engines are harder to turn over.

A given alternator can charge any battery of the correct voltage as long as it is connected long enough to fully charge that battery. Bigger batteries simply take longer to charge. So, it is not a matter of what the alternator is "putting out" , as much as for how long it is charging the battery. This logic holds within certain limits. The alternator must also be able to provide enough current flow at its voltage to make charging possible in a reasonable period of time. An under powered alternator (current) will take forever to charge a large battery, but when forever comes, the battery will be charged.

 

[Teddis]

Be wary of all the 4.3V chargers. The optional Macan battery is 105AH, vice the standard 92AH battery, The original Porsche Charge O Mat, CTEK 3300 (3.3V) will not charge these batteries. The newer 4.3V will, barely, limited to 110 AH. They will but could take up to 28 hours.

Thanks for this @grim , I am also on a 105AH battery, and my CTEK 4.3 was struggling.

I just switched to the CTEK multi, 7.0A.
It gets the battery way faster to charge , and I also notice higher , like 12.8VDC, when unplugged and before start. It needed this.

 

[IBEME]

Just got done replacing and registering the battery. 1hr job but that included updating the 808Pro. All systems work but MFD still showing 14.9 on my test run but 12.7 with the car off which is better than before as it was 12.2 and dying. Interstate battery looks identical and was made in Germany. Hardest thing was putting the bolt back in the hold down bracket.

 

[mataa]

Just got done replacing and registering the battery. 1hr job but that included updating the 808Pro. All systems work but MFD still showing 14.9 on my test run but 12.7 with the car off which is better than before as it was 12.2 and dying. Interstate battery looks identical and was made in Germany. Hardest thing was putting the bolt back in the hold down bracket.

After starting the car, did the MFD give you a message asking you to drive the car ?

My working theory is that it will do this because registering the battery wipes away the old battery's history and the BMS now needs some information to decide whether to turn disabled systems back on. Driving the car let's it measure the new battery's behavior. In my case, a 5 or 6 mile drive was enough to accomplish this after which Auto Stop/Start began to work again.

Remember that the 14.9v you see is the total system voltage, not the battery's voltage. With this range of voltage the BMS thinks your battery needs some charging. It may be correct - that your new battery is a little low, or that it simply does not have enough information to allow it to drop lower.

 

[IBEME]

No message to drive the car as I had my CTEK 7002 supply power during the swap.

 

[mataa]

No message to drive the car as I had my CTEK 7002 supply power during the swap.

Interesting. It does not have anything to do with keeping the car on the CTEK (hope you used Supply mode) while performing the swap. That just ensures that car programming remains intact. Did your Autel confirm proper registration ?

 

[IBEME]

Interesting. It does not have anything to do with keeping the car on the CTEK (hope you used Supply mode) while performing the swap. That just ensures that car programming remains intact. Did your Autel confirm proper registration ?

Yes

 

[mataa]

Yes

Do you park your Macan outdoors overnight ? That could cause the higher MFD system voltage. And even if it warms up, the battery is probably slow to warm up because it has a lot of thermal mass and is low and not exposed to outdoor air.

 

[IBEME]

No. It is garaged. It is my DD but I work mainly from home and barely do 6k per year. I used the CTEK about once a month which I think is why the original lasted 8.5 years

 

[mataa]

No. It is garaged. It is my DD but I work mainly from home and barely do 6k per year. I used the CTEK about once a month which I think is why the original lasted 8.5 years

You wrote about charging to 79% SOH. Charging will not materially change the SOH because internal corrosion and mineral deposits are largely to blame for a reduction in battery health. Charging can not reverse all of this. It obviously affects SOC which can be 100% even with a battery in poor health. But that charge will not last long in use.

Porsche consider 75% SOH to be the minimum. In southern climates I suspect that you can go a lot lower and still have a workable battery, but the BMS will definitely start disabling systems. You likely experienced that when you wrote about the "collision warning acting funny". That and Auto Stop/Start being disabled are definite signs of a low battery SOH. I went 7 years with very low mileage and long periods of non-use while never charging my battery and was at 75% SOH when I removed it. I never had the first hint of a starting problem. You did a little better and went a little longer with your periodic charges. I'm keeping my battery on the CTEK most of the time now because it is really easy for me to do with my setup. It will be interesting to see how long my battery lasts with this regime.

Try charging your battery and then starting the car to see how quickly the MFD displaye voltage stabilizes around 13+ volts. If it does not do this within 5 minutes for a new fully charged battery, check clamps for tightness and, if you did not already, remove them and brush the posts and clamp interiors lightly to remove surface corrosion.

 

[IBEME]

Driving the car to work today and I guess the car adjusted to the new battery. 13.1 to 13.5 and going up to 14+ when braking. Also downshifts 2 gears when put into sport mode. Did not notice that before.

 

[Hawaiikev2004]

Okay I saw everywhere saying it would okay to use aftermarket battery if I just register it. My scan tool is capable but it is asking for part numbers and other stuff that is on a OEM but not on aftermarket. I tried to trick it by putting the information from the original battery but now have more lights on my dash than most people have on their tree at Christmas.

 

[notmac1]

Use same part number just change the last digits from the serial number.

 

[AndrewsMacan]

Can someone on this post answer the original question?? When you change the battery, do you need to have it registered? I’m thinking about changing my battery myself, but I’m worried that it needs to be registered to the car??

 

[SouthJerseyRider]

Can someone on this post answer the original question?? When you change the battery, do you need to have it registered? I’m thinking about changing my battery myself, but I’m worried that it needs to be registered to the car??

yes, you need to register the battery and certain numbers from the battery label to do it correctly. I used an Autel MD808 Pro scanner to accomplish it. Also, you need to use an OEM battery or the car/scanner won't complete the battery registration. If you do the work yourself, any local import mechanic (or the dealer) can do the registration for you for a small fee.

 

[AndrewsMacan]

yes, you need to register the battery and certain numbers from the battery label to do it correctly. I used an Autel MD808 Pro scanner to accomplish it. Also, you need to use an OEM battery or the car/scanner won't complete the battery registration. If you do the work yourself, any local import mechanic (or the dealer) can do the registration for you for a small fee.

I thought so!! I have a launch 431X Pro so I think I can do that… any one know the steps on a Launch 431 Pro???

 

[mataa]

yes, you need to register the battery and certain numbers from the battery label to do it correctly. I used an Autel MD808 Pro scanner to accomplish it. Also, you need to use an OEM battery or the car/scanner won't complete the battery registration. If you do the work yourself, any local import mechanic (or the dealer) can do the registration for you for a small fee.

You are mistaken. At least mostly mistaken.

Do you need to register the battery ? Registering it wipes the BMS history so a new battery will be recognized as new and any systems that have been disabled will be restored quickly. Not registering it causes new battery performance history to be blended with the old and system restoration takes longer. That's it. Not exactly a compelling reason to do it, but nice to do if you own a tool to do it.

Do you need to use an OEM battery ? Absolutely NOT. Porsche dramatically overcharge for what you can purchase in the market - identical products made under a myriad of brand names. My choice is the Walmart Everstart Platinum AGM H8 ($179.84) - a product that would not be discernible from a Porsche branded battery if the labels were removed. Mine was made in Germany by the same company that makes the Varta branded Porsche part.

The numbers that are used to input for registration purposes must recognize the correct Ah rating and battery type (AGM) but the part number and serial number need only have the correct number of characters. If you were using the overpriced product and wanted warranty coverage, having the correct data input allows a Porsche tech to see the info with out looking at the battery itself. However, the warranty coverage is pretty useless when you can buy identical batteries for a fraction of the price and get a 4 year free replacement battery warranty in the case of Walmart's Everstart Platinum.

 

[mataa]

I thought so!! I have a launch 431X Pro so I think I can do that… any one know the steps on a Launch 431 Pro???

See my post above.

 

[AndrewsMacan]

You are mistaken. At least mostly mistaken.

Do you need to register the battery ? Registering it wipes the BMS history so a new battery will be recognized as new and any systems that have been disabled will be restored quickly. Not registering it causes new battery performance history to be blended with the old and system restoration takes longer. That's it. Not exactly a compelling reason to do it, but nice to do if you own a tool to do it.

Do you need to use an OEM battery ? Absolutely NOT. Porsche dramatically overcharge for what you can purchase in the market - identical products made under a myriad of brand names. My choice is the Walmart Everstart Platinum AGM H8 ($179.84) - a product that would not be discernible from a Porsche branded battery if the labels were removed. Mine was made in Germany by the same company that makes the Varta branded Porsche part.

The numbers that are used to input for registration purposes must recognize the correct Ah rating and battery type (AGM) but the part number and serial number need only have the correct number of characters. If you were using the overpriced product and wanted warranty coverage, having the correct data input allows a Porsche tech to see the info with out looking at the battery itself. However, the warranty coverage is pretty useless when you can buy identical batteries for a fraction of the price and get a 4 year free replacement battery warranty in the case of Walmart's Everstart Platinum.

Thanks for all the info but kind of still very confusing not gonna lie so you’re saying you don’t have to register it but it’s probably a good idea to do so???
So I purchased a Varta OEM battery that has 90% life from a guy on OfferUp!! he said the battery had been only used for six months!! I just wanna make sure that I keep all the original settings and do the right thing that’s required…. Not sure if this battery is registered to another vehicle. Do we know if that’s gonna pose a problem??? it was only 80 bucks so I was pretty stoked about it.
I guess I can just install the new battery and on my launch 431X pro enter the serial numbers and hope for the best!