[grim]

Be wary of all the 4.3V chargers. The optional Macan battery is 105AH, vice the standard 92AH battery, The original Porsche Charge O Mat, CTEK 3300 (3.3V) will not charge these batteries. The newer 4.3V will, barely, limited to 110 AH. They will but could take up to 28 hours.

 

[mataa]

Be wary of all the 4.3V chargers. The optional Macan battery is 105AH, vice the standard 92AH battery, The original Porsche Charge O Mat, CTEK 3300 (3.3V) will not charge these batteries. The newer 4.3V will, barely, limited to 110 AH. They will but could take up to 28 hours.

It's true that these smaller units are not ideal for recharging a very discharged battery, but if you are having to do that, you may need a new battery or to have the charging system serviced, and not necessarily a different charger. CTEKs are programmed to throw an error if they do not achieve a certain charge level in a certain period of time. Unplugging and re-plugging the unit will often see it complete the charge cycle successfully on a bigger battery if this happens and the battery is a fundamentally healthy one.

CTEK claim the MXS 5.0... "Charges batteries up to 110AH. Maintains larger batteries up to 160AH." CTEK MXS 5.0 While a completely flat battery might take 28 hours, a completely flat battery is not likely to be a common use case for most drivers as their cars would have stopped functioning long earlier.

I have not seen a Macan owner need a 105 Ah battery nor have I read of one here, though I do not claim that that is 100% the case. Mine is fairly contented and has never struggled with the 92/95 Ah models.

p.s. I think you mean 3.3 Amp for the CTEK 3300 and 4.3 Amp for the MXS 5.0 ( a little "creative" rounding + marketing on their part).

 

[grim]

I have not seen a Macan owner need a 105 Ah battery nor have I read of one here, though I do not claim that that is 100% the case. Mine is fairly contented and has never struggled with the 92/95 Ah models.

p.s. I think you mean 3.3 Amp for the CTEK 3300 and 4.3 Amp for the MXS 5.0 ( a little "creative" rounding + marketing on their part).

Yes, A, not V

My original battery was replaced free under warranty and the dealer threw on a 105AH without asking. They knew very well the batteries die easily. When its 0F, night after night, you can use all the CCA you can. Its 580 DIN 950EN. The dealers tests in DIN, not CCA or EN. There is no CCA marking. The larger capacity helps on the cold winter mornings.

CCA provides an essential measure of a battery’s ability to start an engine reliably in cold climates, making it a crucial consideration when selecting a battery for vehicles operating in such conditions.

ctek conversion chart

https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles/PDFs/product%20information/CTEK%20products/CTEK%20Conversion%20Table%20from%20DIN%20to%20CCA.pdf

roughly 1020 CCA. Its about the cold, not about capacity. Its always smart to get the greater CCA the alternator can handle if in the snow belt in any car.

 

[saxforte]

Yes, A, not V

My original battery was replaced free under warranty and the dealer threw on a 105AH without asking. They knew very well the batteries die easily. When its 0F, night after night, you can use all the CCA you can. Its 580 DIN 950EN. The dealers tests in DIN, not CCA or EN. There is no CCA marking. The larger capacity helps on the cold winter mornings.

CCA provides an essential measure of a battery’s ability to start an engine reliably in cold climates, making it a crucial consideration when selecting a battery for vehicles operating in such conditions.

ctek conversion chart

https://www.roadpro.co.uk/userfiles/PDFs/product%20information/CTEK%20products/CTEK%20Conversion%20Table%20from%20DIN%20to%20CCA.pdf

roughly 1020 CCA. Its about the cold, not about capacity. Its always smart to get the greater CCA the alternator can handle if in the snow belt in any car.

Having grown up in a climate where the back of my clutch pedal once caused the Rubbermaid winter floor mat to shatter into smithereens one very cold morning, I wholeheartedly agree with you.

 

[911Fiddler]

Well I did this.
-Physically installed ✅
-Registered the change with PIWIS 3 ✅
-PIWIS 3 confirmed all ok ✅
All is good, it seems, but how do I verify fully that the car now knows it has a new battery?
Where, if at all, is the evidence? In P3 that is. Anyone know which screen view to look at?

 

[Robert M]

You just need to trust that it worked.

 

[Longo2016MacanS]

How much did that battery cost and where did you buy it?

 

[mataa]

Well I did this.
-Physically installed ✅
-Registered the change with PIWIS 3 ✅
-PIWIS 3 confirmed all ok ✅
All is good, it seems, but how do I verify fully that the car now knows it has a new battery?
Where, if at all, is the evidence? In P3 that is. Anyone know which screen view to look at?

View attachment 290413

I tried, like you, to confirm the installation I did with an iCarsoft POR V3 and it can not be done directly. iCarsoft tech support, if you want to call it that, could not provide any help with this. That said, when you look at the internal resistance the BMS reports you will see a much lower value with a new battery, clearly proving that the BMS is at the very least "appreciating" the new battery. I'd have to pull values from my old and new (2nd one i use rarely for a different purpose)) battery, both of which I still have out of the car, to be able to report what to expect.

 

[Teddis]

It is listed in the VAL. As well as a million other parameters on the BMS.

 

[tlp]

Current Data Points:

2016 Macan Turbo 29k miles.

Had a couple of sluggish slow cranking starts on the car so I figured it was time. Had a good run with OEM battery [Varta 7P0 915 105 C - 92Hh] all things considered.

Purchased a Interstate Battery from Costco $179 item # 1624801. H8 (49) 95Ah 900CCA 36mo Warranty.

Will register the battery via iCarsoft this weekend.

Noticed immediately that the Auto S/S was working again after being dormant for years.

 

[911Fiddler]

It is listed in the VAL. As well as a million other parameters on the BMS.

yes, I see under PIWIS, V mode, Gateway, Actual Values, there's some battery parameters, so I'll try validate my later.

 

[bcgreen]

Are you still not seeing any issues since installing the new battery without doing the registration?

 

[Mechanic]

My battery seems to be working fine since I installed it end of Nov and didn't have a scan tool. Was planning to replace the vehicle with a newer GTS that the dealer said was coming in but missed out so just picked up a POR V2 from Icarsoft as I have an oil changed due soon. I think I will go in and update the battery specs for the replacement. I didn't see a part # on the battery I picked up from Costco H8-AGM Energizer, 900CCA, Itm# 2387650, 160 Reserve and 95 Ah. The original battery was a Varta 92AH and had the part # on the back so do I just use the part# from the old one ?

 

[911Fiddler]

Update.
Following my new battery and registration via PIWIS 3, as above, I’ve noticed the car seems to run often at elevated voltages, c14.5V and above, which is a bit of a surprise. I’d expected a fall maybe to 14 ish.
So, I decided to look in the Gateway module, see if I could prove that the registration worked. I can see an ageing parameter is at 100%, but, unfortunately, otherwise, it’s not clear that it knows that a new battery is present…
Does anyone out there understand more about this?

 

[SouthJerseyRider]

Update.
Following my new battery and registration via PIWIS 3, as above, I’ve noticed the car seems to run often at elevated voltages, c14.5V and above, which is a bit of a surprise. I’d expected a fall maybe to 14 ish.
So, I decided to look in the Gateway module, see if I could prove that the registration worked. I can see an ageing parameter is at 100%, but, unfortunately, otherwise, it’s not clear that it knows that a new battery is present…
Does anyone out there understand more about this?

View attachment 291049
View attachment 291050

FYI - I used an Autel MD808 Pro scanner to register new battery and it said "successful" but like you when I go back in to look at data, I cannot confirm nor find anywhere where it shows new battery was installed??

 

[mataa]

My battery seems to be working fine since I installed it end of Nov and didn't have a scan tool. Was planning to replace the vehicle with a newer GTS that the dealer said was coming in but missed out so just picked up a POR V2 from Icarsoft as I have an oil changed due soon. I think I will go in and update the battery specs for the replacement. I didn't see a part # on the battery I picked up from Costco H8-AGM Energizer, 900CCA, Itm# 2387650, 160 Reserve and 95 Ah. The original battery was a Varta 92AH and had the part # on the back so do I just use the part# from the old one ?

The part number is useless, practically speaking. Put anything you like there. As long as you respect the number of characters used the BMS will accept it. (11 characters with no spaces and all numbers). If you want your dealer to think you have a Porsche supplied battery if they ever look, use a Porsche part number for your battery (e.g. 95861109221 for the 92 AH version).

 

[mataa]

FYI - I used an Autel MD808 Pro scanner to register new battery and it said "successful" but like you when I go back in to look at data, I cannot confirm nor find anywhere where it shows new battery was installed??

There are 2 values that should tell you what you need to know... the internal resistance and the state of health.
Your resistance seems a little high at 3 MOhm for a brand new battery. If I were you, I'd make sure that the battery posts were lightly sanded / brushed and that the clamps are tightened (careful not to overtighten). This resistance could also be what is causing the BMS to charge at 14+volts. Normally only a slightly discharged battery or cold weather or high accessory usage would do this after the car has run for 10 or 15 minutes or more.
The battery ageing number look like a new battery. But the charge level and voltage are both quite low, so if these readings were taken when you would have expected the charge level to be better, then something is not quite right. Start with the battery posts and clamp tightness.

 

[grim]

Update.
Following my new battery and registration via PIWIS 3, as above, I’ve noticed the car seems to run often at elevated voltages, c14.5V and above, which is a bit of a surprise. I’d expected a fall maybe to 14 ish.
So, I decided to look in the Gateway module, see if I could prove that the registration worked. I can see an ageing parameter is at 100%, but, unfortunately, otherwise, it’s not clear that it knows that a new battery is present…
Does anyone out there understand more about this?

For the times I checked SOH, IR ranged from 2.44 to about 2.77 at 3.2 it was bad. It can fluctuate

Your SOC is way to low, below 12. full SOC is 12.8 for agm. You need to go drive for an hour or put it on a charger

 

[911Fiddler]

There are 2 values that should tell you what you need to know... the internal resistance and the state of health.
Your resistance seems a little high at 3 MOhm for a brand new battery. If I were you, I'd make sure that the battery posts were lightly sanded / brushed and that the clamps are tightened (careful not to overtighten). This resistance could also be what is causing the BMS to charge at 14+volts. Normally only a slightly discharged battery or cold weather or high accessory usage would do this after the car has run for 10 or 15 minutes or more.
The battery ageing number look like a new battery. But the charge level and voltage are both quite low, so if these readings were taken when you would have expected the charge level to be better, then something is not quite right. Start with the battery posts and clamp tightness.

Thanks for that.
We are at sub zero ambient here right now so maybe that accounts for the internal resistance matter. I'll try again when we return to a more balmy 10c.
I ran for an hour yesterday without 'Sport' switched on. Sure enough, as stated above, the car settled at c13.5V charging. I guess if one is racing, a shortage of electrical energy gets in the way!

 

[mataa]

Thanks for that.
We are at sub zero ambient here right now so maybe that accounts for the internal resistance matter. I'll try again when we return to a more balmy 10c.
I ran for an hour yesterday without 'Sport' switched on. Sure enough, as stated above, the car settled at c13.5V charging. I guess if one is racing, a shortage of electrical energy gets in the way!

Sub-zero Celsius I assume. Bear in mind that the BMS will likely use the battery temperature, not the ambient temperature for its purposes. I do not know at what temperature it decides to charge at higher voltage levels. If you park outdoors overnight, it's moot, but not if you park in a garage that is insulated and or heated. Battery temperature is yet another parameter that can be read by a scan tool.
And yes, internal resistance can vary somewhat with state of charge. Interesting too is that the BMS does not attempt to fully charge the battery while driving. It leaves a little charge headroom for the regenerative braking feature to work. This is an example of how the engineers decided for you, that the little bit of fuel economy from that feature was worth leaving the battery slightly undercharged. Great if you live in a warm climate. Less great if you live in a really cold climate and must park outdoors with an older battery.
This morning it was 36°F (2° C) outside and 40°F (4° C) in my garage and my fully charged battery (I keep it on a CTEK tender because it's easy for me to do) started the car and almost immediately leveled out at 13.3 V system voltage in Normal mode (not Sport etc).