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@Wolverine +1 on grim reply. I guess I should have put the model number but I use the Ctek unit as well No battery required to provide voltage.
 
I have an iCarsoft POR V2.0 that I have used for diagnostic purposes as well as performing service resets following oil changes. Although I'm not in a position to need a battery registration I explored the BMS section and find it looks like the battery registration is available for our Macans. I have a 2017 S and have attached a couple of screen shots to show what I have seen. (ensure you're at the latest software level)
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I can add that I updated the software on my iCarsoft POR II yesterday.

Remove micro SD, etc, PIA.....
On reboot, It does not have the Battery maintenance option on the screen.....at least while not connected to the Macan.....I would not expect any change though connected
, it seems it is a feature of the V2.O unit ONLY.


2016 Macan T
 
Will the Icarsoft also do Battery registration on BMW's? Besides the Macan I also have two BMW's that require battery registration when the batteries are being replaced. I'm thinking perhaps the Autel might be a better choice for me as it will do both brands?
 
Will the Icarsoft also do Battery registration on BMW's? Besides the Macan I also have two BMW's that require battery registration when the batteries are being replaced. I'm thinking perhaps the Autel might be a better choice for me as it will do both brands?
The iCarsoft POR V2.0 is for Porsche only. iCarsoft does sell devices for other brand of cars. Not sure if they have anything that works on Porsche and other brands. Best to check their web site to see what they offer.
 
The iCarsoft POR V2.0 is for Porsche only. iCarsoft does sell devices for other brand of cars. Not sure if they have anything that works on Porsche and other brands. Best to check their web site to see what they offer.
Thank you.
 
I have an iCarsoft POR V2.0 that I have used for diagnostic purposes as well as performing service resets following oil changes. Although I'm not in a position to need a battery registration I explored the BMS section and find it looks like the battery registration is available for our Macans. I have a 2017 S and have attached a couple of screen shots to show what I have seen. (ensure you're at the latest software level) View attachment 228384 View attachment 228385 View attachment 228386
Great pictures, thank you. An Interstate battery from Costco, size H8 for our cars IIRC, doesn't have a serial number, does it? If the software requires a serial number, what would you put in? This question has already been pondered, changing one digit off the original Varta battery number, but has someone successfully done it? Also does the software include an option for Interstate brand?
Does the Autel MD808 require the same information, brand, size, and serial number?
And my two cents regarding maintaining power to the car while changing the battery.... the service manager at my dealership recommended using jumper cables from another car to assure you have good voltage. He told me to stay away from using a battery charger.
 
@Chookie Cannot answer whether the MD808 accepts Interstate battery’s but according to the video it does require brand, serial number and part number. Still a lot of unknowns till someone gives it a try.

It was mentioned earlier that some battery chargers will not provide voltage without a battery. That may be the reason for your SA advising against. The Ctek offers supply voltage without a battery model Mult US 7002
 
Discussion starter · #330 ·
I wonder if something like this:
Would work to supply voltage to save all your computer settings while the battery is swapped?
 
Discussion starter · #331 ·
Some thoughts on the need to register the new battery with serial #, brand, Ah, CCA, etc.
Especially if the new battery brand is NOT listed amount the choices on your tool & if the new battery has no serial #.

The rationale for registering at all is that the Porsche computer must know the specs on the new battery in order to regulate the alternator charging voltage or it will be wrong & your new battery will have a short life.

Consider the following:
2 identical Macans. Same delivery day, same exact battery.

2 very different driving habits by the owners.

Car 1 a daily driver with ½ hr. commute, mostly freeway non rush hour travel.
Car 2 driven 1x/week, short distances stop & go. Never used a battery tender/charger.

It is probable that Car 2 will need a new battery years sooner vs. car #1. That battery was often undercharged, not good for long battery life.

Both cars had the same exact original battery registration with the same exact specs.

Wouldn't you think the computer instructs the alternator to charge the batteries differently, due to their different state of charge & other factors monitored by the computer?

Car 2 probably is usually @ 50% charge & car 1 probably @ 90-100% daily.

So I wonder if the computer really only needs to "know" the Ah & CCA of the replacement battery.

If you bought a brand that was NOT listed in the tool's choices but had 92Ah & 850 CCA & entered the Varta series # +1 & also the name Varta, wouldn't your charging system correctly charge it?

The tricky question is what if the new battery was a brand not listed & had slightly more Ah say 95 Ah & more CCA say, 900 (I think that Interstate had those specs)

Entering fake Varta inf. & serial number may still work very well.

I would feel better if the tool allowed you to enter, rather than select from preloaded choices, the important specs.
 
Some thoughts on the need to register the new battery with serial #, brand, Ah, CCA, etc.
Especially if the new battery brand is NOT listed amount the choices on your tool & if the new battery has no serial #.

The rationale for registering at all is that the Porsche computer must know the specs on the new battery in order to regulate the alternator charging voltage or it will be wrong & your new battery will have a short life.

Consider the following:
2 identical Macans. Same delivery day, same exact battery.

2 very different driving habits by the owners.

Car 1 a daily driver with ½ hr. commute, mostly freeway non rush hour travel.
Car 2 driven 1x/week, short distances stop & go. Never used a battery tender/charger.

It is probable that Car 2 will need a new battery years sooner vs. car #1. That battery was often undercharged, not good for long battery life.

Both cars had the same exact original battery registration with the same exact specs.

Wouldn't you think the computer instructs the alternator to charge the batteries differently, due to their different state of charge & other factors monitored by the computer?

Car 2 probably is usually @ 50% charge & car 1 probably @ 90-100% daily.

So I wonder if the computer really only needs to "know" the Ah & CCA of the replacement battery.

If you bought a brand that was NOT listed in the tool's choices but had 92Ah & 850 CCA & entered the Varta series # +1 & also the name Varta, wouldn't your charging system correctly charge it?

The tricky question is what if the new battery was a brand not listed & had slightly more Ah say 95 Ah & more CCA say, 900 (I think that Interstate had those specs)

Entering fake Varta inf. & serial number may still work very well.

I would feel better if the tool allowed you to enter, rather than select from preloaded choices, the important specs.
The following is from the Autel OM and seems to answer your first question:
The battery management system (BMS) is a critical electronic system of vehicle that monitors and manages a rechargeable battery. The purpose of the BMS is to guarantee safe and reliable battery operation by monitoring and evaluating the battery states, including state of charge, state of health, and state of life, controlling the charging and discharging of the battery, balancing the cell etc. As an electrochemical product, a battery acts differently under different operational and environmental conditions.

I don't think the computer needs to know the CCA, just the AH spec and if the new battery is AGM or not. When I replaced the battery in my 2011 X5 and had one of the indys I use register the new battery for me, I watched him do it. He did not need to enter the battery manufacturer (of course perhaps Porsche is a bit different), nor the serial number, and he showed me a record (retrieved from the car) that showed past battery replacements that showed date, odometer, type (AGM, for example) and AH rating.

I could be wrong, but it all leads me to believe the input of the battery manufacturer info and serial number is stored in the car merely to assist subsequent technicians in diagnosing battery issues (for example if the battery currently in the car was properly registered). BTW, I believe the video shows the Autel lists all possible battery manufacturers (just remember there are a lot more brand names than manufacturers) and if you want to accurately show the correct manufacturer you might need to use the internet to ascertain who the actual manufacturer of the battery is (if it's not noted on the battery itself), although I suspect the manufacturer identity has no effect on the charging strategy the computer employs.

As for your question on the battery (AH) capacity, I guess before I went out and bought a new one I would make sure I knew what AH alternatives were available to me on the diagnostic tool and make sure I bought a battery matching one of those alternatives (and of course with no less AH than the vehicle was delivered with, if I recall correctly from either the video or the Autel OM the Autel can tell you the AH capacity of the original factory installed battery.
 
Agree the serial number is informational versus actionable. Otherwise there would be no need to ask for the battttery type and AH. The computer would already know that based on the serial number.
 
This entire battery thing is very irritating. Like many others, I've owned different marques and models using from old wet cell to maintenance free to AGM. Coming from cold country, you knew batteries died in 3 years, go buy a diehard. But Porsche died in 2 years. AGM is better but this battery thing is crazy and I've not seen it anywhere near as bad as in other cars. And this goes back to Porsche in the early 80s.

Whenever I hear "But my other car had this option free", my answer is "porsche tax, deal with it or go buy your old car". But this isn't an option. This is a core part of the car, not an option, necessary to be functional.

I was told to get a CTEK a decade ago. From then I learned ALWAYS have the car on the CTEK. ALWAYS if not used in a couple of days. Imagine my shock when told you just can't go down to Sears to get a new Diehard. They can't program it.

And then I learned, you pay the price for the marque. Don't like it, move on. But what was to program on a non-AGM battery? Its not like the ECU had to know its 14.7 to charge, all the batteries were 14.4. It had to be the idea of the algorithms thinking the NEW battery was OLD. That's not a good thing. Battery life will suffer.

The most fundamental question is WHY is battery life so poor? WHY do all these cars end up on battery tenders if not driven 6K miles a rolling year? What is Porsche doing so there is too much a parasitic draw. It can't just be the alarm.

This is NOT true of other carmakers. I've had cars sit a month and start right up. So what is Porsche doing thats killing the batteries?

Oh, and now they are going to sell Electric Battery Porsches. I don't think their track record on batteries is all so good. How could I trust that?
 
I really wish someone could explain the importance of the BSM/serial number. I went to the parts dept and saw the new Porsche branded batteries on a rack. They had one for a Macan, but no BSM sticker on it. (!). The parts guy said they have them on file (?). I think that’s to keep people like me from taking a picture of the serial number to use with another battery like the interstate one. $597 for the battery, $640 installed.

Still shopping. My optima charger reports my battery is down to about 33% but still at a good voltage after a month or so of 8 mile daily one way commutes. Flirting with fire at this point. Once charged the optima charger says it’s 90%, so I’ll just be more careful about keeping it on the charger. Mine will be 5 years old in march.
 
This inability for the owner of the car to register their new battery is just plain bunk. When we buy the cars we should be able to purchase a gizmo to do this as an 'add on'. Everything else is offered, so why not this?
 
Well for all my cars in the last 30 years I have always just put in a new battery without doing anything else, including Lexus and BMW.

And I am going to do this for my Macan when the time comes.
 
Discussion starter · #338 ·
I am thinking that the battery registration may be required of more & more new cars, especially high end cars.

Could it mainly just be a way for dealers to increase profits? Changing a battery is one of the easiest DIY items & cars frequently need new batteries. Also many auto parts stores install batteries @ N/C (Not the kind you need to register)
Perhaps the dealerships/manufacturers want to claw back lost business from these auto parts stores?

For the old lead acid batteries, it always cost a lot more, maybe 2x as much or even more, to have an Indy shop or the dealer replace it vs. buying one & having Pep Boys, Autozone or even Walmart or Sears (remember them?) do it for you.

Just wondering.

I think this issue will have much more data in several more years.
People will either ignore the registration & just swap out with a Bosch or Interstate of similar specs, maybe using some tool or extra battery to maintain 12V during the swap & maybe not. They will post results here. (I failed to register & my new battery died in 1 year! Or I failed to register or even maintain 12V during 10 minute swap & 4 years later...no issues)

I wonder how many people check their battery with a multimeter from the jump start posts? I bet not many.
If you drive it most days & just came back from a ½ hr. drive & your Macan battery is only 70% charged.......?
 
Car batteries are not that fragile. The worst thing for a car battery is overcharging, and it mostly applies to lead acid batteries.

Per discussion here, the alternator may undercharge a new battery if it's not registered. So nothing to worry about.
 
AGM batteries also do not like being overcharged and it will shorten their life.

For what it's worth I did the swap a few weeks ago and did not register a new battery. I doubt in my case the battery will be overcharged since my wife barely drives it 6000 miles a year and it is 95 aH instead of 92. Also I do not think the Macan knows how to compensate for the life of the battery since the original battery was depleted.

Regardless I will be keeping a close eye on it with my multimeter.
 
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