Can anyone comment on the MD806Pro vs the MD808Pro? What, if anything, does the MD806Pro not do that the MD808Pro does?

 

What numbers did you enter for the following:
Serial # 15 Spaces
Porsche Part # 11 Spaces

Thanks in advance

 

Here is my take on this. As with IPv6 (for those in the network arena) we're way overdue to migrate to 48v systems from the trusty century old 12v given the myriad of devices that the little 12v needs to feed. Heck just the 11 inch head unit must guzzle a ton of the total electrical consumption. Add things like ASS and things become critical quickly.

Given this, the need to safeguard the battery as well as the alternator becomes an ever more pressing problem; keep the battery charged enough while maintaining sufficient voltage to all devices out of a little puny 12v.

So as batteries degrade, the alternator and voltage regulator need to apportion (increase) limited resources to an ever growing pool of devices. So in order to maintain a real time picture of the health of the battery and thus provide power where required without overloading, a monitoring system was created which is then used by the voltage regulator to keep everything in line. Thus if you simply place a new battery with the old info (serial etc.) you'll soon kill the new battery as the regulator informs the alternator to supply ever more current, based on the old battery history/health, which the new one doesn't need.

Having said this, as Mr. Wahl mentioned, it's the process that's a pain and while technically it is understandable as to why registration of a new battery is required (as well as the type: AGM, wet etc.) the sales people saw this as a new method of generating cash from consumer to dealer/manufacturer. Some folks mentioned $500+ to change a battery, while they may think that's OK, to me that's an abomination when you can find an interstate battery or other for under $200 at Costco.

As to adding the cost of an analyzer (Autel, Launch etc.) to the above cost is nonsense as that was not borne exclusively for changing the battery but helps with millions of other issues. So no, I don't add the cost of my analyzer everytime I use it and then subtract a fortune the dealer would charge for the same job. So $500+ to change a battery is ridiculous.

The reason why registration is necessary is clear it's the method that's appalling

siberian

 

One thing I haven’t figured out about this battery charging system in the Macan. My 10+ years old battery tender is smart enough not to overcharge the battery, being it new or old.

How would the modern charging system in the Macan overcharge a new battery without registration? It doesn’t make any sense to me at all.

 

Let me try once again and explain. The system collects data on the health of the battery and uses that to apportion current based on (I would assume) a list of priorities. If the system, based on historical data it accesses feels that given specific data it should be outputting more current it will thus overload the new battery that doesn't need that much power.

I would assume that the old method of simply reading the "draw" from the alternator is no longer enough given the number of accessories a vehicle supports so this new approach was used. It will be a while until 48v is generalized, but what we may see (if not already in top end models) is a 48v backbone and 12v runs to specific devices.

siberian

 

I think you have a good point(s). But the basic truth is the system should be smart enough not to overcharge the battery under any circumstance.

Does that sound logical? Heck, as I said a 10+ years old battery tender, which cost me about $20, can avoid that.

 

Well the issue with a 10 year old battery charger is that it's dealing with a static, non temperature event driven system. It's a battery resting in a garage under NO load. You car battery is constantly under varying load, temperature etc. requiring constant adjustments which (I would venture) is kept in a log and used to fine tune exactly what is needed. Here is perhaps a better analogy: consider an irrigation system that you program to water every day at a given hour. If it happens to pour rain, it's still watering as the timer set says Tuesday at 7pm you water. Compare that to a drip irrigation system that has embedded sensors in the ground and measures the ground moisture and THOSE sensors not a predetermined 10 year old battery charger or simple timer, that decide when and how much to water/charge.

Just some thoughts as to why just replacing a battery without updating may terminate your new battery with extreme prejudice way before its time.

siberian

 

My understanding is when the car is running the alternator will first provide for all the current load demanded by various sources, and then charge the battery with spare capacity. That means once the engine starts running the car battery is under no load.

The battery is only needed whenever the engine is not running and when the starter is drawing current from it to start the engine.

 

You're of course quite right, my bad on that point. The rest stands. But your call just let us know if you decide not to register.

siberian

 

I don’t really mind either way, but want to think of it logically.

 

I am frustrated about this issue. It is one caused by the folks that designed the car. They screwed it up and they should make it right for the purchasers of their vehicles. Porsche should make a system available for those of us that go to Costco and buy the appropriate batteries to install them in the parking lot and move forward.

This should not require a bazillion dollar trip to some dealer to register.

 

I am frustrated about this issue. It is one caused by the folks that designed the car. They screwed it up and they should make it right for the purchasers of their vehicles. Porsche should make a system available for those of us that go to Costco and buy the appropriate batteries to install them in the parking lot and move forward.

This should not require a bazillion dollar trip to some dealer to register.

I hear your frustration, but if you don't wish to spend a couple of hundred dollars for an Autel unit, I would also point out that any European car specialist is likely to be equipped to register your battery for you for far less than a bazillion dollars.

Several years ago when our X5 needed a new battery and I did not understand the registration process as I do now, I did the install myself and
then stopped by one of the indys I use, who registered the new battery for me on the spot. Took about 10-15 minutes and he charged me $50, and he said the process for the Macan was similar.

I repeatedly learned my lesson the hard way long ago to avoid dealers as much as feasible for non warranty service. This is not unique to Porsche nor just German cars.

My favorite story is when my old Pathfinder needed a new exhaust resonator at the rear end of the exhaust system. Went to Midas and Meineke and got prices, but they wanted to install a generic part that would have made the exhaust tip look non OEM. So I stopped by Bridgewater Nissan here in New Jersey to see how much more it would cost to go OEM. I explained to them exactly what I needed (all you needed to do to see it was to get down on your knees behind the car) but they insisted on putting the car on the lift to take a look. Took them no more than a few minutes to identify the problem and look up the prices and generate a quote, which was about 5 times as much as what Midas and Meineke wanted. I fully expected they would charge more, but not 5 times as much.

When I declined, they told me I owed them a $95 diagnostic fee and they would not give me back my car unless I paid it! The Nissan dealers in my area are complete scum.

 

@jzwu, you have a smartcharger. It charges to the right level and then goes to float mode. As long as the SOH of the battery is sufficient, it will do the job as intended. At some point it will age so that it will no longer hold a sufficient charge and the maintainer should tell you that. The age of your charger doesn't matter. I showed you your manual. It works. The system is static. It would charge to the same level if the battery was out of the car. Charge and float.

The car is much different. It has to worry about start/stop, some do a slight version of braking regeneration as the alternator puts energy into the battery while braking. It does not charge at a flat 14.7 volts. Just watch your voltmeter. It can charge at 15.3V and goes all over the place depending upon load. Put the car in sport mode and it always should crank up the voltage. If you don't tell computer the battery is new, it thinks its old. Thats seems to be the consensus. And treats it different. Why? Who knows but that seems to be the consensus and you will prematurely wear it out. To test that theory, get two cars, drive them identically and find out. Meanwhile, your battery maintainer don't care. It just sees a battery. Charge it up, get the voltage right, done. It doesn't worry about the dynamics of driving.

Anyone don't like that Porsche charges their Porsche Tax? Go buy a Honda. Its that simple. Complaining isn't going to change anything. The Porsche Police didn't come and force anyone to buy one of their models. You can vote with your wallet.

 

Lots of theories, conjecture and logic. It’s all good!

The only way to test it, barring Porsche telling us the truth, is like you said. But in real world I think the test already exists de facto. For example, 2 new cars one is barely used and battery perfectly maintained by a tender, and the other heavily used, e.g., as a taxi/Uber. Both are registered equally initially, but they age and wear like an almost new and a heavily used battery, say after 1-2 years. Therefore, the original registration doesn’t matter in this case, thus proving it‘s useless.

Does that example make sense? I know there are many variables but I also don’t think car battery charging system, though advanced nowadays, is as complicated as rocket science. My feeling is that the largest variable factor is how the battery is utilized, maintained and the environmental conditions, which vary widely in the real world. The best way to measure battery health and subsequent charging is therefore best done directly in situ, instead of based on past data, i. e., registration.

 

Didn't I just say that?

As I said, think of it as the difference between an drip irrigation system and a simple timer to water your lawn. So the solution again is:

1) Pay the dealer a fortune

2) Buy an analyzer and do it yourself
a) Find a friend that has one and go over with a case of beer or a good bottle of vino

3) Get a car that:
a) Doesn't do battery registration (if they now exist)
b) One that doesn't cost a gadzillion to do this by a dealer or indie

4) Don't register a new battery and post your results some time down the road.

I think the subject has been beaten to death...

siberian

 

I think the subject has been beaten to death...

siberian

Yes, you did. I didn't meant to sound harsh about it. But I'm getting tired of hearing this. Its been argued for far too long. Its not going to change. It is what it is, and if you don't like it, then go to another marque. But I also know that new people will come and ask the same question over and over again as is the nature of car forums.

 

From your words to God's ears...

siberian

 

Neither is a drip irrigation system yet folks still waste a gadzillion gallons of water. But I respectfully think we've beaten this to death. You question or can't accept whatever logic Porsche etc. has for doing it this way, either write to them and ask, or do whatever you think is not rocket science and let's move on. Continuing to question as to why a standard charger will or will not ... Anyway, signing off this thread.

siberian

 

Agreed! Enough of this. I may just test it out myself when the time comes to change a new battery in my Macan.

The worst case is I am out $200 prematurely. It’s worth it to solve that mystery.

 

I think this thread is valuable. We have learned & some have experienced, how to DIY purchase, replace & register a new battery. We also have leaned what some have paid to Porsche dealers to to the replacement/registration & what some have paid to Indy shops to do it & some have DIY replaced but, paid an Indy to register the new battery.
More & more Macan owners will be replacing their batteries in the coming years.

We may even get data from DIY replacements with No registration done (gasp!)
We may hear about DIY, no registration & still going strong after 5 years. (4-5 years from now?)
Or DIY, No registration & premature battery failure after only 1-2 years. (If that happens will the Battery be replaced @ N/C under warranty?

I would ask that anyone who buys a battery in the U.S. to post brand, cost & specs.
For example:
Interstate MTX-49 H8 specs have been reported in this thread
To repeat:
36 month full replacement warranty
Part Number MTX-49/H8
Group Size H8
Cold Cranking Amps 900
Cranking Amps 1000
(RC) Min @ 25 Amp 160
Amp Hours (Ah) @ 20 Hr 95
Length 13 15/16
Width 6 15/16
Height 7 1/2
Weight 58.8
Termination Code Common Code A
Voltage 12
Wet/Dry D
Available thought Costco & for non-members like me, local Interstate dealer
Interstate Batteries | MTX-49/H8
{$236 MSRP}
Unfortunately, the very nice Bosch Battery I was going to get, when needed, seem unavailable.
(Both @ Pep Boys & @ Bosch website)
Bosch 49-850BAGM
Had 4 year full replacement warranty, 850 CCA & 92Ah.

Anyone who does DIY registration, please list the equipment you used, any tips or steps that you think would be helpful, especially how you dealt with the battery serial # issue. Also whether you maintained 12V during the battery swap & if so, how.

 

More info on car supports and tools:
I ordered a new one (instead of Icarsoft).
Autel md808 pro works.
Registered new battery (MOTOMASTER ELIMINATOR AGM Group Size 49 (H8/L5) Battery, 850 CCA). My old Varta was at 71% ageing output.

Now I'm at 100% stable and Start-stop works like a charm.

 

Years and mileage on your old battery?

I never used start-stop on my Macan since new. Now I have 41k miles and 5 years 9 months on the original battery. Dealer just tested it as in Good condition (green) on the inspection report.

 

2016 n about 68k miles.
My auto start stop wasn't working (to low voltage even after tender)

 

Sounds like you used a lot of the start-stop feature, which is a battery hog.

 

Was the only feature affected by battery.

 

What I like about the auto Start-stop is how quiet it gets in the car.
It's an adaptation to start smoothly tho.

 

I have the following:
Costco Interstate Battery
CTEK trickle charger
MD808 Pro

Before starting, I would appreciate confirming what I need to use for the Part # and Serial #?

Thanks in advance to those who have already done it.

 

It does not matter what you enter in those fields. I merely put in nonsensical strings of numbers, and it accepted them.

As mentioned before by myself and others, there’s no way the car is going to have the capability to recognize valid and invalid part and serial numbers. For example, part numbers will almost certainly change in the future, and there would be no way for the car to recognize what is valid.

I believe the reason that part and serial numbers are requested is so technicians working on the car in the future can see the car’s history of battery replacements and how old the current battery is. There is not as much going on here as some people seem to think there is.

 

Agree and one can look at the Label on the battery itself to tell the mfg month/year of any car battery.

 

one can look at the Label on the battery itself to tell the mfg month/year of any car battery.

Yes, but it does not tell you the actual installation date. Battery dealers should be rotating stock, but I know from experience it does not always happen. In the past when shopping for batteries at Walmart and Pep Boys I have found some on the shelf to be more than a year past their manufacture date. And sometimes the oldest batteries are buried in the back. Definitely makes sense to pay attention when selecting one.

Also, I would assume if a technician is trying to diagnose electrical system problems it could be valuable for him or her to know if the car has repeatedly needed a new battery at relatively short intervals.

 

I called Bosch (cannot seem to email them) Asked on voicemail what AGM they sell to replace the discontinued 49850BAGM.

Got message that they have S6588B

S6 AGM Car Battery | Bosch Auto Parts

Bosch’s S6 High Performance AGM Battery provide excellent charge acceptance & peak power for vehicles with start/stop systems, regenerative braking & the highest electronic demand.

www.boschautoparts.com

L&W seem very close & do not see a value for H.
Ah = 95 so a bit higher than the 92Ah in the 49850BAGM.
Has 4 year warranty which is better than Interstate.
I cannot tell from the photos if the + terminal is on the Right side when label faces you. This is how it was with the 49850BAGM.
I do not know the cost.
I can't find a store online or local that sells it.
Their website directed me to: Walmart, PepBoys & Advance Auto Parts.
None carry it.
I will call Boesch during business hours when I have time.

I heard that no Costco in Phoenix or nearby have Interstate in stock & the Interstate distributor apparently increased price from $233 last February to $274 now. (3rd hand information so YMMV)

That old Bosch used to be <$150 @ Pepboys but, I think it was Internet sale.

I like Bosch AGM bc I have it in my rarely driven Jag & I almost never charge it & still SOH was 89% after 3 years when I last checked it last month.

 

I called Bosch (cannot seem to email them) Asked on voicemail what AGM they sell to replace the discontinued 49850BAGM.

Got message that they have S6588B

S6 AGM Car Battery | Bosch Auto Parts

Bosch’s S6 High Performance AGM Battery provide excellent charge acceptance & peak power for vehicles with start/stop systems, regenerative braking & the highest electronic demand.

www.boschautoparts.com

L&W seem very close & do not see a value for H.
Ah = 95 so a bit higher than the 92Ah in the 49850BAGM.
Has 4 year warranty which is better than Interstate.
I cannot tell from the photos if the + terminal is on the Right side when label faces you. This is how it was with the 49850BAGM.
I do not know the cost.
I can't find a store online or local that sells it.
Their website directed me to: Walmart, PepBoys & Advance Auto Parts.
None carry it.
I will call Boesch during business hours when I have time.

I heard that no Costco in Phoenix or nearby have Interstate in stock & the Interstate distributor apparently increased price from $233 last February to $274 now. (3rd hand information so YMMV)

That old Bosch used to be <$150 @ Pepboys but, I think it was Internet sale.

I like Bosch AGM bc I have it in my rarely driven Jag & I almost never charge it & still SOH was 89% after 3 years when I last checked it last month.

Bosch S6588B S6 Flat Plate AGM Battery
Rock Auto and Amazon both sell it, but I have no comment on whether that is the correct battery for your Macan 😀