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It is an interesting question though if it's really needed if you have stop/start shut off.

I have yet to replace the battery in the Macan, but if it's like the BMW, the registration process asks you if the battery is AGM or not. Assumedly the car adjusts the charging strategy based on the type of battery.

That being said, don't think I'm willing to be the guinea pig for trying an non AGM battery. There may be other factors that are way beyond my knowledge, and the upcharge for AGM batteries seems to be decreasing as they become more commonplace.
 
Thanks for the info you guys entered. I really was hoping to be able to by the H8 (49) AGM battery for $179.99 especially with Costco's incredible return policy but for some unknown reason they cannot seem to order that exact battery. So if I were to install a battery myself will my car still function or will I be left stranded and have to have it towed to a local stealership? Has anyone purchased a Scan tool that can register or pair a new aftermarket AGM battery with their Macan? My wife's Macan is a 2016 Turbo with 63K miles on it and a production date of DECEMBER 2015. Is this about the time that the batteries start to fail?
 
The "kicker" is the sticker on the battery....A BMS sticker. (Battery Maintenance System). Look on your OEM battery and you'll see the sticker. All that info from a new battery must be entered into the ECU to "register" the new battery. Trouble is, all the aftermarket batteries don't have the BMS sticker...Just the ones from the dealer.
 
NC Trackrat, how sure are you about the need for accurate serial and part number information?

After my experience with our X5, I came away with a strong impression that the battery part number and serial number were recorded merely for informational purposes and do not affect the charging strategy as the size of the battery, the type of the battery, and the age of the battery do, and that information might be used, for example, for someone working on the car at a later date to verify that the current battery was actually registered in case there are subsequent electrical problems with the car or there is a need to verify the age of the current battery.

Of course the Porsche battery registration system may be very different than what BMW uses, but the more I learn about it, the more it seems like it’s very similar.
 
This hostage Porsche holds over you for battery replacement is unconscionable. We should create a poll requesting whether Porsche should unleash the mystery of battery replacement so we normal people can walk into Costco and buy and register a replacement battery without going through a dealer.
 
Standard lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when recharged. In an open environment like under a hood it’s not an issue. In your trunk the gas builds and becomes explosive at concentrations as low as 4%. This is why you must use a AGM battery in enclosed spaces.
 
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Standard lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when recharged. In an open environment like under a hood it’s not an issue. In your trunk the gas builds and becomes explosive at concentrations as low as 4%. This is why you must use a AGM battery in enclosed spaces.
AGM batteries don't do the same? Then in the videos above why do both the old and replacement AGM batteries have vent tubes?
 
We should create a poll requesting whether Porsche should unleash the mystery of battery replacement so we normal people can walk into Costco and buy and register a replacement battery without going through a dealer.
This is getting old.

Technology from Porsche trickles down from the top of the food chain to the bottom. If I remember right, AGM batteries became standard in 2012 with the first 991.1, then onto the 981, not sure about the Cayennes. Macan came out in 2014. AGM batteries are robust enough to handle continually turning on the engine for start/stop. For start/stop, you can thank the environmentalists in Europe. If you want to understand how AGM is different than the old lead/acid batteries, go to Battery University and start reading. The charging voltage is different and battery chargers have different settings, that is, 14.4 vs 14.7V. They are supposed to be more sensitive to rapid charging and heat. In your MFD add the voltage to your display. You will see it move around from 12.5 to as much as 15.4, dependent upon what's going on. Its also temperature dependent.

Its not 1965 anymore. The car has a battery sensor. "Programming" the battery means registering with the computer the capacity, technology, series number, and part #. If you choose not to do this, everything I read says that the computer will think the old battery is there with its data, and more important, if you use the exact same part #, the old state of charge. So the car will be "charging" that new battery as if its near death resulting in a shorten life span. But since I'm not a Porsche mechanic, that's just what I've read. YMMV

Clearly there are now Autel diagnostic units to do the programming. Watch the video.


Complaining about this won't change a thing. Stuttgart isn't going to read some post buried in thousands of threads in one of dozens of pcar forums and decide "Hey, yeah, we need to go back to the old way of business and just make things cheap for our customers, pick up a DieHard from Sears, bolt that thing in, and done. Lets loose the energy management system we just spend $$$ doing R&D on to allow our cars to meet those EU emissions regulations and avoid the fines cause we want to ripoff the customer ?".

Sorry, but as "they" say. You can never go home. Progress is the future.
 
While I’m not a battery expert, the way it was explained to me is that the gas is produced in an overcharged situation. AGM handle higher voltage charging well and don’t gas as much, but still need venting.

I think these AGM batteries are remote mounted because they really don’t like heat. It’s been years since I researched the topic and moved the battery to the trunk of my 57. That was a stupid amount of work, BTW.
 
According to the Battery University article I attached, AGM's are sensitive to overcharging. Wonder if that's the reason for battery registration...so that the vehicle can more optimally charge the battery according to it's capacity and age.

Never knew AGM's are sensitive to heat, but the article mentions that too. I always thought the reason for trunk mounted batteries was for weight distribution. Perhaps that's merely a secondary benefit.
 
This video is better. Its not 1965. Forget about what you know from the past. Technology goes forward.

This shows why the vent is there. Overcharging. AGM wants to be charged low and slow unlike lead acid where you used to see the rapid chargers. You might think the people who engineered the cars knew what they were doing.

So if you don't register the battery, its probably going to overcharge it thinking its old and kill it quickly.

But, people are people. I've read cases where people ignore it all thinking "I'm not going to let them rip me off and forget about registering. Good luck.

@Shark, weight distribution is a thing. Space is too. Sometimes the engine compartment is too cramped.

 
I've never taken any car to a dealer for normal / routine service and never will. Of course there is a way to do it yourself. (And as proven in the video on post 49) The only question is: What tool do you need to buy? What is the cheapest tool that will do the job?

Has anyone here changed their own battery? What tool did you use to register the new battery?

Autel 906 - $920 (used in video on post 49.)
iCarsoft Por II - $150 (maybe will work, maybe not? I see comments in both directions on various forums and threads.)
Foxwell Nt510 - $155 (Per their site, it will do it, but I'm not sure. It would be nice if someone who has used this tool can confirm if successful.)
Will other ones work? e.g. Autel MD806/8, Durametric Pro?
 
Discussion starter · #237 ·
And for those who DIY AND registered your new battery....What exact brand/model battery did you use & did it have a serial # that was accepted by the tool you used to register it?

Can't buy Varta AGM 92Ah in the USA. That is what came with my 2016 Macan Turbo. 4+ years & still working well but It will need replacement. $650+ for dealer to replace the battery is a joke. But may have to bend over if cannot find a good solution when the time comes.
 
And for those who DIY AND registered your new battery....What exact brand/model battery did you use & did it have a serial # that was accepted by the tool you used to register it?

Can't buy Varta AGM 92Ah in the USA. That is what came with my 2016 Macan Turbo. 4+ years & still working well but It will need replacement. $650+ for dealer to replace the battery is a joke. But may have to bend over if cannot find a good solution when the time comes.
All these people on this forum and no one has given the answer to a very expensive question. What is the answer?
 
All these people on this forum and no one has given the answer to a very expensive question. What is the answer?
Think it's because few of us have needed a new battery yet. But I expect that will start to change rapidly in the next 12 to 24 months.

I am getting the sense AGM batteries routinely last 6 years or more so long as you don't tend to leave the battery discharged. Recently purchased a battery analyzer and checked the AGM batteries on the Macan, our 4 year old M235, and our X5 (which also has a 4 year old battery, and with the V8 engine is notorious for being tough on batteries). All tested as being excellent, despite I was expecting the X5 battery to be only marginal.

Willing to bet in the next 12 to 18 months someone here will discover an aftermarket piece of equipment in the $200-$400 range capable of registering replacement aftermarket Macan batteries. The reason I'm confident is because I'm familiar with how it's done on BMW's.
 
All these people on this forum and no one has given the answer to a very expensive question. What is the answer?
I've never taken any car to a dealer for normal / routine service and never will. Of course there is a way to do it yourself. (And as proven in the video on post 49) The only question is: What tool do you need to buy? What is the cheapest tool that will do the job?

Has anyone here changed their own battery? What tool did you use to register the new battery?

Imagine that. Exact same question on renntech and the exact same answers here. Renntech is technical oriented. They would know. An indy can lease PIWIS. Just ask if they have one.
 
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