You can adjust the gap by turning to rubber screw on the side of the headlight.

 

If the rear dust-collector really bothers you, carry a little diluted Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) and a few microfiber towels in the space around the spare -- problem solved!

 

All of your input is sincerely appreciated. And don't worry, I am not suicidal over any of this. I have many things to be thankful for, not just the Macan. I am not a clean freak, but, in my one month of ownership of the Macan, I have washed it more times than both my 996 and the 540i, together, got washed in a couple of years, maybe 3 years. So you can see why the dirt magnet discovery is slightly traumatizing. lol I was thinking of carrying around a bottle of compressed air bottle blow the dirt away and avoid scratching up the paint, but the Optimum No Rinse sounds like an interesting product. I will begin referring to it as a Kick-Ass Dirt Magnet and smile, now, thanks to pygmyoctopus' inspiration.

 

I was thinking of carrying around a bottle of compressed air bottle blow the dirt away and avoid scratching up the paint, but the Optimum No Rinse sounds like an interesting product. I will begin referring to it as a Kick-Ass Dirt Magnet and smile, now, thanks to pygmyoctopus' inspiration.

Compressed air can occurred to me as well, but might not be the best idea if you're in the habit of parking your car in the sun - explosions and all that.

ONR is a fantastic product - I use it to do rinseless washing for my Macan. Works beautifully and no marring of the paintwork (two bucket method, high quality microfiber tools). Highly recommended.

 

Hallelujah!!

 

The ultimate answer to all the world's problems...
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DUCT TAPE!!!
>

 

Had my Macan over one year now but none of these issues with my baby. Looks like a larger gap than normal in picture #3 with comparing it to mine.

 

How come I can't see the pictures? The links of the images are not highlighted, and the areas of the actual limages show grey no entry round signs. I can see images from other threads though.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

Herein lies the design knowledge gap of a sports car company building an SUV. Also see thread: Buyer Beware! Fake SS Skid Plates!

 

See post #18 for working links.

 

Having just detailed my Macan, I wanted to see if I was suffering from the same pebble "stick" as the OP. Having looked carefully, there's only a small squarish hole that the pebbles can go through. It's not as if the "slit" goes across the wheel well.

Not sure if it's because my gap is large enough that pebbles would just not get stuck, but glad to say I have none.

Seems that with a little ingenuity, that small "hole" could be easily plugged.
@MarkInMd, time for some ingenuity. lol

 

Having just detailed my Macan, I wanted to see if I was suffering from the same pebble "stick" as the OP. Having looked carefully, there's only a small squarish hole that the pebbles can go through. It's not as if the "slit" goes across the wheel well.

Not sure if it's because my gap is large enough that pebbles would just not get stuck, but glad to say I have none.

Seems that with a little ingenuity, that small "hole" could be easily plugged.

@MarkInMd , time for some ingenuity. lol

Are you able to take a photo of your car, looking along the side of the car toward the front, into the front portion of the wheel well? As you have seen in my photo, the space there starts at about tire-top height and extends all the way up along the hood edge toward the top of the tire. It is about 1/2" wide and at least 8 inches long. It is almost big enough to get your fingers into and quite different from a "squarish hole" you describe. I'm curious if your 2015 is that different from my 2016. Thanks!

 

I probably missed this thread before and after reading all the posts here I can say I don't have any issues with my car attracting pebbles and other stuff. However, I agree that the rear windshield is a dust magnet on the and there were posts about this before. No matter how clean my car is the rear windshield is always full of dust. Not sure if there is any product you could use that instead of attract dust would repel it.

Back to the title of this thread and more specifically to the hood the crackling/clicking noise on the driver's side of the hood is definitely driving me nuts. My car has been in the dealer 4 times to fix that and they used from felt tape to replacing the metal pieces but it may go away for a while but then comes back. If I press the side of the hood from the outside next to the driver's door I can hear the clicking sound that follows me all the time while driving in low speeds. Any thoughts on how can I get rid of that?

 

so I bought two different bottles, one blue, one green, of ONR. I've yet to even use it. What the heck is it? How does one use it?

 

I will take the pic right now. Will post it in few minutes.

If I'm incorrect, which I don't think I am, I blame it on compression stockings the doctor prescribed and I picked up today to take care of some venous insufficiency in my ankle. It must be squeezing the blood off to my brain. :laugh:

 

Here is a pic (don't judge pic quality. I opened up the shadows and exposure to the max so you could see it.)

 

Now if you are talking about that horizontal slit in the wheel well, at least in mine, it's almost closed or top portion is flapped over. They make some kind of metallic foil tape that would close that gap if that's what you are speaking of.

I'll post a clearer pic now, but keep in mine I'm looking up at it and it exaggerates it. Also, no one is doubting what you are experiencing or that it sucks, but seems like an easy fix.

Stay tuned for next pic.

 

I actually misspoke. The bottom of the slit rides up and on the top portion instead of the other way around as I said above.

 

Okay, now that I took another look at your pics, I see what you are talking about. You mean where the hood comes down and meets the fender and that rocks are getting thrown up and then through where the bumper meets.

I thought you meant through the wheel well and that's why I was confused. So mine appears very close to the way yours does but seems as if it would be very difficult for something to be thrown up and forward. Maybe mine is pinched off a bit more.

 

I had the same problem. The gap between the hood met the front fender on driver side was larger than passenger side. So I try to adjust it by myself. The rubber screw on the the side of the headlight is where the hood stop. I just turned it clockwise to make the gap match the passenger side.

 

FWIW, I was talking to the diagnostic tech at my dealership today (car in for 10,000 mi service) about the rattle noticed by some (me included) on front driver or passenger side. He saw the tape I had put on the slider and elsewhere as others have done on the forum to address rattle. He said that it was good I did not try to adjust any of the bolts or screws around headlamp, as the pressure tolerances for area where clam shell wraps around headlights is somewhat narrow. According to him, if the hood applies too much pressure there, the headlights may shatter.

I know no more than what he said and don't know where precisely you made adjustment, but just FYI.

 

For anyone having difficulty seeing the area in question, this photo show it with arrows pointing into the space.

 

Thanks for the pics. your angle of the photos is greater - i.e. taken from farther away from the wheel and at a larger angle to the car so the gap looks smaller. If you align your angle of view more along side the door and look into the wheel well from there, the gap will appear closer to its full width and will be larger in a photo. Works best with light coming onto the front of the car and the wheel well less let to accentuate the gap between hood and engine compartment plastic shrouds attached to the body.

 

That is unacceptable build quality. Even newer manufacturers such as Hyundai and Kia do a better job.
Porsche has been around for how many years??

 

It seems to me that you could easily buy some black adhesive weatherstripping and stick it against the body of the car. When the hood closes it would make a nice seal and keep any debris from entering that gap.
In addition, I think that ordering summer tires when you drive gravel roads (even short sections) on a regular basis was probably not the best choice. I drive gravel roads occasionally in my car with AS tires and have never had any issues.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I am counting on Porsche providing just that type of solution but not with adhesive, because in hot weather the risk that the adhesive becomes exposed and grabs grit is real.

Also, after working for many years in the tire industry, I can assure you that summer tires on gravel are just fine, as long as the gravel is not super deep. The issue with off-roading with summer tires is mud and snow. And I do not drive off-road anyway.

 

This is not a manufacturing build quality issue nor a hood adjustment issue. It is a design issue.

 

I agree. I am not sure if Porsche will ever come out with a solution to this. I think you may have to live with this...

I've been checking my front bumper area whenever I drive on unpaved/gravel roads. So far, I have 0 issues. Of course, my average speed was anywhere from 55 to 65mph aka within speed limits.

 

Yes I agree my pic angles are not proper. I initially misunderstood what you meant and after looking at your original pics realized what you were talking about.

 

I was referring to summer tires because they are stickier and will tend to pick up and throw the gravel much more than AS tires.
I don't think you would have any issues with the adhesive on the weatherstripping if you tried it. I've used this stuff in a number of similar applications and never had any issues. If you think Porsche is going to come up with something that attaches mechanically to the vehicle I think you'll be waiting a long time.
If you are truly concerned about your paint, try the the weatherstripping. If Porsche comes up with a solution it can be easily removed.