[weiz]

I bought a brake fluid analyzer tool. I went ahead & had Porsche do it @ 2 years but did not @ 4 years since my tool showed <1% water.

Is the analyzer tool something like this :

https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=brake%2Bfluid%2Btester&qid=1599156810&s=automotive&sr=1-5&th=1

Is the tool compatible with Macans?
Maybe I should get one of this and test my brake fluid, cause I bought the car used 4 months and 3K miles ago, so I am not aware of the previous services.

 

[Shark]

Be careful with that, the fluid on the container is one thing and the fluid inside the caliper is another history, that's the one subject to constant temperature changes, and is the one that degrades quicker and looses it's factory specs.
Replacing the brake fluid is very easy and cheap, stick to the factory guidelines and your car will retain the same brake power over the years.
Regarding the brake job, the flush is not a part of the brake replacement, they will only check for correct level after test drive the car and top up if necessary.

Well said...

 

[santastico]

The other thing I learned when my SA looked at my Indy shop quote was that the brake pads they were quoting were not Porsche OEM. May not be a big deal but I don't like non OEM parts on my car.

 

[shorton335]

I just had my 2017 Macan S (37k miles) at an independent shop. Ended up with a cost of $860, while the local dealership gave me a quote of $2850.
Indie shop performed Oil & Filter change, Cabin Air Filter change, PDK transmission fluid change, AT filter change.
While the dealership wanted to change: oil, pollen filter, engine air filter, spark plugs, PDK fluid, brake fluid.
Apparently, the indie shop checked and thought I did not need to change many of the things that the dealer asked to do. For example, he showed me a picture of my engine air filter and it still looked new, also spark plugs is not due at 60k according to him.

Do you guys think the indie shop did the necessary job for my car?
Also, the PDK fluid used was LM 20044, it does not seem to be one that is designed for porsche, or does it even matter?

I felt like I got a good deal, but I don't want to overlook anything that is needed for my service.
Thanks in advance

• Should be good to go on the PDK fluid - thats a Liqui Moly part number and is the equivalent to the OEM VW branded stuff (G-052-529-A2 fluid ). I think pentosin and motul also have to spec fluid.
• Engine air filters only if dirty
• Cabin filter super easy to do on your own.
• If you did not have plugs done at 30K, they are overdue - at least to be pulled and inspected. They can be reinstalled if not ready for a change, IMHO if paying labor to pull then just put in new ones.
• Brake fluid is every 2 years or 20K. This is also super easy to do and should not cost a lot at the Indy - unless you can do it yourself.

Seems like a fair deal!

 

[Chris in Philly]

The other thing I learned when my SA looked at my Indy shop quote was that the brake pads they were quoting were not Porsche OEM. May not be a big deal but I don't like non OEM parts on my car.

Think Porsche OEM pads are significantly overpriced. You are paying dearly for the name on the box. There are equal and better pads available for less money as has been discussed here many times.

 

[jzwu]

If Porsche brand brake pads are expensive, try to get OE brake pads.

 

[Sapphire68]

Porsche branded brake pads are severely overpriced. Oem for mine is Textar and you will pay twice as much for the Porsche branded pads. For your model I believe the oem is Ferodo and they are 3x more if you buy the Porsche stamp.

I have moved to all Akebono pads. They create way way way less brake dust. They feel a little softer than oem but the benefit of the cleaner wheels is a big plus for me.

 

[Her95B]

The factory pads on all Macan models is Akebono, but they are not ceramic and produce tons of dust, exactly as the Textar pads.

 

[Shark]

The factory pads on all Macan models is Akebono, but they are not ceramic and produce tons of dust, exactly as the Textar pads.

What would you recommend for my Turbo? I tend to be rather easy on my brakes, want to minimize dust, and assume I don't need to go crazy cost-wise. Thanks in advance.

 

[Sapphire68]

The factory pads on all Macan models is Akebono, but they are not ceramic and produce tons of dust, exactly as the Textar pads.

Definitely not in my case...2015 Turbo. First set of brakes were done by the dealer under service contract and I guess it is possible that they used something different than original. But I did the second set myself and they were all Textar. The Akebono I have now are much better on the dust, and yes they are the ceramic pads.

 

[Shark]

BTW FCP Euro has the LM product on sale for $10.95 per liter. Decent price in my experience. Here's a link: Porsche Macan Parts | FCP Euro

 

[jzwu]

Suncoast has the PDK fluid change kit, which contains 7 qts of fluid and a filter, 2 plugs, at ~$200. So the OEM fluid is about $23 a qt. Not too bad IMO.

 

[DanNYC]

Suncoast has the PDK fluid change kit, which contains 7 qts of fluid and a filter, 2 plugs, at ~$200. So the OEM fluid is about $23 a qt. Not too bad IMO.

I don’t understand. Why would you pay more than double for something that does the same job?

 

[Her95B]

What would you recommend for my Turbo? I tend to be rather easy on my brakes, want to minimize dust, and assume I don't need to go crazy cost-wise. Thanks in advance.

I've tried the Akebono Euro ceramic on my Q5 and they feel good, installed them not too long ago so I can't report on how long they last but overall I'm pleased with the feeling and performance and regarding dust they are way better than the factory pads.
I'm not sure if they are available for the Macan Turbo.

 

[Her95B]

Definitely not in my case...2015 Turbo. First set of brakes were done by the dealer under service contract and I guess it is possible that they used something different than original. But I did the second set myself and they were all Textar. The Akebono I have now are much better on the dust, and yes they are the ceramic pads.

The first brake replacement I did was back in 2016 and ever since the pads that we received from Champion Porsche were Akebono, maybe the early cars had Textar but I can't confirm that.
Also if you look at the rotors they are not the same as all the other Porsche models, so I believe that they are not Sebro as they look exactly as the Akebono rotors that you can buy online.

 

[Her95B]

I don’t understand. Why would you pay more than double for something that does the same job?

Some people rather spending a bit more and knowing that they used the right part/fluid for their cars.
Honestly we are not talking about something that needs replacement on a daily basis, every 40K I believe that it won't break your bank account and it gives you a piece of mind.
A lot of times the factory upgrades their fluids since they found better results in the long term with the upgraded fluid, if you go for an aftermarket equivalent you probably continue using the original one which is not 100% perfect for the car.
Again we are not talking about thousands, just a couple hundreds.

 

[iconoclast]

Is the analyzer tool something like this :

https://www.amazon.com/BELEY-Automotive-Moisture-Detection-Detector/dp/B07KCWKC5Y/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=brake%2Bfluid%2Btester&qid=1599156810&s=automotive&sr=1-5&th=1

Is the tool compatible with Macans?
Maybe I should get one of this and test my brake fluid, cause I bought the car used 4 months and 3K miles ago, so I am not aware of the previous services.

Yes, I bought "OEM Brake Fluid Tester model: 25269" Summer 2019.
from Amazon/Mobile Distributor Supply
$22.98
"With the OEMTOOLS Brake Fluid Tester , you can easily, quickly and precisely check the water content of all 8 types of polyglycol-based brake fluids DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5. 1, Adecco DOT 3, Pennzoil, Preston, Motor craft and Toyota DOT 3."

So you do not need a specific tool for different cars.

 

[iconoclast]

Be careful with that, the fluid on the container is one thing and the fluid inside the caliper is another history, that's the one subject to constant temperature changes, and is the one that degrades quicker and looses it's factory specs.
Replacing the brake fluid is very easy and cheap, stick to the factory guidelines and your car will retain the same brake power over the years.
Regarding the brake job, the flush is not a part of the brake replacement, they will only check for correct level after test drive the car and top up if necessary.

Interesting.

If the brake fluid sitting in the accessible brake fluid container is different than the brake fluid down at the calipers, why do they even make brake fluid testers & why do mechanics use them? So the brake fluid does not circulate all through the system, mixing like oil & coolant does?

 

[Her95B]

Interesting.

If the brake fluid sitting in the accessible brake fluid container is different than the brake fluid down at the calipers, why do they even make brake fluid testers & why do mechanics use them? So the brake fluid does not circulate all through the system, mixing like oil & coolant does?

The fluid on the container is not different, it's just sitting there not affected by many changes as the fluid sitting on the calipers.
And yes, the brake fluid do not circulate in the system, this is why it's very important to replace it based on the manufacturer guidelines.

 

[iconoclast]

When I get my brakes done I plan to replace the brake fluid, even if my tester still shows 0% water, as it did a few months ago.

I think the 911 has no recommendation to replace brake fluid & some cars do & some do not.

I have had an Indy mechanic tell me it is not needed in dry Phoenix for years. It just absorbs so very little water.

Strange that some manufacturers say nothing about this & some do.