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...hopefully the temp sensor will be working (despite them being Chinese parts). I'll know tonight.
Just curious as to the color of the connection cable harnesses on the replacement PCB1 and PCB2 boards you have procured... The photo you provided in POST 3 of this thread show the connectors to have all white wires with a single blue wire. The connection harnesses on the boards I initially replaced on mine, which were the originals, had the same all white wires with a single blue wire, which I understand to be indicative of the original "gen 1" mech boards, with a p/n of 0B5-398-009-A.

The new set I purchased from Audi was p/n 0B5-398-009-F and had multicolored cables for both boards, something that is similar with the later revisions of the original part.

Again, just curious if old stock is being sold by vendors such as Amazon.

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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Last night, I replaced the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit with my original Mech unit that was "rebuilt" using the Amazon Trolling Man kit. If you recall, it didn't work when I installed it the first time (error codes right off the bat, wouldn't recalibrate, I didn't write down the codes and they may have been that I didn't have the clutch forks engaged with the shifting solenoids). Also, when I pulled it to install the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit, I discovered that some of the electrical contacts weren't seated properly. So, I swapped in my original "rebuilt" Mech unit for the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit last night.

Result was disappointing. It did take part 1 and 2 of the calibration process, but failed to complete part 3. Also, it threw a P17D4 code right off the bat (I never even got it off the 4 post lift).

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The Audi forums say that the culprit for P17D4 is the N472 solenoid, which is one of the two small solenoids on the bottom part of the Mech unit. I replaced one of those two solenoids when I installed the Amazon Trolling Man rebuild kit. So, it may be a bad solenoid from that kit. My concern is that if I drop the Mech unit and replace just that N472 solenoid, it might have some other bad parts (like what is apparently a bad temp sensor in the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit) that will fail after the car warms up fully.

At this point, I am going to buy OEM parts (either Audi or Borg Warner) to do a full rebuild on my original Mech unit, or just buy a quality reman Mech unit. I need to contact Sheng Hai to return the reman Mech unit. I may still have time to return the Amazon Trolling Man rebuild kit, too. Hopefully I can return both, but not holding my breath on that.

So, I'll be doing research on what is the best way to go. Maktrans is an option, but given they use some Chinese parts, I'm leery of using them. I have now pulled and replaced the Mech unit from my car 5 times, so although I've gotten really good at it, I'm ready to be done with this delve into the world of the Macan Mechatronics failures. I have learned a great deal, but ready to be done.
 
Last night, I replaced the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit with my original Mech unit that was "rebuilt" using the Amazon Trolling Man kit. If you recall, it didn't work when I installed it the first time (error codes right off the bat, wouldn't recalibrate, I didn't write down the codes and they may have been that I didn't have the clutch forks engaged with the shifting solenoids). Also, when I pulled it to install the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit, I discovered that some of the electrical contacts weren't seated properly. So, I swapped in my original "rebuilt" Mech unit for the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit last night.

Result was disappointing. It did take part 1 and 2 of the calibration process, but failed to complete part 3. Also, it threw a P17D4 code right off the bat (I never even got it off the 4 post lift).

View attachment 287950

The Audi forums say that the culprit for P17D4 is the N472 solenoid, which is one of the two small solenoids on the bottom part of the Mech unit. I replaced one of those two solenoids when I installed the Amazon Trolling Man rebuild kit. So, it may be a bad solenoid from that kit. My concern is that if I drop the Mech unit and replace just that N472 solenoid, it might have some other bad parts (like what is apparently a bad temp sensor in the Sheng Hai reman Mech unit) that will fail after the car warms up fully.

At this point, I am going to buy OEM parts (either Audi or Borg Warner) to do a full rebuild on my original Mech unit, or just buy a quality reman Mech unit. I need to contact Sheng Hai to return the reman Mech unit. I may still have time to return the Amazon Trolling Man rebuild kit, too. Hopefully I can return both, but not holding my breath on that.

So, I'll be doing research on what is the best way to go. Maktrans is an option, but given they use some Chinese parts, I'm leery of using them. I have now pulled and replaced the Mech unit from my car 5 times, so although I've gotten really good at it, I'm ready to be done with this delve into the world of the Macan Mechatronics failures. I have learned a great deal, but ready to be done.
Maktrans uses oem solenoids that they refurb and test - I swapped 4 from maktrans and 2 from ebay and all have been fine so far.
 
I had the exact same code (mechanical error, not electrical) with the Amazon kit (with new original boards) which I obviously returned. The solenoid you referenced came faulty in amazon kit which probably caused N435 solenoid fault as well (per an Audi trans tech I used via phone consult). Seems the same amazon kit that I returned was delivered to you in some form as the seller is same. I suggest you change all solenoids and boards and be done with it once and for all.
 
Listen, Audi units are obviously pieces of ****, there was a time that "german made" stood for something. Not any more, get the Chinese stuff, as others said it is like the same company as Audi's and if not even better. DL501s are over a decade long, there is no excuse for these issues.
@noro stop spreading wrong info. The chinese electrical boards don't work on ALL cars and could be a hit or miss. Didn't work in my case. Chinese kits are NOT manufactured by same company as OE. There clearly is some electronic authentication performed by TCM depending on your software version. They may work today but what's the guarantee they will continue to work once the dealership upgrades the ECU/TCU software (think apple charging cables - half of aftermarket cables don't work / stop working after software upgrade and that's very low tech stuff). If you are looking for the bottom of the barrel repair, go with it, especially if you have unlimited time to keep swapping out parts in the trans. I wont personally use cheap stuff on MY personal car. I tried and learn the hard way.
 
There is no electronic authentication performed by the TCU on the two electrical interconnect "Circuit" boards. These boards have no "smarts" in them, just wires, a simple temperature sensor, and a simple RPM sensor. As usual, the quality of Chinese knock-off items can be hit or miss.
 
You are an authority on this so obviously respect your opinion very much. How would you explain 10 electrical fault codes (one for each solenoid) after installing the Amazon Chinese boards? They were not recognized by the TCU and threw tons of codes along with a mechanical code for defective solenoid. clearly there was more than just wiring.
 

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Discussion starter · #91 ·
I had the exact same code (mechanical error, not electrical) with the Amazon kit (with new original boards) which I obviously returned. The solenoid you referenced came faulty in amazon kit which probably caused N435 solenoid fault as well (per an Audi trans tech I used via phone consult). Seems the same amazon kit that I returned was delivered to you in some form as the seller is same. I suggest you change all solenoids and boards and be done with it once and for all.
Yes, that’s the plan. I haven’t ordered parts yet, but plan to get new OEM boards and all new solenoids. The goal of this thread was to see if an inexpensive kit would do the job. I think we answered that question. If OEM parts now fix it, I think we can verify that the inexpensive option just isn’t viable.
 
I would definitely advocate for a factory Audi mechatronic repair kit, 0B5398009F (the two boards), but have you taken a multimeter to the individual solenoids? If they’re “in spec” +/- an ohm or two, they probably don’t need replacing.

Here are the factory ohm specs for each of the solenoids, with my readings of each (in parentheses) prior to reinstalling the mechatronic.

N433 / 5 ohms (4.7)
N434 / 5 ohms (4.7)
N435 / 15 ohms (14.3)
N436 / 5 ohms (4.7) *
N437 / 5 ohms (4.7)
N438 / 5 ohms (4.7)
N439 / 15 ohms (14.2)
N440 / 5 ohms (4.7) *
N471 / 4.5 ohms (4.6) *
N472 / 4.5 ohms (4.5) *

* = Ohm readings of brand new Borg Warner solenoids

As well as replacing the 2 boards (for a clutch temp code – the clutch fluid sensor on the PCB2 board had failed), the N436, N440, N471 solenoids were all well out of spec, double the factory ohm values, and thus replaced. I also replaced the N472, the main pressure control solenoid, just because it made me feel good…

Also, made sure all solenoids were fully plugged into the board slots.

Knock on wood; no issues since.
 
Honestly I’ve found that the circuit boards don’t really fail on these cars. The circuit board failure was more prevalent in the older versions of the transmission that were manufactured before the Macan line started. I haven’t seen any circuit board replacements actually fix things in our cars.
 
There have been Macan instances where the clutch fluid temperature sensor has failed (located in the vertical board), and replacement of that board fixes that issue. But, open circuit connections to the solenoids were usually only a problem with earlier production boards, before this transmission was used in the Macan.

Concerning the Chinese boards that caused many DTC codes, those boards must be defective, with open circuit connections or incorrect connections between the TCU plug and the solenoid contacts. If the TCU can't measure continuity to a solenoid, those "Valve Electrical Fault" codes are set. There is no sophisticated "authentication" going on. If the Chinese board manufacturer builds them correctly, they will work fine.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Quick update from me: I ordered new VAG solenoids from Maktrans on Monday, 9/30/24 (although late in the day, so really 10/1 for them). I reached out to them Friday, 10/4/24 to ask if I would get a tracking number as I hadn't received anything stating they were shipped. I finally got a message this morning (10/8) that they shipped them via FedEx. FedEx tracking shows a label was printed this morning but the package not yet received by FedEx in Poland. That's a little disappointing that it takes a full week to ship out some solenoids since they were shown to be in stock. Hope to have them soon.

As for the rebuilt Mech unit I bought from Sheng Hai, I have 3 rounds of emails with their customer service about trying to return the unit for a refund. They want me to replace the clutch. I've seen several other posters on Audi forums state that they got talked into replacing the clutch, only to find out that it didn't fix the problem. Today I sent them a screenshot from their own troubleshooting guide on their website stating that a P17D8 code can normally be fixed with a Mechatronic rebuild kit, so I am not inclined to replace the clutch until I rebuild the Mech unit with new OEM parts. I told them that I hope to receive the new parts soon, and if after installing them I still get the same P17D8 code, then I would consider a clutch replacement. I did ask them that if the clutch were indeed overheating and causing the problem, then wouldn't my transmission oil temperature be higher than 72 degrees?
 
Quick update from me: I ordered new VAG solenoids from Maktrans on Monday, 9/30/24 (although late in the day, so really 10/1 for them). I reached out to them Friday, 10/4/24 to ask if I would get a tracking number as I hadn't received anything stating they were shipped. I finally got a message this morning (10/8) that they shipped them via FedEx. FedEx tracking shows a label was printed this morning but the package not yet received by FedEx in Poland. That's a little disappointing that it takes a full week to ship out some solenoids since they were shown to be in stock. Hope to have them soon.

As for the rebuilt Mech unit I bought from Sheng Hai, I have 3 rounds of emails with their customer service about trying to return the unit for a refund. They want me to replace the clutch. I've seen several other posters on Audi forums state that they got talked into replacing the clutch, only to find out that it didn't fix the problem. Today I sent them a screenshot from their own troubleshooting guide on their website stating that a P17D8 code can normally be fixed with a Mechatronic rebuild kit, so I am not inclined to replace the clutch until I rebuild the Mech unit with new OEM parts. I told them that I hope to receive the new parts soon, and if after installing them I still get the same P17D8 code, then I would consider a clutch replacement. I did ask them that if the clutch were indeed overheating and causing the problem, then wouldn't my transmission oil temperature be higher than 72 degrees?
Have you checked the clutch slip values?
 
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