Good luck on your journey and keep us posted.

 

I'm going to try to fix this by just replacing the two circuit boards first (hoping the Mechatronics unit doesn't need additional repairs). Those are available in a kit from Amazon that costs $109 and will be delivered tomorrow:

Amazon.com: 0B5 DL501 7-Speed Refurbished Transmission Solenoid Internal Wire Harness Conductor Plate 0B5398048D Compatible With A4 A5 A6 A7 Q5 : Automotive

Buy 0B5 DL501 7-Speed Refurbished Transmission Solenoid Internal Wire Harness Conductor Plate 0B5398048D Compatible With A4 A5 A6 A7 Q5: Hard Parts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

The ad lists these as "refurbished". Plus, under the description, it's sold by "TrollingMAN auto parts" and says "Premium Quality, Cheap and Cheerful, Easy to Install with related installation video". Well, if it's cheerful and sold by a trolling man, I'm sold.

Next, I'll go watch @Santirx 's excellent DIY video on changing the transmission fluid, spin-on filter and internal suction filter:

Looks like I'll also need to order:

• 6 1/2 liters of Motul Multi DCTF Dual Clutch transmission fluid ($14.02 per liter on Amazon when you buy a 12-pack, plus a single to get 2 services)($101)
• Transmission service kit ($96.67 on eBay) that includes a pan gasket, external spin-on filter, internal suction filter, 2 O-rings, a crush washer and 15 pan screws (FCP Euro has this for about the same price per Santirx 's video)
• Crossmember bolts (torque to yield): Two each PAF 005 372 ($4.20 each) and four each PAF 911 511 ($6.58 each) for total with shipping of $38.28 at www.gaudinporscheparts.com

So, total cost of parts, including everything listed above is $345, including taxes and shipping.
All of the parts should arrive this week, and I'll post again once it all arrives.

BTW, here is a link to where @AoxoMoxoA bought the transmission service kit that included LiquiMoly transmission fluid from FCP Euro for $206.25 including tax and free shipping - a pretty good deal: Porsche PDK Transmission Service Kit - Liqui Moly 95BPDKSERVICEKT1

 

You might want to talk to @tallkyle. He has done all this. As a matter of fact, there could be another issue. The mechatronics gasket is prone to failure in a very specific area. You should check that as well. Is always in the same place… you can see 2 examples in the photo below. That causes some oil pressure disruption that causes the mechatronics to behave badly, especially when it warms up.

 

You might want to talk to @tallkyle. He has done all this. As a matter of fact, there could be another issue. The mechatronics gasket is prone to failure in a very specific area. You should check that as well. Is always in the same place… you can see 2 examples in the photo below. That causes some oil pressure disruption that causes the mechatronics to behave badly, especially when it warms up.

View attachment 286641

Thanks, @Santirx. I was hoping that you would chime in. I read through @tallkyle 's thread just now. His symptoms are nearly identical to mine. So, rather than hoping that the problem is just in the 2 circuit boards that I've already ordered and am planning to replace, I am going to change this gasket (aka separator plate), also.

Here is the thread where @tallkyle works through his transmission issue - it's definitely worth a read:

https://www.macanforum.com/threads/transmissions-p177500-problems.192121/?post_id=2780253&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2780253

I went to Maktrans' website and poked around. Here's a link to the replacement separator plate:

0b5 mechatronic separate plate issue, Jerk and slam. from MAKTRANS-SSP – Buy Now for $63 USD

Buy 0b5 mechatronic separate plate issue, Jerk and slam. from MAKTRANS-SSP at $63 USD. 681 units available. Fast & worldwide shipping.

maktrans.net

I also searched Amazon and eBay to see if they offered it as I was concerned about shipping from the Ukraine and Slovenia possibly being disrupted due to world events there. Neither of them carry it. I did find a separate website carrying the same separator plate.

https://www.shenghaiautoparts.com/shop/other/0b5-dl501-transmission-valve-body-separator-plate/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4a2BhD6ARIsALgH7Dp7L8CEk06QzGxRbWPn4BwuE6U3Fq16__U4pcSPKP8b1u1h4x_XG-MaAnPxEALw_wcB

It is out of China, and reading through Maktrans' website, it appears they source their separator plates from China. So, it may be Maktrans' same supplier. The price was roughly the same (the part and shipping are slightly cheaper from the Chinese company), but the selling point for me was that the Chinese company was promising a transit time of 2 to 5 days. So, I ordered from them. Total cost with shipping is $89.79, so now my total parts cost thus far is $435.

 

Reminder that the 6 crossmember bolts are torque-to-yield and should be replaced. The two M14 drive triple square bolts get torqued to 67 ft lbs plus 90 degrees (1/4 turn), and the four 18mm hex drive bolts are also 67 ft lbs, plus 135 degrees (3/8 turn).
Also, ECS Tuning has a kit for these 6 bolts, and it's a little cheaper than Gaudin Porsche at $33.00 plus $3.00 tax with free shipping:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motorsport-parts/x-brace-stretch-bolt-subframe-hardware-kit/034-603-z006~034/

 

Your boards are fine. I would change that gasket 100% and while it's apart, remove your TCU and have a look inside just incase. If you have fluid filled in it, I'll help you through that issue as well if needed.

Good luck man! If you need help, Message or let's keep this thread going.

 

@tallkyle @VAGfan (or anyone else) - I can’t find any info on how to change the separator plate once the Mechatronic unit is out of the transmission. Is it just a matter of removing some screws, swapping the plate and reinstalling the screws? My separator plate arrives tomorrow, so trying to find anything on changing out that particular part. Lots of info out there on pulling the Mech unit and swapping the circuit boards and solenoids, but nothing on the separator plate swap. Thanks in advance.

 

Your opening post states you have a 2018 GTS - and yet your avatar states 2018 Turbo.

The thread's title purports to be about a mechatronics DIY - and yet you have not, in fact, completed such a procedure and
are performing a Q&A session with other forum members in an apparent attempt to do so.


The DIY threads posted in the forum illustrate, via photos, video and/or text those operations which forum members have
used to successfully complete various repair or R&R procedures on their Macans.

This thread has the potential to be that - and is not there yet. I am changing the thread's title to more accurately and correctly
reflect the nature of this project. If, and when, a sustained and successful repair is completed, it may be appropriate to update
the thread's title to reflect a procedure that others may follow to result in a fix for the mechatronics.

For the present, this is an "interactive", hope for the best, "real time" discussion which could result in a fix for what has yet to be
shown: a defective mechatronics board(s) (components) and/or a valve body seal.


Good luck.

 

Your opening post states you have a 2018 GTS - and yet your avatar states 2018 Turbo.

The thread's title purports to be about a mechatronics DIY - and yet you have not, in fact, completed such a procedure and
are performing a Q&A session with other forum members in an apparent attempt to do so.


The DIY threads posted in the forum illustrate, via photos, video and/or text those operations which forum members have
used to successfully complete various repair or R&R procedures on their Macans.

This thread has the potential to be that - and is not there yet. I am changing the thread's title to more accurately and correctly
reflect the nature of this project. If, and when, a sustained and successful repair is completed, it may be appropriate to update
the thread's title to reflect a procedure that others may follow to result in a fix for the mechatronics.

For the present, this is an "interactive", hope for the best, "real time" discussion which could result in a fix for what has yet to be
shown: a defective mechatronics board(s) (components) and/or a valve body seal.


Good luck.

No problem. I apologize for the premature use of the DIY tag. The goal is to build this into a DIY thread. I'll do a YouTube video once the repair is complete and link to that, much as I did with the removal & replacement of the dash that I did a couple of weeks ago. The problem that I see currently is that the collective knowledge of the forum on this topic is scattered across multiple threads, some of which are extremely long. So, I am attempting to consolidate that knowledge into this thread.
Also, I'll update my profile. I have owned 13 different Macans over the past 14 months (all 2015-18 either S, GTS or Turbo models). I'm an attorney by trade, but have a dealer's license for my law firm (because estate planning/probate/bankruptcy). Generally, I have 2 or 3 Macans at any given time. I'll buy one wholesale and spend a month or so fixing all of the issues (such as this one) then daily drive it for a month or so while I work on a new purchase. Then, I'll sell the one I'm driving once I get the new purchase sorted out so that I can get another. Although I own several different years and models of Porsches, I really enjoy working on and driving the first gen Macans - they're great cars and this forum is a wonderful resource!

 

If your PDK only malfunctions (abrupt/rough/jerking clutch engagements) when the transmission is up to normal (hot) operating temperature, then it is most likely the separator plate/gasket between the lower valve-body halves.

 

This would strongly suggest that a parts replacement regimen should start with this and then, if necessary, progress to
potential issues with the circuit boards and/or their associated components.

 

Anybody in NY can do it on my transmission?

 

I spent several hours last night removing the Mechatronic valve body, replacing the separator plate and then putting it all back together again. I purposely did not install the new circuit boards that I bought because I wanted to test the theory that the problem was the missing pieces of paper gasket material on the separator plate that everyone seems to have. The first thing I did was to check the Transmission Control Unit to see if I had fluid in there like @tallkyle had. Mine was clean and dry inside.

Next step was to separate the two halves of the base of the Mechatronic unit. 35 screws there, in case you are wondering, so best to have an electric screwdriver or ratchet. 5 of those screws are about half an inch longer than the others, by the way, so be sure to note where the longer ones go (they are clustered around the top left).

When I separated the halves to expose the separator plate and gasket material, sure enough, both sides of my separator plate were missing gasket material in the same place that everyone else has.

At that point, I was feeling pretty confident that I had found the problem and that my transmission would be functional again once I got it back together. Spoiler alert, it wasn't.

Once I got the Mechatronic back base screwed back together, installed back in the transmission, the transmission put back together and properly filled (using the warm-up and refill procedure monitoring the transmission fluid), I attempted to recalibrate the transmission. I recalibrated it last week thinking that might help before I had to tear it apart, and my Foxwell NT809BT bi-directional seemed to do the recalibration (I heard strange noises from underneath and it walked me through moving the gearshift from P to N and back). But, last night, my scan tool was only having me go through verifying that it was in Park when I had the gearshift knob in Park. So, I don't think it recalibrated.

I started the car back up after trying to recalibrate and put it into Reverse. There was a noticeable jerk when the car went into Reverse. It did engage Reverse, but only for a few seconds before throwing a transmission malfunction light telling me there is no Reverse. It was throwing a P17D700 code, Clutch 2 pressure too high. Reverse was non-existent. I managed to get it back into the garage and called it a night.

So, now, I'm wondering what to try next. I didn't use my new crossbrace bolts thinking that I might have to do take it all apart again. I could have replaced the plastic circuit boards, but I wanted to test the theory that the real problem is just the missing gasket material from the separator plate. So, I am ready to go back in - the question is what to change once I get in there? Should I try replacing the plastic circuit boards as that's a common problem? But, from reading the other threads, I'm not sure that is going to do anything. Do I need to replace my Transmission Control Unit, which includes the pressure sensors? Could it be as simple as borrowing a friend's scan tool to try to recalibrate the transmission?

 

Did you consider that clutch 2 is really defective?
(...once took my Yamaha RD250 engine/gearbox apart and found a broken clutch friction plate in the clutch friction pack...just thinking of a piece of a broken friction plate getting into the gap of released clutch 2 ???)

 

I think that’s possible, but most of the DL-501 transmission problems seem to be caused by some problem with the Mechatronics. So, I am going to focus on that first.

 

This is awesome thank you for your contribution - I am waiting for my repair kit to arrive. Can you describe your exact behavior before you did the fix including the codes you had? For clutch pressure being too high I would look at one or both of the pressure regulation solenoids, or the two clutch activation solenoids. For reference, this is the kit I ordered:

Mechatronics Repair Kit (with new solenoids) - 0B5 DL501 08-up from CHINA – Buy Now for $333 USD

Buy Mechatronics Repair Kit (with new solenoids) - 0B5 DL501 08-up from CHINA at $333 USD. 80 units available. Fast & worldwide shipping.

maktrans.net

Also, did you try the clutch bite point adaptation? Maybe the TCU is over-pressurizing clutch 2 because the clutch pressure was too low prior to the fix? Just a theory.

 

The best step-by-step guide to removing the Mechatronic from the transmission that I found is this one:

Audi S Tronic Mechatronic Unit Repair Kit [Complete DIY Guide]

Save yourself thousands by following my DIY Audi S tronic Mechatronic unit repair kit installation guide!

andybucks5.blogspot.com

Although it is for an Audi, it addresses the problems I ran into and gives some very useful tips.

 

Today I ordered an Otofix D1 LITE scan tool as I am not convinced that my Foxwell NT809BT scanner is doing the full PDK calibration. It was 4:00 am Friday morning when I finally got everything buttoned up and tried the transmission calibration. It definitely does the first part, but it isn’t going through all of the steps.

Today, I warmed up the transmission and double checked the fill level. I ended up adding about 1/3 liter more fluid. I got the transmission temps up to the mid 50s and drove it around the neighborhood. Reverse still only works for a couple of seconds, and the forward gears are jerky. But, it didn’t throw a transmission code and I never got any transmission warnings. On Friday morning, it was throwing a P17D700 code, which can be caused by low fluid level, apparently.

When the Otofix D1 shows up, I will go through the calibration and report back.
If the calibration doesn’t fix it (and I am not optimistic), the next step is going to be either having my TCU cloned or swapping out the entire Mechatronic unit (minus the TCU).

 

The lack of codes is promising. Seems to me like your PDK is just confused as to how much pressure it needs to apply to the clutch. You specifically need to do the clutch bite point adaptation. Doing that on mine fails because it says my clutch adaptation limit has been reached.

 

So, my new Otofix D1 Lite finally arrived yesterday. Last night, I went through the calibration process. For some reason, it wouldn't do step one of the calibration: calibration of the selector level position and transmission range sensor. However, my Foxwell NT809BT was able to do that before. So, after several tries with the Otofix, I went on to step 2 - calibration of the distance sensors and step 3 - adaptation of the clutch bite points. The Otofix went through both of those calibration steps just fine. Unfortunately, after driving around for a while, the same warning light came on ("No R-gear. Possible to drive on.") and I got the same P17D700 Clutch 2, pressure - above limit value. So, I parked it back on my rack and called it a day.
Having read through multiple threads now, the cause could be one of 2 things:
1. One of many possible problems with the Mechatronics unit (circuit boards, solenoids, sensors, etc.). The only thing I fixed was missing gasket paper on the separator plate. I didn't do any other troubleshooting on the Mechatronics unit; or
2. My transmission control unit is bad. The reason I say this is because of @tallkyle 's thread. That seemed to be his problem. However, I didn't have any fluid inside the TCU like he had. Ultimately, he had his TCU cloned and the new TCU seemed to fix the problem. Please correct me if I misinterpreted that.

So, since there are multiple potential problems with the Mechatronics unit, my next step is going to be installing a rebuilt Mechatronics unit. @tallkyle was nice enough to offer to sell me the extra one he has, so if it is still available, I am going to take him up on that. If I replace the entire Mechatronics unit with a known good one, yet the problem persists, then the next step would be to have my TCU cloned and replace that. Stay tuned . . .

 

@AoxoMoxoA posted in a thread over on Rennlist a link to Sheng Hai's website where they list the malfunction codes and the most likely way to fix them. Sheng Hai is the company that I bought my separator plate from, but I didn't notice this page on their website when I visited it to buy the separator plate. So, thanks to @AoxoMoxoA as this is a handy reference to look up whatever fault code you may have to get an idea on how to fix it. Here is the link:

https://www.shenghaiautoparts.com/0b5-dl501-s-tronic-transmission-quick-reference/

With the P17D7 code I have, it says to use the Mechatronic repair kit that they sell. So, installing a refurb Mechatronic unit seems to be the right way to go since it incorporates that repair kit.

 

Another breaches gasket victim here. Symptoms were the known TCU failure codes and bucking when coming to a stop at 2 to 1 transition. Also had 2 to 3 shift rougher than normal. My symtoms might have also been weak solenoids and other parts that a rebuild kit includes but at this point I think every one with 80K miles and above should assume their gasket is breached. Which might be accelerating other issues. I bet you can replace the gasket while the mech. unit is in the car but you have to be very creating about it, the bolts that hold the bottom half of the valve body are also holding the unit in place but it can be done if you have a helper.

 

Interesting idea about leaving the unit in the tranny while changing out the gasket. I also think it could be done, but you will definitely need a 3rd hand of some sort (a helper or a support). I am lucky enough to have a 4-post lift that makes most things easier. But an advantage of just having it up on jackstands would be using a short broomstick or something as a support while swapping out the gasket. The one tricky thing about leaving it in the car would be trying to remember which holes the 5 slightly longer bolts go into. When I pull my Mechatronics unit, I will see if I can post a picture showing which holes those longer bolts go into in case someone wants to try an "in car" gasket swap.

 

Shout out to @AoxoMoxoA again for another link to a DIY on the DL501 Mechatronic valve body rebuild. He did a short thread on solving his problem, which you can find here:

https://www.macanforum.com/threads/...here-in-the-us.192596/?post_id=2799938&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2799938

In that thread, he posted a link to a very thorough DL501 Mechatronic rebuild DIY:

Audi S Tronic Mechatronic Unit Repair Kit [Complete DIY Guide]

Save yourself thousands by following my DIY Audi S tronic Mechatronic unit repair kit installation guide!

andybucks5.blogspot.com

I haven't heard back yet from @tallkyle on getting his Maktrans refurb unit from him (but it's only been a few days), so I ordered a rebuild kit off Amazon that contains not only the plastic circuit boards, but also the replacement solenoids. If I hear back from @tallkyle shortly, then I'll just use his extra Mechatronic and return the repair kit. If not, then I'll just rebuild mine using the Audi DIY guide linked above.

The one concern that I have, however, is that my fault code, P17D7 "Clutch 2, pressure - above limit value" makes me wonder if the problem is with the hydraulic pressure sensor for Clutch 2. I think that @tallkyle had a problem with pressure sensor #1 in his TCU. So, if the rebuild of the Mechatronics doesn't work, looks like the next thing to try is purchasing a used TCU and having the company @tallkyle used (AutoITSolutions.net) clone my old one onto the new one. I spoke with Steve there at AutoITSolutions.net, and he was very helpful.

 

Shout out to @AoxoMoxoA again for another link to a DIY on the DL501 Mechatronic valve body rebuild. He did a short thread on solving his problem, which you can find here:

https://www.macanforum.com/threads/...here-in-the-us.192596/?post_id=2799938&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2799938

In that thread, he posted a link to a very thorough DL501 Mechatronic rebuild DIY:

Audi S Tronic Mechatronic Unit Repair Kit [Complete DIY Guide]

Save yourself thousands by following my DIY Audi S tronic Mechatronic unit repair kit installation guide!

andybucks5.blogspot.com

I haven't heard back yet from @tallkyle on getting his Maktrans refurb unit from him (but it's only been a few days), so I ordered a rebuild kit off Amazon that contains not only the plastic circuit boards, but also the replacement solenoids. If I hear back from @tallkyle shortly, then I'll just use his extra Mechatronic and return the repair kit. If not, then I'll just rebuild mine using the Audi DIY guide linked above.

The one concern that I have, however, is that my fault code, P17D7 "Clutch 2, pressure - above limit value" makes me wonder if the problem is with the hydraulic pressure sensor for Clutch 2. I think that @tallkyle had a problem with pressure sensor #1 in his TCU. So, if the rebuild of the Mechatronics doesn't work, looks like the next thing to try is purchasing a used TCU and having the company @tallkyle used (AutoITSolutions.net) clone my old one onto the new one. I spoke with Steve there at AutoITSolutions.net, and he was very helpful.

I got @tallkyle 's refurb unit about a week and a half ago. Unless he has many for sale I think you are out of luck . It's now installed in my car. Thanks @tallkyle, day 2 so far no codes and smooth shifting.

Regarding the "long bolts" problem. All you have to do is mark the longer bolt positions with a sharpie as you are taking them off. Also when you insert the bolt the hole that take the longer bolts have the thread start deeper, it is pretty easy to get the right ones into the right places IMO

 

You can also scrape the aluminum where the bolts are but again even without them, it's a 10 minute puzzle to solve. Also for another tip as it is fresh in my memory, you do not need to remove the entire external filter housing, if you undo the bolts and move the filter out of the transmission case about an inch and wedge something in there to hold position, it will clear the mech unit. You can then replace the small two pipes as the manual calls for while the housing is away from the car through the large hole that it sits in. You can also replace the large o ring while in this position. This way to can skip unbolting the two metal pipe leads coming to the filter housing and not need to replace the o rings on the top side.

 

I did the same thing on the filter housing, just unbolted it and wedged a big screwdriver between the filter housing and the transmission case so that the two tubes going into the transmission housing were held far enough back that they didn't interfere with the removal of the Mechatronics unit. The DIY that I linked to above also did the same thing (except he used a block of wood instead of a screwdriver).

 

Well, I spent about 4 hours yesterday pulling the Mechatronics units out of the '18 Macan GTS to install the rebuild kit with solenoids from Amazon ($228.54). I'm not convinced this would cure the problem, but it was the cheapest and easiest way to eliminate the Mechatronics unit, leaving the TCU as the culprit. I assumed that if the problem is with the transmission control unit (TCU), then I'd end up with the same malfunction codes. Problem is, somehow, I made the problem worse. Now, I can't get the transmission to take a recalibration (necessary after pulling the Mechatronic) and it is giving me 2 malfunction codes that are different from the one I had before. Arrgghh. It may be that I didn't hook something back up correctly. There are two electrical plugs on the new circuit boards that acted kind of wonky when I plugged them back in, so that's going to be high on my list. I'll check if I missed getting one of the 4 shift solenoid hooks into the shift forks, too.

So, I'll pull it, look around and try it again. If I get the same malfunctions as I have now, then I guess I'll reinstall my old parts. If my old parts take me back to step one, then chalk it up to a bad rebuild kit. Return the rebuild kit and order a genuine rebuild kit ($525 for a Borg Warner kit, or about $100 more for an Audi kit). Then install that. Alternatively, I could order a rebuilt, tested good Mechatronics unit from either Maktrans ($986 delivered) or Sheng Hai ($535 delivered). Then if that doesn't fix it, try a new TCU.

 

did you check your gasket between valve halfs?

 

Yes, I replaced the separator plate about a week ago when I removed the Mechatronics unit the first time. I thought that I would test the missing gasket paper theory by checking to see if it was missing that same section as everyone else (it was), and then putting it back together without making any other repairs than replacing the separator plate. Unfortunately, that didn't fix anything. So, that leads me to believe that the main problem is either in the Mechatronics unit or in the TCU.

Now, I did have harsh 2-1 downshifts before I replaced the separator plate, but I also had other problems. I have seen the theory that the missing gasket paper is what is responsible for the harsh 2-1 downshifts. To be honest, when I was test driving the car after replacing the separator plate, I was more concerned about the myriad other shifting issues than I was seeing if there was still a harsh 2-1 downshift. So, the missing gasket paper may very well be the culprit on that shifting issue, but it wasn't for the bulk of my shifting problems.

As I sit here contemplating probably 3 more rounds of pulling the Mechatronics unit as laid out in my plan above, I'm leaning more toward ordering the "known good" refurb Mechatronics unit from Sheng Hai right now. I'd likely have to eat the $228 cost of the rebuild kit I just installed, but it's probably worth it just to jump ahead to the step where I can eliminate the Mech unit as the problem via one remove & replace cycle.

 

What are the codes you are getting? Replace the plastic pipes in the case as well, the double ones for the K1 and K2 clutch packs and the trippe stubby ones that are the oil pump pick up. As well as the two leading to the external oil filter housing.

 

Gonna blast this thing with the parts cannon this weekend. I have all 6 solenoids for the bottom half of the mech, separator gasket, circuit boards, 7 plastic hydraulic pipes, fluid, filters, and nearly every bolt and seal that gets removed in the process.

 

Good luck. Please let us know how it turns out.
Word of caution - be sure to remove this little bugger here:

It is a coupling that holds together the TCU plug from inside the transmission case and the transmission electrical plug from the vehicle. After you remove the electrical plug from the vehicle, you have to remove a T30 torx set screw that secures this coupling to the transmission housing. That screw is at about the 11:30 position. Once that screw is removed, you must rotate the coupling about 90 degrees counter-clockwise. It's really difficult to get a good grip on this coupling to rotate it. But, if you look closely, there are notches around the perimeter. I used a large flathead screwdriver and pushed gently against one of those notches to get it to break loose. I suppose you could also try to put something like a Phillips head screwdriver tip in the hole of the set screw and try to rotate it that way. Once you've got it rotated, you will still need to wiggle it around pretty good to get it out.

I have read several times where people have torn the plug from the TCU when removing the Mechatronic because they didn't remove this coupling.

Also, once you get the 6 bolts removed on the bottom of the Mechatronic that hold the unit in the transmission case, don't expect it to just fall out. You'll need to gently pry it out. But, beware, once it breaks free from the mounts, there's nothing holding it in. I leave 2 bolts (one on each side of the bottom on the Mech unit) each with about 2 or 3 threads catching so that when it breaks free, it only drops about half an inch.

 

@FRUNKenstein I went through the mechatronic rebuild process myself. I used the Amazon cheap and cheerful kit and it was all fake / bad parts and car gave 10 electrical faults. I ordered genuine Audi kit along with 3 extra solenoids - total 6 solenoids for the bottom part of mechatronic. Ordered from a transmission shop in England. Total cost of parts 800 usd. Shipping came in 2 days to nyc. Everything went well including all calibrations. Car runs better than when I purchased it. Go with genuine new parts. Hope this helps

 

Ok that makes me a touch worried - Maktrans sells chinese made circuit boards but their solenoids are out of used mechatronics that are tested on their special stand that puts hydraulic pressure through them and activates them. Hoping I don’t have to do this all over again lol.

What was the behavior you were getting before the rebuild?

 

Check out this link if this fits your budget - probably the easiest but more expensive way to fix.

9A7-325-025-AX - Valve Body Delaware Porsche Parts

Order Your Porsche OEM Valve Body (9a7325025ax) For Your

www.delawareporscheparts.com

 

FYI, there is a misunderstanding about the "circuit boards". They are not circuit boards, they are just plastic trapped wires that lead the connector pins over to the individual solenoids, with one exception, the speed sensor that is located on the top of the vertical board (the circle on the top). That sensor is a basic pulse generator (micro coil that detects a magnetic piece going by it). There is nothing delicate about them and they are often not the culprit.

Maktrans solenoids are tested but also rebuilt, specifically the parts that fails is the brass bushing at the end of the solenoid that wears out no longer keep oil pressurized.

 

FYI, there is a misunderstanding about the "circuit boards". They are not circuit boards, they are just plastic trapped wires that lead the connector pins over to the individual solenoids, with one exception, the speed sensor that is located on the top of the vertical board (the circle on the top). That sensor is a basic pulse generator (micro coil that detects a magnetic piece going by it). There is nothing delicate about them and they are often not the culprit.

Maktrans solenoids are tested but also rebuilt, specifically the parts that fails is the copper bushing at the end of the solenoid that wears out no longer keep oil pressurized.

This was my understanding about the circuit boards as well - thanks for clarifying. I’m about to stuff a bunch of maktrans solenoids into the mech so that makes me feel better lol. People seem to have fairly good results with their stuff.