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How many qts of old fluid did you drain out?
 
I just did the PDK fluid change this past weekend thanks to this thread with the car up on 4 rhino ramps.

Question: Does the final fill need to be done with the car running?

Referring to the step where the transmission oil is brought up to the correct temperature (30-50C). I cycled through the gears, turned the car off, and then filled it for the final time. Reading through the thread and videos again, I'm not sure if that was correct? Was the car supposed to be running or not? In my case since it was not, would it have made that much of a difference?
 
Car is supposed to be running when you do the final fill/level check, with the fluid between 30C and 50C, otherwise it will be underfilled. (more fluid will drain out with the engine not running).

Car must be level !
1) Engine off: Drain and change filters.
2) Engine off: Refill till it comes out of fill hole.
3) Engine on, at idle, foot firmly on brake: cycle through P, R, N, D.
4) Engine on, at idle, in P, top off fluid till it comes out of hole, monitor the fluid temp.
5) Engine on, at idle, as the temperature rises, a little more fluid will come out of fill hole.
6) When fluid temp is between 30C and 50C, install the fill plug.
7) Engine off, done.
 
Thanks. Here is what I did. I managed to get 4.8ish quarts in there so I think I'm ok. I'll keep in mind the engine on method next time around:

1) Engine off: Drain oil and change filters.
2) Engine off: Refill till it comes out of fill hole.
2.5a) Engine on, at idle, in P for 30 sec
2.5b) Engine off: Refill till it comes out of fill hole.

3a) Engine on, at idle, foot firmly on brake: cycle through P, R, N, D.
3b) Engine off: Refill till it comes out of fill hole.
4) Engine on, at idle, in P, top off fluid till it comes out of hole, monitor the fluid temp.
5) Engine on, at idle, as the temperature rises, a little more fluid will come out of fill hole.
6) When fluid temp is between 30C and 50C, install the fill plug.
6b) Engine off: Refill till it comes out of fill hole. Install the fill plug
7) Engine off, done.

Anyone using Liqui moly 8100? I’m looking to do a pdk service on my 2018 Macan s
I used LiquiMoly 8100 from FCP Euro on my 2018 Macan base. Shifts are smooth.
 
Ok, the suncoast parts kit has the oil, o ring, and external filter.
The FCP Euro site has all of that PLUS a black internal filter, pan gasket, and all new pan bolts.
Nowhere does it talk about changing the internal filter.
Any ideas? I am leaning towards the FCP total kit since it is what my dealer said...they told me they remove pan, andreplace gasket. No mention again of the internal filter.

 
@Santirx posted a DIY showing internal suction filter replacement. Yes, drop the pdk pan and replace the internal filter.

 
Always change the internal mesh filter. Also you will be surprised how much more fluid comes out once you remove the pan. The more fluid one removes during the change the better. Clean off the magnets etc also It is good bonding time. While you are at it, change the transfer case and the gearbox side of the transmission. It is good insurance.
 
It's soon time for my PDK Fluid Flush and fill. There are many fluid options: OEM, Pentosin, Motul, Liquid Moly, magic unicorn tears, etc.

In Canada my local dealer wants $60/qt for OE fluid. I've found that the Macan actually takes an OEM VW/Audi fluid G 052 529 A2.

This OE fluid is likely relabelled Pentosin FFL-4 (which is very hard to find in Canada).

However, Liqui Moly 8100 claims to be equivalent for much cheaper.

Does anyone have any experience? I'm no longer under warranty and leaning towards just buying the OEM fluid, but also don't like burning $$ if they're all similar. I don't mind using M1 0W40 or Pennzoil Euro engine oil so long as it meets the OE A40 specification...

Last question - every site recommends 7 litres for flush and fill, but most DIYers have said they've used 4.5 to 5 litres when they didn't drop the pan.
 
Note: To change the internal filter, you must first remove the cross-brace to be able to remove the pan. The Porsche (and Audi Q5) service manual warns that the cross-brace should only be removed when the vehicle weight is off the front wheels, so having the car on ramps is a no-go.
 
I have liqui moly 8100 in my 2018 Macan s, it’s works. When in sport mode I find it shifts harder though which I don’t like. And it doesn’t specifically say g 052529-a2, it only says g052529 another thing I’m wondering about. But Next clutch fluid change I will be looking into Ravenol, or just sucking it up and going with pentosin.
 
Also, I learned that after a fluid change you should do a PDK recalibration. The clutch bite point recalibration is said to be “highly recommended”. But you can also do full recalibration.

I didn’t perform this recalibration immediately after my fluid change. I did it much later, but still did it. I performed the full recalibration and it made a difference in shifting. Smoother shifting. Is also relearning my driving.

I will be publishing a video on this in my channel soon.

In the meantime, subscribe to the channel so you can get notified of new videos. https://youtube.com/@porscheDIY
 
2017 Macan GTS.

I'm in Central Florida (just moved here form NJ) and got a price of $665 from the local indy shop, which seems like a reasonable price. BUT I'm going to do it myself anyway.

I have 2 questions:
1) If you don't have a lift, but put all 4 wheels on ramps, is it difficult to reach the PDK fill hole? It's obviously easy to get to everything else.
2) Anyone use Amsoil DCT fluid in the PDK?

The last time I had it done in PA at an indy shop at 40K miles, they used Motul, and I can't say I've been impressed with it. I've ALWAYS had good results with Amsoil whenever and wherever I've used it, even in motorcycles.

I've got some hard shifting between gears 1 and 2, on both the up and down shift. I'm at 88K now, time for the next change.

Advice appreciated in advance.
 
2017 Macan GTS.

I'm in Central Florida (just moved here form NJ) and got a price of $665 from the local indy shop, which seems like a reasonable price. BUT I'm going to do it myself anyway.

I have 2 questions:
1) If you don't have a lift, but put all 4 wheels on ramps, is it difficult to reach the PDK fill hole? It's obviously easy to get to everything else.
2) Anyone use Amsoil DCT fluid in the PDK?

The last time I had it done in PA at an indy shop at 40K miles, they used Motul, and I can't say I've been impressed with it. I've ALWAYS had good results with Amsoil whenever and wherever I've used it, even in motorcycles.

I've got some hard shifting between gears 1 and 2, on both the up and down shift. I'm at 88K now, time for the next change.

Advice appreciated in advance.
See answer to your question 1 in my post:
 
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