PDK Dual-Clutch Transmission Fluid and Filters replacement - Porsche Macan S 2015

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Also, I learned that after a fluid change you should do a PDK recalibration. The clutch bite point recalibration is said to be “highly recommended”. But you can also do full recalibration.

I didn’t perform this recalibration immediately after my fluid change. I did it much later, but still did it. I performed the full recalibration and it made a difference in shifting. Smoother shifting. Is also relearning my driving.

I will be publishing a video on this in my channel soon.

In the meantime, subscribe to the channel so you can get notified of new videos. https://youtube.com/@porscheDIY

 

Also, I learned that after a fluid change you should do a PDK recalibration. The clutch bite point recalibration is said to be “highly recommended”. But you can also do full recalibration.

I didn’t perform this recalibration immediately after my fluid change. I did it much later, but still did it. I performed the full recalibration and it made a difference in shifting. Smoother shifting. Is also relearning my driving.

I will be publishing a video on this in my channel soon.

In the meantime, subscribe to the channel so you can get notified of new videos. santirx auto diy

I'm about to do the full PDK service on my 2017 GTS per your excellent video. I'm unfamiliar with the PDK recalibration and clutch bite point recalibration. I have an iCarsoft POR v3.0, do you have any info you can share on these procedures? THANKS!

 

2017 Macan GTS.

I'm in Central Florida (just moved here form NJ) and got a price of $665 from the local indy shop, which seems like a reasonable price. BUT I'm going to do it myself anyway.

I have 2 questions:
1) If you don't have a lift, but put all 4 wheels on ramps, is it difficult to reach the PDK fill hole? It's obviously easy to get to everything else.
2) Anyone use Amsoil DCT fluid in the PDK?

The last time I had it done in PA at an indy shop at 40K miles, they used Motul, and I can't say I've been impressed with it. I've ALWAYS had good results with Amsoil whenever and wherever I've used it, even in motorcycles.

I've got some hard shifting between gears 1 and 2, on both the up and down shift. I'm at 88K now, time for the next change.

Advice appreciated in advance.

 

See answer to your question 1 in my post:

DIY - 40K mile PDK service

The owners manual calls for a change of the transmission oil every 40K. I had the dealer do it at 40K and I just completed the 80K. It is not that hard. You just need a few things. You do not have to drop the pan. The filter is located next to the pan. Material needed - confirmed by check...

www.macanforum.com

 

Trying to check my fluid level. Is there a dipstick or do I need a scanner? Couldn’t find any info anywhere.

 

Are you referring to the PDK?

If so, check the DIY thread on the service procedure for the PDK (above).

IIRC, the fluid needs to be at some temperature and/or the PDK is filled with the appropriate fluid until it starts to run out of the
fill hole.

 

Just bought a pre-owned 2017 Macan base over 80K miles and the PDK fluid & filter has likely never been changed. Should I change it now at 84K miles? Anyone has changed their PDK fluid for the 1st after 80K? Welcome any pointer!

And there is no flush for Porsche PDK fluid, right? It's just change the fluid? Little confused by the dealer's "flush" in the estimate.

 

If you feel it’s never been changed, then yes, absolutely, you should do it as soon as humanly possible. You really do not want to neglect the mechatronic unit inside your transmission by leaving dirty spent fluid in there which can foul the tiny passages inside the valve body leading to a myriad of shifting issues. Not sure what this proposed “flush” thing is, but the PDK fluid should be changed every 40,000 miles at least. Some do it at smaller intervals than that.

Would you do it yourself or take to a shop? It’s not a difficult DIY job. @Santirx has a great video on the task linked HERE. No matter who does the work, I’d recommend doing the full fluid change with both filters (There’s an inner suction filter as well as the external cooling line filter.) Many dealers do not do the internal filter as part of their service, so maybe you should try and find a good independent mechanic who is familiar with the full fluid change. It’ll be a better option than being gouged by the dealer who will likely only do half of the job.

 

Thank you for the link.

 

I would do a full service (including replacing internal finger) immediately like @AoxoMoxoA recommends. Send a sample of the used oil to Blackstone labs for oil analysis. Depending on the results, if bad, I would do another change at 5K miles. If OK, then changing the oil every 20K miles will be OK.

You could do the oil change and external filter at 20K miles and the full service at 40K mile interval.

 

Only thing I worry about is the oil is already brunt/dirty black. Then what to do?
I will DIY. Don't trust any shop.

 

Agreed on what Santirx said. I've been doing my own flushes since purchase and I noticed the difference in transmission behavior the one time I went a little longer than normal. I even put Stahlbus fittings on the drains to make changes a breeze.

 

It was either changed at 40 or never, in both cases 80k is the time. Don't wanna a start a whole this oil that oil, but rockauto sells Pentosin FFL-4 for cheap. This is the factory fill and it appears to hold up very well to test of time.

 

Thank you all for the response!

 

This is about going through the filling process with new oil. Then drain and refill again. This is not about adding some kind of transmission flush fluid/cleaner to recirculate it. There is nothing of sort, and recirculating new oil is much better in this case.

Also, when a manufacturer refers to “lifetime” it means one of two things: (1) what the manufacturer expects to be the average usable life of the vehicle or (2) the life of your vehicle’s warranty. It doesn’t mean that the oil is going to last forever. I always take these lifetime claims with a lot of skepticism. They are designed by manufacturers to get you into a new car sooner. There is no substitute to oil replacement in periodic intervals to extend the life of your vehicle.

 

For a conventional automatic transmission, a fluid "flush" makes sense, because the torque converter holds about 3 or 4 quarts of fluid, and just dropping the pan and refilling the transmission does not drain and refill the torque converter. A flush, with the engine running (so the ATF fluid pump is operating in the transmission), with a constant supply of fresh fluid into one of the ATF cooler lines, will flush out the old fluid inside the torque converter.

The Macan PDK has no torque converter, or anywhere else where a large volume of old fluid is retained, so dropping the pan, and changing the internal and external filters, will replace 99% of the old fluid.

Mechanics might use the word "flush" for any type of transmission fluid change.....whether it applies or not.

 

Hi. Is the final fill with the car running (on a stand of course)?

what fluid is everyone using? I saw one video using Motul.

 

I will be using Liqui Moly 8100 - I have had great experiences with their products and support team.

 

[QUOTE="G3ARH3AD, post: 2805674, member: PDK recalibration and clutch bite point recalibration. I have an iCarsoft POR v3.0, do you have any info you can share on these procedures? THANKS!
[/QUOTE]

Somehow I think our icarsoft don’t have this functionality, but I sure hope I’m wrong.

 

What should one expect when the dealer does this fluid change? Do you think they will lower, inspect and clean the pan if asked? Can the average dealer be trusted to do what that they’ll do?
I’ll say it again, I sure wish I lived closer to Santirx!!

 

No transmission dipstick, and no way to use a scanner to determine the fluid level.

However, you do need a scanner, to read the transmission fluid temperature, as the fluid expands as it gets warmer.
1) The only way to check the level is to get the car lifted (4 ramps is fine), must be level.
2) Start engine from cold, foot on brake, shift from P to R to N to D, and then back to P, pausing for 10 seconds in each gear position.
3) When the fluid warms up to 40C (30C to 50C range), remove the fill plug on the driver-side, if fluid dribbles out, the level is fine, if it doesn't, then add fluid till it does dribble out, then reinstall the fill plug before the fluid temperature exceeds 50C.
The engine is running, at idle, the entire time, for steps 1 thru 3.