[FlyPenFly]

so, that’s the one where gear distance are compared with all the clanking?

Sorry should have been more specific, I meant the clutch calibration, not the PDK Gear calibration.

 

[Santirx]

Excellent. That’s the clutch bite. After the last dctf fluid change I started to experience some hard change between 3rd and 2nd. Did the clutch bite and smooth again.

 

[AoxoMoxoA]

Does the DCTF fluid need to be at a particular temperature when doing these various transmission relative calibrations?

 

[FlyPenFly]

Yes, it needs to be in a specific temp range before it even lets you proceed. About 5-10min of driving puts me in the right range.

 

[AoxoMoxoA]

Thanks for the reply. Is there an exact range (in degrees) it needs to be within?

 

[FlyPenFly]

Thanks for the reply. Is there an exact range (in degrees) it needs to be within?

Yes, the system tells you when you try to do it.

 

[Teddis]

The temp range is in the video by @Santirx

 

[AoxoMoxoA]

The temp range is in the video by @Santirx

Yup, just watched the video again. It appears I missed that tidbit. Looks like 50°C on the software screen when he’s going through the steps.

 

[Mleibrock]

Is 40K miles a reasonable interval as Porsche suggests or is a shorter one needed. When I did the rear dif at 40K, the fluid was black as night and Porsche doesn't even call for an interval on that! I will be doing that one every 25K but am now wondering about the 40K for the PDK.

 

[FlyPenFly]

Is 40K miles a reasonable interval as Porsche suggests or is a shorter one needed. When I did the rear dif at 40K, the fluid was black as night and Porsche doesn't even call for an interval on that! I will be doing that one every 25K but am now wondering about the 40K for the PDK.

porsche says 160k for rear diff and transfer case. To me that’s too long.

personally I’m planning to do 40k for both PDK and Transfer case. And 60k for rear diff. I might do the TC again soon since my car has 128k miles and was only recently done so there’s still some old fluid in there.

 

[Santirx]

These are my oil/fluid change frequencies:

PDK DCTF (including internal filter) and TC every 20K miles
PDK Gearbox and Rear Diff every 50K miles.
Engine oil every 5K miles

 

[AoxoMoxoA]

Using @Santirx excellent video as a guide, I just performed the following three transmission calibration steps with my new OTOFIX D1-Lite, which is an impressive little bit of kit, and well worth the investment if you DIY your Macan (or other vehicles).

(1) Calibration of the selector level position and transmission range sensor
(2) Calibration of the distance sensors
(3) Adaptation of the clutch bite points

The one bit of info I'd like to add to performing Step 1, which caught me out the first two times I attempted it, is when you execute the P ► R ► N ► D gear selector sequence, it must be executed fairly quickly, otherwise it will abort the process and give you an ERROR message, so keep a keen eye on the prompts, move decisively and the calibration will take place as designed.

Also, shifts were noticibly improved on my post calibration test drive.

 

[dkfx]

I recently changed TC fluid and one needs to perform the VTG oil change procedure in PIWIS. I couldn’t. Not with 38.250, 41.400 not 41.800 versions of PIWIS. It will immediately lose communication with module.

I was able to perform the procedure with Launch X431. The procedure consist of resetting the wear integrator, as well as re-learning the angle (a calibration).

Hey Santrix- long time listener, first time caller. (new forum member here, but not new to the macan, porsche, or wrenching aka headache world). I'm having the same issue after installing a 'rebuilt' transfer case and couldn't calibrate the TC with my piwis 3. I swapped my original control module and installed new fluid (man that's pricy!) and read some people had to calibrate while others didn't. I was able to successfully 'program' and 'code' the TC (with also did the PDK, and DME ; warning to anyone with a tune, flash back to factory FIRST) but when I went into drive links it physically wouldn't let me force calibrate it. I followed a few different technical instructions I found online, all with different dates and different steps, and all 3 would program and code successfully, though when I drive off it would trip the yellow RWD ONLY light. The codes would then read out 000110 'torque transmission faulty' and '000125 forced activation of psm' in the AWD control unit. Both were not active. The car drives fine in RWD as expected (so install went fine) but guessing since it's not calibrated it keeps throwing the light since it's mechanically seeing the clutch's somewhere else than it's supposed to be. After a few different attempts, and candidly couldn't tell you how I got there, I was able to hit 'force calibration' and I could hear a noise happening under the car, but then would pop up with a timeout with control unit error. If I went into maintenance repairs and tried to just use the 'new control module only' route, it would timeout or give me the '50700: execution of the function has failed' error.


After even more research, I went in and tried to code the car to the LU2 / hardened clutch coating option thinking maybe the rebuilt one from ebay had the newer hardened discs in it. The new TC was stamped 2017, but believe the newer ones happened in the 50th week, and my TC only had 4 or 5 stamps on it leading me to believe it was made in April or May (so no hardened discs). When I tried to program it, it really didn't like it, and failed out. I cleared out the errors. Tried it a few more times (granted it takes 15 mins each time) and it wouldn't go through. No biggie, I went back in and turned OFF the LU2 and attempted to re-program, re-code, and re-calibrate. This time, it would show an ACTIVE code of "000113 All-Wheel-drive clutch actuator - incorrect basic setting" which I'm guessing was me trying to code the module to the LU2 and it probably not allowing that to happen. I've tried clearing it, re-programming it, re-coding, and re-calibrating it but basically back to square one.

TL;DR ; I've been unsuccessful in getting the rebuilt TC to code / program / calibrate (whatever you wanna call it) with my factory OEM module with my PIWIS 3. I've ordered a LAUNCH X431 CRP919EBT (which one do you have?) from your post to see if that will do the trick in calibrating the TC. I'm unclear is if's a coding thing, or if the rebuilt TC is just bad/not compatible with my car. I have PIWIS 4 access at the dealer, though scheduling it through friends at the dealer is tricky. The Chinese TC ebay seller has been very quick to respond, but the language barrier is real, and getting them to do much other than telling me to 'continue coding' has been difficult. Return shipping I'm sure won't be cheap, and returns take a 20% hit so I'm trying to see if I can get it to work before I swap the old TC back in. My old TC was making bad noises and STARTING to fail so figure I'd take care of it before it left me on the side of the road or got worse. I may make a full post for this once I get it all sorted out for the next guy, but just wanted to share my experience

 

[Santirx]

Hey Santrix- long time listener, first time caller. (new forum member here, but not new to the macan, porsche, or wrenching aka headache world). I'm having the same issue after installing a 'rebuilt' transfer case and couldn't calibrate the TC with my piwis 3. I swapped my original control module and installed new fluid (man that's pricy!) and read some people had to calibrate while others didn't. I was able to successfully 'program' and 'code' the TC (with also did the PDK, and DME ; warning to anyone with a tune, flash back to factory FIRST) but when I went into drive links it physically wouldn't let me force calibrate it. I followed a few different technical instructions I found online, all with different dates and different steps, and all 3 would program and code successfully, though when I drive off it would trip the yellow RWD ONLY light. The codes would then read out 000110 'torque transmission faulty' and '000125 forced activation of psm' in the AWD control unit. Both were not active. The car drives fine in RWD as expected (so install went fine) but guessing since it's not calibrated it keeps throwing the light since it's mechanically seeing the clutch's somewhere else than it's supposed to be. After a few different attempts, and candidly couldn't tell you how I got there, I was able to hit 'force calibration' and I could hear a noise happening under the car, but then would pop up with a timeout with control unit error. If I went into maintenance repairs and tried to just use the 'new control module only' route, it would timeout or give me the '50700: execution of the function has failed' error.


After even more research, I went in and tried to code the car to the LU2 / hardened clutch coating option thinking maybe the rebuilt one from ebay had the newer hardened discs in it. The new TC was stamped 2017, but believe the newer ones happened in the 50th week, and my TC only had 4 or 5 stamps on it leading me to believe it was made in April or May (so no hardened discs). When I tried to program it, it really didn't like it, and failed out. I cleared out the errors. Tried it a few more times (granted it takes 15 mins each time) and it wouldn't go through. No biggie, I went back in and turned OFF the LU2 and attempted to re-program, re-code, and re-calibrate. This time, it would show an ACTIVE code of "000113 All-Wheel-drive clutch actuator - incorrect basic setting" which I'm guessing was me trying to code the module to the LU2 and it probably not allowing that to happen. I've tried clearing it, re-programming it, re-coding, and re-calibrating it but basically back to square one.

TL;DR ; I've been unsuccessful in getting the rebuilt TC to code / program / calibrate (whatever you wanna call it) with my factory OEM module with my PIWIS 3. I've ordered a LAUNCH X431 CRP919EBT (which one do you have?) from your post to see if that will do the trick in calibrating the TC. I'm unclear is if's a coding thing, or if the rebuilt TC is just bad/not compatible with my car. I have PIWIS 4 access at the dealer, though scheduling it through friends at the dealer is tricky. The Chinese TC ebay seller has been very quick to respond, but the language barrier is real, and getting them to do much other than telling me to 'continue coding' has been difficult. Return shipping I'm sure won't be cheap, and returns take a 20% hit so I'm trying to see if I can get it to work before I swap the old TC back in. My old TC was making bad noises and STARTING to fail so figure I'd take care of it before it left me on the side of the road or got worse. I may make a full post for this once I get it all sorted out for the next guy, but just wanted to share my experience View attachment 281212 View attachment 281213 View attachment 281215 View attachment 281214 View attachment 281212 View attachment 281213 View attachment 281215 View attachment 281214 View attachment 281217 View attachment 281216 View attachment 281218


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I haven’t been able to calibrate TC with PIWIS either. I use Launch X431. However, you can contact Mars (mhx_log in Telegram). He is an expert with PIWIS and may be able to work this out for you.

 

[dkfx]

I haven’t been able to calibrate TC with PIWIS either. I use Launch X431. However, you can contact Mars (mhx_log in Telegram). He is an expert with PIWIS and may be able to work this out for you.

Already been in contact with Mars, he's extremely intelligent...just don't want to wear out my welcome with him. Were you getting errors with the piwis or just 'unable to connect' error?

 

[Teddis]

its a VCI issue I believe. I have calibrated my TX case more than once. I use the T6

 

[Santirx]

Already been in contact with Mars, he's extremely intelligent...just don't want to wear out my welcome with him. Were you getting errors with the piwis or just 'unable to connect' error?

It connects, but it times out every time almost immediately. As @Teddis says this is most likely the cheap clone VCI we have. T6 is more expensive, but may solve your issue. Something to consider before you get the X431.

 

[dkfx]

its a VCI issue I believe. I have calibrated my TX case more than once. I use the T6

T6...? Is that different than the vas 6154 or a different unit all together? I have a iCarsoft from other porsche's but doubt it would be able to do something this intricate. Mars suggested the VNCI PT3G for this exact issue ; problem is I don't want to wait weeks for one to ship oversees.

 

[dkfx]

It connects, but it times out every time almost immediately. As @Teddis says this is most likely the cheap clone VCI we have. T6 is more expensive, but may solve your issue. Something to consider before you get the X431.

Just an FYI ; picked up a X431 (thanks amazon) and was unable to force calibrate the transfer box. I've got three codes that I can't get rid of, they all show active in PIWIS, yet inactive in launch.

1. Forced activation of PSM
2. All wheel drive clutch actuator incorrect basic setting and
3. Control Unit interchange.

-i've tried coding the AWD module and it says successful in piwis.
-I've tried programming, and now it'll code the dme, pdk, and the AWD module, but will not allow me to erase the codes so it says its unsuccessful.
-I tried coding the PR value to LU2 to see if that would help, and hasn't. In fact, I think this is what caused the control unit interchange error.
-Now I can't get rid of the active codes, and can't get anything to calibrate, or program.
-I'm not sure if a T6 would allow me to code it correctly, or if the module has been bricked and I should replace it...or if I should swap back the original TC and see if that isolates the issue and can re-code the module, or if a dealer visit (piwis 4) is necessary.

would love your input.

 

[rossmin]

Hey guys, thx for all of your wisdom here. I have an issue, after I changed the PDK oils of my 207 Macan turbo, the calibration failed when I reached the "clutch bite point adaptation" all the other calibration procedures were carried out, but this one. Now the car drives but doesn't keep much revs, even in Sport + mode when it reaches 4,000 RPM shifts to a higher gear, where before it used to keep the revs to 7K. For example, before, when driving in 7th gear in normal mode, when Sport+ was selected, it was dropping to 3rd gear, but now it drops to 4th, so it doesn't feel as sporty.

I called the Porsche dealer, and they told me I could have broken the PDK, and if I bring it for diagnostic, I have to sign a paper that the car might need a new transition...I ma like what...

Any suggestions would be highly appreciated, on what I can do next to fix the issue. Should I try another PDK calibration or PDK reset I see in the forum?