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Try that kit, no reprogramming is needed for that.

If that doesn't solve your problem, buy a new Mechatronic unit, and transfer your TCU from the old Mech to the new one. Most likely the old TCU is fine. Then some simple "adaptations" need to be run (with an aftermarket scan-tool like X431, Autel.....) but you won't need a Porsche dealer to program a new TCU with your VIN.
 
Hello. I have 2017 macan turbo. Looks like I my mechatronic is bad.
would like to mask you guys if you all know what’s the part number of that mechatronic. Thank you so much
 
Hello. I have 2017 macan turbo. Looks like I my mechatronic is bad.
would like to mask you guys if you all know what’s the part number of that mechatronic. Thank you so much

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Hi folks,I have a 2016 Porsche Macan S with 82k miles on it. A couple of days back I had the transmission fault message appear. It doesn't reappear after restarting the car and the car drives fine.
After having it scanned at a local indi the PIWIS returns "P17E100 2nd gear actuator - mechanical fault" code in the vehicle memory. At the time of scanning the vehicle was driving normally and all PDK parameters read normal on PIWIS. The indi shop did not have much idea on the error code. Does anyone have any suggestions/experience with this code? Do you folks think it's a bad mech unit?
 
Try that kit, no reprogramming is needed for that.

If that doesn't solve your problem, buy a new Mechatronic unit, and transfer your TCU from the old Mech to the new one. Most likely the old TCU is fine. Then some simple "adaptations" need to be run (with an aftermarket scan-tool like X431, Autel.....) but you won't need a Porsche dealer to program a new TCU with your VIN.

@VAGfan, just to clarify, if you transfer your TCU to the rebuilt Mechatronic unit, then neither of these repairs would require a trip to the Porsche dealer, correct?

It appears the repair kit is $580 versus the rebuilt Mechatronic being $700. Other than saving $120, is there any advantage to doing the repair kit over just purchasing the rebuilt Mechatronic?

After reading through some of the other transmission repair threads, I see a lot of good advice from you, so I was wondering what percentage of Macans with transmission problems do you think could be repaired with either the Mechatronic repair or rebuild? And if the rebuilt or repaired Mechatronic doesn't work and it needs a replacement transmission, what’s your opinion on buying a used transmission to swap in?

Thanks very much in advance!
 
If you transfer your old TCU to the new (or rebuilt) Mechatronic (valve-body portion), then no Dealer-only reprogramming is needed, but you probably need to have the calibration routines performed, which can be done at a Dealer, or with a clone PIWIS, Autel, or Launch scan-tool. The calibration routines would be needed if the new Mechatronics does not operate smoothly (shifts, clutch engagements/disengagements).

If a new TCU is installed, then a programming of the VIN, into the new TCU, is needed, as that is tied to the anti-theft system. I believe, only a dealer can do that.

The repair kit (which is only the two black interconnect boards) is expensive if a genuine kit is purchased (like what ECS sells), but much cheaper if aftermarket/clone kits are bought (like on Amazon or Ebay). If you are willing to take the risk that you may need to repeat the board replacement process, if a cheaper board fails, then it might be worth trying the cheaper board kits before I would try replacing the Mechatronic valve-body unit. Pulling the Mechtronic out, to replace the board, or replace the valve-body section is not a major undertaking for a mechanically inclined person, but following the instructions is critical to prevent damage to the ribbon cable that runs to the circular electrical connector that passes thru the transmission case. Of course a lift makes the job much easier, but I have heard people doing this on ramps too.

I think earlier DL501 transmissions had more issues with the black interconnect boards, like DTCs related to open circuits, or implausible clutch fluid temperatures, open electrical circuits of the solenoid valves, or open or implausible input speed sensors. The later production of these boards were improved to be more durable.

But if your DTCs are like clutch pressure too high/low, or "adaptations limits" exceeded, or mechanical "blockage" type of faults, then it is more likely a problem with the Mechatronic valve-body section. I don't think the TCU itself is a typical failure area.

One last area of issues are with the position sensors on the Mechatronic, which sense the position of the shift-forks. These sensors are opposite a small magnet which is part of the shift fork. Small ferrous magnetic particles, in the fluid (normal) can "stick" to these magnets, which can make the sensor read an inaccurate position of the shift fork, thereby causing DTC codes related to mechanical shift fork positions. The fix for these is to remove the Mechatronic unit, and wipe the magnetic particle sludge off of the ends of the four shift forks.

I think 99% of DL501 problems are with Mechatronic issues. The rest of the transmission is pretty robust, consisting of a 7 speed gear-box, and an oil-pump, and the dual-clutch assembly. There is one more electronic item inside the gear-box section, the "Gear Selector/Drive Range sensor, and the gearbox input speed sensors", but that rarely fails in later production DL501 transmissions. (This sensor does fail more often in the PDK of the 911, but that is a different transmission design/manufacturer).

Concerning a used DL501 transmission, that would be a last resort, but be aware that the DL501 fitted to the Macan had two different transmission cases, one for Porsche V6 engines, and a different one for the 2.0 4-cylinder and Audi V6 equipped Macans. This is because the engine bell-housing bolt patterns are different.
One risk with a used DL501 is that the wear condition of the dual-clutch may be unknown.
 
If you transfer your old TCU to the new (or rebuilt) Mechatronic (valve-body portion), then no Dealer-only reprogramming is needed, but you probably need to have the calibration routines performed, which can be done at a Dealer, or with a clone PIWIS, Autel, or Launch scan-tool. The calibration routines would be needed if the new Mechatronics does not operate smoothly (shifts, clutch engagements/disengagements).

If a new TCU is installed, then a programming of the VIN, into the new TCU, is needed, as that is tied to the anti-theft system. I believe, only a dealer can do that.

The repair kit (which is only the two black interconnect boards) is expensive if a genuine kit is purchased (like what ECS sells), but much cheaper if aftermarket/clone kits are bought (like on Amazon or Ebay). If you are willing to take the risk that you may need to repeat the board replacement process, if a cheaper board fails, then it might be worth trying the cheaper board kits before I would try replacing the Mechatronic valve-body unit. Pulling the Mechtronic out, to replace the board, or replace the valve-body section is not a major undertaking for a mechanically inclined person, but following the instructions is critical to prevent damage to the ribbon cable that runs to the circular electrical connector that passes thru the transmission case. Of course a lift makes the job much easier, but I have heard people doing this on ramps too.

I think earlier DL501 transmissions had more issues with the black interconnect boards, like DTCs related to open circuits, or implausible clutch fluid temperatures, open electrical circuits of the solenoid valves, or open or implausible input speed sensors. The later production of these boards were improved to be more durable.

But if your DTCs are like clutch pressure too high/low, or "adaptations limits" exceeded, or mechanical "blockage" type of faults, then it is more likely a problem with the Mechatronic valve-body section. I don't think the TCU itself is a typical failure area.

One last area of issues are with the position sensors on the Mechatronic, which sense the position of the shift-forks. These sensors are opposite a small magnet which is part of the shift fork. Small ferrous magnetic particles, in the fluid (normal) can "stick" to these magnets, which can make the sensor read an inaccurate position of the shift fork, thereby causing DTC codes related to mechanical shift fork positions. The fix for these is to remove the Mechatronic unit, and wipe the magnetic particle sludge off of the ends of the four shift forks.

I think 99% of DL501 problems are with Mechatronic issues. The rest of the transmission is pretty robust, consisting of a 7 speed gear-box, and an oil-pump, and the dual-clutch assembly. There is one more electronic item inside the gear-box section, the "Gear Selector/Drive Range sensor, and the gearbox input speed sensors", but that rarely fails in later production DL501 transmissions. (This sensor does fail more often in the PDK of the 911, but that is a different transmission design/manufacturer).

Concerning a used DL501 transmission, that would be a last resort, but be aware that the DL501 fitted to the Macan had two different transmission cases, one for Porsche V6 engines, and a different one for the 2.0 4-cylinder and Audi V6 equipped Macans. This is because the engine bell-housing bolt patterns are different.
One risk with a used DL501 is that the wear condition of the dual-clutch may be unknown.
Wow! Thanks very much for the thorough answer. The 2015 Macan Turbo I just bought last week just has a transfer case problem, and I have a new (reman) one coming this week. I do have a lift, so I'm hopeful that the swap of a transfer case is not that big of a deal.

I ask about the transmission issues for 3 reasons. First, I'd like to be prepared if I do have a transmission problem on the car I just bought. Second, I have seen another Macan on the market with a bad transmission, and I'm considering taking a risk on buying it to repair and then either use for my wife or just sell. Third, I really, really like the Macan (much more than I thought I would), yet I see a lot of complaints about the vehicle. Having been around Porsches for a while, it seems to me like these issues are kind of running through the normal Porsche "gestation" period - new model, has some serious flaws for the early purchasers that gives the model a bad reputation, the aftermarket steps in and comes up with effective repairs, then the model becomes well respected in the end. The 996 series is a perfect example (I've had 3 of them), but honestly there are many examples. So, because I think they are just such great little SUVs, I'd like to be able to chime in on the common misconceptions when visiting with friends about them. The transmission problem seems to be the most serious Achilles heel of this model, but if a repaired/rebuilt Mechatronic unit can be installed as a DIY for around $1,000, and there's a good chance that will take care of the problem (like 80% or more), then it really isn't a fatal flaw with the model. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
I agree with you 100%, VW / Audi / Porsche engines and transmissions need at least 4 to 5 years of production before the serious design flaws are addressed. The DL501 transmission has been in production since 2009, and by 2018 or 2019 it has gotten all (most?) issues fixed. You see the same issue with the Macan Transfer Case, which was designed and built by Magna, starting production in 2015. By 2018/2019 they got it right. And by then, they usually introduce a whole new engine/transmission design, and they start back at square-zero with design issues, sometimes the same as what they fixed in the prior generation!

I think your DIY replacement of the Transfer Case is certainly very doable, getting the damper off is the biggest challenge. Note that IF you need to remove the cross-brace, under the transmission, for better access, Porsche specifies that the brace can only be removed when the vehicle weight is off of the front wheels. I use a Quick-Jack on the ramps of my 4-post lift, when I need to remove the cross-brace, like when I service the internal filter of the DL501.

Please take lots of pictures of your replacement effort.
 
I agree with you 100%, VW / Audi / Porsche engines and transmissions need at least 4 to 5 years of production before the serious design flaws are addressed. The DL501 transmission has been in production since 2008, and by 2018 or 2019 it has gotten all (most?) issues fixed. You see the same issue with the Macan Transfer Case, which was designed and built by Magna, starting production in 2015. By 2018/2019 they got it right.

I think your DIY replacement of the Transfer Case is certainly very doable, getting the damper off is the biggest challenge. Note that IF you need to remove the cross-brace, under the transmission, for better access, Porsche specifies that the brace can only be removed when the vehicle weight is off of the front wheels. I use a Quick-Jack on the ramps of my 4-post lift, when I need to remove the cross-brace, like when I service the internal filter of the DL501.
Thanks for the tip as I do have a 4-post lift. I'll use the jack tray to take the weight off the wheels if I do that.
Do you happen to know if the Genuine Porsche reman transfer case comes with a vibration damper installed? Although I have one ordered, none of the parts suppliers (Porsche dealers included) show a picture of the part anywhere. I've asked @Cookem16 to borrow his custom-made damper puller, but he said he thought the reman unit would come with one already installed. I hate to bother him to ship it out to me if I don't need it, but I also don't want to delay another week or so waiting for the puller if the reman transfer case doesn't come with a damper installed.
 
While I hope you get this issue sorted ASAP and at a reasonable price, stories like these just give further verification why one should never own a German vehicle out of warranty.

😨
Very untrue. Problem here is replacing rather than fixing. Nobody fixes anything anymore.
 
Thanks for the tip as I do have a 4-post lift. I'll use the jack tray to take the weight off the wheels if I do that.
Do you happen to know if the Genuine Porsche reman transfer case comes with a vibration damper installed? Although I have one ordered, none of the parts suppliers (Porsche dealers included) show a picture of the part anywhere. I've asked @Cookem16 to borrow his custom-made damper puller, but he said he thought the reman unit would come with one already installed. I hate to bother him to ship it out to me if I don't need it, but I also don't want to delay another week or so waiting for the puller if the reman transfer case doesn't come with a damper installed.
y
Thanks for the tip as I do have a 4-post lift. I'll use the jack tray to take the weight off the wheels if I do that.
Do you happen to know if the Genuine Porsche reman transfer case comes with a vibration damper installed? Although I have one ordered, none of the parts suppliers (Porsche dealers included) show a picture of the part anywhere. I've asked @Cookem16 to borrow his custom-made damper puller, but he said he thought the reman unit would come with one already installed. I hate to bother him to ship it out to me if I don't need it, but I also don't want to delay another week or so waiting for the puller if the reman transfer case doesn't come with a damper installed.
from suncoast
Genuine Porsche factory remanufactured transfer case and installation hardware. If you have an unusual shuttering effect under acceleration, this could be the issue. Have your Macan inspected to verify before you order. Our kit comes with a factory remanufactured transfer case, vibration damper, gaskets, and hardware recommended by Porsche.
 
No idea if the damper comes with the rebuilt TC, but I would guess that it is not included.
Sitting at a stoplight, the transmission started going from 1rst to 2nd making clunking noises just like when when you’re calibrating the PDK. Sport mode made it go away. Gear position sensor?
No codes.
I do like the idea of cleaning the forks.
Time to research the gear sensor.
Your thoughts?
 
Software needs updating, I have version 0002 in PDK, Teddis has version 0017.
There‘s a campaign to update in PIWIS 3, I’ll know for sure in the AM.
Hopefully won’t brick the ECU. There’s 3 stages in programming, DME, transmission and instrument cluster. Be careful in DME, make sure you don’t erase your VIN.
 
Try that kit, no reprogramming is needed for that.

If that doesn't solve your problem, buy a new Mechatronic unit, and transfer your TCU from the old Mech to the new one. Most likely the old TCU is fine. Then some simple "adaptations" need to be run (with an aftermarket scan-tool like X431, Autel.....) but you won't need a Porsche dealer to program a new TCU with your VIN.
I did this and still have the 2-1 downshift issue. Must be changes in the module. At any rate , I'm real good at taking out and putting in the Mech unit. I should have just bought tires.
 
The entire Mechatronic unit may not have to be replaced, there are some portions of it that have replacement parts available. The problem is that not many people know how to troubleshoot the problem down to the component level, and just replace the entire expensive Mechatronic unit.
Hello. 2015 Macan Turbo P2737 pressure control solenoid F control circuit range performance. Has anyone successfully solved this exact code? Did you replace 1 solenoid? Did you replace the circuit board kit on the valve body? Did you replace the entire valve body?
 
In my extensive research on DL501 repairs, your DTC trouble codes point to the need to replace the vertical PCB2 "Circuit Board", which contains the clutch temperature sensor. These "circuit" boards are a common failure, the internal connections open, or become intermittent, and then the TCU computer can't "see" the clutch temperature (because the sensor is not connected), causing it to trigger these DTCs. There is another board ("PCB1"), for connections between the solenoid valves and the TCU, and this board often fails the same way. Both boards can be easily replaced (a few screws and they unplug), after the entire Mechatronics unit is dropped out of the bottom of the transmission, after the pan is removed. I would try this first, much cheaper than replacing (and reprogramming) the entire Mechatronics unit.
Audi B8/B8.5 S4 Quattro 3.0T Drivetrain DSG Transmission - 0B5398009F - Mechatronics Repair Kit 0B5398009F (0B5 398 009 F) (ecstuning.com)

These board repair kits are available from lots of different vendors, don't know if the cheaper ones are any different.

See "PCB1" and PCB2" in the below pic of the Mechatronics unit. There are YouTube videos of this type of repair. View attachment 262355
Vagfan you seem to be the authority on this topic! Please help. 2015 Macan Turbo P2737 DTC F solenoid performance. I cannot find good info on this specifically. Would a repair kit with new filter and fluid solve this? Not sure if the issues lies in the circuit boards or the F solenoid only? Not sure which is the F solenoid? All the repair kits include 2 solenoids only (are they the common ones to go bad?) any insight please and thank you so much!
 
The board kit, with the two valves, is not what you need. The two valves included in the kit are the clutch control valves N436 and N440 (not the same as the Pressure Control Valve N472). You can buy cheaper board kits which do not include the clutch valves.

1) First try a fluid and filter change. Might help, but can't hurt.

2) If that does not help, then remove the Mechatronics unit and replace the Main Pressure Control Solenoid N472. But, you should also replace the 2 circuit boards, as they are supposed to be one-time use only (After you unplug them, they are not to be reused). You need to unplug the lower board to replace N472.
Sonnax BorgWarner Line Pressure (N472) & Clutch Cooling (N471) Solenoid - 50229
Image



3) If that does not help, then the problem might be with the mechanical pressure regulator valve, which is known to wear out the bore. The only way to fix that is to rebore the valve, and install an oversize valve plunger.
Image


4) The most expensive but perhaps quickest way to fix this is to buy a rebuilt valve body (without a TCU), and swap your old TCU onto the new valve body.
Valve body (mechatronics) without electronic control unit, automatic transmission 0B5 (DL501) 0B5325025T 0B5325031N regenerated (maktrans.net)
 
The board kit, with the two valves, is not what you need. The two valves included in the kit are the clutch control valves N436 and N440 (not the same as the Pressure Control Valve N472). You can buy cheaper board kits which do not include the clutch valves.

1) First try a fluid and filter change. Might help, but can't hurt.

2) If that does not help, then remove the Mechatronics unit and replace the Main Pressure Control Solenoid N472. But, you should also replace the 2 circuit boards, as they are supposed to be one-time use only (After you unplug them, they are not to be reused). You need to unplug the lower board to replace N472.
Sonnax BorgWarner Line Pressure (N472) & Clutch Cooling (N471) Solenoid - 50229
View attachment 281219


3) If that does not help, then the problem might be with the mechanical pressure regulator valve, which is known to wear out the bore. The only way to fix that is to rebore the valve, and install an oversize valve plunger.
View attachment 281220

4) The most expensive but perhaps quickest way to fix this is to buy a rebuilt valve body (without a TCU), and swap your old TCU onto the new valve body.
Valve body (mechatronics) without electronic control unit, automatic transmission 0B5 (DL501) 0B5325025T 0B5325031N regenerated (maktrans.net)
VAGfan you are the authority on this transmission! Thank you!

2015 Macan Turbo P2737 pressure control solenoid F control circuit range performance. Have you seen this specific single code? Can you replace 1 solenoid only? Should I replace the circuit board kit on the valve body? Do I just put an refurb entire valve body in? Would a fluid change really correct the issue?
 
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