Hey everyone,

I wanted to share my experience fixing the burst coolant pipe issue, following Santrix’s advice (huge thanks to him for the great videos and guidance!). I made a slight variation on the parts typically used, so hopefully, this helps others considering the repair.

Parts Used:

HPS Silicone Coolant Hose – Ordered directly since Amazon was out of stock.

Dorman Clamps (800-312) – Needed 6 clamps, but these are sold in 5-packs, so I grabbed two.

Billet Aluminum T from Vargas Turbo – Excellent quality and correct size. I also considered an oversized T, but this one worked great.

95B122447E Hose – Used this to harvest the 45-degree connector, which fits the new front routing path of the tubing better than the original 90-degree rear-connecting design. This is the same part as the upper hose on the valve.


Everything went smoothly, and the new setup feels more robust than the OEM parts. Hopefully, this helps anyone else tackling the same issue. Let me know if you have any questions!

Cheers

 

i'm doing this mod, and I can tell you that this T-aluminium is fitting : https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008046816864.html

 

@ShadowMacan From where You get head connection (I mean part which should be putted into opening in each of heads). Did You use ends from original damaged pipes or it could be bought separately?
I know Santrix have one made from metal, but cost with delivery is ridiculous for me Or maybe someone have exact drawing of this part then it could be even easier to prepare it.
I found some cheap pipes on china pages (~10 dollars) so maybe I buy one to check how it handle, but if there is any possibility it will be better.

 

It's harvested from a new standard plastic pipe part. Radhaus already produced a metal piece. The effort of remaking their project probably isn't worth it. You can 3D scan the plastic piece and CAD model a part if you really wanted.

 

PM me for the drawings. I've had a couple of them made from 3D printed 7075 aluminum. total price shipped to me in Canada was $50/pair. Clean up the O-ring groove a bit with a 3m cloth before using and you get a nice shiny finish.

 

How would I be able to obtain a set like these? I haven’t ordered anything 3d printed before, let alone an aluminum print.

Would you be willing to share the info to duplicate the order? (I see the drawings above but don’t know how to get that printed, or if that’s enough information.)

 

@Santirx Just to confirm, would you say that this bypass can be done without removing the manifold and by perhaps pulling out the old line once replaced?

 

Correct. Is all detailed in my video:

How could Porsche get this so WRONG! The Coolant Vent Tubing Story & the EASY FIX... Macan 1st GEN

 

Hello guys! Approximately how long is the hose piece from T-fitting to Bleeder valve?

 

I bought a 1.5M (5ft) hose and have 48cm left. Assuming the other 2 pieces at the T-fitting was 14cm (?) each that would mean the piece from the hose to the bleeder valve was approximately 74cm.

 

I don't recall how long it was, but I bought a 1.5m length, cut the two small pieces off and then trimmed it to fit at the valve and there was some left over.

 

Thanks TCP2!!

 

Hello! Today also my vent tube has been retrofitted. Many thanks @Santirx for all tips and information!!!!! The pipe was generally in good condition but the connector to vent valve has been broken during disconnecting. Job was done almost nice and easy with little difficulties!

 

@santirix saved my butt more than once with his videos. I did this fix and didn’t use the zip ties bc I was in a hurry and it looked fine. Well, once the hose filled with coolant it sagged onto the pulley below just enough to burn a hole in the side of the hose! 🤣 I re-repaired and used the zip ties. Next comes the front control arm kit! Thanks again to all who post so we can do our own $ervice

 

Yesterday, I removed the hose with prototype fittings which I used to test design (very successful after about 5,000 miles driven), to install the RADHAUS hose with the final production fittings. In the photo you can see both the prototype on the right and the final production hose on the left. RADHAUS did a great job at putting this product together using my fitting design…

 

The RADHAUS kit looks perfect, but shipping to my country is too high. I find professional workshop which fabricated the connectors.

 

Hmm that’s odd, we ship internationally for free. Either way, well done with the custom fabrication!

 

Which size of hose You use there? 8 mm inner diameter? Second thing - where do you get fastplug for coolant bleeder? I found one for fuel system (7.89 for 8 mm hose), but original looks like designed for smaller diameter.

 

Did my fix this past weekend with the RADHAUS hose kit and it worked perfectly. The difficult part was everything other than the kit! Kind of a lack of oversight on my part + naive optimism, but do yourself a favor and order a replacement for both the bleeder valve (PN: 7P5121671A) and the other hoses connected to it to save yourself the headache. For me this was the hose to the radiator (PN: 95B122447E).

Here's how the whole thing went for me:

• Removed everything needed to start the hose replacement (throttle body and boot, etc)
• Unbolted the old fittings on both sides of the engine. If you're like me and didn't have a pick, my tip would be to pivot/turn the bolt holes upwards so you can curl a ziptie and feed it through the holes and use it as a pull loop.

You can see my pliers at the top grabbing the end as I feed it through.
- I finish both sides, and I start to remove the old lower right hose going to the bleeder valve to connect the new hose from the kit and uh....

- So of course, I buy a new bleeder valve, and start to now remove that upper right hose attached to the old bleeder valve, and it breaks off of the fitting...so that was another thing that kept me from being finally done. In retrospect, given the reason why we're even having to do this fix in the first place, I should've known 🙃. As I said, I only needed to replace the upper right hose, but I just recently replaced the expansion tank and it's hose to the bleeder valve. Given the failure rate of things in that area, especially the nipple on the expansion tank, I would probably replace that if you haven't already.

 

So happy to see another successful installation! Well done!

 

Excellent write up 💕

 

Finally, installation of the RADHAUS Coolant Vent bypass hose with fittings designed by SANTIRX Engineering in my 2015 Macan S...

 

I had my T tube replaced earlier this year. The original gave out about 70K miles. On this forum last year there was a story about a new fix for this design flaw. I lost the name of the supplier but I got one of the first available, early this year. My shop installed it in 1.5 hours and was impressed with the design and construction of the kit. All the connections are machined metal an the T is high pressure hose formed and assembled. Sorry I can't find the supplier but all early Macans should have this done as a preventative measure, I plan to keep my car and the spaghetti plastic tubing will fail and require a tow to a shop and a bill more then the upgrade was.

 

One more successful coolant hose fix in the books

i bought the radhaus hose a couple of months back, put it on the shelf as I occasionally smelled coolant after a long drive. Well, the other day I looked and the coolant reservoir was low and there was a puddle under the car. The plastic basically disintegrated once I started unbolting the fittings from the heads, so it was definitely time.

With the right tools, this job took me less than an hour and we are back on the road. Nice solution!

 

I followed Santirix’s solution and skipped the zip ties as I was in a bit of a time bind. DON’T SKIP the zip ties. I had the hose sag a bit once filled with coolant and it rubbed on the pulley below it. I had to replace the whole section.
just FYI. Happy motoring!

 

2017 Macan GTS - owned from new July 2016, 31,000 miles, recently had 30,000 mile service.

I was fortunate that I noticed refrigerant underneath the car one morning and did not experience a catastrophic failure. I was able to diagnose the problem by surfing this forum. The OEM pipes that connect to the engine had cracked, one was leaking I could see coolant around the leak point.

I bought the Radhaus hose assembly ($295) and followed the Santirix install video. The Radhaus website offered several delivery options, and I paid $17 for 3-day delivery. The hose assembly was promptly shipped and arrived in 4 days (due to day 3 being a Sunday) no complaints on that, I could see from the tracking information that the package had arrived in town and UPS was sitting on it.

Some pointers from someone who is handy but has never done anything like this on a car (and didn't fancy paying the dealership thousands for a fix that won't stand test of time):

1. I found this link to be good companion piece to the video, for removing parts and pieces to avoid breaking things, https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_Macan/Throttle_Body_Cleaning_and_Replacement/Throttle_Body_Cleaning_and_Replacement.htm?srsltid=AfmBOoo4qUWzzUXX8Ldps7BWm7eCDwmGyl6gBy-z_2E26D29uJlGSARr

2. I noticed in the video that Santirix used a magnetic retriever to make sure bolts did not get lost. I bought a telescoping one from Advance Autoparts. This came in handy.

3. The disassembly of the throttle body, particularly the rubber bellows in my situation was very difficult to remove. It obviously hadn't been moved in a long time and was not in any hurry to be pried off. It took some time and a good amount of effort (and sweating and cursing), but I was eventually able to remove it while being careful to not break anything. It went back on much easier than removal. I'm glad I took time to do the disassembly the day before the Radhaus part arrived so I was refreshed and not frustrated when I started the new install.

4. Note that when removing the OEM plastic piping from the bleeder valve, the nipple on the bleeder valve is quite long and I can see how it could be easy to snap off the nipple. (As a precaution I did order the spare parts in thread #407 above, and I have them handy in case there is an issue in the future).

4. I was unable to remove the electrical connection to the throttle body, I did depress the clips on the top and bottom, but found myself trying to force it. Rather than potentially break it, I was able to leave the electrical connection in place and carefully move the throttle body around to get the access I needed to do the Radhaus install.

5. I bought an extension rod for my socket set to reach the bolts which attach the expansion hose to the engine (necessary I would say).

6. I bought large 11" needle pliers from Lowes which were also invaluable Kobalt 11-in Needle Nose Pliers 59342 at Lowes.com

7. Torque setting for throttle body bolts 7Nm, and 9Nm for bolts which connect expansion pipe to engine.

8. I recommend laying out the new hose assembly completely before doing any attachment. The new hose needs to be beneath various other pipes and cables to allow the throttle body to be reattached without obstruction.

9. The Santirix video shows how to add coolant and manually vent the system. I followed this and found that when I checked the coolant level after test driving the vehicle that the coolant level lowered pretty significantly. I assume this is because there was some air trapped in the system that did not vent. Slowly but surely the remnants of entrapped air are finding their way out of the system (there are no leaks causing the reservoir level to drop) and I have topped up with coolant twice. The second time was not a significant amount of coolant, I suspect that will hold from here. (Note the coolant level does vary a little depending on if the engine is hot or coolant has had opportunity to cool overnight, and I am accounting for this).

10. The Radhaus hose kit worked well and car is performing well, holding 200 deg F (even in FL heat) and no leaks.

11. IMO Porsche should have a recall on this issue, there is no excuse to have simple piping fail and causing catastrophic failures on a modern car with only 31k miles.

 

Orange needle nose pliers shows that I used a speed handle to remove E10 bolts.
Came out in pieces.
Used fine right angle tool to extract the pieces that broke off into head.

 

For you that have done this proactively prior to a full failure. How much coolant ended up in your engine bay when you removed and cut the old lines loose? Did you have to remove the undertray to clean anything up?

 

First, do this with car completely cold. Before cutting, place some towels to collect the coolant content in the tubing. With towels you should be able to collect the spilled coolant which is not much. Refer to my original video on the topic.