I completed a proactive hose replacement on Monday and have since driven 4 times. Two of those drives were about an hour each with one in traffic. Nothing out of the ordinary to report except maybe the smell of some coolant that may have spilled on the block.

My notes from performing the work: Have a good, long set of picks with suitable handles to extract the old fittings as they don't come out easily. I found that moving the fittings left and right first to break them free made them easier to remove. It's kinda scary removing the fitting screws as you can't get even a finger on them. My magnetic pickup is on the weak side (new one on the way now, of course) and I ended up using a long reach needle nose plier to extract the screws after loosening them. DON'T use a powered socket wrench to reinstall the screws for the fittings. In particular, the driver's side screw is easy to get started at an angle and cross thread if not careful.

Thanks again to all who researched this alternative to removing the intake manifold and reinstalling another OEM hose with a limited lifespan. At 7 years old and 65K miles my hose didn't crumble in my hands but it did "snap" with a crack when I cut it and also when I tried to bend it at the fitting.

 

I completed a proactive hose replacement on Monday and have since driven 4 times. Two of those drives were about an hour each with one in traffic. Nothing out of the ordinary to report except maybe the smell of some coolant that may have spilled on the block.

My notes from performing the work: Have a good, long set of picks with suitable handles to extract the old fittings as they don't come out easily. I found that moving the fittings left and right first to break them free made them easier to remove. It's kinda scary removing the fitting screws as you can't get even a finger on them. My magnetic pickup is on the weak side (new one on the way now, of course) and I ended up using a long reach needle nose plier to extract the screws after loosening them. DON'T use a powered socket wrench to reinstall the screws for the fittings. In particular, the driver's side screw is easy to get started at an angle and cross thread if not careful.

Thanks again to all who researched this alternative to removing the intake manifold and reinstalling another OEM hose with a limited lifespan. At 7 years old and 65K miles my hose didn't crumble in my hands but it did "snap" with a crack when I cut it and also when I tried to bend it at the fitting.

Great points and luckily my magnetic reacher has a strong magnet. I've only driven a few times so far but still get a bit of coolant smell when I park, but it's dissipating slowly. I did "vacuum" out the old hose by the reserviour after cutting it and a couple of ounces of coolant came out so that may be the source of some of the smell as it heats up.

 

I was on my way to autozone to pick up some diff oil, the car catastrophically failed exactly as expected at @ 80,600 miles. I literally had all the parts for this repair and decided not to prioritize it because of my faulty logic: "oh it's cold in New York now, this issue won't happen".

When the leak started, i knew exactly what happened and I couldn't believe it was actually happening to me! I saw a white puff of smoke, a loud sizzle, and then a major leak trail out of my rearview window. I was lucky and was able to park right on the side of the road before the car overheated and had it towed to indy right away.

My mechanic just did this DIY vent hose solution for me.

However, there was a slight miscommunication and he took my hose and instead of routing to the front of engine to the reservoir, he routed it directly back through the engine to the same hose spot in the back.

I guess it was my fault for not fully communicating -- I gave him the hose with the left and right portions already clamped and surgery'd from a new hose. I said "just cut those hose" and finish it. He took the end of the Y-pipe and replicated the exact same design as OEM except with silicone hose. He did take off the intake manifolds.

So i guess I'll be the durability guinea pig for a Y-pipe conversion that runs through the engine -- In theory, the silicone hose should be a lot more durable than the rubber

All in all $2100 all in for y-pipe silicone job, new thermostat and new water pump. Figured might as well get those replaced since cars already in the shop.

Lesson? Don't be me. If you have a weekend for the DIY, just do it. I got lucky and was close by. Just because winter is right around the corner does not mean the hoses won't crack -- if anything, it might have been caused by the heat / cold cycle that this winter is bringing!

 

That should be fine. The silicone hose should hold up under there without issue and the rest stays OEM. He did have to go through the extra trouble of removing a bunch of parts, but that's water under the bridge.

 

Mine is routed almost same way as the factory routing and replaces the plastic with rubber hose and brass fittings. I am still researching options to replace the fittings in the heads.

Using rubber hose, it's quite a cosy fit. You can't replicate the exact routing with rubber hose

 

Thanks to everyone providing the great solution!
Wanted to reach out - 2015 Macan S with 55K mls. affected.

The fitting on the right side went bad and I got the 'low coolant - stop vehicle immediately'-message yesterday.

Couple of questions:

1. Does this tube do the job for all 3 hose parts (amazon: KDP 1/4"X5FT(ID:6MM) 1.5 M Silicone Heater Hose Coolant)?
2. Do I need all hose clamps (amazon: AKIHISA 420Pcs 20 sizes Single Ear Hose Clamps)? Or: Which hose clamps exactly are needed?
3. It was not clear to me with all feedback here: Do I need to buy a new hose for the fitments? In case yes: Is the original one needed or any replacement?
4. Any recommendation for a mount clip to attach the new hose to the radiator hose?

I appreciate your feedback!

 

1. Yes
2. I forget which size but one of them is a pretty perfect fit.
3. technically no, you could re-use the existing hose adapters if they aren't broken but i don't think anyone recommends that. You might be introducing a new failure point to save a little bit of money.

 

METAL VENT PIPE/TUBE UPGRADE (STAINLESS STEEL) - CAYENNE (957/958)

Introducing the Eurowise Metal Vent Pipe Upgrade for the 957 Porsche Cayenne – the ultimate solution to the nagging issues posed by the original plastic vent pipe. Designed to address the inherent weaknesses of the OEM part. The 957 Porsche Cayenne's original vent pipe, made from plastic, has...

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Not sure if anyone else has run across this stainless replacement source. A bit pricey but a once and done solution as well.

 

This is not the same. We have not found a solution like this for the Macan. As posted earlier, I gave the fitting design to @RADHAUS and they are working on a solution for our Macan that will include aluminum fitting.

 

Wow from Australia, what a fantastic detailed thread, so much info, feel like I could do it myself. If only I had a garage instead of a car port. Hoping my local workshop will oblige. My Macan is 2017 with 120K kilometers. Never had an issue, but yes got the red warning yesterday. Refilled cooland and made it home, 200ks With minimal leakage, and watching temp. Then today did it again, and found coolant in underbody tray. Don’t want to fix with original Crap. Hope my mechanic will read all this info and be able to source parts. Could be off the road for a while. As you advised will buy the OEM part to get new fittings. Looks like I will be riding my Hypermotard Ducati more for now, being Christmas and all. Wish that new part was available.

 

Neil here again. Thinking might be best to use new OEM pipe and put new silicon tubing from T junction to bleeder connection. This should be simple, no parts to make up. Wonder if new pipe from T connecter is flexible enough to rout directly to bleeder. How easy would that be. Anyone let me know if this is flexible. Or is this a bad idea. Probably last 100K or more and easy to replace again if needed in 5 years time.

 

My ‘17 GTS with 96k miles (only 1yr and 3k miles so far under my ownership) dumped its coolant due to a split vent tube just above the driver’s side fitting. I learned about this issue while waiting for the tow truck. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and especially Santirx‘s Youtube video (now subscribed to his channel), I made the repair using the modified routing method with silicone hose.

The HPS 1/4” ID silicone heater hose Santirx recommended is great and what I used, but it might be out of stock on Amazon now. Get at least 5ft.

Here is a list of the other items I purchased from Amazon:
-Podavelle 1/4” 6mm Hose Barb Tee T Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black
-Seept 75Pcs 8 Sizes 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps 6-23.5mm Crimp Hose Clamps Assortment Kit
-Gearwrench CV Boot Clamp Tool - 3955
-Hazet 850-E10 Socket 1/4” Square Torx E10

I have not made enough posts on this forum to include direct links for these items, but will try to do so later.

I preferred an aluminum tee instead of stainless or bronze to avoid any galvanic issues with the mostly aluminum coolant system.
The Seept hose clamps are really nice quality and the Gearwrench tool worked perfect for crimping them.
My 3/8” drive socket was too large to fit between all the other nearby hoses and cables to undo the bolts on the old vent fittings, but the 1/4” Hazet E10 with a few 1/4” extensions fit easily.

Besides the (946-106-026-60) Engine Coolant Pipe, I purchased a few other items from my local dealer.

I didn’t want to reuse the existing 90deg angle quick connector at the bleeder valve, so I bought (95B-122-447-E) Overflow Hose from my dealer, carefully removed the 45deg angle quick connector, and used that instead. It also allowed better routing of the silicone hose. It is the same hose/fitting that connects the radiator to the upper port of the bleeder valve. I was not able to find the 45deg angle quick connector to purchase on its own unfortunately.

I replaced the throttle body gasket (948-110-144-02) with a new one. The old gasket was crushed to about half the thickness of the new one.

I purchased Porsche coolant (000-043-305-75) from my local dealer and diluted to 50/50 with distilled water from the supermarket. I only needed 1/2 gallon of each to refill my system. It was cheaper than buying premixed Zerex G40 from the local auto parts stores.

 

My ‘17 GTS with 96k miles (only 1yr and 3k miles so far under my ownership) dumped its coolant due to a split vent tube just above the driver’s side fitting. I learned about this issue while waiting for the tow truck. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and especially Santrix‘s Youtube video (now subscribed to his channel), I made the repair using the modified routing method with silicone hose.

The HPS 1/4” ID silicone heater hose Santrix recommended is great and what I used, but it might be out of stock on Amazon now. Get at least 5ft.

Here is a list of the other items I purchased from Amazon:
-Podavelle 1/4” 6mm Hose Barb Tee T Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black
-Seept 75Pcs 8 Sizes 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps 6-23.5mm Crimp Hose Clamps Assortment Kit
-Gearwrench CV Boot Clamp Tool - 3955
-Hazet 850-E10 Socket 1/4” Square Torx E10

I have not made enough posts on this forum to include direct links for these items, but will try to do so later.

I preferred an aluminum tee instead of stainless or bronze to avoid any galvanic issues with the mostly aluminum coolant system.
The Seept hose clamps are really nice quality and the Gearwrench tool worked perfect for crimping them.
My 3/8” drive socket was too large to fit between all the other nearby hoses and cables to undo the bolts on the old vent fittings, but the 1/4” Hazet E10 with a few 1/4” extensions fit easily.

Besides the (946-106-026-60) Engine Coolant Pipe, I purchased a few other items from my local dealer.

I didn’t want to reuse the existing 90deg angle quick connector at the bleeder valve, so I bought (95B-122-447-E) Overflow Hose from my dealer, carefully removed the 45deg angle quick connector, and used that instead. It also allowed better routing of the silicone hose. It is the same hose/fitting that connects the radiator to the upper port of the bleeder valve. I was not able to find the 45deg angle quick connector to purchase on its own unfortunately.

I replaced the throttle body gasket (948-110-144-02) with a new one. The old gasket was crushed to about half the thickness of the new one.

I purchased Porsche coolant (000-043-305-75) from my local dealer and diluted to 50/50 with distilled water from the supermarket. I only needed 1/2 gallon of each to refill my system. It was cheaper than buying premixed Zerex G40 from the local auto parts stores.

Good to hear. Nice write up. Welcome to the forum!

 

I did mine with the factory part - shoulda thought to just replace with hose. However, where the pipe connects behind electrical block near the fire wall, where does the breather circuit go after that? The tube I connected it to seems to drop down around the bell housing. Anyone know where it leads?

 

See post 257 and 259. There isn’t anything else connected. This routes from the two vent locations in the front of engine to the vent valve attached to left filter housing.

 

Did the “Santirx” mod on my daughters 17 S yesterday. 1 fitting came out in pieces and the tubing was extremely brittle. Easily crushed between my fingers. I used new “doner” fittings harvested from the new hose but I won’t trust them for more than a couple years. We need aluminum fittings stat! Hopefully this is being developed? Huge thank you to @Santirx for the 3d printed clamps which made it look factory.

Di

 

Did the “Santirx” mod on my daughters 17 S yesterday. 1 fitting came out in pieces and the tubing was extremy brittle. Easily crushed between my fingers. I used new “doner” fittings harvested from the new hose but I won’t trust them for more than a couple years. We need aluminum fittings stat! Hopefully this is being developed? Huge thank you to @Santirx for the 3d printed clamps which made it look factory.
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Great to see! There is progress with aluminum fittings. Prototypes are being currently build and testing will commence soon. More on that soon.

 

My Porsche dealer here in Melbourne Australia quoted AU $3000, that’s $4500 USD. So my mechanic is doing this fix but I’m getting him to run two hoses, so no t-joiner under the throttle body. The pipes will join up close to the bleeder valve. Easier to implement and less chance of leakage and if leaking I will see it. Anyway took the bash pan of and coolant and dirt everywhere on RHS above and below alternator. Wanted to see if water pump or thermostat are leaking. But no way to tell. Anyway should be fixed next week. Fingers crossed. Will report back. Great work team.

 

Interesting approach…. Yes, this should work too… and you are correct, less joined parts in hard to access spaces…

 

Think you’ve got those dollars back to front

 

The aluminum fittings are key to this lasting any real length of time. Unfortunately this will be a 2 year maintenance item until then. I like the idea of routing the T closer to the Bleeder. So great to have creative ideas on fixing this issue.

 

Having trouble removing throttle body! I removed the 4 bolts on each corner but it will not budge! What am I missing?

 

If 4 bolts are removed, it should come out. Maybe is stuck… you just have to wiggle it until it comes lose. Maybe gasket is all degraded there. Hopefully you have a new one.

 

Gave it a good wack with a hammer and it came right off. No harm to anything. THe plastic pieces were very brittle from the tubing and pieces are all over the place. Now I dropped the bolt down into the engine bay some where... Getting a boroscope to look for it...

 

Is this an issue in Gen 2 cars. 2021 S

 

I own both a 2017 and a 2020. Non issue on the later Audi derived 2.9 tt engine.

 

Is this an issue in Gen 2 cars. 2021 S

Is this an issue in Gen 2 cars. 2021 S

Gen2 Macan is a different engine (developed by Audi/Porsche partnership). So it may not have this issue. But I’m not familiar with the engine.

 

I hate to ask such a stupid question but, having a BS in Engineering, I'm confused. Why use a 5/16" T fitting with 1/4 inch ID hose? Is it to match the inside diameter of the fitting to the hose, thereby minimizing the constriction? Does it really matter on a vent hose?

 

Also engineer here… I tried as it seemed to be a logical choice. Fit with the 1/4” felt loose with the hose I got. However, knowing from experience how theory translate into reality, I also ordered the 5/16” one, and that was a better fit. Yes, you want to minimize restriction, but if you consider the size of original tubing, you would be OK with 1/4”. You could try with a different hose, but then, the fittings would be a problem.

So, in short, use the sizes I’m recommending here and in the video…😊

 

Aluminum fitting prototypes completed. Will be installing next weekend in my Macan and on a friend’s Macan. We are close to a full very robust solution on this…. Stay tuned.

 

**** those look nice. Will they be for sale without the rest of the hose as I just need to swap those out.

 

Sign up list depending on batch size production?

 

Ask and you shall receive! (With endorsement from @Santirx of course)

More details and dedicated thread to follow.

Pre-order available here: PRE-ORDER for RADHAUS 95B.1 Coolant Vent Line Bypass Kit (2015-2018 Ma

 

Ordered! Thanks guys.

 

Aluminum fitting prototypes installed. Fit was perfect. Used EPDM o-ring. Now long-term testing begins (probably for a month to make sure the design is good)…. Stay tuned!

 

That’s beautiful!

 

Congrats to those on design, manufacturing and fitment !
Let us know how it goes in Dakar ….

 

I just finished your video, Santirx. This is wonderful, thank you! I just bought a 2015 Macan S with 130K miles. I am going through everything that I want to repair/replace NOW before anything goes wrong, such as this very oddly designed coolant line. I was about to order everything from your video, but these aluminum fittings and 3D-printed clamps look wonderful. Is there a way we can be notified when these kits will be available? I have a very short commute most days but I will be thinking of this failure every day until I replace it and update it myself.

 

On the testing side… I have driven over 500 miles now, with very robust performance.