Have a leaking hose that's under the intake. I'm losing coolant from it. Not sure if its the pencil-sized hose but does it really cost $550 for parts and labor? I'm assuming it more labor intensive to justify the cost. Macan turbo
Coolant hose under the intake? (DIY procedure included!)
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tangcoral
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I don’t consider myself a pro, but I take you comments as a compliment.. of course, I’ll make a video…😊
How did you get it off? I tried pushing the clip in but the connector doesn't want to budge.
I can't seem to remove or see these bolts holding the engine harness in place. I swear to go it's like Porsche designed this to fail and not have "catastrophic damage" but worry owners enough. The coolant puddles nicely in the "V". The plastic clips are so brittle compared to any japanese or american car I've worked on.
For anyone doing this in the future the bolts to hold the wiring harness at 2 8mm bolts. The space is extremely narrow and I had to use 1/4" sockets its so tight. One of the bolts is at the 9 oclock position and the second is at the 1130 oclock position--youll see a tower of harnesesses/plugs on the back towards the firewall. I tried to gently push them back to unclip them but the brittle plastic clips snapped instantly. Then youll be able to see the rear screw.
I second that emotion. But got it done. I thought it was a dick-mission. The hose looked fine until I pulled the connections going into the heads and the thing just fell apart. Thank you very much Gclasse! Great write up and pics.
Its scary goin that deep, but the DIYs on this site are a life saver, not to mention saving thousands of dollars. But most importantly the bragging rights for pretending to be a Porsche mechanic. Long may you run...
Its scary goin that deep, but the DIYs on this site are a life saver, not to mention saving thousands of dollars. But most importantly the bragging rights for pretending to be a Porsche mechanic. Long may you run...
Ha! they drove me crazy too. I found a youtube on how to do them. squeeze the blue buttons.
Thank you everyone for the great information!
I have a 2017 GTS with 57k miles and I'm going to replace the pipe proactively. There have been several posts about catastrophic failure after 40k miles and I want to get ahead of this maintenance item.
Questions:
I have a 2017 GTS with 57k miles and I'm going to replace the pipe proactively. There have been several posts about catastrophic failure after 40k miles and I want to get ahead of this maintenance item.
Questions:
- Can I drain just a small amount of coolant to drop the coolant level below the pipe?
- I do not have a vacuum system for removing trapped air from the cooling system - can I just top up the system with the (hopefully) small amount of coolant that is drained?
- If I must get a vacuum system, what do I buy?
- There have been questions about cleaning the intake valves while the manifold is off - what is the procedure? Can I use a spray cleaner or do I need to walnut blast if they are dirty?
I cannot thank you all enough for this thread. Kaybee, your writeup is excellent! I have two questions for those of you who have tackled this repair on your own:
1) Torque specs. I know that this has been asked, but does anyone have access to the torque specs for reassembly, particularly the intake manifold? Also, I plan on tightening down in a star pattern - any reason why I shouldn't?
2) Is replacing the intake manifold gasket vital? I picked up the new Y pipe (honestly, not too bad - $90ish bucks at my local dealership here in Houston) but I neglected to buy new gaskets for the intake manifold. My only window to tackle this DIY is today right after buttoning up my time at the day-job so I need to run back to the dealership and pay up for the gaskets if I'm going to need them.
Thank you in advance!
1) Torque specs. I know that this has been asked, but does anyone have access to the torque specs for reassembly, particularly the intake manifold? Also, I plan on tightening down in a star pattern - any reason why I shouldn't?
2) Is replacing the intake manifold gasket vital? I picked up the new Y pipe (honestly, not too bad - $90ish bucks at my local dealership here in Houston) but I neglected to buy new gaskets for the intake manifold. My only window to tackle this DIY is today right after buttoning up my time at the day-job so I need to run back to the dealership and pay up for the gaskets if I'm going to need them.
Thank you in advance!
If you find the torque spec, please post. Thanks!
Thank you! If that's accurate I definitely over torqued mine (I used 11 ftlb)
I did this job last night and learned a few things.
1) Our 2017 S is just over 7.5 years old (we built it to spec and took delivery in March of 2016 weird though that may be) but has just under 40K miles on it. That kind of low mileage city driving has resulted in serious carbon build up (some of the worst I've seen but I don't get to look inside of many direct injection engines). I should have budgeted time for carbon removal while I had the intake manifold off.
2) The job requires a LOT of light. It's doable with one set of hands, but there are a couple of points where two sets of hands are valuable. If nothing else, bring a handful of zip ties to keep things out of the way as was mentioned earlier by another poster. The bolt behind the wiring harness at the rear of the engine bay is a no-joke nightmare.
3) The green plastic bracket that holds the back of the Y pipe down is another nightmare. It really, really does not want to let the Y Pipe go free. You will save ourself a lot of time and frustration if you cut the Y pipe right at the ridge just forward of that bracket so that you can slide it out (towards the back) before removing it from the rubber hose it slides into. I don't have pictures for an example, but you'll know it when you see it.
1) Our 2017 S is just over 7.5 years old (we built it to spec and took delivery in March of 2016 weird though that may be) but has just under 40K miles on it. That kind of low mileage city driving has resulted in serious carbon build up (some of the worst I've seen but I don't get to look inside of many direct injection engines). I should have budgeted time for carbon removal while I had the intake manifold off.
2) The job requires a LOT of light. It's doable with one set of hands, but there are a couple of points where two sets of hands are valuable. If nothing else, bring a handful of zip ties to keep things out of the way as was mentioned earlier by another poster. The bolt behind the wiring harness at the rear of the engine bay is a no-joke nightmare.
3) The green plastic bracket that holds the back of the Y pipe down is another nightmare. It really, really does not want to let the Y Pipe go free. You will save ourself a lot of time and frustration if you cut the Y pipe right at the ridge just forward of that bracket so that you can slide it out (towards the back) before removing it from the rubber hose it slides into. I don't have pictures for an example, but you'll know it when you see it.
Thank you for the excellent info. Did you clean the carbon? Walnut blast? Can you confirm that torque spec for the manifold to head bolts?
Did you replace the manifold gaskets? I have chosen to replace them and that seems to be skipped over in every post/video I've seen.
Apologies - did not catch your 11 ft/lb torque that you used. As long as you did not strip any alloy threads in the head it will be good. Did you use any sort of thread locker?
Just completed the coolant pipe project as a preventative measure at 57k miles. The old pipe was perfectly functional, however the sections near the front of the engine that plug into the heads were very brittle and snapped easily.
The whole project took me 5.5 hours, moving very carefully. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets when reassembling. Make certain to replace the manifold gaskets. The new ones were notably taller, about .6-.7mm than the old ones that were compressed and a little stiff with age.
Overall, very satisfied with the project. Parts were about $210 total 😀
The whole project took me 5.5 hours, moving very carefully. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets when reassembling. Make certain to replace the manifold gaskets. The new ones were notably taller, about .6-.7mm than the old ones that were compressed and a little stiff with age.
Overall, very satisfied with the project. Parts were about $210 total 😀
My 2017 GTS is at 93,000 miles, and it appears this "hose" just blew today. Coolant all over the street, and I had to get flatbedded home. I'm in Central florida, I do a ton of DIY, but just not sure I want to tackle this myself.
It's really not that bad. There's just a bunch of plumbing and sensors/connectors in the way. The only challenging part is the bolt behind the large rectangular rubber electrical connector, and getting enough slack on the hose from the firewall side to insert the new hose and get the clamp on. Happy to chat about it since I just did it. Feel free to PM me.
Check these videos -
Check these videos -
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