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1 - Remove Bolts from Engine Wiring Harness, 2X, (Note. there is one on the Passenger side and one behind the Harness, towards the firewall). this will allow to lift the plastic wiring harness piece.
2 - Proceed to remove the Coolant Line from the Engine Cylinder Head and from the hose locate behind the wiring Harness.
Thanks. Great write up and pics. Do you have a complete parts list for this project? Thanks for the hose part number. My 2015 Macan S has had a whiff of coolant for years. Also, recommended intake valve cleaning procedure? Anything else you'd recommend doing while I'm in this deep? Someone mentioned a bleeder valve when refilling. Where's that? It took a couple of days for me to get the coolant level right when I changed it last time...
 
I really appreciate this DIY and everything in this forum. I'm at an impasse on this DIY. Could someone please tell me how to remove these fuel lines? Please see the below images. Does this blue tab come out or get pushed in. I've tried both and neither seems to be doing the trick.
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I've been smelling strong Anitfreeze when I pull into the garage but can't seem to find it. But my reservoir isn't going down and don't see any visual leaks. I looked at the upper part of this little hose and looks fine. Kinda stumped.
Thinking it's boiling/evap off somewhere. Radiator??

Dave T.
 
I just had a catastrophic failure of this line and the car is at the shop. They are saying $1500 to repair. If the dealer quoted only $550, $1500 sounds like a total rip off! Wondering if I should just tow the car home and repair it myself...

Edit: Read through the thread and $1500 sounds reasonable, considering I am in a high cost area when it comes to mechanic labor.
 
I've been smelling strong Anitfreeze when I pull into the garage but can't seem to find it. But my reservoir isn't going down and don't see any visual leaks. I looked at the upper part of this little hose and looks fine. Kinda stumped.
Thinking it's boiling/evap off somewhere. Radiator??
I had the same problem. Sometimes I didn't see any coolant loss and sometimes I was losing coolant very slowly. This hose ended up bursting and I had to get the vehicle towed.
 
I just had a catastrophic failure of this line and the car is at the shop. They are saying $1500 to repair. If the dealer quoted only $550, $1500 sounds like a total rip off! Wondering if I should just tow the car home and repair it myself...

Edit: Read through the thread and $1500 sounds reasonable, considering I am in a high cost area when it comes to mechanic labor.
This job took me 6 hours, start to finish with cleanup, and about $200 in parts. $1,500 doesn’t sound bad.
 
I just had a catastrophic failure of this line and the car is at the shop. They are saying $1500 to repair. If the dealer quoted only $550, $1500 sounds like a total rip off! Wondering if I should just tow the car home and repair it myself...

Edit: Read through the thread and $1500 sounds reasonable, considering I am in a high cost area when it comes to mechanic labor.
This is an amazing deal. I just did this in my garage and the guy that created the DIY is an amazing human. This was much more difficult than I thought it was going to be. I’d give this a level of 10 out of 10 for complexity of a DIY.
*Some dealers charge as much as $3000 dollar for this repair. If I had to do it all over again I would have spent $1500 all day long.
 
Did anyone end up replacing other hoses while they were in there? I am going to ask my mechanic to check all the other coolant lines while they have the intake manifold off.
 
Did anyone end up replacing other hoses while they were in there? I am going to ask my mechanic to check all the other coolant lines while they have the intake manifold off.
There’s quite a few hoses there. Some are rubber and those shouldn’t be a problem, but some are made out of the same brittle plastic as the coolant return line. Time will tell.
 
There’s quite a few hoses there. Some are rubber and those shouldn’t be a problem, but some are made out of the same brittle plastic as the coolant return line. Time will tell.
The only other thing I replaced was the intake manifold gaskets when I did mine. There are 6 of them. One for each intake hole. If I remember correctly they were $33 dollars a piece. But I didn’t not replace any other lines.
 
I spoke with the mechanic again, he says this is a very common problem with the Macans. Probably something for buyers of used Macans to be aware of, that this should probably be replaced proactively. It sounds like it's just not the right material for that location and will ultimately degrade over time. I wonder what a good interval would be? Mine has 93,000 miles.
 
Mine is 121,000 miles and I have had no issues. However, I do have the tubing on-hand as well as all gaskets and o-rings for intake manifold… and once I get down there, I’ll be replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pumps as well.
I concur, I have 99,000 miles on mine and will do the same thing. Thanks for the the advice.
 
Did anyone notice the intake manifold warping between the runners? I'm not sure if they were originally cast like this but they certainly look wavy to the point where if you didn't replace the seals, the warpage could cause uneven sealing. It looks like the last dealer who did mine didn't replace the seals as the seals look to be in poor shape versus the date of the hose replacement.
 
How long did it take you and and what was the most difficult part of the job?
Thanks
I'm not sure how long it took, but was in garage for 3 days and going back and forth, maybe 10 hours working on it? Following the instructions in the original post helps a lot. The hardest part is the connection behind the cover close to the firewall, take out the tower brace bars to give you more room to connect the pipe back in. I didn't torque any bolts. It's still working and no leaks so far. saved about $1300 labor since dealer quoted over $1500 for the job. The hose only cost around $100
 
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