Mine is 121,000 miles and I have had no issues. However, I do have the tubing on-hand as well as all gaskets and o-rings for intake manifold… and once I get down there, I’ll be replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pumps as well.

 

I concur, I have 99,000 miles on mine and will do the same thing. Thanks for the the advice.

 

Did anyone notice the intake manifold warping between the runners? I'm not sure if they were originally cast like this but they certainly look wavy to the point where if you didn't replace the seals, the warpage could cause uneven sealing. It looks like the last dealer who did mine didn't replace the seals as the seals look to be in poor shape versus the date of the hose replacement.

 

Coolant hose exploded and splashed everywhere on engine. Stuck at home and decided to do the replacement myself with help of forum posts. Saved $1500

 

How long did it take you and and what was the most difficult part of the job?
Thanks

 

thanks so much….

 

Thanks for this write-up. Just performed what seemed like open heart surgery myself, and it was actually not too bad. The toughest and longest part was the removal of the old hose by the firewall (make sure you take out the 2 screws that hold the wiring in place…extensions FTW and get a good pair of locking pliers to hold on to the clamp).

Parts (new hose and intake manifold gaskets which i ended up not using): EURO 160
Time: 4 hours
Indy quote: EURO 1400
Feeling like a superhero: Priceless
boy was that hose brittle

 

Thanks for this write-up. Just performed what seemed like open heart surgery myself, and it was actually not too bad. The toughest and longest part was the removal of the old hose by the firewall (make sure you take out the 2 screws that hold the wiring in place…extensions FTW and get a good pair of locking pliers to hold on to the clamp).

Parts (new hose and intake manifold gaskets which i ended up not using): EURO 160
Time: 4 hours
Indy quote: EURO 1400
Feeling like a superhero: Priceless
boy was that hose brittle

View attachment 267373

Tell me about adding back the coolant process?

 

Will be using a vacuum system with a manometer (similar to the airlift system, but without the venturi valve so you need a vacuum pump iso a compressor). I'll add to this post when done.

 

Ok. Filled coolant back using compressor and something similar to the airlift system. Was not able to get the old coolant out fully, but filling was a breeze.

Note: my car had a very rough idle during the firstdrive and would keep revving up erratically. I read elsewhere that the throttle body needs to be reset after removal. Can anyone confirm this?

 

Yikes! Turns out I forgot to tighten the 8 intake manifold screws….😕

 

about 8 years in and 77k miles on the car, came here because just had this issue happen on my car.

Bay Area dealer quoted me $2,800 for the job... I love how they refer to the part... Well maybe Porsche shouldn't have used a small plastic piece of **** in the first place

 

about 8 years in and 77k miles on the car, came here because just had this issue happen on my car.

Bay Area dealer quoted me $2,800 for the job... I love how they refer to the part... Well maybe Porsche shouldn't have used a small plastic piece of **** in the first place

View attachment 268870

I would find a reputable independent Porsche shop. I just saw someone on here today that paid $1,200 for the same fix.

 

Where about are you guys located? Spoke with the dealer on the phone, $2300 labour, and $400+change for parts lol.

I work in tech and assuming it takes 10 hours as stated by DIY folks on this forum, thats $230/hr which is more than my hourly

 

It took me six hours start to finish. I took my time also to make sure everything was done well.

 

I go by feel on the torque because nothing was to critical. I do like using blue locktite because it keeps the threads from corroding.

Clear all the debris before removing parts and thoroughly clean parts before reassembly. Stuff shop rags in the intake ports to keep any debris from falling in there. Make sure you have a good assortment of extensions.
Buy a package of zipties too.

 

I don’t know if there’s any benefit in doing it proactively. It doesn’t just fail catastrophically, causing engine damage; it just starts leaking. I would buy the parts proactively, in order to get the best price on them, and to make sure they’re readily available for when it does need to be done.
That’s just my point of view.

 

It happened three weeks into my ownership of the car that passed a PPI, it went catastrophically after a 10min drive, it overheated and dash said to pull over immediately. Luckily I just gotten back to my garage when this happened. 10min prior, I smelled no coolant (and I am good at sniffing that!). At 100k, was that the first time this part was replaced on your turbo @marc_hanna? And what yr is ur turbo?

 

Just had the coolant line under the intake manifold break on my 2015 Macan Turbo.
I noticed smoke and then engine temp shot to 250*F. Managed to pull over immediately and top off. A few hours later, once cooled, I dropped it off at my local Euro shop in ATL.
Was quoted $1500 after taxes (80% services), and got my car back the next morning.

 

For anyone doing this in the future the bolts to hold the wiring harness at 2 8mm bolts. The space is extremely narrow and I had to use 1/4" sockets its so tight. One of the bolts is at the 9 oclock position and the second is at the 1130 oclock position--youll see a tower of harnesesses/plugs on the back towards the firewall. I tried to gently push them back to unclip them but the brittle plastic clips snapped instantly. Then youll be able to see the rear screw.

 

Here's a picture

 

I'll have to admit that now having changed this hose I can understand why they charge around 2k. Lots of tight spaces, tedious, busted knuckles.

 

I second that emotion. But got it done. I thought it was a dick-mission. The hose looked fine until I pulled the connections going into the heads and the thing just fell apart. Thank you very much Gclasse! Great write up and pics.
Its scary goin that deep, but the DIYs on this site are a life saver, not to mention saving thousands of dollars. But most importantly the bragging rights for pretending to be a Porsche mechanic. Long may you run...

 

Bought a used 2015 Macan S a few ago. Had this issue a week later. Thought it would be covered under the used car warrantee, but it was not. They consider the hose on expendable. Anyway this repair cost me $1262.45 with labor and parts...

 

Thank you everyone for the great information!

I have a 2017 GTS with 57k miles and I'm going to replace the pipe proactively. There have been several posts about catastrophic failure after 40k miles and I want to get ahead of this maintenance item.

Questions:

• Can I drain just a small amount of coolant to drop the coolant level below the pipe?
• I do not have a vacuum system for removing trapped air from the cooling system - can I just top up the system with the (hopefully) small amount of coolant that is drained?
• If I must get a vacuum system, what do I buy?
• There have been questions about cleaning the intake valves while the manifold is off - what is the procedure? Can I use a spray cleaner or do I need to walnut blast if they are dirty?

Thanks for all the help!

 

I cannot thank you all enough for this thread. Kaybee, your writeup is excellent! I have two questions for those of you who have tackled this repair on your own:

1) Torque specs. I know that this has been asked, but does anyone have access to the torque specs for reassembly, particularly the intake manifold? Also, I plan on tightening down in a star pattern - any reason why I shouldn't?
2) Is replacing the intake manifold gasket vital? I picked up the new Y pipe (honestly, not too bad - $90ish bucks at my local dealership here in Houston) but I neglected to buy new gaskets for the intake manifold. My only window to tackle this DIY is today right after buttoning up my time at the day-job so I need to run back to the dealership and pay up for the gaskets if I'm going to need them.

Thank you in advance!

 

If you find the torque spec, please post. Thanks!

 

I am about to do the coolant pipe replacement too. I do not see the torque value in the service manual. Anyone have the torque spec? Also- can you refer me to the correct page in the service manual? THANKS!

 

OK - so far the info that I've found points to Porsche possibly calling the intake manifold an intake-air distributor:

And then the service manual states:

I cannot verify the torque. And this may be a reference point to follow up on.

 

Thank you! If that's accurate I definitely over torqued mine (I used 11 ftlb)

 

I did this job last night and learned a few things.

1) Our 2017 S is just over 7.5 years old (we built it to spec and took delivery in March of 2016 weird though that may be) but has just under 40K miles on it. That kind of low mileage city driving has resulted in serious carbon build up (some of the worst I've seen but I don't get to look inside of many direct injection engines). I should have budgeted time for carbon removal while I had the intake manifold off.

2) The job requires a LOT of light. It's doable with one set of hands, but there are a couple of points where two sets of hands are valuable. If nothing else, bring a handful of zip ties to keep things out of the way as was mentioned earlier by another poster. The bolt behind the wiring harness at the rear of the engine bay is a no-joke nightmare.

3) The green plastic bracket that holds the back of the Y pipe down is another nightmare. It really, really does not want to let the Y Pipe go free. You will save ourself a lot of time and frustration if you cut the Y pipe right at the ridge just forward of that bracket so that you can slide it out (towards the back) before removing it from the rubber hose it slides into. I don't have pictures for an example, but you'll know it when you see it.

 

I did this job last night and learned a few things.

1) Our 2017 S is just over 7.5 years old (we built it to spec and took delivery in March of 2016 weird though that may be) but has just under 40K miles on it. That kind of low mileage city driving has resulted in serious carbon build up (some of the worst I've seen but I don't get to look inside of many direct injection engines). I should have budgeted time for carbon removal while I had the intake manifold off.

2) The job requires a LOT of light. It's doable with one set of hands, but there are a couple of points where two sets of hands are valuable. If nothing else, bring a handful of zip ties to keep things out of the way as was mentioned earlier by another poster. The bolt behind the wiring harness at the rear of the engine bay is a no-joke nightmare.

3) The green plastic bracket that holds the back of the Y pipe down is another nightmare. It really, really does not want to let the Y Pipe go free. You will save ourself a lot of time and frustration if you cut the Y pipe right at the ridge just forward of that bracket so that you can slide it out (towards the back) before removing it from the rubber hose it slides into. I don't have pictures for an example, but you'll know it when you see it.

Thank you for the excellent info. Did you clean the carbon? Walnut blast? Can you confirm that torque spec for the manifold to head bolts?

Did you replace the manifold gaskets? I have chosen to replace them and that seems to be skipped over in every post/video I've seen.

Apologies - did not catch your 11 ft/lb torque that you used. As long as you did not strip any alloy threads in the head it will be good. Did you use any sort of thread locker?

 

Just completed the coolant pipe project as a preventative measure at 57k miles. The old pipe was perfectly functional, however the sections near the front of the engine that plug into the heads were very brittle and snapped easily.

The whole project took me 5.5 hours, moving very carefully. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets when reassembling. Make certain to replace the manifold gaskets. The new ones were notably taller, about .6-.7mm than the old ones that were compressed and a little stiff with age.

Overall, very satisfied with the project. Parts were about $210 total 😀

 

It's really not that bad. There's just a bunch of plumbing and sensors/connectors in the way. The only challenging part is the bolt behind the large rectangular rubber electrical connector, and getting enough slack on the hose from the firewall side to insert the new hose and get the clamp on. Happy to chat about it since I just did it. Feel free to PM me.

Check these videos -