Just had this done and it was $1,300- ouch.

 

AND now my reduce engine power light is on and I have no turbo boost.

 

Started this today. Any advice on getting the back end of the pipe off? I've reached the end of the steps, but the harness box dosent lift up very far and I can't really get to the spring clamp holding the end.

 

Did you get the back end of pipe off and if so how?
How long should I expect to replace?
Thanks, doing it this weekend.

 

Done, this was the hardest DIY car project I've done. Probably 6 hours to just replace the tube. But I had to pick at my valves and loosen up some Carbon, which involved pulling the plugs and scoping the engine so i put probably 10 hours into it, 150 for the part and coolant, and a week of stress. If you paid less than 1k for this, you won.
Don't forget to pop your coolant bleeder valve open when you fill it up at the end and leave it open for your first runs. The metal clip/switch falls down when pressure equalizes.
Also if you try to carbon clean, roll the car out of the garage before restart like my wife recommended. Ive spent my morning mopping the garage from the soot.

 

Done, this was the hardest DIY car project I've done. Probably 6 hours to just replace the tube. But I had to pick at my valves and loosen up some Carbon, which involved pulling the plugs and scoping the engine so i put probably 10 hours into it, 150 for the part and coolant, and a week of stress. If you paid less than 1k for this, you won.
Don't forget to pop your coolant bleeder valve open when you fill it up at the end and leave it open for your first runs. The metal clip/switch falls down when pressure equalizes.
Also if you try to carbon clean, roll the car out of the garage before restart like my wife recommended. Ive spent my morning mopping the garage from the soot.

So, over the past two weeks, coolant has been mysteriously disappearing from my coolant tank until the point the other day where it became more than just adding a splash of coolant every couple days.

I took it into my Indy, and mentioned this specific issue. Sure enough, that’s my problem.

I just got the call from my Indy - they want $1023 (tax included) to replace the hose, a cracked “cross pipe”, and new gaskets. I debated sound this repair myself. Reading this exact post is what made me commit to having the Indy do the job.

I’m definitely a DIYer and always happy to save a couple bucks when available, but after reading this, I think this one is best left to the pros. Especially considering I need it done for a 600mi road trip in the next 48 hours.

 

The fuel rails are a one time use, did you replace those as well?

 

I did not, and I am not worried about them, all solid metal and its pretty easy to tell if they fit back together well. Not even sure about the one time use claim since Porsche recommends replacing the low pressure line from the tank, not the high pressure rail lines when they replace the high pressure pumps.

 

Reading these posts it sounds like the failure of this hose is not an IF...it's a WHEN, and it will eventually happen to everyone anywhere beyond 40K miles/4 years. Do folks think I'm right?

 

I tend to agree with your thoughts.

But there are conditions that will accelerate / decelerate this failure mode. I don’t know what these conditions are, but we could speculate.

Failure mode is normally that tubing becomes brittle and fractures… what can cause that? Is it the water/antifreeze? Or is it exposure to a non-compatible substance, that combined with high temperature cause this condition? Is Porsche (or the supplier) using different sources of material build this tubing?

The variability in failure timing is just too high, and is not a one off (a few folks experiencing this at a very broad mileage range), which tells me that there may be something related to the material of construction itself, but maybe related to specific production batches. This is all speculation, lacking scientific / engineering data on this.

In my case, my Macan has 115K miles and north of 7 years with no failure on this specific component (although I already had a failure on thermostat)…

 

Does anyone happened to have Porsche instruction for this hose replacement. I'm interested on the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts and any others that may be needed.

 

Add me to the list, I'm just so glad it's not a head gasket. So a few questions to those that have done it. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? 2015 Macan Turbo, about 75,000 miles. Plugs were changed according to carfax (Previous owner) at the 60k mile service in 2019 by a Porsche dealer. Apparently the 70k mile service was also performed by a Porsche dealer in October of 2020. I'm guessing the intake valves should be cleaned, are y'all just spraying them with berrymans or equivalent and then allowing it to evaporate? Or walnut blast, or something else?

I don't see any record of the trans fluid change. Should it be changed? I'm changing the oil and sending it to blackstone for analysis. I don't drive a lot (Obviously) so I know she doesn't get to burn off residual fuel all that much, so I want to see what kind of fuel dilution I'm getting at 6 months of use.

Lastly, this might sound a bit improper on a Porsche forum, but I'll throw it out there anyway. Has anyone considered replacing the plastic tube with a regular old rubber hose and brass tee fitting? I had another non Porsche where the plastic wye cracked, so I replaced with regular rubber hoses and a brass tee fitting, and I'm sure it will outlast the rest of the plastic lines.

Thanks everyone!

 

Looks like this just hit me yesterday. 2015 Macan S, 40k miles. I'm not exactly sure it's the same issue but I did find a crack on the passenger side so highly suspect it is.



I am no mechanic and sit in front of a computer all day. Considering if I should DIY this or ask a mechanic for help. Any suggestions for other brittle parts to replace while it's apart?

 

For those that have had this problem, is that where it usually initially cracks (at the front connection)?

 

Started this on the weekend. Got the manifold removed in an hour going slowly. Part 2 seems tricky.

One thing I noticed is that fuel squirts out when you open any doors. Wrap those lines with some rags.

Is it recommended to get new gaskets for the intake? How about o-rings on the crankcase vent valves?

 

One thing I noticed is that fuel squirts out when you open any doors. Wrap those lines with some rags.

You should be able to pull the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the battery ground to prevent this. One trick I've used when working on the fuel system in the past is to pull the fuse to the fuel pump, then crank the engine to get as much fuel out of the lines as possible before disconnecting any of it.

 

Had a covid break, back at it. Stuck on that last screw behind the harness near the fire wall. I can't even see it. Any tips?

 

I was able to release the spring clamp back there using long pliers and swap the hose without removing that bolt.

Get new gaskets for the intake. Be careful they don't shift or fall out when replacing the intake.

 

Hello guys.
im about to preform this job, and would like to depressurize the fuel system before removing the fuel line. I cannot find any information in the fuses diagram regarding the location of the fuse pump relay or fuse.
any help will be appreciated.

 

Hello guys.
im about to preform this job, and would like to depressurize the fuel system before removing the fuel line. I cannot find any information in the fuses diagram regarding the location of the fuse pump relay or fuse.
any help will be appreciated.

No need to depressurize the fuel system. I didn’t pull any fuses or disconnect the battery.

 

I just performed this job today. What a pain in the butt for a silly little hose.

 

Finished this today. What a journey. Not sure I would have started this if I knew everything life was going to throw at me at the same time

Anyway, I followed @ENGIN3RD and was able to squeeze the clamp at the back to pull the old/insert the new line. Needed a set of extra hands to do that part.

The line and new gaskets cost me close to $400 CAD.

Learned a lot about my car

 

My parts came to $266CAD all in. I ordered from Pelican Parts. The price was good, but it took over a month to arrive.

 

if I knew it would take me so long


If I knew it would take me so long, I would have bought from them and save me a few bucks! 😅

 

Hello just found this about the high pressure fuel lines, one time use only.

 

A lot of manufacturers state that with high-pressure fuel rails. I don't know that anyone except for the dealers actually follow that guideline.

 

I just finished this repair on my 2016 Macan S. Super nice instructions, very clear. Couldn't have done it in such a short time withouth this.
I managed to do this withouth removing as many parts as Gclasse, meaning I did not remove some of the parts in his 2nd and 3rd picture but it took some creative effort to put in the new line .
Great documentation Gclasse!!!

 

On first pic, how are the plugs on the metal round domes on top of the valve covers come off? I pinched the clip but they are very stubborn and won't slip off. Pull real hard?

 

Looks like the high-pressure fuel pump. Why do you want to mess with it? Just curious. And make sure you don't damage anything on its locking mechanism, since you don't want that thing to come off while driving. Those things get over 1K psi of pressure (which is a crapload), so be careful. You might need to depressurize the line first. Good luck.

 

not the silver thing, just the hose that leads to it. You have to pull those hoses off to remove the manifold for this fix.

 

nevermind, i got them off. now the intake is being stubborn.

 

I really appreciate this DIY and everything in this forum. I'm at an impasse on this DIY. Could someone please tell me how to remove these fuel lines? Please see the below images. Does this blue tab come out or get pushed in. I've tried both and neither seems to be doing the trick.

 

I really appreciate this DIY and everything in this forum. I'm at an impasse on this DIY. Could someone please tell me how to remove these fuel lines? Please see the below images. Does this blue tab come out or get pushed in. I've tried both and neither seems to be doing the trick. View attachment 264012 View attachment 264013

push in

 

I've been smelling strong Anitfreeze when I pull into the garage but can't seem to find it. But my reservoir isn't going down and don't see any visual leaks. I looked at the upper part of this little hose and looks fine. Kinda stumped.
Thinking it's boiling/evap off somewhere. Radiator??

Dave T.

 

I've been smelling strong Anitfreeze when I pull into the garage but can't seem to find it. But my reservoir isn't going down and don't see any visual leaks. I looked at the upper part of this little hose and looks fine. Kinda stumped.
Thinking it's boiling/evap off somewhere. Radiator??

I had the same problem. Sometimes I didn't see any coolant loss and sometimes I was losing coolant very slowly. This hose ended up bursting and I had to get the vehicle towed.

 

I just had a catastrophic failure of this line and the car is at the shop. They are saying $1500 to repair. If the dealer quoted only $550, $1500 sounds like a total rip off! Wondering if I should just tow the car home and repair it myself...

Edit: Read through the thread and $1500 sounds reasonable, considering I am in a high cost area when it comes to mechanic labor.

 

This job took me 6 hours, start to finish with cleanup, and about $200 in parts. $1,500 doesn’t sound bad.

 

Did anyone end up replacing other hoses while they were in there? I am going to ask my mechanic to check all the other coolant lines while they have the intake manifold off.

 

There’s quite a few hoses there. Some are rubber and those shouldn’t be a problem, but some are made out of the same brittle plastic as the coolant return line. Time will tell.

 

I spoke with the mechanic again, he says this is a very common problem with the Macans. Probably something for buyers of used Macans to be aware of, that this should probably be replaced proactively. It sounds like it's just not the right material for that location and will ultimately degrade over time. I wonder what a good interval would be? Mine has 93,000 miles.

 

My 2017 GTS is at 93,000 miles, and it appears this "hose" just blew today. Coolant all over the street, and I had to get flatbedded home. I'm in Central florida, I do a ton of DIY, but just not sure I want to tackle this myself.