[Santirx]

METAL VENT PIPE/TUBE UPGRADE (STAINLESS STEEL) - CAYENNE (957/958)

Introducing the Eurowise Metal Vent Pipe Upgrade for the 957 Porsche Cayenne – the ultimate solution to the nagging issues posed by the original plastic vent pipe. Designed to address the inherent weaknesses of the OEM part. The 957 Porsche Cayenne's original vent pipe, made from plastic, has...

shop.eurowise.com

Not sure if anyone else has run across this stainless replacement source. A bit pricey but a once and done solution as well.

This is not the same. We have not found a solution like this for the Macan. As posted earlier, I gave the fitting design to @RADHAUS and they are working on a solution for our Macan that will include aluminum fitting.

 

[Neil]

Wow from Australia, what a fantastic detailed thread, so much info, feel like I could do it myself. If only I had a garage instead of a car port. Hoping my local workshop will oblige. My Macan is 2017 with 120K kilometers. Never had an issue, but yes got the red warning yesterday. Refilled cooland and made it home, 200ks With minimal leakage, and watching temp. Then today did it again, and found coolant in underbody tray. Don’t want to fix with original Crap. Hope my mechanic will read all this info and be able to source parts. Could be off the road for a while. As you advised will buy the OEM part to get new fittings. Looks like I will be riding my Hypermotard Ducati more for now, being Christmas and all. Wish that new part was available.

 

[Neil]

Wow from Australia, what a fantastic detailed thread, so much info, feel like I could do it myself. If only I had a garage instead of a car port. Hoping my local workshop will oblige. My Macan is 2017 with 120K kilometers. Never had an issue, but yes got the red warning yesterday. Refilled cooland and made it home, 200ks With minimal leakage, and watching temp. Then today did it again, and found coolant in underbody tray. Don’t want to fix with original Crap. Hope my mechanic will read all this info and be able to source parts. Could be off the road for a while. As you advised will buy the OEM part to get new fittings. Looks like I will be riding my Hypermotard Ducati more for now, being Christmas and all. Wish that new part was available.

Neil here again. Thinking might be best to use new OEM pipe and put new silicon tubing from T junction to bleeder connection. This should be simple, no parts to make up. Wonder if new pipe from T connecter is flexible enough to rout directly to bleeder. How easy would that be. Anyone let me know if this is flexible. Or is this a bad idea. Probably last 100K or more and easy to replace again if needed in 5 years time.

 

[Santirx]

Neil here again. Thinking might be best to use new OEM pipe and put new silicon tubing from T junction to bleeder connection. This should be simple, no parts to make up. Wonder if new pipe from T connecter is flexible enough to rout directly to bleeder. How easy would that be. Anyone let me know if this is flexible. Or is this a bad idea. Probably last 100K or more and easy to replace again if needed in 5 years time.

I’m not sure what you mean when you ask if “new pipe is flexible enough to route directly to vent valve”. What I can say is, you could theoretically use the “U” shape tubing that connects both vents to the “T” and then come out with a hose from there to the vent valve only is you are able to rotate the “T” towards the front, but that is a risky proposition as it will not be easy to re-seal it because the tubing is rigid. Not sure if there is enough space to do this with “T” facing backwards.. and no, as I said, the original tubing is quite rigid so no possible way to route directly to the vent valve.

 

[TCP2]

Neil here again. Thinking might be best to use new OEM pipe and put new silicon tubing from T junction to bleeder connection. This should be simple, no parts to make up. Wonder if new pipe from T connecter is flexible enough to rout directly to bleeder. How easy would that be. Anyone let me know if this is flexible. Or is this a bad idea. Probably last 100K or more and easy to replace again if needed in 5 years time.

The material from the fittings to the T is still the crappy hard plastic that degrades over time. I could actually rotate the T fitting on a couple of new hoses without any real problem so it faces forward, but the silicone high temperature hose should age better than the plastic regardless.

 

[Sandpebble]

The material from the fittings to the T is still the crappy hard plastic that degrades over time. I could actually rotate the T fitting on a couple of new hoses without any real problem so it faces forward, but the silicone high temperature hose should age better than the plastic regardless.

I just finished changing mine (leakage was from a split just above the left-side barb fitting). I found that the material in the two T branches was completely embrittled, but the long run from the T junction to the back of the engine remained tough and flexible. Must be different materials in the two sections (?). Perhaps that offers some hope for an easier modification. Maybe only the front branches need to be replaced next time.

 

[Delman1012]

My ‘17 GTS with 96k miles (only 1yr and 3k miles so far under my ownership) dumped its coolant due to a split vent tube just above the driver’s side fitting. I learned about this issue while waiting for the tow truck. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and especially Santirx‘s Youtube video (now subscribed to his channel), I made the repair using the modified routing method with silicone hose.

The HPS 1/4” ID silicone heater hose Santirx recommended is great and what I used, but it might be out of stock on Amazon now. Get at least 5ft.

Here is a list of the other items I purchased from Amazon:
-Podavelle 1/4” 6mm Hose Barb Tee T Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black
-Seept 75Pcs 8 Sizes 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps 6-23.5mm Crimp Hose Clamps Assortment Kit
-Gearwrench CV Boot Clamp Tool - 3955
-Hazet 850-E10 Socket 1/4” Square Torx E10

I have not made enough posts on this forum to include direct links for these items, but will try to do so later.

I preferred an aluminum tee instead of stainless or bronze to avoid any galvanic issues with the mostly aluminum coolant system.
The Seept hose clamps are really nice quality and the Gearwrench tool worked perfect for crimping them.
My 3/8” drive socket was too large to fit between all the other nearby hoses and cables to undo the bolts on the old vent fittings, but the 1/4” Hazet E10 with a few 1/4” extensions fit easily.

Besides the (946-106-026-60) Engine Coolant Pipe, I purchased a few other items from my local dealer.

I didn’t want to reuse the existing 90deg angle quick connector at the bleeder valve, so I bought (95B-122-447-E) Overflow Hose from my dealer, carefully removed the 45deg angle quick connector, and used that instead. It also allowed better routing of the silicone hose. It is the same hose/fitting that connects the radiator to the upper port of the bleeder valve. I was not able to find the 45deg angle quick connector to purchase on its own unfortunately.

I replaced the throttle body gasket (948-110-144-02) with a new one. The old gasket was crushed to about half the thickness of the new one.

I purchased Porsche coolant (000-043-305-75) from my local dealer and diluted to 50/50 with distilled water from the supermarket. I only needed 1/2 gallon of each to refill my system. It was cheaper than buying premixed Zerex G40 from the local auto parts stores.

 

[Santirx]

My ‘17 GTS with 96k miles (only 1yr and 3k miles so far under my ownership) dumped its coolant due to a split vent tube just above the driver’s side fitting. I learned about this issue while waiting for the tow truck. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and especially Santrix‘s Youtube video (now subscribed to his channel), I made the repair using the modified routing method with silicone hose.

The HPS 1/4” ID silicone heater hose Santrix recommended is great and what I used, but it might be out of stock on Amazon now. Get at least 5ft.

Here is a list of the other items I purchased from Amazon:
-Podavelle 1/4” 6mm Hose Barb Tee T Fitting Adapter Aluminum Black
-Seept 75Pcs 8 Sizes 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps 6-23.5mm Crimp Hose Clamps Assortment Kit
-Gearwrench CV Boot Clamp Tool - 3955
-Hazet 850-E10 Socket 1/4” Square Torx E10

I have not made enough posts on this forum to include direct links for these items, but will try to do so later.

I preferred an aluminum tee instead of stainless or bronze to avoid any galvanic issues with the mostly aluminum coolant system.
The Seept hose clamps are really nice quality and the Gearwrench tool worked perfect for crimping them.
My 3/8” drive socket was too large to fit between all the other nearby hoses and cables to undo the bolts on the old vent fittings, but the 1/4” Hazet E10 with a few 1/4” extensions fit easily.

Besides the (946-106-026-60) Engine Coolant Pipe, I purchased a few other items from my local dealer.

I didn’t want to reuse the existing 90deg angle quick connector at the bleeder valve, so I bought (95B-122-447-E) Overflow Hose from my dealer, carefully removed the 45deg angle quick connector, and used that instead. It also allowed better routing of the silicone hose. It is the same hose/fitting that connects the radiator to the upper port of the bleeder valve. I was not able to find the 45deg angle quick connector to purchase on its own unfortunately.

I replaced the throttle body gasket (948-110-144-02) with a new one. The old gasket was crushed to about half the thickness of the new one.

I purchased Porsche coolant (000-043-305-75) from my local dealer and diluted to 50/50 with distilled water from the supermarket. I only needed 1/2 gallon of each to refill my system. It was cheaper than buying premixed Zerex G40 from the local auto parts stores.

Good to hear. Nice write up. Welcome to the forum!

 

[G3ARH3AD]

I did mine with the factory part - shoulda thought to just replace with hose. However, where the pipe connects behind electrical block near the fire wall, where does the breather circuit go after that? The tube I connected it to seems to drop down around the bell housing. Anyone know where it leads?

 

[Santirx]

I did mine with the factory part - shoulda thought to just replace with hose. However, where the pipe connects behind electrical block near the fire wall, where does the breather circuit go after that? The tube I connected it to seems to drop down around the bell housing. Anyone know where it leads?

See post 257 and 259. There isn’t anything else connected. This routes from the two vent locations in the front of engine to the vent valve attached to left filter housing.

 

[Jed88]

Did the “Santirx” mod on my daughters 17 S yesterday. 1 fitting came out in pieces and the tubing was extremely brittle. Easily crushed between my fingers. I used new “doner” fittings harvested from the new hose but I won’t trust them for more than a couple years. We need aluminum fittings stat! Hopefully this is being developed? Huge thank you to @Santirx for the 3d printed clamps which made it look factory.

Di

 

[Santirx]

Did the “Santirx” mod on my daughters 17 S yesterday. 1 fitting came out in pieces and the tubing was extremy brittle. Easily crushed between my fingers. I used new “doner” fittings harvested from the new hose but I won’t trust them for more than a couple years. We need aluminum fittings stat! Hopefully this is being developed? Huge thank you to @Santirx for the 3d printed clamps which made it look factory.
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Great to see! There is progress with aluminum fittings. Prototypes are being currently build and testing will commence soon. More on that soon.

 

[emdc888]

For a Porsche repair of that magnitude, $550 sounds like a bargain. Ever hear what some dealers charge for an oil change?

In Canada this costs from Porsche Centre $3263.67 -2018 Macan S with 54000 kilometers.

 

[Neil]

My Porsche dealer here in Melbourne Australia quoted AU $3000, that’s $4500 USD. So my mechanic is doing this fix but I’m getting him to run two hoses, so no t-joiner under the throttle body. The pipes will join up close to the bleeder valve. Easier to implement and less chance of leakage and if leaking I will see it. Anyway took the bash pan of and coolant and dirt everywhere on RHS above and below alternator. Wanted to see if water pump or thermostat are leaking. But no way to tell. Anyway should be fixed next week. Fingers crossed. Will report back. Great work team.

 

[Upwave]

Think you’ve got those dollars back to front

 

[Santirx]

My Porsche dealer here in Melbourne Australia quoted AU $3000, that’s $4500 USD. So my mechanic is doing this fix but I’m getting him to run two hoses, so no t-joiner under the throttle body. The pipes will join up close to the bleeder valve. Easier to implement and less chance of leakage and if leaking I will see it. Anyway took the bash pan of and coolant and dirt everywhere on RHS above and below alternator. Wanted to see if water pump or thermostat are leaking. But no way to tell. Anyway should be fixed next week. Fingers crossed. Will report back. Great work team.

Interesting approach…. Yes, this should work too… and you are correct, less joined parts in hard to access spaces…

 

[Jed88]

The aluminum fittings are key to this lasting any real length of time. Unfortunately this will be a 2 year maintenance item until then. I like the idea of routing the T closer to the Bleeder. So great to have creative ideas on fixing this issue.

 

[Dranon]

Having trouble removing throttle body! I removed the 4 bolts on each corner but it will not budge! What am I missing?

 

[Santirx]

Having trouble removing throttle body! I removed the 4 bolts on each corner but it will not budge! What am I missing?

If 4 bolts are removed, it should come out. Maybe is stuck… you just have to wiggle it until it comes lose. Maybe gasket is all degraded there. Hopefully you have a new one.

 

[Jed88]

Having trouble removing throttle body! I removed the 4 bolts on each corner but it will not budge! What am I missing?

There are two plastic locating pins that protrude from the plastic housing into the TB. Be sure to pull straight out until they are clear. Rubber sealing gasket might be what causing yours to stick. Try gently prying it.