Have a leaking hose that's under the intake. I'm losing coolant from it. Not sure if its the pencil-sized hose but does it really cost $550 for parts and labor? I'm assuming it more labor intensive to justify the cost. Macan turbo
Update: I don't drive the car regularly, but after about a week and ~100 miles, everything is acting normally. Whatever bubbles were in the system seem to have sorted itself out.This is odd. I do remember having a similar issue when I first changed the thermostat in my Macan and refilled with coolant using vacuum. The temperature in my initial test drives was swinging a lot (similar to what you describe), but the issue went away on its own after a few drives…
Not sure what to recommend. Maybe you should keep driving it as long as it is within range and keep close observation. Hopefully it will sort itself out.
As far as root cause, my thought was also bubbles in the system that were released on its own.
Have you actuated vent valve while car is on and at temperature? Maybe that will help.
1. YesThanks to everyone providing the great solution!
Wanted to reach out - 2015 Macan S with 55K mls. affected.
The fitting on the right side went bad and I got the 'low coolant - stop vehicle immediately'-message yesterday.
Couple of questions:
I appreciate your feedback!
- Does this tube do the job for all 3 hose parts (amazon: KDP 1/4"X5FT(ID:6MM) 1.5 M Silicone Heater Hose Coolant)?
- Do I need all hose clamps (amazon: AKIHISA 420Pcs 20 sizes Single Ear Hose Clamps)? Or: Which hose clamps exactly are needed?
- It was not clear to me with all feedback here: Do I need to buy a new hose for the fitments? In case yes: Is the original one needed or any replacement?
- Any recommendation for a mount clip to attach the new hose to the radiator hose?
replaced it today - new fitments were needed, one got completely broken.1. Yes
2. I forget which size but one of them is a pretty perfect fit.
3. technically no, you could re-use the existing hose adapters if they aren't broken but i don't think anyone recommends that. You might be introducing a new failure point to save a little bit of money.
One question remains: I filled up the coolant expansion tank when I got the message do „stop driving and refill coolant“. This first time I overfilled the MAX marking to be sure to make it home.replaced it today - new fitments were needed, one got completely broken.
Thanks to everyone for the great instructions!!
View attachment 290464
Most likely air in the system if you didn’t bleed the coolant after replacing the line.One question remains: I filled up the coolant expansion tank when I got the message do „stop driving and refill coolant“. After replacing the hose (DIY method) and the first test drive, I had to refill coolant again (about 1.25L). Then I drove another 30 minutes and had to refill coolant again (approx same amount). Today it was more stable and I only had to refill about 0.2L.
so total of about 2.7L refilled. Coolant temp does not exceed 200-degree F in any situation yet.
anything to be concerned about?
Air in the system?
refilling that amount of 2.7L after the 3-4 test drives?
thanks again!
No I didn’t bleed.Most likely air in the system if you didn’t bleed the coolant after replacing the line.
Continue to monitor, but will most likely level out after several days of driving. You can try to idle with heat on full blast to try to get it moving along.No I didn’t bleed.
So the air is now replaced by coolant and I should be fine?
I will monitor the coolant level & temp the next days closely …
Thank you!Continue to monitor, but will most likely level out after several days of driving. You can try to idle with heat on full blast to try to get it moving along.
Yeah, most likely some air that needed to get bled out. When I replaced my Y-pipe with this method, I had to top off twice also.One question remains: I filled up the coolant expansion tank when I got the message do „stop driving and refill coolant“. This first time I overfilled the MAX marking to be sure to make it home.
After replacing the hose (DIY method) and the first test drive, I had to refill coolant a 2nd time (about 1.25L) - to MAX. Then I drove another 30 minutes and had to refill coolant again 3rd time (approx same amount). Today it was more stable and I only had to refill about 0.2L to reach the MAX level.
so total of about 2.7L refilled. Coolant temp does not exceed 200-degree F in any situation yet.
anything to be concerned about?
Air in the system?
refilling that amount of 2.7L after the 3-4 test drives?
thanks again!
If you take a look at my coolant pump replacement video starting at minute 38:11 you’ll see the appropriate procedure by using vacuum to refill coolant without air with no need to bleed.Yeah, most likely some air that needed to get bled out. When I replaced my Y-pipe with this method, I had to top off twice also.
Is this something I MUST do?If you take a look at my coolant pump replacement video starting at minute 38:11 you’ll see the appropriate procedure by using vacuum to refill coolant without air with no need to bleed.
Coolant Pump Failure! Replacing the coolant pump and thermostat in a 2015 Porsche Macan S / Turbo
Since I did my hose replacement proactively, I didn’t have to bleed the air out of the coolant, but for those who had the failure and lost coolant, and not using vacuum, bleeding is important.
Procedure: Let car get to temperature and actuate bleeding valve (by turning wire handle - see photo - you’ll see bubbling in the reservoir tank, that means bleeding is working). You can semi-open the reservoir cap without removing completely. Make sure your car is not overheating during the process. If overheating occurs, turn car off until cool and repeat process. If the coolant level goes down, turn car off wait until cool and add coolant, repeat process.
Valve photo:
View attachment 290481
I think by now you should be OK, if your temperature is stable and coolant level is also stable. You took the long route… to accomplish the same thing….Is this something I MUST do?
and if needed: must I open the reservoir cap (2 turns?)
I have a 3D print model for the hose clamp if you want it. I printed a couple in Nylon and they're holding up well.Thanks to everyone providing the great solution!
Wanted to reach out - 2015 Macan S with 55K mls. affected.
The fitting on the right side went bad and I got the 'low coolant - stop vehicle immediately'-message yesterday.
Couple of questions:
I appreciate your feedback!
- Does this tube do the job for all 3 hose parts (amazon: KDP 1/4"X5FT(ID:6MM) 1.5 M Silicone Heater Hose Coolant)?
- Do I need all hose clamps (amazon: AKIHISA 420Pcs 20 sizes Single Ear Hose Clamps)? Or: Which hose clamps exactly are needed?
- It was not clear to me with all feedback here: Do I need to buy a new hose for the fitments? In case yes: Is the original one needed or any replacement?
- Any recommendation for a mount clip to attach the new hose to the radiator hose?
I appreciate your offer - but I used heat resistant zip ties which seem to do the job tooI have a 3D print model for the hose clamp if you want it. I printed a couple in Nylon and they're holding up well.
Thanks to everyone providing the great solution!
Wanted to reach out - 2015 Macan S with 55K mls. affected.
The fitting on the right side went bad and I got the 'low coolant - stop vehicle immediately'-message yesterday.
Couple of questions:
I appreciate your feedback!
- Does this tube do the job for all 3 hose parts (amazon: KDP 1/4"X5FT(ID:6MM) 1.5 M Silicone Heater Hose Coolant)?
- Do I need all hose clamps (amazon: AKIHISA 420Pcs 20 sizes Single Ear Hose Clamps)? Or: Which hose clamps exactly are needed?
- It was not clear to me with all feedback here: Do I need to buy a new hose for the fitments? In case yes: Is the original one needed or any replacement?
- Any recommendation for a mount clip to attach the new hose to the radiator hose?