Have a leaking hose that's under the intake. I'm losing coolant from it. Not sure if its the pencil-sized hose but does it really cost $550 for parts and labor? I'm assuming it more labor intensive to justify the cost. Macan turbo
Coolant hose under the intake? (DIY procedure included!)
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tangcoral
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Got it done this weekend. I had to reuse the original fittings, but all of it was actually in really good shape. you have to understand we live in a very temperate climate with a lot of cold weather so the heat action on the hose and fittings is less than a lot of places. They seemed new once I cut the hose off. I have new ones coming and will make up a spare hose with fittings to swap out should it become necessary.
I suspect this Macan we bought has been thoroughly babied as well. When I park I can still smell the exhaust coatings like on a new car. Anyway, it took a bit longer than I expected, but I was in no rush and took my time. I had all the right tools and it worked out fine. The only pitfall was the inability to remove the hose fitting from the valve so I cut the hose off it and clamped the new hose onto the fitting. I also used the PVC 3D printed clamps. I have some nylon ones printing today that I may swap into place. Drove it for about an hour afterwards and sucked the residual coolant out of the old hose with a vacuum brake bleeder and it all seems good. Pics attached.
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I suspect this Macan we bought has been thoroughly babied as well. When I park I can still smell the exhaust coatings like on a new car. Anyway, it took a bit longer than I expected, but I was in no rush and took my time. I had all the right tools and it worked out fine. The only pitfall was the inability to remove the hose fitting from the valve so I cut the hose off it and clamped the new hose onto the fitting. I also used the PVC 3D printed clamps. I have some nylon ones printing today that I may swap into place. Drove it for about an hour afterwards and sucked the residual coolant out of the old hose with a vacuum brake bleeder and it all seems good. Pics attached.
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Well done man!
Impossible to know what to do or how to do it without your initial hard work. YOU are the inspiration.
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Ditto that -- Santirx's video made this extremely doable. Very nice clamps -- I must have missed something -- where can you source these?
Got them on Amazon.
I just use end cutting pliers to crimp them. There are specific tools for that, but these worked for me:'
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I should have been clearer -- the orange clamps in pic 3 that separate the new silicone hose from the main hose?
3D printed them. Design inspiration from Santirx's drawings and a few hours on Onshape came up with the design. Happy to share the STEP or STL file if you want to print them yourself or have them printed.
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Of course, mine are better…☺. I gave my design to RADHAUS and they will be part of a kit that will be offered by them hopefully with aluminum fittings, hose, etc… pre-assembled…. the full kit hopefully. This is why I didn’t make my design publicly available… as I normally do.
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Ty for the offer but beyond my skill set or local resource. Very nice though!
For sure. I'm a hack who uses "extrude" for everything. I would look forward to the aluminum fittings to truly make this a "forever" installation.
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Can’t wit for this, will be the P&P solution !!!
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Smart man. Thought the same thing myself after putting it together/doing the job -- I went with OEM for the pipe fittings, because after seeing the condition (crumbly) of mine after 8 years/95k, I didn't want to risk an unknown quality for my daughter's car. Also fairly certain that I cross-threaded one of these putting it back on (thankfully used lots of Locktite) so if I never have to touch it again all the better.
If one could source quantity of the fitting, and offer it as plug-n-play, it would be a popular aftermarket kit. Researching to see if I need to do the same for wife's CD.
Got a Nylon version printed. This material requires an extrusion temperature of 270C (518F) to bond properly. It has a service temperature of 199C, theoretically. It should be fine clamped to the insulated coolant hose without any deformation regardless of under-hood temperatures.
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I experienced a catastrophic failure on the freeway of the t line and fixed using this mod. Dash showed overheating in large red letters, I pulled off as soon as I could and called triple a. Now that everything’s buttoned up, I think I may have bubbles in the coolant but would like some feedback as to what my issue might be.
Couple things: 1. I’ve done the recoding fix to show actual coolant temp, so the following should be accurate; 2. No oil in coolant or vice versa so hopefully I didn’t do any serious damage to the engine during that overheating stint; 3. I’ve vacuum filled the coolant twice with an airlift, with the key in the on position and heater maxed on high.
Pre-failure: the coolant temp would climb to about 221-225f, then (presumably) fans would kick on and it would drop down to 205ish and cycle back and forth
Now: no longer overheating, I’ve taken the car on a few local and 30 min freeway trips but it doesn’t seem to be behaving the same as it was before. Temp drop and gain seems more erratic. I was idling parked for 10-15 min to test stuff out and it was steady at 225f, sometimes when I’m at a light it’ll drop.
What’s really strange is that it seems like the coolant circulation is weak if that’s even a thing. I’ll periodically stomp on the throttle to try to work the bubbles out, but I’ve also noticed that the temp reading will immediately drop after I go hard on the throttle. Even when I was idling, after blipping the throttle it dropped from 225f down to about 221f before climbing again after 30 seconds or so. When I do a quick pull on the street, it might go from 220s down to 200.
1. initially I thought I had bubbles in the system, with a hotspot forming near the temp sensor. However, the sensor seems to be very low in the system, so I don’t think this is happening. I’ve also run the airlift twice (holding 25lbs of vacuum after 10 min).
2. could this be a thermostat / water pump issue?
3. is this even an issue? Honestly, I’m just relieved I didn’t blow up my engine. At the end of the day, the car isn’t overheating anymore even after 30 min on the freeway. It’s just weird to be cruising on the freeway, seeing 225-227f hold steady with no change unless I floor it for a bit, then seeing it go back down to low 200s.
Couple things: 1. I’ve done the recoding fix to show actual coolant temp, so the following should be accurate; 2. No oil in coolant or vice versa so hopefully I didn’t do any serious damage to the engine during that overheating stint; 3. I’ve vacuum filled the coolant twice with an airlift, with the key in the on position and heater maxed on high.
Pre-failure: the coolant temp would climb to about 221-225f, then (presumably) fans would kick on and it would drop down to 205ish and cycle back and forth
Now: no longer overheating, I’ve taken the car on a few local and 30 min freeway trips but it doesn’t seem to be behaving the same as it was before. Temp drop and gain seems more erratic. I was idling parked for 10-15 min to test stuff out and it was steady at 225f, sometimes when I’m at a light it’ll drop.
What’s really strange is that it seems like the coolant circulation is weak if that’s even a thing. I’ll periodically stomp on the throttle to try to work the bubbles out, but I’ve also noticed that the temp reading will immediately drop after I go hard on the throttle. Even when I was idling, after blipping the throttle it dropped from 225f down to about 221f before climbing again after 30 seconds or so. When I do a quick pull on the street, it might go from 220s down to 200.
1. initially I thought I had bubbles in the system, with a hotspot forming near the temp sensor. However, the sensor seems to be very low in the system, so I don’t think this is happening. I’ve also run the airlift twice (holding 25lbs of vacuum after 10 min).
2. could this be a thermostat / water pump issue?
3. is this even an issue? Honestly, I’m just relieved I didn’t blow up my engine. At the end of the day, the car isn’t overheating anymore even after 30 min on the freeway. It’s just weird to be cruising on the freeway, seeing 225-227f hold steady with no change unless I floor it for a bit, then seeing it go back down to low 200s.
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This is odd. I do remember having a similar issue when I first changed the thermostat in my Macan and refilled with coolant using vacuum. The temperature in my initial test drives was swinging a lot (similar to what you describe), but the issue went away on its own after a few drives…
Not sure what to recommend. Maybe you should keep driving it as long as it is within range and keep close observation. Hopefully it will sort itself out.
As far as root cause, my thought was also bubbles in the system that were released on its own.
Have you actuated vent valve while car is on and at temperature? Maybe that will help.
I replaced my hose a couple of weekends ago. I also had some bubbling sounds immediately after the hose replacement during the first few minutes of the test drive. I didn't have an overheat warning as it was a pre-emptive replacement. I did actuate the vent valve when I got back from the test drive with the temperature up on the dash display, but the hoses still felt cold so the thermostat probably wasn't really open yet. I would suggest getting it all up to temperature and then open the vent valve on the side of the driver's airbox and see if it helps. Just lift the bar in the picture:
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Thanks for the replies - I’ve gotten the car up to temp (15-20 min drive with both water and oil 200+) and noticed that the vent value is already loose. Unsure if this is how it’s supposed to work, but the value was already “pushed out”, with the metal handle loose.
thinking about it now, if there was 0 air in the system, maybe there wouldn’t be any expansion from the liquid at all and the value would remain closed despite being up to temp?
thinking about it now, if there was 0 air in the system, maybe there wouldn’t be any expansion from the liquid at all and the value would remain closed despite being up to temp?
I completed a proactive hose replacement on Monday and have since driven 4 times. Two of those drives were about an hour each with one in traffic. Nothing out of the ordinary to report except maybe the smell of some coolant that may have spilled on the block.
My notes from performing the work: Have a good, long set of picks with suitable handles to extract the old fittings as they don't come out easily. I found that moving the fittings left and right first to break them free made them easier to remove. It's kinda scary removing the fitting screws as you can't get even a finger on them. My magnetic pickup is on the weak side (new one on the way now, of course) and I ended up using a long reach needle nose plier to extract the screws after loosening them. DON'T use a powered socket wrench to reinstall the screws for the fittings. In particular, the driver's side screw is easy to get started at an angle and cross thread if not careful.
Thanks again to all who researched this alternative to removing the intake manifold and reinstalling another OEM hose with a limited lifespan. At 7 years old and 65K miles my hose didn't crumble in my hands but it did "snap" with a crack when I cut it and also when I tried to bend it at the fitting.
My notes from performing the work: Have a good, long set of picks with suitable handles to extract the old fittings as they don't come out easily. I found that moving the fittings left and right first to break them free made them easier to remove. It's kinda scary removing the fitting screws as you can't get even a finger on them. My magnetic pickup is on the weak side (new one on the way now, of course) and I ended up using a long reach needle nose plier to extract the screws after loosening them. DON'T use a powered socket wrench to reinstall the screws for the fittings. In particular, the driver's side screw is easy to get started at an angle and cross thread if not careful.
Thanks again to all who researched this alternative to removing the intake manifold and reinstalling another OEM hose with a limited lifespan. At 7 years old and 65K miles my hose didn't crumble in my hands but it did "snap" with a crack when I cut it and also when I tried to bend it at the fitting.
Great points and luckily my magnetic reacher has a strong magnet. I've only driven a few times so far but still get a bit of coolant smell when I park, but it's dissipating slowly. I did "vacuum" out the old hose by the reserviour after cutting it and a couple of ounces of coolant came out so that may be the source of some of the smell as it heats up.
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I was on my way to autozone to pick up some diff oil, the car catastrophically failed exactly as expected at @ 80,600 miles. I literally had all the parts for this repair and decided not to prioritize it because of my faulty logic: "oh it's cold in New York now, this issue won't happen".
When the leak started, i knew exactly what happened and I couldn't believe it was actually happening to me! I saw a white puff of smoke, a loud sizzle, and then a major leak trail out of my rearview window. I was lucky and was able to park right on the side of the road before the car overheated and had it towed to indy right away.
My mechanic just did this DIY vent hose solution for me.
However, there was a slight miscommunication and he took my hose and instead of routing to the front of engine to the reservoir, he routed it directly back through the engine to the same hose spot in the back.
I guess it was my fault for not fully communicating -- I gave him the hose with the left and right portions already clamped and surgery'd from a new hose. I said "just cut those hose" and finish it. He took the end of the Y-pipe and replicated the exact same design as OEM except with silicone hose. He did take off the intake manifolds.
So i guess I'll be the durability guinea pig for a Y-pipe conversion that runs through the engine -- In theory, the silicone hose should be a lot more durable than the rubber
All in all $2100 all in for y-pipe silicone job, new thermostat and new water pump. Figured might as well get those replaced since cars already in the shop.
Lesson? Don't be me. If you have a weekend for the DIY, just do it. I got lucky and was close by. Just because winter is right around the corner does not mean the hoses won't crack -- if anything, it might have been caused by the heat / cold cycle that this winter is bringing!
When the leak started, i knew exactly what happened and I couldn't believe it was actually happening to me! I saw a white puff of smoke, a loud sizzle, and then a major leak trail out of my rearview window. I was lucky and was able to park right on the side of the road before the car overheated and had it towed to indy right away.
My mechanic just did this DIY vent hose solution for me.
However, there was a slight miscommunication and he took my hose and instead of routing to the front of engine to the reservoir, he routed it directly back through the engine to the same hose spot in the back.
I guess it was my fault for not fully communicating -- I gave him the hose with the left and right portions already clamped and surgery'd from a new hose. I said "just cut those hose" and finish it. He took the end of the Y-pipe and replicated the exact same design as OEM except with silicone hose. He did take off the intake manifolds.
So i guess I'll be the durability guinea pig for a Y-pipe conversion that runs through the engine -- In theory, the silicone hose should be a lot more durable than the rubber
All in all $2100 all in for y-pipe silicone job, new thermostat and new water pump. Figured might as well get those replaced since cars already in the shop.
Lesson? Don't be me. If you have a weekend for the DIY, just do it. I got lucky and was close by. Just because winter is right around the corner does not mean the hoses won't crack -- if anything, it might have been caused by the heat / cold cycle that this winter is bringing!
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