[TCP2]

Forgive my ignorance. Been reading about this hose for a while and have no problems replacing it with some silicone heater hose, t-fitting and some clamps. Is it 1/4" ID hose? Unreal work being done here. Very impressive. I don't mind spending for the OEM hose for the fittings, as mine is 7 years old now and I want to get it replaced. @Santirx. would you be willing to share the CAD file (STEP) for the hose separator? I have a couple of 3D printers I use for proto work and can print these out here. Found the parts list with the video.

 

[TCP2]

Also, just for clarity, the new hose is simply a tee from the front two fittings on the heads to the purge valve on the side of the air filter??? that's it?? Leaving the rest in place to crack and wither on its own? No connection to the hose at the bottom of the coolant reservoir? It can't be that easy😟

 

[TCP2]

For anyone in Canada looking to do this repair (using the knockoff hose from China for the fittings). Parts can be had for about $100 including 2 x 5ft lengths of hose. I will try to reuse the original fittings if these seem of lesser quality.

 

[Santirx]

For anyone in Canada looking to do this repair (using the knockoff hose from China for the fittings). Parts can be had for about $100 including 2 x 5ft lengths of hose. I will try to reuse the original fittings if these seem of lesser quality.

View attachment 288901

I got the OEM vent tubing, but also got this Amazon vent tubing. I did install OEM. The Amazon knock off seems to be a bit more flimsy, including the connectors. Not sure if that will help with extending life… but in the end, I got it to get fitting dimensions as we will be manufacturing these fittings out of aluminum based on my design. I will be testing these soon.

 

[TCP2]

Do you have a timeframe for the aluminum version? I'd like to redo mine sooner rather than later, but could wait for the aluminum version if it's pretty quick.

 

[MacroZed]

I'm curious about the timeline for availability as well.
Super appreciative for your efforts, @Santirx . Though I think going with AN fittings might be a bit of an overkill for this.
Your silicone hose solution is more than robust for this application. If the ends could be aluminum like you propose, that would make the hose solution **** near failure proof.

 

[TCP2]

Thinking about where and what this hose does, while it seems way overengineered (shocking, I know), there may have been some reason to bring it around the back to improve bleeding the cooling system after a refill. Otherwise a very expensive solution to a problem that doesn't exist. And definitely a huge thanks for modeling the parts. Not worth replacing it like the original though,.

 

[TCP2]

Getting ready to do this mod on the weekend. Hoping to just cut the hose off the fittings and not remove them from the heads, then push the hose down and use a spring clamp to hold things in place on the two fittings. The rest will get Oetiker clamps. Drew up a clamp to fit on the big hose to hold the little one in place. The first 3D print turned out quite well. Happy to share the STEP or sliced file if someone wants to print their own.

 

[dethbrd]

Not adviseable... the fittings will be just as rotten as the tube

 

[TCP2]

I suppose the material will be aged like the hose, but I haven't heard of any failures of the fittings, just cracked hose. I do have new fittings coming, but not before mid November and it can be too cold to change the hose by that time. I'll probably get it done on the weekend and check the condition of the fittings. If they look in bad shape, I'll change them out in the spring. Winter is coming and the garage isn't heated.

 

[Santirx]

Getting ready to do this mod on the weekend. Hoping to just cut the hose off the fittings and not remove them from the heads, then push the hose down and use a spring clamp to hold things in place on the two fittings. The rest will get Oetiker clamps. Drew up a clamp to fit on the big hose to hold the little one in place. The first 3D print turned out quite well. Happy to share the STEP or sliced file if someone wants to print their own.

View attachment 289061 View attachment 289062 View attachment 289063 View attachment 289077

Hmmm… Looks eerily similar to my design… 😉

What material did you use for printing these?

 

[TCP2]

Hmmm… Looks eerily similar to my design… 😉

What material did you use for printing these?

Yup. Your picture was the inspiration. Took me a few hours on Onshape to get it right, but my skills are weak. It's PLA but would have preferred ABS. Will try them out and if they fail, just make some more in a different material. Surprising that it printed without any support in the voids but turned out really well.

 

[Santirx]

Yup. Your picture was the inspiration. Took me a few hours on Onshape to get it right, but my skills are weak. It's PLA but would have preferred ABS. Will try them out and if they fail, just make some more in a different material. Surprising that it printed without any support in the voids but turned out really well.

PLA won’t work… will warp. You need PC or other high temp resistant material… lets see.

 

[TCP2]

PLA won’t work… will warp. You need PC or other high temp resistant material… lets see.

You're probably right. I will get some going in ABS tomorrow. Nylon is also available, but ABS should hold up.

EDIT:
Looks like i can have them printed in PC for just over $3 a piece.

 

[TCP2]

The same clamp in ABS:

 

[Wooziewu]

Following this thread closely and waiting to operate with the latest techniques

 

[TCP2]

Will tackle it this weekend and grab a few pictures. I am actually thinking of trying the silicone hose direct into the purge valve on the side of the airbox without the 90degree fitting, if it works. Throw an o-ring into the locking slot on the nipple, pull the hose over the o-ring and clamp it behind. Gets rid of the 90degree angle coming out of the valve. We'll see if it's feasible or a failure point. I've got all the parts now except the spare hose with the fittings so will re-use the originals if it doesn't arrive today.

 

[Santirx]

Will tackle it this weekend and grab a few pictures. I am actually thinking of trying the silicone hose direct into the purge valve on the side of the airbox without the 90degree fitting, if it works. Throw an o-ring into the locking slot on the nipple, pull the hose over the o-ring and clamp it behind. Gets rid of the 90degree angle coming out of the valve. We'll see if it's feasible or a failure point. I've got all the parts now except the spare hose with the fittings so will re-use the originals if it doesn't arrive today.

Many folks have use this approach of clamping directly to valve with success. You’ll have no issues going this way….

 

[TCP2]

Many folks have use this approach of clamping directly to valve with success. You’ll have no issues going this way….

Perfect. thank you. Looking at it closer, it's just a ridge of plastic close to the top to slide over.

 

[mopdahl]

Will tackle it this weekend and grab a few pictures. I am actually thinking of trying the silicone hose direct into the purge valve on the side of the airbox without the 90degree fitting, if it works. Throw an o-ring into the locking slot on the nipple, pull the hose over the o-ring and clamp it behind. Gets rid of the 90degree angle coming out of the valve. We'll see if it's feasible or a failure point. I've got all the parts now except the spare hose with the fittings so will re-use the originals if it doesn't arrive today.

I did this exact thing today -- it works but you have to take the purge valve off (and of course mine broke (that nipple was literally welded to the side of the offending "pipe") to get a good seal (I used silicone RTV + a silicone o-ring -- have less concern about leaking than the nipple breaking) + need the room to work with stepless hose clamps (I used silicone hose), might be able to not remove....but it is literally <1 minute (assuming you don't break anything). Long-term that nipple isn't designed to absorb sideways stress, but I can't see the silicon hose moving all that much if properly anchored (and I'm a zip-tie guy) so there is no sideways tension coming up under.

For those thinking of re-using the original fittings, DON'T. I have a '16 Turbo with 95k, and the whole T assembly literally broke into 8 pieces after I unbolted it, and on the left side the bottom/bolted nipple broke & left 3/4 in (biggest PITA of the entire job getting that out). Couple of other tips -- if you don't have a long-reach magnet, or long reach 45 or 90 degree pliers, get those before doing this (another learning lesson). Also the advice of taping the socket to the extension....another learning lesson (I have an extension & a socket & . I didn't bother removing the old all the way -- the metal pipe at the firewall isn't going anywhere, and I just sawed off the hose that connects to the purge valve near that connection + the T pipe broke off at the connection when I pulled with the 45 long reach.

I would definitely put this in the preventive maintenance category. It is going to fail, and leave you stranded. I had a few days warning (leaking) but it blew out within a week of leaking. You CAN drive with it blown out -- just not far (add coolant to top it off, then let it cool down, then 5-7 miles at a time (IMHO....not mechanical advice)).

My local stealership wanted $1800 for this repair... (I just wanted to see how greedy they were). I was already done with them but this was way a bridge too far.

Total time about 5-6 hours, with 3+ of it being researching/watching videos. Total working time was 2.5 hours, but would have been much quicker if I had the right socket/extension to start, didn't drop multiple DIY extensions/sockets down onto the pan, and didn't have to buy a new purge valve + scrape out the broken nipple.

DIY skills are about a 4 on this. Totally doable, but if you are a newbie at this (and I sort of am), read the forum (especially pages 9-11), print out a compilation of advice, watch a couple of videos, take apart the throttle body and test your pipe integrity, and then start the work.

If I had to do this again (and I'm going to see if I need to on the Mrs. '16 CD), I could probably do it in <45 min + another 15 min for assembly of the DIY T hose. Daughter is inheriting the Macan this winter, and I'm VERY glad this isn't something that had happened under her watch.