Have a leaking hose that's under the intake. I'm losing coolant from it. Not sure if its the pencil-sized hose but does it really cost $550 for parts and labor? I'm assuming it more labor intensive to justify the cost. Macan turbo
Coolant hose under the intake? (DIY procedure included!)
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tangcoral
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Nah… this was a very clever design…. Ready to burst exactly when your warranty runs out. That requires a lot of design experience, don’t you think? 🙂
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@Santirx I’m getting ready to do this as my pipe just burst. In my mind I was just going to cut the plastic pipe, take the connectors off and run heater hose…at the end of your video it looks like you removed the rear pipe…I had planned on just leaving it. Looking at your highlighted diagram seems like it should be fine to leave in place. Thoughts?
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You can leave in place, but try to secure it somehow so that is not dangling loose in there. That‘s precisely why I removed it, because I didn’t want this to be dangling…
Gentlemen:
Just to clarify, in both @Santirx 's second parts diagram (#11, or also labelled #12 thru #18) (Post 257) and in @Svetoslav Kostov's photo (Post 259), the part I have circled in red is not connected to the part we are removing, correct? It just happens to be shown in the parts diagram and that photo, and likely runs alongside our "bad" part, correct? We are leaving the part circled in red connected and in the vehicle, correct?
![Image]()
![Image]()
Just to clarify, in both @Santirx 's second parts diagram (#11, or also labelled #12 thru #18) (Post 257) and in @Svetoslav Kostov's photo (Post 259), the part I have circled in red is not connected to the part we are removing, correct? It just happens to be shown in the parts diagram and that photo, and likely runs alongside our "bad" part, correct? We are leaving the part circled in red connected and in the vehicle, correct?
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I just finished this project this morning. I left all the bad stuff in there and ziptied them away. The business end simply goes from the heads to the tee, to that junction on the air filter
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Correct. That's the hose that connects to the bottom of the Coolant Reservoir. DO NOT REMOVE THAT ONE!
Amazing. I was watching some videos on how to remove the whole god **** intake and ran into this, thanks YouTube algorithms! I was thinking of getting this done with a intake valve cleaning but this seems like a much more sensible repair.
I imagine they might have done this design to get the coolant to heat up faster? Not sure.
On my car, on the Carfax, it shows this repair at a Porsche dealer:
8/2021 - 82k miles
Vehicle serviced
Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Cooling system checked
Engine cover removed and reinstalled
I can't imagine this is anything but this part failing right? I believe the in service date of the car is 12/2016 as a 2017 model. This would line up with the 5 year mark. Meaning my current hose is about to be 3 years old soon assuming it was done in 8/2021.
I imagine they might have done this design to get the coolant to heat up faster? Not sure.
On my car, on the Carfax, it shows this repair at a Porsche dealer:
8/2021 - 82k miles
Vehicle serviced
Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Cooling system checked
Engine cover removed and reinstalled
I can't imagine this is anything but this part failing right? I believe the in service date of the car is 12/2016 as a 2017 model. This would line up with the 5 year mark. Meaning my current hose is about to be 3 years old soon assuming it was done in 8/2021.
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I don’t think so. This is a vent, so, normally you won’t have heat exchanged in a vent unless it is for heat recovery from vent to something else…. but this is not designed as an heat recovery system and in addition plastic is a poor heat conductor, so, if heat exchange is of primary concern here, they would’ve specified a metal tubing.
I’m trying to rationalize the design intent, but have no idea why they chose this way…
Good luck with your repair.
Thanks, any thoughts on if I use 2 orders of this hose, it seems to have slightly better specs and I can get it delivered quickly
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Very informative post on this infamous Y Pipe. I believe mine is cracked too and spilled the coolant all over the place. If only an indy shop in NY would do this install I'd rather pay for this version of the pipe that holds up to the heat then the oem way.
I'm not a DIY guy by any means and now having regrets as many of the surrounding parts seem to be pretty dried out old hard plastic (2016 Macan ~95K miles).
Was all set and completing the last steps, attaching the new silicone hose to the bottom connection of the bleeder valve when the top hose on the bleeder valve above it broke off that was connected towards the front of the car. FML!!!
I'm frantically searching online to see what that is now and how to replace it. Any help would be tremendously appreciated.
NOTICE: Subsequent posts related to the radiator vent tube have been moved to their own thread. Santirx has agreed that it deserves
to be in its own thread, since the procedure is not really a part of this thread's discussion - rather a potential complication which may be
experienced by some subset of DIYers.
See the following for the vent tube discussion:
Good luck!
Was all set and completing the last steps, attaching the new silicone hose to the bottom connection of the bleeder valve when the top hose on the bleeder valve above it broke off that was connected towards the front of the car. FML!!!
I'm frantically searching online to see what that is now and how to replace it. Any help would be tremendously appreciated.
NOTICE: Subsequent posts related to the radiator vent tube have been moved to their own thread. Santirx has agreed that it deserves
to be in its own thread, since the procedure is not really a part of this thread's discussion - rather a potential complication which may be
experienced by some subset of DIYers.
See the following for the vent tube discussion:
Good luck!
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233 Posts
I mentioned and again think a “Kit” would sell well…
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The key about putting together a kit is the connection fittings to the engine. If someone can figure out how to machine these fittings out of aluminum or find these fittings as individual parts, then a kit could be put together at an affordable price. Otherwise it would be too expensive as one would have to buy the whole “Y” tubing just so that you can take out the fittings and complete the kit.
I tried to make out a part number in those fittings and all it had is plastic material code.
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78 Posts
Thanks for making this post Santirx! I bought the same 1/4” hose line, stainless tee, oem line to rob the fittings from.
I was curious if you have a link to the 3d print file for your clamp? Did you just use one or two of the clamps? How is it holding up to the engine bay temps?
I was curious if you have a link to the 3d print file for your clamp? Did you just use one or two of the clamps? How is it holding up to the engine bay temps?
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Now working with a design prototype of the coolant vent line connector. The idea here is that once the design is completed and tested, it can be manufactured out of aluminum. This will complete the solution with a connector that will last the life of the Macan. I’m not sure how I’ll make this available once done, but I have been in conversations with @tallkyle (potentially through Radhaus) so that they can offer it as part of a full kit (clamps that I designed previously included).
![Image]()
On the left, is a 3D printed prototype, and on the right is the original. The 3D print is produced to confirm dimensions. Next step is getting a prototype manufactured in aluminum.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
On the left, is a 3D printed prototype, and on the right is the original. The 3D print is produced to confirm dimensions. Next step is getting a prototype manufactured in aluminum.
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