Have a leaking hose that's under the intake. I'm losing coolant from it. Not sure if its the pencil-sized hose but does it really cost $550 for parts and labor? I'm assuming it more labor intensive to justify the cost. Macan turbo
Coolant hose under the intake? (DIY procedure included!)
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tangcoral
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Are those thermoplastic shrink clamps you used? Do you have the link from where you got them?
That’s the first thing I noticed. They’re Gates PowerGrip clamps. I saw them offered on Amazon, as well as from other suppliers.
Yes, this updated hose remedy will change the landscape on dealing with this annoying bit of “engineering” that Porsche stuck us with for this part.
Mine failed suddenly at 121,000 miles, and lucky for me, my indie mechanic did the job (in the traditional fashion) for just under $500, which I was happy to pay.
I’d say just get yours done. When it fails, it is sudden, makes a mess and you get the bright red warning telling you to stop driving immediately.
I was lucky on mine that it failed about a half-mile from home, so I limped it back.
Looks like we may have the makings of another great DIY video, eh? Also curious as to whether you documented the thermostat and water pump change as well?
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Yes, I did a video on the water pump and thermostat replacement. Still need to edit. The funny part on that is, about 3 years ago I had to do the same thing and documented a detailed process here in MF…. Changed thermostat, that failed, but didn’t replace the pump. The pump failed now (it was making noise) so this time I changed everything… and used my prior post in MF as a guideline… but will be releasing video soon.
DIY: Thermostat Replacement (Coolant Pump replacement)...
This thread is about the replacement of the coolant thermostat of my 2015 Macan S. You can use the same procedure to change the coolant pump. BACKGROUND: Let me start by saying that I'm not a mechanic, I don't consider myself one, although I'm a mechanical engineer (but that doesn't give me...
www.macanforum.com
Sorry, im not much of a videographer or photographer, just a mechanic. If i wasnt clear originally, i also cut that quick release fitting at the vent valve from its plastic tube, and reused it on my new 1/4" coolant hose. I just rotated it 180 degrees and pointed it at the front of the car. And yes those are themoplastic hose clamps. I didnt want big clunky sharp worm drive clamps on there. Just trying to do as clean of a job as possible.
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No issues man. It was a great job. We wanted to understand it a bit better. But all the credit to you!
They do have that “factory” look. Do they get hard once shrunken, or maintain some level of flexibility?
Myself, I’m a big fan of the Oetiker clamps, which I’m certain, as a mechanic, you are familiar with. They’re stainless steel, very low profile, and hold very tight without the bulk of the screw clamps.
Thanks for sharing your remedy!
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I was able to follow this tubing from the front of the engine all the way to the coolant bleed valve, using a new tubing (which I have) as a mock on top of the engine to determine where the tubing would end up on the rear of the engine. Used my borescope.
![Image]()
Once I located the tubing end point on the rear of the engine, I saw it connects to a small rubber hose. It makes a right turn and connects to a metal tubing… then that metal tubing connects to another hose, makes another right turn and goes to the bleed valve. Amazing and just mind blowing!
![Image]()
Re-routing this through the front of the engine is the best approach.
Once I located the tubing end point on the rear of the engine, I saw it connects to a small rubber hose. It makes a right turn and connects to a metal tubing… then that metal tubing connects to another hose, makes another right turn and goes to the bleed valve. Amazing and just mind blowing!
Re-routing this through the front of the engine is the best approach.
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@dethbrd and @FRUNKenstein, when you removed the tubing, since this is a vent tubing, assuming it is not filled or is not significantly filled with coolant when car is cold.
So, as long as the car is cold, I won’t have to drain the coolant from the engine… to remove this tubing. Correct?
So, as long as the car is cold, I won’t have to drain the coolant from the engine… to remove this tubing. Correct?
My tube had broken in multiple spots, so there was a lot of coolant that leaked. If you are replacing it before it breaks/begins to leak and doing that on a cold engine, I would expect there to be some minor coolant spillage if you don't drain the coolant, but not much. Full disclosure, it was my mechanic that actually did the work on mine. We discussed it, I showed him @dethbrd 's posts and got the parts. But he did the actual wrenching. He didn't drain the coolant.
Where the "Y" ends connect into the block, is lower than where the single run of hose connects at the vent valve, but given the diameter and function of the pipe, I would think coolant loss would be minimal. There's a video HERE where the repair is done in the traditional manner (intake removed), and coolant is not drained.
Mine was leaking and my bottle was almost empty. I did not lose more than maybe a few ozs of coolant. Yours might if its full, not sure.
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Yeah, that’s what I figured. The tank is at a higher level than the tubing. So, probably better to drain the coolant, replace the tubing and then refill. That way, I can pull vacuum to ensure there are no leaks. Draining and refill only take a couple of minutes…
@FRUNKenstein curious who did your work in the KC area?
I would 100% buy one (if I don't make it first)
Looks like the hose from the expansion tank to the vent valve connects above the max fill line, so probably not much leakage even if the expansion tank is full. I'm sure there's some in the line of course. When I did my spark plugs, I disconnected the hose from tank to valve (at the valve) in order to move the tank out of the way, which you could probably do here if your still worried the contents of the tank might leak out.
Also cheaper hose from a reputable vendor if you're just cannibalizing the connectors: Porsche Coolant Vent Line for Left/Right Cylinder Heads Bapmic BF0437200010 6942409820718 946 106 026 60 94610602660 946.106.026.60 946-106-026-60 | Pelican Parts
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