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tools for pushing brembo piston back

please find the photo of the tool which is made for 4 piston

I will do a modification by adding 2 metal plates of 3mm thick
and 165 mm long where the corner would be cut to finish at 40mm

The original plates are 115mm X 60 mm
 

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the rotors of the macan S and diesel are 30 mm thickness , to be replaced when they are only 28 mm thickness
brakes pads ref is textar 2570101
tool required is a male torx 12 "pins" size M14
you have it on the photos I have posted
 
Rotors are not wearing as fast as the pads. 2mm wear on the rotor is a lot. That will make a nice lip on the rotor.
 
Wow, you are doing it yourself?

If I didn't get it wrong, you are a female? That's another Wow. Most males cannot/don't do this themselves.
 
here are the photos how it looks like
I'm finding very little online to serve as an aid in replacng the brake pads in my 2015 Macan Turbo. The front Brembo 6 piston calipers on the Macan aren't similar to the calipers of other Porsche's used in video examples. Jeanmarie97 is the only posting that shows the Macan front caliper. I assume that the caliper must first be removed as the pads are removed from the bottom. Clips at the top of the caliper are replaced after the pads are taken out? Can someone better explain the calibration that is required for the single piston rear brake caliper after the new pads are installed? Does this calibration require a Windows system computer for the operation?
 
....I assume that the caliper must first be removed as the pads are removed from the bottom....
With regard to removing the front calipers, I've read that the bolts are torque-to-yield, and must be replaced each time.

...Can someone better explain the calibration that is required for the single piston rear brake caliper after the new pads are installed? Does this calibration require a Windows system computer for the operation?
Porsche recommends using a computer with PIWIS to retract the 12-volt step-motor on the rear parking brake before changing rear pads. But there is a manual work-around, which I'll link to below (see post number 84 in that thread). At the end of the job, just pump the brakes, and turn the parking brake on and off a couple of times. They are self calibrating.
Hope that helps some.
Image


http://www.macanforum.com/forum/wheels-tires-suspension/73474-cost-brakes-rotor-service-9.html
 
Thanks SoCalS5. This procedure is somewhat similar to my previous Land Rover Evoque for rertracting the piston in the rear caliper. On my Land Rover the parking brake was automatically applied when turning off the ignition so releasing the parking brake could be done with the dealers computer, manually similar to the reference you mentioned or else through a series of service commands hidden in the cars computer and accesible if you knew the prompts. What I don't understand is that it appears our Macan's don't apply the parking brake automatically when the ignition is off, but the parking brake can be applied manually and released by the electric switch on the console when parking if desired. If its not automatically applied why then do we have to release it to remove the pads?
 
Thanks SoCalS5. This procedure is somewhat similar to my previous Land Rover Evoque for rertracting the piston in the rear caliper. On my Land Rover the parking brake was automatically applied when turning off the ignition so releasing the parking brake could be done with the dealers computer, manually similar to the reference you mentioned or else through a series of service commands hidden in the cars computer and accesible if you knew the prompts. What I don't understand is that it appears our Macan's don't apply the parking brake automatically when the ignition is off, but the parking brake can be applied manually and released by the electric switch on the console when parking if desired. If its not automatically applied why then do we have to release it to remove the pads?
Maybe you are confusing the words releasing and retracting. Releasing is a non issue on the Macan as it does not behave like your Landrover so the rear pads will never be pinching the disk unless you set them on manually. Retracting is required to allow room for the new pads which are presumably much thicker than the old ones.
 
50k in 25 months on my Macan, so I decided to change out the front brake pads. Relatively simple procedure. Its closest to a Youtube video I found forchanging the pads on a 991 GT3.

The Macan S brakes do not have a pin that holds the pads in place. You have to remove the caliper from the rotor to replace the pads. The one difference from the video is that you need a 14M triple square bit to remove the rotor. ( I got a set from Amazon for $20) I used the old brake pads and a C clamp to retract the pistons. Whole procedure took me 2 hours, most of the time spent figuring out how to remove and replace the brake sensor wire- Its held in by a clip and feels flimsy until you put the caliper back on the rotor. The second side only took 15 minutes.
 

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Reference the following 958 Cayenne brake pad and rotor change procedure for the front brakes. Same caliper type. When I did my Cayenne brake pad change, I did not use the special VW caliper pins, but I did have a plastic container about 1/2 the height of the rotor so I could lay the caliper on it and remove the pads without stressing the brake lines. The calipers are quite heavy. The pistons are easy to back out with one of the pad spreaders mentioned in the thread. You will have to buy the new caliper bolts, they are one-time use. I also recommend new sensors, they are cheap, and the wires get damaged easily during removal. The torque setting for the front S/GTS/Turbo Caliper bolts was 104 ft/lbs but I have not seen values posted for the Macan calipers, front or rear. Used Zimmerman Z rotors and OE Pagid pads and they worked great. Stock pads were Textar but Pagid does supply Porsche pads too. Hope this helps.

https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/622488-brake-pad-procedure-for-2011-cayenne.html
 
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Just watched that video. I am surprised how easy it is, though I could never do it unfortunately. But the thing I don't understand, he said he left out the part where he compresses the piston. He used a C clamp on the top of the brake pad and the caliper. Once you squeeze it, can you then take the clamp off and the piston stays compressed?
Yes. There's no spring force pushing the piston back on the brake pad. It's hydraulic.

You could also use a screwdriver or prybar to compress the piston, but that may mark the caliper/disk.

I've changed brake pad and shoes on all my cars, going back to my 1967 Dodge Coronet 440. On that car, I even had to rebuild the master cylinder. For liability reasons, nobody will sell master cylinder rebuild kits any more. For the most part, pads are much easier to change than drum shoes, but there are some specific tricks needed to avoid squealing on some cars.
 
ultimate brake replacement thread

OK - here goes. This may be my first post, and if it is not, then it is the first one that matters. First things first

2016 Macan S with 47,700 miles

So why am I doing this? There is not a good write up of this anywhere - closest is the GT3 write up video. I have done this in other forum for other cars and here is why - my memory sucks. In two years when I need to do it again I have a resource to go back to so I don't have to start all over again.

Also this is going to be a mix of incoherent thoughts and facts about the front and back brakes

Lets get the facts out of the way

There is no Macan repair manual I can find yet
There are no good videos on line of the Macan (and no - I don't do videos but I should)
The Gen 2 Cayenne is the closest thing to the macan - and there is a manual for this on line - which I purchased for $15 on ebay

So l detailed the Macan yesterday and when the tires were off I looked at the pads up front and rear and was shocked! There is almost no pad but the rotors were still smooth. All original equipment

Fact 1 - Front Rotor min thickness in 32mm (I know this becasue it is written on the disc)

I measured mine and I am good - 32.8mm and smooth

Rear pads also shot

Fact 2 - to measure rear rotor thickness you need a thing that goes on the hub and a computer attached micrometer - there is no room to get a standard micrometer on becasue of the rear backing plate.

So I get on line and do more research and here is what I learn

Replacing front pads and rotors is a standard process

Replacing rear pads is straight forward and simple - no special tools needs

Fact 3 - Replacing rear rotors is the problem - The shoes for the parking brake inside the rear rotors need to be set and bedded in - and the only way to do this is with PIWIS - durmetric 6 does not work for this

So I called the dealer for a price estimate - and here was the ball park $1600-$1800 for the front pads and rotors, $1200-$1400 for the rear pads and rotors

They charge 2.5 hours of labor per axle

After I picked my jaw up off the floor I started looking for parts

So today is going to be front's only and I will do the rears later

As for parts - Autozone, Advance, Oriellys - good luck

For OEM stuff -

The Porsche dealer was $300 for the front pads and $65 each per sensor

Pelican was $217 for the pads and $38 for Porsche sensors

Called the dealer and asked for a discount and they gave me %10 - so as it stands currently my delviery boy (other wise known as my son) is on his way to get the parts.

If all goes well then there will be pics and a process up later

Total cost so far $15 for Cayenne repair manual
 
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