Amy good suggestions for pads that are low dust but perform as well or better than stock pads? Hawk, Pagid, etc...?

 

That's a loaded question. You'll probably get twenty different answers. I stuck with OEM the first time around to be sure of fit.

 

A good rule of thumb for visually checking brake pads is that the pad material should not be less than the thickness of the steel backing plate. Any thinner than that, the heat will transfer to the backing plate and can, under severe conditions, cause the brake fluid to boil.

 

Brake Pad Advice

I have a 2015 Macan S with 51,000 Miles and recently received the brake sensor warning.

I am looking to replace the pads, and was wondering if I should go OEM, EBC Yellow Stuff, or Cheaper like the centric Posi Quiet ( which a lot of 911 guys like)

I don't mind spending the money on a better part, but hate wasting it if I can avoid it..

Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket pads here?

 

I have a 2015 Macan S with 51,000 Miles and recently received the brake sensor warning.

I am looking to replace the pads, and was wondering if I should go OEM, EBC Yellow Stuff, or Cheaper like the centric Posi Quiet ( which a lot of 911 guys like)

I don't mind spending the money on a better part, but hate wasting it if I can avoid it..

Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket pads here?

You would need to do pad, sensor, and new caliper bolt.

OEM are safety tested by porsche and are relatively cheap if you buy from suncoast or pelican parts. I guess all 3 would work fine, so its up to you on how important savings is.

 

I understand that OEM is usually the easiest way out, but if I can get more bang for my buck as I can often do, I'd like to.


Relatively cheap at $300 for a set of pads? I don't even pay that much for my 911 pads.

The Macan Turbo has far more options for quality aftermarket unfortunately..

 

Point well taken. It sounds like you've made up your mind about OEM.
Theyre $198 at suncoast
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/95B698151G.html
Roughly about $85 more than EBC yellow. Dont know how much posi cost.
The only thing I don't like about OEM is they are noisy , but I have like 4 years of warranty left so I'm not gonna mess around with aftermarket at this point.
Although the Macan is cheaper than the 911, it still has big as$ brakes, so unfortunately they're not cheap.

 

Any hawk or pagid options?

 

Not that I could find..


I think the EBC Yellow might be overkill for a DD, I used to run reds on my Cayenne and loved them.

 

Flat6 (a vendor here) has pretty much everything except OEM

https://flat6motorsports.com/collections/macan-brakes

 

I am at 42,000 and still on the OEM pads on my 2015 Turbo. With 5mm left I expect to get close to 50,000 miles. Given the impressive life of the OEM pads, I will replace with factory stock again. 50k is outstanding on a high performance 4,200lb SUV.


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Yeah 50K is pretty awesome. OEM for sure then.

 

I broke down the and purchased the OEM pads. As much as I'd like the test other pads, I really do not have to time to right now.

Hopefully by my next replacement, there will be a wider selection of pads.

 

I've got to admit it's something I'd always heard but after talking with multiple people on the subject, I stand corrected.

I've recently come across a new to me website "YourMechanic.com"... They charged me $45 for an oil change done at my home. The service is guaranteed 12 months/12k miles and the mechanic who came was quite knowledgeable. In fact he identified a leak, which explained why I got a low oil warning light after only driving about 2k miles. The car has a bit over 49k miles so I quickly made an appointment with the local Porsche service center to get it repaired under warranty...

 

I'm reaching 50k on mine and have no more than 2mm in the front. I've been quoted $1400 for all wheels (pads, rotors and sensors) with work done at my house. Much better deal than a garage I'm sure...

 

My dealer quoted me $2100 for all 4, so you will save $700.00

 

I order the brake on suncoast cost 920$ rotors and brake, front and back, the brake pads are akebono..less dust and pretty quite..
So I don't see why to go whit anything other than that..for my surprise they use akebono pads..exaclty what I was looking FOR.
When I had my mercedes I was using cryo rotor whit akebono pads..best combination...i will go whit suncoast..
900 buck whit sensor bolt everything..
Highlty recommended

 

My choice for replacing front brake pads was Brembo P65033 and rear P85 and some tools to do the job like a pro. ( thin curved ply to remove connectors without breaking them and a M14 male to remove the bolds from the caliper, torque 140nm to refix)

The pads from Textar too hard appeared to damage the disc, bad experience reported from a friend of mine)
plus anti squeeze from liqui moly to avoid any noise .

 

some of the textar pads are made in China now, therefore, the quality could be a hit & miss. My mechanic has stopped using textar, esp. on bmw brake pads replacement (at least he has advised his clients of such)

 

http://www.macanforum.com/#/topics/154002?page=1

Heres a thread i made, diy front brake pads.

I got a question regarding the rear pads. Would it be possible to unlock the e brake by keeping the car in neutral and turned on? I was thinking of putting the car on all four jack stands if this is a way to trick the car into releasing the brakes. Anyone?

 

...Would it be possible to unlock the e brake by keeping the car in neutral and turned on? ....

Unfortunately, that will not work. The e-brake uses a step motor, and the car's computer keeps track of how many steps it takes to engage and release the parking brake. Thus, releasing the e-brake only backs-off the pads slightly from the rotor. To fit new thicker pads, you need to fully retract the e-brake.

You can take the caliper off and manually retract the e-brake, but it's much easier to leave the caliper in place and retract the e-brake using a 12 volt source, as I described in an earlier post......

With everything on the calipers still fully assembled, disconnect the electric connector from the caliper. Inside the connector on the caliper, you'll see two medal pins sticking up. Using a 12 volt battery source, connect a positive jumper to pin 2, and connect the negative jumper to pin 1. If the caliper piston starts to push out, stop and reverse the electrical leads. You should hear the parking brake retract. Initially, the piston will not move. Continue until the caliper piston starts to spin, then stop! Now push the caliper piston back into the caliper with a brake tool, channel locks, c-clamp, etc. Replace pads as you would normally. After all the pads have been replaced. Pump brake pedal until you have a firm pedal. Then turn on and off the electromechanical parking brake a few times and you should be good to go.

http://www.macanforum.com/forum/wheels-tires-suspension/73474-cost-brakes-rotor-service-4.html

 

Wow great info, like a standard 12v a23 battery would work?

 

I wouldn't think a small battery would provide enough amps for the step motor. I would just use the car battery as a 12v source.

 

Also are there caliper bolts or brackets that need to be replaced along with a rear brake job?

For example for the fronts, it is recommended to replace the caliper bolts.

 

For the front, the calipers must be removed to replace the pads. Hence, the new caliper attachment bolts.

For the rear, the caliper carrier does not have to be removed to change pads, just the caliper itself. Likewise, the rotors can be replaced with the caliper carrier remaining in place. But if you remove the rear calipers themselves to change pads and/or rotors, then yes, you should replace the caliper bolts.

 

if done at the dealer, then dealer will want the new ones to be put in.

 

So i just finished the rears. Theres a lot of misinformation in this thread, as well as a much easier way to get the job done. Ill post the info in my other thread.

 

Brake pad install questions: Clips and Anti-Squeal paste

I'm about to install new OEM pads. I know the basic procedure but have two questions:

1 - Do you need to replace the spring clips in the front calipers, or take them out and clean them?

2 - Do you need to use any sort of anti-squeal paste or spray, or do you just clean and use the pads dry?

So I can avoid problems myself, I'd be interested in any problems people have had, like noises or squeals, after installing pads, and the probable reasons.

Thanks!

 

other than the pads, the only item that needs to be replaced (assuming the rotors are still good) is the wear sensor. Most likely, it will break when you try to pry it out of the old pad. The spring clips don't need to be replaced, and the new pads will have the anti squeal shims on already.



Some people will insist it's necessary to replace the caliper bolts, but I talked to a local dealership parts department, and they don't even stock the bolts. To which I asked-- "Doesn't your service dept change brake pads?" The parts guys said... "well, of course!".... to which I replied... "if you don't stock the caliper bolts, then how do they replace them?" .... "um, um, I guess they probably don't usually replace the bolts...." Make what you will of that, but I didn't bother to change the bolts, they were just fine.



You will need the proper torx socket for the caliper bolts, I forget the exact size as I'm sitting here typing this.

 

Thanks! I am replacing the sensors ($10 ea from Rock Auto vs $60 from the dealer) and also the bolts. You absolutely need to replace the bolts. They are torque to yield. 22 ft lb + 90 degrees, from the service bulletin the parts guy showed me. And they are only about $4 ea.

 

Are you sure that wasn't for the Spark plugs? . Seriously, that is the torque spec for the plugs on my Audi.

 

The clips can be cleaned and reused. You should use a light film of anti-seize paste on all metal to metal contact points if you want to reduce the risk of getting brake squeal.

 

The bolts are not torque to yield (at least mine weren't) the torque value is 104 lb/ft if I remember correctly, there is no spec of torque plus 90 degrees on the Macan that I have seen.

 

OK - can everyone see this?

I've copied parts of a couple of tables from the Macan Service & Repair Manual in order to provide
more correct information. Please review these tables so that you DO NOT over torque your bolts and
end up stripping the threads!

Note the LARGE difference between the LENGTH of the bolts used in the 17" and the 18" systems
and the corresponding difference in the TORQUE values.

 

Yup, that torque spec is correct. 22 ft lb Plus 90 degrees. That would be way too much for plugs, btw.

 

No it wouldn't, go to 4:30 in the video.